Calcio storico fiorentino, part 2

In my recent, previous post about this incredible event I recently got to witness in Florence, I provided background information about the spettacolo (spectacle). This post is just pictures and videos. It was a fascinating event. I am thrilled I got to experience it!

Above, the games between red and green are ready to begin!

First thing they try to do is tackle the opposing team and keep them down while the remaining players try to get the ball to one goal or the other. The goal is not a small space. It is the entirety of each end of the field!

I will be honest with you. The fighting was not impressive. The game is simple and primitive. But, nevertheless, it is something one wants to see when living in Florence!

Calcio Storico Fiorentino

Once a year in June, the city of Florence hosts the playing of a game which is a type of football that was started centuries ago. It is believed that the first of these games took place in the Middle Ages and was first played in the piazza of Santa Croce.

The games coincide with the June 24 celebration of the birthdate of the city’s patron saint, San Giovanni Battista.

The first thing that happens is that the entire piazza is covered with sand to form the base for the upcoming football matches.

I got tickets this year and I’m so happy I did!

I loved the pre-game warm up and the energy of the spectators for both teams. You were green or red, nothing in between.

Of course it is Florence and it is a historic re-enactment basically, but with contemporary blood, sweat and tears. The flag throwers and other marching costumed people, as well as a white ox with a corona around its neck, put on a pregame show.

The onlookers cheered on their teams!

The music, the costumes, the show, the cheering, the energy! We were ready for something magnificent!

We were seated in the green section, for the Baptistry, while the opposing team was seated in the sun in front of the basilica. We certainly had the best seats, thanks to the shade of the late afternoon. The red team represents the Borgo of Santa Maria Novella. We were at the semi finals.

I’ll be back soon with a final post on this event and my reflections on it. Alla prossima!

The Quartiere Coppedè, some pretty fantastic Roman 20th-century domestic architecture

Oh Rome! So gigantic! So marvelous! so many wonders, and not all of them are ancient! The quartiere Coppedè is an amazing part of the Eternal City.

But first, note how the jasmine is trained up the side of the bump out.

In central Rome, just a stone’s throw from the old city centre, a fascinating neighborhood exists: it is filled with an amazing combination of Liberty (or Italian Art Nouveau) and Art Deco works, with Greek, Gothic, Baroque and even Medieval influences.

This is quartiere Coppedè, a complex located between the two streets, Via Salaria and Via Nomentana, consisting in 26 small palaces and 17 villini or detached houses. A tall, elaborately adorned arch joins the two ambassadors’ palaces, or Palazzi degli Ambasciatori. A large wrought iron lamp adorns the entrance to this complex – projected and constructed between 1915 and 1927 by the eclectic architect Gino Coppedè, who gave his name to this quartiere. After the death of the architect, the works were completed by his son-in-law Paolo Emilio Andrè.

This early twentieth-century complex of constructions – a splendidly artificial blend of architectural idioms – adjoins piazza Mincio. Adding to all this ‘pomp and circumstance’ is the Fontana delle Rane (frogs fountain), in the middle of piazza Mincio. It is an imposing work, adorned with 12 frogs (it is also famous because the Beatles jumped into its basin, fully clothed, after a concert at the Piper discothèque nearby).

The two main buildings feature an abundance of amazing adornments, the Palazzina del Ragno (the spider building) harks back to the style of the Assyro-Babylonians, and features a large spider on its facade. The fairies’ building (Villino delle Fate) is noteworthy for its total lack of symmetry, and its arches and Mediaeval friezes combining any number of materials (marble, brick, travertine, terracotta, glass). The air of fantasy which surrounds this location has attracted a number of film makers. The horror film director, Dario Argento, was enormously impressed by the quartiere Coppedè, and he used it as a set for two of his most famous works “Inferno” and L’uccello dalle piume di cristallo (The Bird with the Crystal Plumage).

The area also appears in other films, such as “Il profumo della signora in nero” (Perfume of the Lady in Black) by Francesco Barilli, “Ultimo tango a Zagarlo” (Last Tango in Zagarol) by Nando Cicero, and “Audace colpo dei soliti ignoti” (Fiasco in Milan, also known as Hold-up à la milanaise) by Nanni Loy, starring Vittorio Gassman.

Strolling through this neighborhood there are so many incredible palazzi!

Just enjoy these art nouveau and art deco features. They intermix very often in Italian architecture of the early 20th century.

You don’t need my commentary. Enjoy!

Come back soon!

More to come!