Saturnia, the hot springs in Maremma, in Southern Tuscany

After driving through the Vie Cave (see my earlier post on that https://getbacklauretta.com/2026/06/14/driving-through-italy/) in this part of Italy recently, we stopped about 7:30 pm to “take the waters” at Saturnia. It was a very fun experience!

The thermal waters, or hot springs, at Saturnia are an enchanting and enticing stop while exploring southern Tuscany and the Maremma area in southern Tuscany. You can take advantage of outdoor, and thus free, hot water springs called “Cascate di Mulino“, located less than 6 km outside of the town of Saturnia and a few km from the Terme di Saturnia Resort.

This buzzing little hamlet is situated close to an Etruscan necropolis along the Roman road Clodia, located in between the Aurelia and Cassia roads.

Its origins are extremely ancient: a Greek historian from 60BC tells how this area was inhabited by pre-classical populations from Greece! Later came the Etruscans followed by the Romans, as proven by the beautiful Porta Romana, Roman Gates, dating back to the 2nd century B.C.

My video shows the top most area of the springs, high above where most of the people hang out. We had the little area to ourselves and I can assure you of two things: 1. the water is hot and 2. the current up here is strong! It was hard to stay stable without hanging on to a rope that went across and which I was afraid was going to break at any moment.

The current was so strong it took my nail polish off! The sulphur smell is strong and might put some people off. My video doesn’t show the breadth of this area of water. The bottom was not deeply underwater, but it was of course very rocky and moss clung to its surfaces, adding to the difficulty of maintaining stability. Still, under the trees, warm in the water, on a late May evening, it was a “real Italian experience.” The moon was out as well, so it was altogether quite something!

Calcio storico fiorentino, part 2

In my recent, previous post about this incredible event I recently got to witness in Florence, I provided background information about the spettacolo (spectacle). This post is just pictures and videos. It was a fascinating event. I am thrilled I got to experience it!

Above, the games between red and green are ready to begin!

First thing they try to do is tackle the opposing team and keep them down while the remaining players try to get the ball to one goal or the other. The goal is not a small space. It is the entirety of each end of the field!

I will be honest with you. The fighting was not impressive. The game is simple and primitive. But, nevertheless, it is something one wants to see when living in Florence!

Calcio Storico Fiorentino

Once a year in June, the city of Florence hosts the playing of a game which is a type of football that was started centuries ago. It is believed that the first of these games took place in the Middle Ages and was first played in the piazza of Santa Croce.

The games coincide with the June 24 celebration of the birthdate of the city’s patron saint, San Giovanni Battista.

The first thing that happens is that the entire piazza is covered with sand to form the base for the upcoming football matches.

I got tickets this year and I’m so happy I did!

I loved the pre-game warm up and the energy of the spectators for both teams. You were green or red, nothing in between.

Of course it is Florence and it is a historic re-enactment basically, but with contemporary blood, sweat and tears. The flag throwers and other marching costumed people, as well as a white ox with a corona around its neck, put on a pregame show.

The onlookers cheered on their teams!

The music, the costumes, the show, the cheering, the energy! We were ready for something magnificent!

We were seated in the green section, for the Baptistry, while the opposing team was seated in the sun in front of the basilica. We certainly had the best seats, thanks to the shade of the late afternoon. The red team represents the Borgo of Santa Maria Novella. We were at the semi finals.

I’ll be back soon with a final post on this event and my reflections on it. Alla prossima!