Inside the lower church of the Russian Orthodox Church in Florence

DtqsJ860Sm+ezJdJW8YXmg

Following my recent tour of this gorgeous landmark in Florence, I posted on the exterior. Now let’s enter the building, starting with the lower church.

dG9WHKPCTCyg0JUg%yFy6g

 

s0ljM+x6THKVHbgbDAu7Cw

 

Q1lIOQALQ5Ku7FQD4k4itw

The lower church, dedicated to Saint Nicholas, was consecrated on October 2, 1902 in the presence of the Russian ambassador from Rome, the new rector and many Russian residents.

fullsizeoutput_370c

 

fullsizeoutput_3708

 

fullsizeoutput_370a

 

SlILFXbORCmDeEO+PgxleQ

 

fullsizeoutput_370e

 

fullsizeoutput_370f

 

fullsizeoutput_3711

 

3j5ouReUQN+2uCerPpN4qg

 

MfKF8AKfQCa0FiJlCAY9qg

 

qNcA9ne4ToeEim05s4Zcaw

 

0+yFiJQtRQWPSNZS+d8Xag

 

YB42gwRTQXi3R4PhVMhIgw

 

NxP8do6iTVGe5XUb9vbwug

 

fullsizeoutput_3690

 

%Kg33rv2Ree1Mq4ALfsFLg

 

fullsizeoutput_3713

 

fullsizeoutput_3714

 

V5wbCEY%SjDy2tCI4Yw

 

63ttaDpaSiy2qLDRSZlonA

 

IVy9OhfSTPmU1k4IVqOADQ

 

ts8KJrPaQsy5lXvbh3CQ2w

 

sqxJHkJCRIahOqNAP9HTHw

 

fullsizeoutput_3718

 

XHuNLWbFTauLfo0qSP4tkA

 

fullsizeoutput_371a

 

fullsizeoutput_371c

 

The lower church is decorated with sacred images in exquisite triptychs, Byzantine-style icons and tall figures of saints.

When the Russian diplomatic mission opened in Florence in 1815, it also had a chapel that housed a reliquary, which Tsar Alexander I had carried with him on his long military campaigns against Napoleon.

Before this church was built, Florence’s Russian community would congregate in the private chapels of its more illustrious members, such as that of Michail Boutourline, the son of the millionaire bibliophile Count Dimitri Boutourline, or that of the wealthy, aristocratic Demidoff family.  The Demidoff’s donated many iconostases and other objects from San Donato for the new church in 1880.

 

 

but in the end it was richly adorned with marble, frescoes and numerous other important decorative elements too, including the imposing Royal Gates.

True impetus was given to the church-building project when Archipriest Vladimir Levitsky (1840–1923) arrived in town in 1878. Despite many setbacks regarding, for instance, the designation of the land where the church should be built, Levitsky persevered and, in 1890, travelled to St. Petersburg to present the procurator-general of the synod with drawings prepared by the chosen architect, Preobrazhensky. Whilst a decree authorising the construction of the church was issued in May 1891, it took another seven years before the Russian Ministry of Foreign Affairs finally gave its permission.

The Russian Orthodox Church in Florence

I have the good fortune to live 2 blocks from this gorgeous landmark.  It is almost never open for visits, but I got lucky and snagged a ticket for a rare tour recently.

Chiesa_russa_ortodossa_della_natività_di_Firenze,_laterale

fullsizeoutput_36c7

Known as the Church of the Nativity of Christ and St. Nicholas the Wonderworker (Chiesa della Natività di Nostro Signore Gesù Cristo e San Nicola Taumaturgo), The  Russian Orthodox church is located on via Leone X. Its style is a late 19th and early 20th century imitation of the earlier Naryshkin Baroque.

By the end of the 19th century, there was a small but elite Russian colony in Florence.  Their much desired permanent place of worship came to fruition between 1899 and 1903. It was the first Russian Orthodox church to be built in Italy and was designed by Russian architect Mikhail Preobrazhensky (1854–1930), who had trained at Moscow’s Academy of Arts, and was erected under the supervision of Italian architects Giuseppe Coccini (1840–1900) and Giovanni Paciarelli (1862–1929). The church is a fine combination of Russian and Italian artistry.

 

fullsizeoutput_36c9

The church is topped with one large central onion-shaped dome and four smaller ones, all covered with bright turquoise, green and white scales of majolica (manufactured by the Cantagalli factory of Florence) and topped with gilt crosses and chains. Laid out in the form of a Greek cross, the church grounds are surrounded by an iron railing fence with three monumental gates decorated with the double-headed imperial eagle and Florentine lily forged by the Michelucci foundry of Pistoia.

The church itself, constructed in red brick and grey stone (pietra Serena) from quarries near Fiesole, is decorated with 52 semi-circular or ogival arches known as kokočniki (named after the traditional Russian female headdress) and featuring six winged cherubs, like those of the Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ in St. Petersburg.

Above the doorway, a canopy houses a Venetian-made mosaic icon of “Znamenie,” the mother of God, between stems of flowering lilies. On the north and south sides of the church, two other tabernacles house mosaics of the Peter and Paul.

The splendid wooden entrance door, which came from the private chapel at Villa Demidoff at San Donato, was inspired by Ghiberti’s Gates of Paradise. Depicting 22 scenes from the Old Testament, it had won its creator Rinaldo Barbetti first prize in a national exhibition in Florence in 1861.

 

fullsizeoutput_36cb

 

fullsizeoutput_36cc
True impetus was given to the church-building project when Archipriest Vladimir Levitsky (1840–1923) arrived in Florence in 1878. Despite many setbacks regarding, for instance, the designation of the land where the church should be built, Levitsky persevered and, in 1890, travelled to St. Petersburg to present the procurator-general of the synod with drawings prepared by the chosen architect, Preobrazhensky. A decree authorizing the construction of the church was issued in May 1891, but it took another seven years before the Russian Ministry of Foreign Affairs finally gave its permission.

 

fullsizeoutput_36ce

 

fullsizeoutput_36d0

 

fullsizeoutput_36d2

 

fullsizeoutput_36d4

 

fullsizeoutput_36c5

 

fullsizeoutput_36ce

 

fullsizeoutput_36d0

 

fullsizeoutput_36d2

 

fullsizeoutput_36d4

 

fullsizeoutput_36d6

 

fullsizeoutput_36d8

 

fullsizeoutput_36da

 

fullsizeoutput_36dc

 

ytUDNLkVRPWOD49i4gXKtQ

 

Cyf9LFCKQzukN53JnkKxbw

Typical of Orthodox churches in northern Russia at the time, the Florence church was built on two storeys: the lower church, designed to be warmer in winter, was dedicated to Saint Nicholas, in memory of the Demidoff chapel. The upper church, cooler in summer, was dedicated to the Nativity and features a magnificent marble iconostasis with icons of the patron saints of the imperial family gifted by the assassinated Tsar Nicholas II, a martyr of the Orthodox Church.

 

XGCIaIfUTo+tL4g5c31JzA

 

7Jo4DW%VR6OJcl7HsG+BeQ

 

fullsizeoutput_36de

 

fullsizeoutput_36e0

 

fullsizeoutput_36e2

 

fullsizeoutput_36e4

 

fullsizeoutput_36e6

 

fullsizeoutput_36e8

 

fullsizeoutput_36ea

 

fullsizeoutput_36ec

 

fullsizeoutput_36ee

 

fullsizeoutput_36f4

 

WjT2vaerQ4aB+huoremz0w

 

fullsizeoutput_36fc

 

fullsizeoutput_3700

 

fullsizeoutput_36fe

 

fullsizeoutput_3702

 

fullsizeoutput_3704

 

6XZdPZxYSSSwuVkTgLT05g

 

g%ku88VwSvWarZzbZpY%Cw

 

uxhkDPlDQkuobofdMG0eTQ

 

ojRBbYM3RySa756MJCu7wg

 

DtqsJ860Sm+ezJdJW8YXmg

 

o9CEOS56QJqeZwatF99bXQ

 

w4x3AsxOTeGBLBch1rLbAQ

 

PCf04bPcSX6Ub+8DjXHxUA

 

fullsizeoutput_365a

 

yF7pwKibRdibDEZhSCj3SA

 

g6tB%zomT0SH5%1iZuBLmA

 

y6CNrGIiTQGc8IzFJtV58w

 

Here’s the article from Wikipedia:

 

Nicholas I of Russia’s daughter Grand Duchess Maria Nikolaïevna first had the idea of building a church for Florence’s Russian community in 1873, but it was only six years later that a large gift from prince Paul Pavlovitch Demidoff of San Donato allowed construction to commence. Pietro Berti was initially taken on to design it by archpriest Vladimir Levitsky, then curate of the Orthodox church at the Russian embassy. However, he later switched to the Russian academician Mikhail Preobrazhensky and the Florentine engineer Giuseppe Boccini.

Preobrajensky’s first designs of 1883-85 were too ambitious, so a temporary church was built on a site acquired by the embassy. This became the parish church in 1888. Levitsky eventually raised enough funds to build a permanent structure and in 1897 the Russian ambassador and foreign minister approved plans produced in 1890 by Preobrajensky.

The first stone was laid on 28 October 1899 at a ceremony attended by count Caracciolo di Sarno, prefect of Florence, general Antonio Baldissera, the Russian ambassador Aleksandr Nelidov and consul general Tchelebidaky.

The lower part of the church (dedicated to St Nicholas the Wonderworker) was consecrated on 21 October 1902 and the upper church (dedicated to the Nativity of Christ) was consecrated on 8 November 1903. However, the building as a whole was only fully completed the following year.

After the 1917 Revolution the church in Florence lost Russian state support and in 1921 it became independent from the church back in Russia despite attempts by Soviet diplomats to claim ownership of the building. From 1920 onwards it was under the jurisdiction of Eulogius and in February 1931 it joined the jurisdiction of the Archdiocese of Russian Orthodox churches in Western Europe.

Constantine I of Greece died in exile in Palermo on 11 January 1923 and later that year he was buried in the church, followed in 1926 by his mother queen Olga Constantinovna of Russia and in 1932 by his widow Sophia of Prussia. All three sets of remains were moved to the Tatoi Palace in Greece in November 1936, a year after the restoration of the Greek monarchy.

4HNADwVJQCOGHvs3TiNywQ

 

fullsizeoutput_36f2

 

fullsizeoutput_36f6

 

fullsizeoutput_36f8

 

fullsizeoutput_36fa

To visit the church, it is necessary to make an appointment. For further information call +39 055 477986.

The iris are blooming at the English Cemetery in Florence

This is the season in which the iris blooms.  Alas, we are at the beginning of Phase 2 here in Italy and can’t enter spaces like the English cemetery or the Boboli Gardens yet.  Still, I wanted to have a look, even from the outside.

fullsizeoutput_2f0f

 

fullsizeoutput_2f10

 

fullsizeoutput_2f11

 

fullsizeoutput_2f12

 

fullsizeoutput_2f13

 

fullsizeoutput_2f14

 

fullsizeoutput_2f15

 

fullsizeoutput_2f17

 

fullsizeoutput_2f18

 

fullsizeoutput_2f18

 

fullsizeoutput_2f19

 

fullsizeoutput_2f1b

 

fullsizeoutput_2f1d

 

fullsizeoutput_2f1f

 

fullsizeoutput_2f21

 

 

 

 

 

fullsizeoutput_2f22

 

fullsizeoutput_2f23

 

fullsizeoutput_2f24

 

fullsizeoutput_2f25

 

fullsizeoutput_2f26

 

fullsizeoutput_2f27

 

Bye, sweet place.  I’ll be back to see you soon from the inside as well!