Museo Bardini has re-opened in Florence

And I paid a visit.  It was not like the old days, where you could wander at will, which is very sad.  Now they have a “percorso” or path, which you have to follow and they have guards in every room watching you like a hawk.  It didn’t feel like they were watching out for Covid.  It felt like they thought I was going to damage or steal the art.  I didn’t care for it.  Plus, I was one of 3 visitors.  I mean, really?

Despite my complaints, the museum is still a wonderful place with a fascinating collection. It is one of my favorite museums in Florence.  Here are a few of my favorite things:

 

 

fullsizeoutput_37d9

u0mFmpWkTV6SMSqbNGc28g

JRKX3QjiT%Gdqj7rG3wg8A

The unusual sculpture above, showing a woman breast feeding 2 children at once, is explained in the label above.

 

fullsizeoutput_3787

fullsizeoutput_3785

 

Here’s some info about the collector for whom the museum is named:

fullsizeoutput_3771

%2T1EyiDQy6FTZapRJWzgg

 

And here are some of his eclectic objets:

9YHqZw8eSEiWBvb57VHjzQ

It’s official.  My new favorite art form is medieval sculpture.  I mean, look at the examples above and below.  Did you ever see a sweeter angel above?

Toz7B9JuQGeQFcIigeTwGQ

And, above, check out the lion caryatid figure.  Notice that he has a poor ram pinned below his feet, for all eternity.  The poor ram.  I love the primitive charm of these sculptures!

 

 

When I backtracked to take a picture of this gorgeous Renaissance doorway was when I knew my visit yesterday was not going to be the carefree affair of the olden days.  A mean, older woman reprimanded me for taking a few steps back towards where I had come from (although how you would notice the far side of the doorway you are walking through is beyond me), cackling at me that you must follow the path forward (I saw no signs showing me the path ahead either).

But, forget about her…look at the sumptuous doorway.  Wow.  What it must have felt like to use such casings.

W1XCFe0wTgCVo6UJvb0TgA

 

 

Going upstairs, like a good girl, I arrived in the room for which I had come.  I could spend hours in this gallery, if they would turn on all of the lights and get rid of the guards acting like I was going to damage the artworks.

 

fullsizeoutput_378d

 

fullsizeoutput_378f

 

fullsizeoutput_378b

 

Donatello’s Madonna and Child with the Apple

fullsizeoutput_3794

 

fullsizeoutput_3798

fullsizeoutput_37a8

 

 

Donatello’s Madonna and Child, known as the Madonna and the Ropemakers:

fullsizeoutput_37a0

 

fullsizeoutput_37a4

 

fullsizeoutput_37a6

 

And then there are the cassone, or the wooden chests (like a hope chest for an aristocratic Italian woman), that Bardini collected.  If they would turn on the lights in the gallery and let me get close to the works, I would be in heaven.  As it is, I’m halfway to heaven, just looking at the furniture and thinking about the girls/women whose lives they represent.

 

fullsizeoutput_378f

 

fullsizeoutput_37b4

 

fullsizeoutput_37aa

 

fullsizeoutput_37ac44lFH4W0QkyTmYca8ktY4w

 

And then there are the cornice: the incredible frames that Bardini collected. Any American art museum would give eye teeth for one of these marvelous frames.

 

fullsizeoutput_37b6

 

 

Moving into another gallery, I pass through another sumptuous doorway casing:

fullsizeoutput_37b8

 

Beautiful painted crucifixes were also collected by Bardini.  Below them, more cassone.

fullsizeoutput_37be

 

fullsizeoutput_37bc

 

fullsizeoutput_37c2

 

I could spend a day in this museum just studying the ceilings:

fullsizeoutput_37c4

 

fullsizeoutput_37c6

 

Or the Sienese sculpture:

fullsizeoutput_37ca

fullsizeoutput_37cf

 

Below, you might think you are looking at a rug on a floor, but it is a ceiling:

fullsizeoutput_37d1

 

Upon leaving my favorite galleries, I go down this stairway, lined with rugs hung on walls.  Very effective.

fullsizeoutput_37d5

What a collection.  Despite the guards, I love this museum!

The Russian Orthodox Church in Florence

I have the good fortune to live 2 blocks from this gorgeous landmark.  It is almost never open for visits, but I got lucky and snagged a ticket for a rare tour recently.

Chiesa_russa_ortodossa_della_natività_di_Firenze,_laterale

fullsizeoutput_36c7

Known as the Church of the Nativity of Christ and St. Nicholas the Wonderworker (Chiesa della Natività di Nostro Signore Gesù Cristo e San Nicola Taumaturgo), The  Russian Orthodox church is located on via Leone X. Its style is a late 19th and early 20th century imitation of the earlier Naryshkin Baroque.

By the end of the 19th century, there was a small but elite Russian colony in Florence.  Their much desired permanent place of worship came to fruition between 1899 and 1903. It was the first Russian Orthodox church to be built in Italy and was designed by Russian architect Mikhail Preobrazhensky (1854–1930), who had trained at Moscow’s Academy of Arts, and was erected under the supervision of Italian architects Giuseppe Coccini (1840–1900) and Giovanni Paciarelli (1862–1929). The church is a fine combination of Russian and Italian artistry.

 

fullsizeoutput_36c9

The church is topped with one large central onion-shaped dome and four smaller ones, all covered with bright turquoise, green and white scales of majolica (manufactured by the Cantagalli factory of Florence) and topped with gilt crosses and chains. Laid out in the form of a Greek cross, the church grounds are surrounded by an iron railing fence with three monumental gates decorated with the double-headed imperial eagle and Florentine lily forged by the Michelucci foundry of Pistoia.

The church itself, constructed in red brick and grey stone (pietra Serena) from quarries near Fiesole, is decorated with 52 semi-circular or ogival arches known as kokočniki (named after the traditional Russian female headdress) and featuring six winged cherubs, like those of the Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ in St. Petersburg.

Above the doorway, a canopy houses a Venetian-made mosaic icon of “Znamenie,” the mother of God, between stems of flowering lilies. On the north and south sides of the church, two other tabernacles house mosaics of the Peter and Paul.

The splendid wooden entrance door, which came from the private chapel at Villa Demidoff at San Donato, was inspired by Ghiberti’s Gates of Paradise. Depicting 22 scenes from the Old Testament, it had won its creator Rinaldo Barbetti first prize in a national exhibition in Florence in 1861.

 

fullsizeoutput_36cb

 

fullsizeoutput_36cc
True impetus was given to the church-building project when Archipriest Vladimir Levitsky (1840–1923) arrived in Florence in 1878. Despite many setbacks regarding, for instance, the designation of the land where the church should be built, Levitsky persevered and, in 1890, travelled to St. Petersburg to present the procurator-general of the synod with drawings prepared by the chosen architect, Preobrazhensky. A decree authorizing the construction of the church was issued in May 1891, but it took another seven years before the Russian Ministry of Foreign Affairs finally gave its permission.

 

fullsizeoutput_36ce

 

fullsizeoutput_36d0

 

fullsizeoutput_36d2

 

fullsizeoutput_36d4

 

fullsizeoutput_36c5

 

fullsizeoutput_36ce

 

fullsizeoutput_36d0

 

fullsizeoutput_36d2

 

fullsizeoutput_36d4

 

fullsizeoutput_36d6

 

fullsizeoutput_36d8

 

fullsizeoutput_36da

 

fullsizeoutput_36dc

 

ytUDNLkVRPWOD49i4gXKtQ

 

Cyf9LFCKQzukN53JnkKxbw

Typical of Orthodox churches in northern Russia at the time, the Florence church was built on two storeys: the lower church, designed to be warmer in winter, was dedicated to Saint Nicholas, in memory of the Demidoff chapel. The upper church, cooler in summer, was dedicated to the Nativity and features a magnificent marble iconostasis with icons of the patron saints of the imperial family gifted by the assassinated Tsar Nicholas II, a martyr of the Orthodox Church.

 

XGCIaIfUTo+tL4g5c31JzA

 

7Jo4DW%VR6OJcl7HsG+BeQ

 

fullsizeoutput_36de

 

fullsizeoutput_36e0

 

fullsizeoutput_36e2

 

fullsizeoutput_36e4

 

fullsizeoutput_36e6

 

fullsizeoutput_36e8

 

fullsizeoutput_36ea

 

fullsizeoutput_36ec

 

fullsizeoutput_36ee

 

fullsizeoutput_36f4

 

WjT2vaerQ4aB+huoremz0w

 

fullsizeoutput_36fc

 

fullsizeoutput_3700

 

fullsizeoutput_36fe

 

fullsizeoutput_3702

 

fullsizeoutput_3704

 

6XZdPZxYSSSwuVkTgLT05g

 

g%ku88VwSvWarZzbZpY%Cw

 

uxhkDPlDQkuobofdMG0eTQ

 

ojRBbYM3RySa756MJCu7wg

 

DtqsJ860Sm+ezJdJW8YXmg

 

o9CEOS56QJqeZwatF99bXQ

 

w4x3AsxOTeGBLBch1rLbAQ

 

PCf04bPcSX6Ub+8DjXHxUA

 

fullsizeoutput_365a

 

yF7pwKibRdibDEZhSCj3SA

 

g6tB%zomT0SH5%1iZuBLmA

 

y6CNrGIiTQGc8IzFJtV58w

 

Here’s the article from Wikipedia:

 

Nicholas I of Russia’s daughter Grand Duchess Maria Nikolaïevna first had the idea of building a church for Florence’s Russian community in 1873, but it was only six years later that a large gift from prince Paul Pavlovitch Demidoff of San Donato allowed construction to commence. Pietro Berti was initially taken on to design it by archpriest Vladimir Levitsky, then curate of the Orthodox church at the Russian embassy. However, he later switched to the Russian academician Mikhail Preobrazhensky and the Florentine engineer Giuseppe Boccini.

Preobrajensky’s first designs of 1883-85 were too ambitious, so a temporary church was built on a site acquired by the embassy. This became the parish church in 1888. Levitsky eventually raised enough funds to build a permanent structure and in 1897 the Russian ambassador and foreign minister approved plans produced in 1890 by Preobrajensky.

The first stone was laid on 28 October 1899 at a ceremony attended by count Caracciolo di Sarno, prefect of Florence, general Antonio Baldissera, the Russian ambassador Aleksandr Nelidov and consul general Tchelebidaky.

The lower part of the church (dedicated to St Nicholas the Wonderworker) was consecrated on 21 October 1902 and the upper church (dedicated to the Nativity of Christ) was consecrated on 8 November 1903. However, the building as a whole was only fully completed the following year.

After the 1917 Revolution the church in Florence lost Russian state support and in 1921 it became independent from the church back in Russia despite attempts by Soviet diplomats to claim ownership of the building. From 1920 onwards it was under the jurisdiction of Eulogius and in February 1931 it joined the jurisdiction of the Archdiocese of Russian Orthodox churches in Western Europe.

Constantine I of Greece died in exile in Palermo on 11 January 1923 and later that year he was buried in the church, followed in 1926 by his mother queen Olga Constantinovna of Russia and in 1932 by his widow Sophia of Prussia. All three sets of remains were moved to the Tatoi Palace in Greece in November 1936, a year after the restoration of the Greek monarchy.

4HNADwVJQCOGHvs3TiNywQ

 

fullsizeoutput_36f2

 

fullsizeoutput_36f6

 

fullsizeoutput_36f8

 

fullsizeoutput_36fa

To visit the church, it is necessary to make an appointment. For further information call +39 055 477986.

Re-opened Florence

Little by little, she is coming back to life.

The Uffizi is still closed to the public, but I was reassured that Cosimo I, il Pater Patriae, is still waiting for me, as is Lorenzo il Magnifico.  Very nice to know!

fullsizeoutput_30f1

 

fullsizeoutput_30f2

 

fullsizeoutput_30f3

 

Together these Medici gentlemen guard the Uffizi, even during a pandemic.

 

The nearby Palazzo Vecchio, is partially open.  The museum and tours are not yet ready for visitors, but the elegant and lovely cortile is ready to be admired again.  And, I am a very willing supplicant.

 

 

 

fullsizeoutput_30f5

 

fullsizeoutput_30f6

 

fullsizeoutput_30f8

 

fullsizeoutput_30f9

 

fullsizeoutput_30fa

 

fullsizeoutput_30fb

 

fullsizeoutput_30fc

 

fullsizeoutput_30fd

 

fullsizeoutput_30fe

 

fullsizeoutput_3100

 

fullsizeoutput_3102

 

fullsizeoutput_3104

 

fullsizeoutput_3106

 

fullsizeoutput_3108

 

fullsizeoutput_3109

 

fullsizeoutput_310a

 

fullsizeoutput_310b

 

0XH5Fv83R%GaVd91HQjrzA

 

And a quick stop for a real cappuccino served in a real cup at the bar at Scudieri.  Life is good!

fullsizeoutput_310d

 

Sforzesco Castle, Milan

Wow. Just wow.  I don’t know why I never paid a visit to this astounding place before now!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And, last, but certainly not least, you don’t see a lot of elephants in Italian art, but here is a big exception to the rule.

 

The Poldi Pezzoli Museum, Milan

Yikes! Nothing like being met by an army! The outstanding collection of armor below is just one of the many parts of the Poldi Pezzoli Museum that will amaze you in Milan.

fullsizeoutput_277d

fullsizeoutput_2779

The Poldi Pezzoli Museum is housed in the original 19th-century mansion built by Milanese aristocrat, Gian Giacomo Poldi Pezzoli (1822-1879).  His parents and grandparents had already begun the family’s art collection and he built his palazzo in this tony section of Milan to house the collection it as he continued to enlarge it.  When he died, he left his collection and house to the Brera Academy. The Poldi Pezzoli Museum was opened to the public in 1881 on the occasion of the National Exposition in Milan and has since become an archetype for other famous collectors.

Screen Shot 2019-12-14 at 18.06.34

c2af768b069e4cd180c603a51f210404_400x400

The Poldi Pezzoli is one of the most important and famous house-museums in the world. Located near the landmark Teatro La Scala and the world-renowned fashion district, this house-museum is beloved by the Milanese and international public.

The Poldi Pezzoli is a member of the Circuit of Historic House Museums of Milan, a city network established in 2008 with the aim of promoting the Milanese cultural and artistic heritage.

During World War II, the museum was severely damaged and many paintings were completely destroyed. The palazzo itself was rebuilt and in 1951 it was reopened to the public.

Not all of the house was restored as it appeared during Poldi Pezzoli’s life, but it was instead fitted out as a museum. The grand entryway, with its fountain filled with koi and its spiral staircase are original, as are at least 2 of the piano nobile galleries.  You’ll recognize them right away in the pictures below.

The outstanding collection includes objects from the medieval period to the 19th century, with the famous armor, Old Master paintings, sculptures, carpets, lace and embroidery, jewels, porcelain, glass, furniture, sundials and clocks: over 5000 extraordinary pieces.

Let’s begin at the entry way.  What a greeting!

 

 

 

Below: the view of the fountain from atop the staircase:

 

 

I was a bit obsessed by the fountain; can you tell?

 

 

Allora, moving on:

img_2806

 

 

 

YHd%s2tjTZipV%4qJnRlqg

 

Angels in the architecture:

S5P4afnARZW8hw97CfvzPw

 

Dragons on the pottery:

Zdt4u15WS8+HiAeGLvTJbw

 

QKg2ZlZmTWa9A1Jb8d25lg

 

fullsizeoutput_27b7

 

I love the way they display the ceramics: why not affix objets to the ceiling?  It is a wasted flat space otherwise.  Genius.

fullsizeoutput_27b3

 

5RRy7FG1SZCQcyTF1b9xkg

 

Moving on to the important objets: Piero del Pollaiuolo magnificent Portrait of a Young Lady.

fullsizeoutput_27b1

 

fullsizeoutput_280a

 

fullsizeoutput_27af

 

 

 

Botticelli’s The Dead Christ Mourned:

olskXBlhTY6LieIy%dg8EQ

fullsizeoutput_279e

 

 

Bellini:

fullsizeoutput_27a6

fullsizeoutput_27a2

 

 

6MhogjzwQCy5ueqVe90qhg

 

 

 

Q1nva4QvTfGpicIkkrVcTA

 

JV3uxtyqSBKRa1T26SgX1w

 

bcTe9zdJRNytyKdFseRrVA

 

l24I2suoTYG75TXaEXODEw

 

 

Ah, the glass.  It gets me every time:

fullsizeoutput_279a

 

YTjiGhygTxCSkyiMCdw+Yw

 

lNRmOuo4QCub3lEmyehJMA

 

fullsizeoutput_2798

 

fullsizeoutput_2794

 

fullsizeoutput_2792

 

VU4r8tp2Rl2MLzwHdfML9A

 

wdcTjLTJRH+UZ1xgGZiFfg

 

The panel below made me laugh.  I love how the sculptor included the slippers at the side of the bed! In this dastardly scene of homicide, don’t forget the slippers!

fullsizeoutput_278c

 

fullsizeoutput_278e

 

 

W%tbLkKwRheihzX5lKCFNg

 

fullsizeoutput_278a

 

fullsizeoutput_2788

 

fullsizeoutput_2786

 

fullsizeoutput_2784

 

5h1n1Fo8QOWrwYElE1rCoQ

 

DabU%gWCTKSdfesISEZtWQ

 

fullsizeoutput_268d

 

fullsizeoutput_2782

 

fullsizeoutput_2781

 

fullsizeoutput_277f

 

 

Since 2019 marks the 500th anniversary of Leonardo da Vinci’s death, the world is paying homage to the great artist with myriad exhibitions.  The Poldi Pezzoli joins them with a major painting, on loan from the Russian Hermitage Museum, just for the occasion. Leonardo painted this work during his time living in Milan.

 

img_2795

 

img_2796

img_2793

img_2797

img_2794

img_2798