Henry James once said that these two words, summer afternoon, are the most beautiful in the English language. I agree.
I have a lovely Florentine friend who has an amazing home in the picturesque hills just outside the city. I had the great pleasure of joining her for lunch recently, and here are some pictures of her beautiful home and gardens. I am very comfortable saying: I am green with envy! Maybe in my next life, I will be so lucky…!! What a gorgeous summer afternoon.
Arianna tole me her wisteria vine is at least 30 years old. It is fabulous! Luckily for me, it was on its second bloom of the season.
To lounge on a recliner under an umbrella tree and listen to the cicadas is about as close to heaven as I’ve ever been!
Not far from my home in Florence lies a secret garden, the Orti del Parnaso, filled with lots of symbolism, including a ferocious snaked-shape fountain (water not playing in my pictures).
The garden’s name refers to Mt. Parnassus in central Greece.
The “snake” winds along the staircase leading to the lower garden and into the Giardino orticultura and its Tepidarium by Giacomo Roster.
You can enter the secret garden off via Trento, where an elegant iron gate leads to a beautiful belvedere. This takes you into the Orti del Parnaso, the highest part of Florence’s wonderful horticultural garden. Once inside, you find yourself on a splendid terrace overlooking a gorgeous panorama of the city of Florence.
Parnassus of course refers to the famous Greek mountain, which in ancient times was considered sacred to the god Apollo and the nine Muses who headquartered there. The mountain was the source of the river Castalia, which provided passage in mythology to the underworld and was a source of purification.
The fountain in this secret garden completed in 1990 based on a design by Marco Dezzi Bardeschi. It is meant to represent the myth of Python, the monstrous snake son of Gea. According to the legend, Python was covered with the mud of the Flood and could wrap the city of Delphi 7 times round with its coils. Python’s breath was so pestilential as to dry out all the plants with which he came into contact (in ancient Greek the verb “pyzein” means “to rot”). Apollo eventually killed Python on Mount Parnassus, near the Oracle of Delphi, and in its honor the pythic games were established. These games were some of the sacred holidays of ancient Greece.
In 2003 the Florentine Parnaso Garden became the seat of the Giardino dei Giusti, or the Garden of the Righteous, a place dedicated to the memory and commemoration of all those ordinary people who tried to save other human beings from persecution, genocide and acts of violence.
In recognition of this status, in the upper part of the park there is a Carob tree about 60 years old. This tree is symbol of the Garden of the Righteous of Jerusalem, dedicated to the memory of Chico Mendes, a Brazilian trade unionist killed in 1988 for his defense of the Indians of the Amazon.
In the same area there is also a 40 year old crepe myrtle, dedicated to the memory of the Tuscan cyclist Gino Bartali, who during the Nazi occupation courageously helped the Jews persecuted by the regime, an action that in 2013 earned him the appointment of “Just among the nations. ”
The volunteer group of gardeners, of which I am privileged to be a member, at the Boboli Gardens has finally returned to work after suspension for Covid-19. I joined the first session last week and was immediately thrown back into the unbelievable beauty of this time and place. Here are just a few photos which, I hope, capture the moment.
La Foce, or “the mouth” of the Orcia river, in the beautiful Val d’Orcia, Toscana. If there is a more beautiful place on earth, I’ve yet to find it.
Created by Iris Origo and her husband, this incredible formal Italian garden is set amidst the rugged Crete senesi. This was my second visit, but I know there will be more visits in the future. Last time I was there, it was late summer and the earth and foliage was rather brown. This time, after the rains we have been getting, it was vibrantly green. It is beautiful in any season.
Part 6 of my recent visit to the magnificent Franciscan basilica of Santa Croce. You can find the other posts here.
Check out Santa Croce from the front. I wonder how long we can enjoy the city before the tourists return? Not sure, but I am enjoying every second of the city in its current, quieter state.
When you leave the interior of the church, walking into the cortile, you immediately see the splendid Pazzi Chapel. The chapel wasn’t accessible yet when I was there, but even a look from the outside is enough to calm the soul.
The Pazzi is seen in the plan below; note the circle in the plan and that’s the chapel. You can see how the green lawn in front sets it off. Green grass is a rare commodity in Florence.
This is the season in which the iris blooms. Alas, we are at the beginning of Phase 2 here in Italy and can’t enter spaces like the English cemetery or the Boboli Gardens yet. Still, I wanted to have a look, even from the outside.
Bye, sweet place. I’ll be back to see you soon from the inside as well!
Some of these are of course from the archives. Nobody would believe that Florence’s Piazza Santa Annunziata would be filled with people in April of 2020. If it were, the police would soon be there!
But, from 20 years ago or so, I found this wonderful picture of the piazza during a plant exhibition of some kind. Sigh. :-))
Sometimes, you just need a fresh look at an old friend. How about the one below: the pavement of Florence’s Duomo. Wow.
A recent drone overview of the beautiful Duomo. In shots like this, you realize just how small Florence is. See the Piazza della Repubblica to the left.
And a recent shot from the arbored passerella near my apartment. I love wisteria so much!
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