Mariano Fortuny, Renaissance man

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Do you know what this lovely objet is?

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How about now?

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Are you stumped? I’ll give you a clue. 

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Like a lot of the world’s best stuff, it comes from Italy.  The objet under discussion actually comes from Venice.

Venice is home to many marvels.  One of my favorites among them all is the Fortuny Museum.

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If you are lucky enough someday to find yourself in Venice with a little extra free time, then consider yourself fortunate indeed!  If this unusual scenario is yours, then you owe it to yourself and to the gods of fortune to get off the typical turista track and hightail it over to this museum in this fabulous old palazzo.  Trust me, you’ll be glad you did.

For there you will find lots of this stuff.

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Lots and lots of it.  It is a textile.

You will find it in dresses.

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Lots and lots of very amazing dresses:

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And all of it was designed by this one man, Mariano Fortuny.

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Are you familiar with the amazing artistic career of Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo (1871-1949)?  If not, you should be!  Let’s get to work!

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As you can see from this portrait, Fortuny was very “artistic!”  Quote unquote! His contemporaries considered him to be a Renaissance man, for he was astoundingly creative and versatile, working in many media.

Fortuny was, like all of us, influenced by the contemporary styles and designs of his day. These fashions were informed by the latest aesthetic and functional concepts promoted by reformers of the applied arts, such as William Morris and Edward Burne-Jones. Leaders of the Arts and Crafts movement, the theories of these men and others called for a modern style freed from the restraints of convention.

Fortuny was born in Spain, the son of the painter Mariano Fortuny y Marsal. His mother was the daughter of another famous painter, Raimundo de Madrazo y Garreta, so Fortuny came by his artistic abilities naturally.

Sadly, Forturny’s father died when he was only three, but his mother supplied him with an extraordinary childhood. She moved her family to Paris after her husband’s death in Spain and in 1889 the family moved again, settling finally in Venice.  Lucky Venice!

Fortuny’s mother was an inveterate collector of rich, oriental textiles and had collections of them from the various shops she had visited throughout Europe. Her son spent his childhood around these gorgeous fabrics and adopted his mother’s love for them. It is said that as a child he amused himself by tinting various fabrics to see what effects he could achieve.

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As Fortuny reached his maturity, it became apparent that he was an extremely gifted person with many artistic abilities. He was successful in an astounding number of media, including painting, photography, sculpture, architecture, printmaking and even theatrical stage lighting.  His creativity led him to register and patent more than twenty inventions between 1901 and 1934.

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The world remembers him mainly, however, for his contributions to fabric design and for a few fabulous garments. He opened his house of couture in 1906.

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Fortuny is best remembered for his dress designs, which were fabricated from an innovative pleated silk, produced by machines designed and patented by the artist himself. Modern eyes will see Fortuny’s fabric and usage as a forerunner to Issey Miyake’s designs.

The artist:

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In 1907, Fortuny created his most spectacular Art Nouveau dress, the so-called “Delphos robe” in his signature pleated silk. The dress was worn by theatrical legends Isadora Duncan and Sarah Bernhardt.

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Designed in a revolutionary shape, inspired by ancient Grecian gown, the long dresses were simple and loose, artistic and functional; their borders were usually finished with Venetian colored glass beads, which were both ornamental and functional.

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These finely pleated fabrics fall to the floor in long vertical lines, while closely following the sleek figure below.  This is the Fortuny manner.  When you hear someone refer to a Fortuny dress, this is what they mean.

All the pleated and printed silk, the dresses, and the scarves were hand-made in Fortuny’s studio, as were the multi-colored velvets, the satin linings, the silk cording and belts. Before being made up, the silks were dyed in every color imaginable, with different designs or color combinations.

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It is a lot of fun to have a Vogue Magazine clipping from 1912 which discusses the current trend of all things Fortuny in America.

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It is almost impossible to read the Vogue article here, but you can find it online here: http://www.oldmagazinearticles.com/Mariano_Fortuny_Article_Knossos_Scarf_Vogue_Magazine_1912.  Do you take time everyday to thank the gods of fortune for the internet?  I do! I really do.

Vintage Fortuny gowns have labels like this:

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and this:

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Here’s a vintage Fortuny, with one of his jackets on top:

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And another:

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Every little once in a while, a Fortuny style gown is resurrected for current fashionistas:

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Fortuny devoted his life to “Art” with a capital A, and was not only an accomplished dress and fabric designer, but he excelled in  stage design as well general interior design.

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Fortuny invented methods of textile dyeing and printing, which allowed him to reproduce the depth of color and beauty of ancient brocades, velvets, and tapestries. In 1919, he he moved his textile workshop to a former convent on Giudecca, which is one of the many islands in the Venetian lagoon.

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Luxe fabrics such as this one are signatures of Fortuny.  The rich color is immediately suggestive of Venice in particular and Italy in general.

Here’s another:

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And another:

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I could go on like this forever:

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And ever:

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Here is another look at the Fortuny Museo:

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A vintage shot of the artist in his library in his Venetian palazzo:

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As if all of the above was not enough, Fortuny also created elegant lamps which diffused subtle light through opalescent silk shades, stretched over delicate wire form. The silk was hand-painted with gold motifs inspired by Oriental art and as a finishing touch, the lamps were decorated with glass beads and silk cording.

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Here are two small lampshades for wall sconces.

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Fortuny’s life and work was a source of inspiration to the French novelist Marcel Proust.  Not bad!

Synchronicity. Hepburn and Givenchy.

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Have you ever seen anything more beautiful than this image?

Synchronicity brought it into being.  Hepburn and Givenchy.

As I have been posting, many of actress Audrey Hepburn’s movie costumes were designed by Hubert de Givenchy, the famed French fashion designer.

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Here we see the fashion designer above.

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And here, in the photo, above we see a candid still of Audrey with Givenchy.  She is modeling the wedding dress she wears in Funny Face and appears to be dancing some ballet steps.

Fortunately, for us and all of posterity, a lot of photos of Audrey and her favorite designer, or Audrey in his clothing, live in the ether net. For me, the photo below is one of the most beautiful pictures ever taken of any person, ever. Beauty personified.

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I just can’t get enough of this image.  I could look at it for the rest of my life.  And I plan to do just that!

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But let’s talk a little turkey about Hubert himself.

Count Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy was born in 1927 and is of course a French aristocrat and the founder of The House of Givenchy in 1952.

He is, as we have been discussing, famous for having designed much of the personal and professional wardrobe of Miss Hepburn:

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(and the two of them together is a pretty amazing sight)

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Givenchy also created clothing for other amazing clients such as Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy, seen below:

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In 1970 Givenchy was named to the International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame.  Like Miss Hepburn in the field of acting, Givenchy is the top of his profession.  Their synchronicity was perfect.
Here are a few of the outstanding garments he designed throughout the years.

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But there was something very special going on between Hepburn and Givenchy.

He even designed a fragrance especially for the actress.

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As I said in my recent post on Funny Face, it is obvious that Miss Hepburn became the muse for many amazing artists, including Givenchy but also for the photographer Richard Avedon.

Givenchy, the designer, seen below, is himself is a pretty nice tall drink of water.

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Wouldn’t you have loved to receive a personal note from him as below?

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And here, to end this post, is a gorgeous Miss Hepburn in an equally gorgeous Givenchy design.  Sigh.  Absolutely breathtaking.

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Au revoir mon ami, happy le weekend!

Next up, Sabrina, if you please!

The year is 1954 and Audrey Hepburn is 25 years old. Following the amazing success of Roman Holiday released in 1953, Hollywood couldn’t wait to produce another film with her.  Having won the Oscar and other awards for her role in Roman Holiday, Audrey was seen as solid gold.

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Billy Wilder was the next director to have the good fortune to direct Miss H in a film, and that movie was Sabrina.

In the picture below, Mr. Wilder gives the actress direction near Wall Street in New York.

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Sabrina was designed to showcase Miss H, which it most certainly and admirably accomplished.

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Unfortunately, the 65 year old Humphrey Bogart (supposedly Cary Grant was offered the role but turned it down) was cast as Sabrina’s love interest, which bends the credulity of even the most rabid fans of the lovely actress.  And I like Humphrey Bogart a lot!  But she was 25 to his 65.  Crazy.

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You may freely call me any form of crazy, but I sense in all these stills of Hepburn and Bogart that she was just not comfortable with the roles they were playing opposite of each other.

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And I further think that some of the candid shots taken on the set further reveals her discomfort. One of these is above.

And, if you think I am hallucinating, compare the candid shots of Bogart with Miss H to the ones below with William Holden and Miss H.  I think you’ll see what I mean!

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If Audrey H wasn’t enjoying William Holden’s presence, I will eat my hat.

Her confidence with him shows through in the film and in publicity stills.

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William Holden played the role of Humphrey Bogarts’s younger brother in the movie. He is much more believable as Miss H’s innamorato, for Holden was only 11 years her senior.

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But, whatever.  It was what it was.  We have another great black and white film on which to gaze at the beautiful, sylph-like star.

Let’s take a look at her in various moments in the film:

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In her role as young Sabrina before her trip to Paris.  She helps her dad, the chauffeur, wash a car.  She has one eye on her unrequited love object, the character played by William Holden.

Ready for a game of indoor tennis in a Givenchy ballgown below.

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Waiting for a ride at the Long Island train station after her 2 year sojourn of culinary training in Paris.

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Tres chic, mademoiselle!

Giving new elegance to a Manhattan boardroom:

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The current television show, Mad Men, could well have used the boardroom from Sabrina as a role model for set design.  I bet they did.

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My favorite part of the movie are the scenes of her at the Paris culinary school!

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Maybe I love them just because they show the Eiffel Tower in a snowfall out the cooking school window.  Nah.  It’s because of Audrey.

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I mean, look at her!

Once again, Edith Head had the pleasure of overseeing the costumes for Sabrina, as she did for Roman Holiday and Funny Face. However, the film includes gowns designed by the famed French couturier, Hubert de Givenchy, seen here:

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It is said that Miss Hepburn personally chose the dresses she wore in the movie from Givenchy’s choices.  Both the designer and Miss H were mutually enchanted with each other, thus beginning a lifelong association.

In fact, Monsieur de Givenchy would specially design a perfume for his glamorous friend and muse, Audrey, in 1957. He named it L’interdit, which means “forbidden” in French. The fragrance became the House of de Givenchy’s first cult scent. The scent has a delicate, floral, powdery aroma, with notes of rose, jasmine, violet and, at the heart, a blend of woods and grasses. The sophisticated classic scent is as elegant and lovely as its original wearer.

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But Miss Head won an Oscar for Sabrina, whether or not her role was as large in its production as assumed.

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Whatever the real stories behind the making of the film were, we have the vehicle for more Audrey Hepburn, and that is good enough for me!

One last look at the radiant star:

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Au revoir!

I love your funny face!

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Three years after her fabulous performance with Eddie Albert and Gregory Peck in the 1953 hit, Roman Holiday, Audrey joined forces with Fred Astaire to star in Funny Face.  This time the backdrop was Paris.  Not bad, eh?  First Rome and then Paris.  A good life for sure!

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Actress Kay Thompson, well-known author of the Eloise series of children’s books, joined Audrey and Fred in the production. Here’s a still of Miss Thompson in a great set using the hot colors of the late 1950s, pink and gray:

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The film was enhanced by the contributions of famed photographer Richard Avedon who designed the opening title sequence and consulted throughout. In fact, Astaire’s character in the film is a still photographer named Dick Avery, based upon Avedon. Here’s a picture of the photog.

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And here are a couple of famous shots he took of the luminous Miss Hepburn for Funny Face:

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Avedon supplied some of the still photographs used in the production, including its most famous single image: an intentionally overexposed close-up of Miss Hepburn’s face with only her famous eyes, eyebrows, nose and mouth. It is still recognizable as Audrey.

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Here’s how the famous still was used:

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Hepburn was actually Avedon’s muse in the 1950s and 1960s, and about her he said “I am, and forever will be, devastated by the gift of Audrey Hepburn before my camera. I cannot lift her to greater heights. She is already there. I can only record. I cannot interpret her. There is no going further than who she is. She has achieved in herself her ultimate portrait.”

Of course Miss H got to show off some of her famous dance skills in the movie:

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Including dancing with Mr. Astaire:

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Edith Head was again, as in Roman Holiday, responsible for the overall look and fashions Miss Hepburn wears in Funny Face.  Here is Miss Head with some of her sketches.

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This sketch provided the inspiration for the dress worn in the famous Avendon shots with Audrey and the balloons.

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The divine Miss Hepburn also wears sumptuous gowns designed by Hubert de Givenchy as below:

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Funny Face

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There is a silly plot involving the photographer Dick Avery and the bookstore intellectual turned model, Jo Stockton, played by Miss A.

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The fictional photog and model fuss and fume:

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And then they potentially marry:

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To find out if they do marry, you’ll have to watch the film! Here is a clue.

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There is a superfluous number called “think pink” that is a lot of fun:

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And of course the city of Paris plays a role as well. Here are two shots of Audrey set off by the River Seine.

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And even the Louvre and the famous Victory of Samothrace play a role in the gorgeous film.

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The entire extravaganza is a lot of fun to watch!  Just go and see!

This is India 3. Let’s talk ceramics and tea.

When I visiting India several months ago, one of the fun things I got to see and do was meet this talented potter at his home.  Watching him throw pots on his simple but more than adequate potter’s wheel made all my attempts to throw a pot seem ridiculous!  But, I would expect that.  I’m just an amateur.  This man is the real thing.

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Below is a rack of small cups the potter had thrown the day of my visit. You can see that the little clay cups are still wet. Once they are dry, they will be fired in the kiln.

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Here are a group of similar cups in the kiln after firing.

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Here is another batch of the cups after they’ve been removed from the kiln.

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Each of these cups will be used for a serving of chai, as here

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and, after one use, they will be discarded or even smashed.  That is the traditional Indian custom.  You could call this the original disposal vessel, way before the cardboard cups used at Starbuck’s today.

and then….

when you drink tea as much as I do, you start to wonder…

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Which came first? the Brits in India or tea in India?

I used to think that tea drinking was introduced to the British when they arrived in India. I mean, for goodness sake, India produces a lot of the world’s tea, so I just made the assumption.

Boy, was I ever wrong!  In fact, it was exactly the reverse: the British brought the tea drinking habit to India.  Check this info from Wiki out:

Commercial production of tea in India began after the conquest of large areas by the British East India Company at which point large tracts of land were converted for mass tea production. The widespread popularity of tea as a recreational drink began in earnest in the 1950s, after a successful advertising campaign.

Amazing!

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More info from Wiki:

Today, India is one of the largest tea producers in the world, although over 70 per cent of its tea is consumed within India itself. A number of renowned teas, such as Assam and Darjeeling, also grow exclusively in India.

The Indian tea industry has grown to own many global tea brands and has evolved into one of the most technologically equipped tea industries in the world.

Well, from what I saw in India, the country is almost unimaginable without tea!  Check out these images.

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I rest my case!

Are you getting thirsty?  I gotta go get a chai.

Musings on India, coffee and tea.

In my recent post on camellias, I buried a lead on India/tea drinking/Starbucks/Dubai/the global world we live in.  So, let me yank it out and put it here under its own heading.

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I saw an episode of the Charlie Rose show recently in which Charlie was interviewing Howard Shultz.  It turns out that Starbucks is setting out to introduce the world to the product of tea, just as they have already done with coffee.  Keep in mind that before Starbucks, the Chinese, for example, did not drink coffee.  They do now!

And another piece of trivia is that India has not permitted Starbucks (or Apple) to open any stores.  When I was in India last February, I looked everywhere for a Starbucks.  I saw McDonald’s, which is kinda funny when you think about it–cattle being sacred in India and all (see here for fun http://www.indiamarks.com/what-you-can-and-cant-get-at-mcdonalds-india/).  When I flew into Dubai from Delhi, Starbucks was there: I almost fell on the ground in adoration!  Don’t get me wrong: I am not all about American commercialism spoiling all of the world.  It’s just that in India I needed some reminders of home.  I felt like I was on Mars.

Check it out: Starbucks at the Dubai airport.  Sign in English and Arabic.  What you don’t see in this picture are my tears of joy for seeing a company I recognized!  I am usually a strong, vital tourist.  India brought me to my knees and not in a good way!

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India has excellent teas, of course!  I loved the chai that was prepared even at truckstops!  I’d love a cup right now. Nameste.

So, on the subject of tea in India, let’s have a look:

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Yes, India is identified with tea. Look at this old postage stamp:

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Here’s where tea is grown in India:

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You can purchase tea in India for a lovely presentation.

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Because, as the picture below says, masala chai is everywhere in India.  I love to drink this tea.

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These Sikh men are preparing chai for their customers.

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A pretty presentation.

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The ubiquitous product.

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A street stall vender of tea.

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Here’s to your health.  Now drink your tea.

postscript:  here’s a link for a recipe for chai masala

http://www.vegrecipesofindia.com/masala-tea-powder-dry-masala-chai-powder/

Hola muchachos! Today I am feeling Flamenco!

I am thrilled to be out from under that alphabet.  Whooda thunk running through 26 letters could be so onerous!  Not I.

So, I feel like something different for absolutely no good reason!

Let’s head to Spain!  Ole!

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The first thing you need is music.  Let’s look at a handsome guitar player.  Very nice!

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Then you get a talented, beautiful dancer or two.  Next, you sit back and prepare to marvel at the experience this visual glory!

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Paco Pena and the flamenco dance company.

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I took all of the following pictures a few years ago when I was in Spain to celebrate a birthday. Nights of flamenco in Sevilla and other nights of fado in Portugal, while drinking vinho verde, all of this was muy fantastico!

It was hard for my camera to focus, because the dancers move so quickly.  I actually like the blurry images and the fact that the pictures are out of focus.  It fits the dance.

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And then, if we are talking flamenco, which we are, I must include my favorite John Singer Sargent painting of all: El Jaleo.

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I can hear the guitars and the castanets!

Addios!

Roman Holiday

Oh, how I love this movie!  It is my favorite single film of all time.

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It was released in 1953, which was a very good year! It was Miss Hepburn’s first starring role in an American film, even though the whole thing was set in Rome.  It has a fantastic story which is as moving as it is comedic.

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Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck on a Vespa (bzzzz, bzzzz, vespa means hornet in Italian) with Rome as a backdrop.  It doesn’t get any better than that!  All of my favorites in one shot.

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Here the actors appear on the iconic Spanish Steps.  Miss Hepburn was the perfect age to play a European princess and Mr. Peck was completely believable as a seasoned American journalist looking to get a scoop on a story.  (This is an important distinction, for not every American leading man will be a believable love interest for the amazing Miss Hepburn in her future films.)

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A publicity still.

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I didn’t discover this movie until I was an adult, but it didn’t matter, I fell for it completely. And then, one time I was visiting my friend, Grayce Murabito, in her little village, Casoli di Camiore, near Lucca, and I met the very charismatic Eddie Albert who also had a major role in the film.  Grayce and Eddie had been an entertainment duo in their early professional careers.  I will write a post on them soon.

Here is a still of all 3 of the movie stars, Audrey, Gregory, and Eddie.

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Which was turned into a great poster:

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When the movie begins, we meet the character Miss Hepburn plays, Princess Ann.  She is a very miserable young royal who is stifled and bored in her constant round of official presentations, even when they are in Rome.

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She wants nothing but a little fun in her life and to be released from always doing the right thing.

After she has been all but tucked into bed by her female attendants in her glamorous Roman chamber, she manages to break free.

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Some hi jinx ensue and she winds up in the care of an American journalist who coincidentally is in desperate need of a scoop.  For quite a while he doesn’t realize he has one.

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In the meantime, the princess tastes freedom.  For starters, she gets her hair cut.  She wanders around the streets of Rome, caught up in the sweet pleasure of her freedom to do just as she likes (dolce far niente), and when she strolls by a hairdresser, she can’t resist going in for a break-all-the-rules fashionable haircut.

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Of course her new pixie haircut looks marvelous on her because, after all, she is still Audrey Hepburn!

So, heartened by her new hairstyle, Princess Ann does other daring things, like ride around Rome on a Vespa with an American man.

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And wander the streets of Rome freely, meeting the people.

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And attending an ordinary dance for ordinary people, at which she dances with her handsome journalist friend.

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And sleeping in his tiny apartment in his pajamas.

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She and her journalist friend visit the famous la boca della verita (the mouth of truth) in Rome.  Joe Bradley tells her the myth, which purports that, if you put your hand into the mouth of this sculpture and tell a lie, your hand will be bitten off.

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Ann is apprehensive, but tests it.  Then she and Joe collapse in laughter at her silly fears.

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Along with tasting freedom, the princess also inadvertently gets a taste of love in her dashing co-conspirator.  Only she doesn’t know he knows who she is and that he is actually setting her up.

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But he has fallen in love with her as well.  How could he not? The entire western world was falling in love with Audrey Hepburn right then, no matter what role she was playing.

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In the end, she goes back to her duties and you will have to watch the film to find out how Joe Bradley winds up using his scoop.

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Here’s another still with some technicolor added later.  The princess has discovered gelato as well as freedom.

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The critics and the public alike were captivated by Audrey and her performance in Roman Holiday and she was feted with multiple awards.  Miss H was the first actress to win an Academy Award, a Golden Globe and a BAFTA Award for a single performance.  This beautiful film set Miss H up for a series of great upcoming performances on the American screen.

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It is sweet to look at this candid photo of the two lead characters playing cards during a break from filming in Rome.

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Sigh.  It is such a beautiful film. Run, don’t walk, to see it as soon as possible.  Ride your Vespa if you can.

Ciao a tutti!

Post script: Famed Hollywood designer, Edith Head, created the looks Miss Hepburn wore. Here is Miss Head.

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And here is the sketch Miss Head designed for the ballgown Princess Ann wears to receive dignitaries.

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And, finally, one last, luminous shot of Audrey Hepburn in Rome on the Spanish Steps in color from 1953, for no other reason than I can.

Here’s the vintage trailer for the movie:

Finally! The Letter A, which for me can only be Audrey. Part 1.

In case you hadn’t noticed, I tend to be very verbal.  However, there are just some times in life when words cannot express how I feel.  This is one of those times.  This woman is my idol.  I worship at her feet.  Color is not needed either.  Just black and white film, the model, and the camera.  Done. Perfection achieved.

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Photo of Audrey Hepburn