Back to school! Italian lessons 101.

So, two days ago I became a student again.  To learn to speak Italian. Ayyyyyyyy! Madonna!

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My school is about a 10 minute walk from my apartment.  I go for 4 hours a day, 5 days a week, for two weeks.  Then I see if I think it is worthwhile and can either enroll in another two week course or wing it in Florence and hope for the best.  In any case, I’ll be hoping for the best!

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I think it would be fun to enroll in a course on how to speak like an Italian with your hands.  Lord knows Italians have very verbal hands!  It is such fun to surreptitiously watch them talk to one another. Even if I don’t understand what all the words are, I can usually pick up the drift of the conversation from a few words and all the gestures.

Why do I do all this, expend all this energy, for Italy?  It’s simple really.  I drew you a picture.

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Luigi Gilli Confetteria, Florence

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A couple of days ago I stopped at the oldest cafe (opened in 1733) in Florence, the Gilli Cafe.  Located right on the Piazza della Republica, this is a not-to-be-missed Florentine standard.

I had a cappucino e pasta (pastry) while standing at the bar and snapped this picture of the luxurious interior.

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Calling Gilli’s a bar (which is what you call coffee shops in Italy), is like calling the White House a house.  It’s a bit of an understatement.

Here are some shots of Gilli’s beautiful window displays, filled with candies and other confectioneries for the holiday season.

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Marron glaces, as pretty as you please.

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Better luck at the supermarket in Florence today!

Well, for better or worse, a girl’s gotta eat.

And for me, that meant facing my nemesis from last week, the grocery store!

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So today I put on my suit of armor and headed back down the via, across the viale, into the neighborhood, and entered “my” grocery store.  And today I did not have a panic attack like I did last week!  Woo hoo!  I am making progress!

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And I will have to take my camera and take some pictures of some of the incredible produce, salami products, and the fresh mozzarella falling off the shelves so plentiful is it.  This is my idea of heaven!

Saint Nicholas, today is your day!

Did you know that December 6 is the feast day for Saint Nicholas?  It sure is! And some of my readers know very well that I cannot let this day pass unnoticed.

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Let’s see what Wikipedia has to say about it:

Saint Nicholas (Greek: Ἅγιος Νικόλαος, Hagios Nikólaos, Latin: Sanctus Nicolaus); (15 March 270 – 6 December 343),[3][4] also called Nikolaos of Myra, was a historic 4th-century Christian saint and Greek[5] Bishop of Myra (Demre, part of modern-day Turkey)[6] in Lycia. Because of the many miracles attributed to his intercession, he is also known as Nikolaos the Wonderworker (Νικόλαος ὁ Θαυματουργός, Nikolaos ho Thaumaturgos).

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Like I said, it’s all Greek to me.  Or, maybe I didn’t say it, but I thought it.

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Nicholas had a reputation for secret gift-giving, such as putting coins in the shoes of those who left them out for him, a practice celebrated on his feast day―St Nicholas Day (6 December in Western Christianity and 19 December in Eastern Christianity);[7] and thus became the model for Santa Claus, whose modern name comes from the Dutch Sinterklaas, itself from a series of elisions and corruptions of the transliteration of “Saint Nikolaos”.

Goodness gracious it is so much easier to quote Wikipedia than to explain all this myself. I love living in the 21st century!

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His reputation evolved among the faithful, as was common for early Christian saints.[8] In 1087, part of the relics (about half of the bones) were furtively translated to Bari, in Apulia, Italy; for this reason, he is also known as Nikolaos of Bari. The remaining bones were taken to Venice in 1100.

Hmmm…where is Bari?

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Is Bari notable?

Why, yes it is, thanks for asking! Wiki, whadya say?

Bari is the capital city of the province of Bari and of the Apulia (or, in Italian, Puglia) region, on the Adriatic Sea, in Italy. It is the second most important economic centre of mainland Southern Italy after Naples, and is well known as a port and university city, as well as the city of Saint Nicholas. The city itself has a population of about 320,475, as of 2011, over 116 square kilometres (45 sq mi), while the fast-growing urban area counts 653,028 inhabitants over 203 square kilometres (78 sq mi). The metropolitan area counts 1 million inhabitants.

Bari is made up of four different urban sections. To the north is the closely built old town on the peninsula between two modern harbours, with the Basilica of Saint Nicholas, the Cathedral of San Sabino (1035–1171) and the Hohenstaufen Castle built for Frederick II, which is now also a major nightlife district. To the south is the Murat quarter (erected by Joachim Murat), the modern heart of the city, which is laid out on a rectangular grid-plan with a promenade on the sea and the major shopping district (the via Sparano and via Argiro).

And then that makes me wonder about this:

Basilica di San Nicola

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Basilica of Saint Nicholas
Basilica di San Nicola
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The Basilica di San Nicola by night.

The interior.

The Basilica di San Nicola (Basilica of Saint Nicholas) is a church in Bari, southern Italy, that holds wide religious significance throughout Europe and the Christian world. The basilica is an important pilgrimage destination both for Roman Catholics and Orthodox Christians from Eastern Europe.

The basilica was built between 1087 and 1197, during the Italo-Norman domination of Apulia, the area previously occupied by the Byzantine Catapan of which Bari was the seat. Its foundation is related to the stealing of some of the relics of St. Nicholas from the saint’s original shrine in Myra, in what is now Turkey. When Myra passed into the hands of the Saracens, some saw it as an opportunity to move the saint’s relics to a more hospitable location. According to the justifying legend, the saint, passing by the city on his way to Rome, had chosen Bari as his burial place. There was great competition for the relics between Venice and Bari. The latter won, the relics were carried off under the noses of the lawful Greek custodians and their Muslim masters, and on May 9, 1087, were safely landed at Bari. A new church was built to shelter Nicholas’ remains and Pope Urban II was present at the consecration of the crypt in 1089.

There it is again, that pesky East meets West conflict.  Can’t we all just get along?  Ever?

And that is all you really need to know about St. Nicholas today. Thanks for stopping by and keeping the original St. Nick’s memory alive!

What’s the Italian word for “help me?” I’m having a rough day!

I need to know because today I felt like an idiota in the supermarket!   It wasn’t pretty.

And, btw, none of the pictures in this post are mine. They all came from the internet.  I didn’t have my camera with me because I only have two hands and I had other aims besides picture taking!  Still, I like a picture in a text, so I’m adding some. Thanks for your understanding.

So, here’s the story: I needed to buy some food and sundries for my apartment.  I Google mapped it and found a real supermarket, not an outdoor produce market, but a supermarket within walking distance.  Good job! A week ago, or even 3 days ago, I doubt I would have thought this was a big accomplishment.  But I have been humbled.  I now take enormous pleasure my small steps forward!

I plug the address into my iphone mapping app so I can walk.  I find it odd that as the crow flies I am quite close to the supermarket (henceforth market), but my app has me walking in a really roundabout fashion.  Why is that I wonder? And I soon find out.

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It is because there is a major Viale to cross, which means that there are at least a million cars going a hundred miles an hour zipping along the Viale and if you think you can jay-walk, well go ahead, but don’t call for me when you get hit!

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Now, it honestly didn’t look this bad today, but it felt way worse.  But, after being in India last February, I will never complain about Italian traffic.  Well, rarely, anyway.

So, I follow the directions on my app and I am going about a mile out of my way, all to find the one cross-walk for miles (or meters) around.  But I find it and I cross to the other side.

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My iphone app is almost worthless at this job because there are so many little streets and I am constantly turning around to see if this looks right, and my phone can’t tell if I am going north or south.  So I put that sucker in my coat pocket and used what under normal circumstances is my pretty good sense of direction.  I had studied the Google map back in my apartment so I sort of knew where to find the market.

And there was no way I could forget the street name because it is Via Cimabue!!!!! Only in Florence!

So I am kind of enjoying my walk, it was a pretty nice day, warmish, the rains had ended.  I only felt seriously lost once and I stopped in a naturapathic store and asked a kind young woman if the Unicoop was nearby.  She said yes, I would be there in due minuti. That seemed hopeful!  But then she didn’t know how lost I could get! Ha ha.

But in fact I found it in about four minutes.  Here’s the facade:

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Yay!  I congratulate myself!  My troubles are over! I tell myself.  My only caveat was that I knew I had to hand carry everything I bought back to the apartment, so don’t buy too much, I counsel myself.

I walk in.  Good job!!  It looks like this:

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I want to run away, back to my apartment, pronto! But, like a good pilgrim, I persevere.

I see metal carts, like we have in the United States.  I go to the rack to pull one out.  They are locked down with chains.  And yet, that person just took one, and that person.  So, I stand and watch.  I can remember no Italian words whatsoever. I think I see how you press a button to release the chain.  I try.  I can’t do it.  I gesture to a nice gentleman, how did you do that?  He tells me I need to put in a coin.  I do not see where you insert a coin and I do not know what coin you need.  I have coins in my wallet; I just don’t know which coin I need.  I want to run away, back to my apartment, pronto. Instead, I step aside, feeling like un’idiota. 

And then I see these plastic basket things, kind of like we have in our supermarkets back home when you just want to buy a few items.  Only these are too big to carry.  And then I notice people dragging and pushing them along, like a metal cart!  Woo hoo!  And I see where they are stacked. And before you can utter stupido I have one and I enter the mayhem.

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I only wish the above photo were I!  I only wish I had been smiling at this point!  Truthfully, I was pretty close to tears.

So, up first: produce.  Wow, I will have to devote some posts to Italian supermarket produce sections at some point.  But today I was not feeling all, “isn’t this beautiful” ish.  I was feeling all “I want to run away, back to my apartment”ish.  Then, it hit me.  What I had read before coming to Italy this time.  Dunt dun dun! You can’t touch the produce without plastic gloves on!

And, I defy you to walk into a supermarket in Italy and quickly don two plastic gloves while not getting run over by other shoppers on a Friday afternoon, and not losing track of your plastic cart thing, and trying to smile and be polite when all I wanted to do was run away.

So, now I have the stupid gloves on and I see bananas and grapes and I make a beeline.  You pick out what produce you want, and put it in a plastic bag THAT YOU FIRST HAVE TO GET OPENED UP! WHILE YOU HAVE TWO PLASTIC GLOVES ON! I felt ridiculous; it took a long time to get the bags opened.  Then I shoved grapes in one, bananas in the other.  But wait, you are not done!

Next you go to one of these:

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Only in my supermarket today the sign was not in English, I assure you.

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Then you place your produce on the scale, chose the item from a push screen, it weighs it and spits out a sticker that you put on the bag. Only you have plastic gloves on, remember? And the sticker gets stuck to your glove! Solution? Because there is no goddam way you are going to lose that sticker: you attach the sticker WITH THE GLOVE ON IT to the plastic bag around your grapes and you DARE the check out attendant to complain.  Fortunately, he didn’t.  It was about to get ugly there for a minute.

And now you have been 1/2 way through the ordeal with me.  I’ll finish this later.  I have to go take a nap from this first half.