March is a transition month, when the fields from Puglia to Tuscany are planted with spring and summer produce.

This is the last month for fresh pumpkin and radicchio, but beets are already growing in the north and even asparagus begins to make its grand appearance, though it won’t hit its flavor peak for a couple more months.

The star of March is the humble leek. Though you can find leeks cooked in dozens of different ways, leek and potato soup, maybe flavored with some pancetta, is the perfect dish to celebrate this spring onion.