La Foce

La Foce, or “the mouth” of the Orcia river, in the beautiful Val d’Orcia, Toscana.  If there is a more beautiful place on earth, I’ve yet to find it.

Created by Iris Origo and her husband, this incredible formal Italian garden is set amidst the rugged Crete senesi.  This was my second visit, but I know there will be more visits in the future.  Last time I was there, it was late summer and the earth and foliage was rather brown. This time, after the rains we have been getting, it was vibrantly green.  It is beautiful in any season.

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https://www.lafoce.com/it/

 

Inside the Upper Church in the Russian Orthodox Church of Florence

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A recent visit to this beautiful church in Florence led me to write posts on the exterior and the interior of the lower church.  Today I want to focus on the upper church.

You climb the stairs outside the front door of the church, and enter the upper church through this lovely stained glass and iron work door.

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Walking through the door pictured above, I entered the upper church and my immediate thought was “more is certainly more.” I don’t think there is one square inch that is not decorated in this sacred space.

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Even the pavement was quite interesting.  The entire upper church has the feeling of the arts and crafts movement.

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While the consecration of the lower church took place on October 2, 1902, the upper church was not completed because of problems with insufficient funds.

A generous contribution from Princess Elena Petrovna Demidoff of San Donato saved the day and the upper church was consecrated on time, on October 28, 1903. Aside from the Russian locals, Russian diplomats and Orthodox clergy from Rome and Nice, where Preobrazhensky would also design the Orthodox cathedral, an admiral, the captain and the crew of the Russian battleship “Ossljabja,” then in dry dock in La Spezia, joined the celebrations.

 

Inside the lower church of the Russian Orthodox Church in Florence

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Following my recent tour of this gorgeous landmark in Florence, I posted on the exterior. Now let’s enter the building, starting with the lower church.

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The lower church, dedicated to Saint Nicholas, was consecrated on October 2, 1902 in the presence of the Russian ambassador from Rome, the new rector and many Russian residents.

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The lower church is decorated with sacred images in exquisite triptychs, Byzantine-style icons and tall figures of saints.

When the Russian diplomatic mission opened in Florence in 1815, it also had a chapel that housed a reliquary, which Tsar Alexander I had carried with him on his long military campaigns against Napoleon.

Before this church was built, Florence’s Russian community would congregate in the private chapels of its more illustrious members, such as that of Michail Boutourline, the son of the millionaire bibliophile Count Dimitri Boutourline, or that of the wealthy, aristocratic Demidoff family.  The Demidoff’s donated many iconostases and other objects from San Donato for the new church in 1880.

 

 

but in the end it was richly adorned with marble, frescoes and numerous other important decorative elements too, including the imposing Royal Gates.

True impetus was given to the church-building project when Archipriest Vladimir Levitsky (1840–1923) arrived in town in 1878. Despite many setbacks regarding, for instance, the designation of the land where the church should be built, Levitsky persevered and, in 1890, travelled to St. Petersburg to present the procurator-general of the synod with drawings prepared by the chosen architect, Preobrazhensky. Whilst a decree authorising the construction of the church was issued in May 1891, it took another seven years before the Russian Ministry of Foreign Affairs finally gave its permission.

The Russian Orthodox Church in Florence

I have the good fortune to live 2 blocks from this gorgeous landmark.  It is almost never open for visits, but I got lucky and snagged a ticket for a rare tour recently.

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Known as the Church of the Nativity of Christ and St. Nicholas the Wonderworker (Chiesa della Natività di Nostro Signore Gesù Cristo e San Nicola Taumaturgo), The  Russian Orthodox church is located on via Leone X. Its style is a late 19th and early 20th century imitation of the earlier Naryshkin Baroque.

By the end of the 19th century, there was a small but elite Russian colony in Florence.  Their much desired permanent place of worship came to fruition between 1899 and 1903. It was the first Russian Orthodox church to be built in Italy and was designed by Russian architect Mikhail Preobrazhensky (1854–1930), who had trained at Moscow’s Academy of Arts, and was erected under the supervision of Italian architects Giuseppe Coccini (1840–1900) and Giovanni Paciarelli (1862–1929). The church is a fine combination of Russian and Italian artistry.

 

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The church is topped with one large central onion-shaped dome and four smaller ones, all covered with bright turquoise, green and white scales of majolica (manufactured by the Cantagalli factory of Florence) and topped with gilt crosses and chains. Laid out in the form of a Greek cross, the church grounds are surrounded by an iron railing fence with three monumental gates decorated with the double-headed imperial eagle and Florentine lily forged by the Michelucci foundry of Pistoia.

The church itself, constructed in red brick and grey stone (pietra Serena) from quarries near Fiesole, is decorated with 52 semi-circular or ogival arches known as kokočniki (named after the traditional Russian female headdress) and featuring six winged cherubs, like those of the Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ in St. Petersburg.

Above the doorway, a canopy houses a Venetian-made mosaic icon of “Znamenie,” the mother of God, between stems of flowering lilies. On the north and south sides of the church, two other tabernacles house mosaics of the Peter and Paul.

The splendid wooden entrance door, which came from the private chapel at Villa Demidoff at San Donato, was inspired by Ghiberti’s Gates of Paradise. Depicting 22 scenes from the Old Testament, it had won its creator Rinaldo Barbetti first prize in a national exhibition in Florence in 1861.

 

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True impetus was given to the church-building project when Archipriest Vladimir Levitsky (1840–1923) arrived in Florence in 1878. Despite many setbacks regarding, for instance, the designation of the land where the church should be built, Levitsky persevered and, in 1890, travelled to St. Petersburg to present the procurator-general of the synod with drawings prepared by the chosen architect, Preobrazhensky. A decree authorizing the construction of the church was issued in May 1891, but it took another seven years before the Russian Ministry of Foreign Affairs finally gave its permission.

 

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Typical of Orthodox churches in northern Russia at the time, the Florence church was built on two storeys: the lower church, designed to be warmer in winter, was dedicated to Saint Nicholas, in memory of the Demidoff chapel. The upper church, cooler in summer, was dedicated to the Nativity and features a magnificent marble iconostasis with icons of the patron saints of the imperial family gifted by the assassinated Tsar Nicholas II, a martyr of the Orthodox Church.

 

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Here’s the article from Wikipedia:

 

Nicholas I of Russia’s daughter Grand Duchess Maria Nikolaïevna first had the idea of building a church for Florence’s Russian community in 1873, but it was only six years later that a large gift from prince Paul Pavlovitch Demidoff of San Donato allowed construction to commence. Pietro Berti was initially taken on to design it by archpriest Vladimir Levitsky, then curate of the Orthodox church at the Russian embassy. However, he later switched to the Russian academician Mikhail Preobrazhensky and the Florentine engineer Giuseppe Boccini.

Preobrajensky’s first designs of 1883-85 were too ambitious, so a temporary church was built on a site acquired by the embassy. This became the parish church in 1888. Levitsky eventually raised enough funds to build a permanent structure and in 1897 the Russian ambassador and foreign minister approved plans produced in 1890 by Preobrajensky.

The first stone was laid on 28 October 1899 at a ceremony attended by count Caracciolo di Sarno, prefect of Florence, general Antonio Baldissera, the Russian ambassador Aleksandr Nelidov and consul general Tchelebidaky.

The lower part of the church (dedicated to St Nicholas the Wonderworker) was consecrated on 21 October 1902 and the upper church (dedicated to the Nativity of Christ) was consecrated on 8 November 1903. However, the building as a whole was only fully completed the following year.

After the 1917 Revolution the church in Florence lost Russian state support and in 1921 it became independent from the church back in Russia despite attempts by Soviet diplomats to claim ownership of the building. From 1920 onwards it was under the jurisdiction of Eulogius and in February 1931 it joined the jurisdiction of the Archdiocese of Russian Orthodox churches in Western Europe.

Constantine I of Greece died in exile in Palermo on 11 January 1923 and later that year he was buried in the church, followed in 1926 by his mother queen Olga Constantinovna of Russia and in 1932 by his widow Sophia of Prussia. All three sets of remains were moved to the Tatoi Palace in Greece in November 1936, a year after the restoration of the Greek monarchy.

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To visit the church, it is necessary to make an appointment. For further information call +39 055 477986.

Margaret Bourke-White, a mighty photographer

104191302_3004722992897327_6141170769344365171_nA Mighty Girl

Margaret Bourke-White, one of the pre-eminent photographers of the 20th century, pictured here atop New York City’s Chrysler Building, was born on this day in 1904. A staff photographer for Life magazine since its founding in 1936, one of her photos was featured on the cover of the very first issue of the famous news magazine. For decades, Bourke-White traveled the world photographing key events of her time. Early in her career, she took dramatic pictures of architecture and inside steel mills and factories, pioneering a new style of magnesium flare that allowed her to capture incredible details and earned her national renown. In 1930, she became the first Western photographer allowed to take pictures of Soviet industry during the Soviet five-year plan. Like her contemporary Dorothea Lange, she spent much of the 1930s photographing the downtrodden victims of America’s Great Depression.

When World War II broke out, Bourke-White was the first woman permitted to work in combat zones. She was the only foreign photographer in Moscow when German forces invaded and she captured the bombardment of the Kremlin in a series of dramatic photos. LIFE staff started referring to her as “Maggie the Indestructible” after repeatedly coming under fire and surviving being on a torpedoed ship in the Mediterranean, stranded on an Arctic island, and getting pulled out of Chesapeake Bay after a helicopter crash.

While attached to General Patton’s forces in Germany, she was one of the first photographers to document the horrors of the Buchenwald concentration camp after it was liberated. The following year, she photographed Mahatma Gandhi in India, including taking a now iconic photo of him at his spinning wheel. She is considered “one of the most effective chroniclers” of the violence that erupted during the partition of India and Pakistan. Bourke-White had a reputation for being relentless in her pursuit of the perfect photograph to embody her subject. “I feel that utter truth is essential,” she asserted, “and to get that truth may take a lot of searching and long hours.”

For a historical fiction novel about Margaret Bourke-White, check out “Girl with a Camera: Margaret Bourke-White, Photographer” for ages 12 and up at https://www.amightygirl.com/girl-with-a-camera

She is also one of the women featured in “Reporting Under Fire: 16 Daring Women War Correspondents and Photojournalists” for ages 12 and up: https://www.amightygirl.com/reporting-under-fire

For two children’s books about another famous female photographer, Dorothea Lange, we recommend “Dorothea’s Eyes: Dorothea Lange Photographs the Truth,” for ages 6 to 10 (https://www.amightygirl.com/dorothea-s-eyes) and “Dorothea Lange” for ages 5 to 8 (https://www.amightygirl.com/dorothea-lange-faces-of-depression)

To introduce children and teens to more trailblazing women like Margaret Bourke-White, visit our “Role Models” biography section at http://amgrl.co/2wRJudE

Credit: This photo of Margaret Bourke-White was taken by her dark room assistant Oscar Graubner.

 

This post was taken from A Mighty Girl’s Facebook page.

The Pazzi Chapel at Santa Croce

Part 6 of my recent visit to the magnificent Franciscan basilica of Santa Croce. You can find the other posts here.

Check out Santa Croce from the front.  I wonder how long we can enjoy the city before the tourists return? Not sure, but I am enjoying every second of the city in its current, quieter state.

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When you leave the interior of the church, walking into the cortile, you immediately see the splendid Pazzi Chapel.  The chapel wasn’t accessible yet when I was there, but even a look from the outside is enough to calm the soul.

 

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The Pazzi is seen in the plan below; note the circle in the plan and that’s the chapel. You can see how the green lawn in front sets it off.  Green grass is a rare commodity in Florence.

 

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Santa Croce, Part 5, June 2020

We have finally reached the final stretch of my recent visit to Santa Croce.  For the past few days, I have posted similarly on other parts of the church (you can find the posts here).

First, this tomb commemorating Rossini:

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Next up is one of the masterpieces of Santa Croce.  It is the tomb for Leonardo Bruni, created by Bernardo Rossellino:

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Then, the creme de la creme of sculpture in all of the Renaissance, in my humble opinion.  I adore this monument by Donatello.

 

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Moving further along towards the western end of the side aisle, we arrive at Canova’s tomb to Alfieri. I used to swoon for Canova and Neoclassicism.  I still like this sculptural work.

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And Dante, who was exiled and whose body is preserved in Ravenna.  In the 19th century he was given this cenotaph in the celebrity burial place of Florence, Santa Croce.

 

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I love the way the couple is admiring this monument in these pictures.

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And then, of course, there is the tomb for Michelangelo, created by Vasari.

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And, upon leaving (or entering) the basilica, the font with holy water for the faithful is perhaps the most beautifully wrought example of its kind:

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Niccolini tomb on the western wall, between 2 portals.

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Santa Croce, part 4, June 2020

Following the recent reopening of this Franciscan basilica, I continue with my first visit of the church (for parts 1, 2 and 3 see here).  We begin here at the east end of the basilica, in the chapels to the right of the Peruzzi Chapel:

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Below is a major reliquary.  I find this aspect of the Roman Catholic Church so strange.

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Looking west from the eastern wall, I see this neoclassical tomb.

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Castellani Chapel by Agnolo Gaddi and his workshop:

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Santa Croce, part 3, June 2020

Following the recent reopening of Florence’s major Franciscan basilica, this is part 3 of my first visit of the church (parts 1 and 2 are here and here).  We have reached the altar end of the basilica and here it is in all its glory!

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First, let’s have a detailed look at the altar in front of the apse:

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Also on display near the altar is this incredible Medieval painted altarpiece depicting St. Francis and scenes from his life:

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I will be writing a post on the frescoes in the main chapel behind the altarpiece.  Right now, they have it roped off and I couldn’t get into it to take decent pictures. Looking into the apse area behind the main painted altarpiece:

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OK, so now we move into the big leagues as far as art historian are concerned.  Two of Giotto’s major works are to be found in adjoining chapels in Santa Croce.  They are the Bardi and Peruzzi family chapels. The first one is the Bardi chapel, depicting scenes from the life of St. Francis:

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And now, the Peruzzi Chapel. Sadly, the frescoes are in very bad condition, having been partially painted a secco by Giotto, which means the true fresco technique did not allow the colors to become a part of the wall.  Plus, the frescoes were badly abused over the centuries, sometimes even being covered with white wash.

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Here’s an overall view of the 2 family chapels next to each other on the east end of the church. The Bardi is to the left, under the stained glass window, and the Peruzzi is to the right of it:

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