Donatello’s studio

Let’s say you are one of the major sculptors of Renaissance Italy, and that you live in Florence.  Where would you want to have your studio?

How about, right on the piazza around il duomo?  Non e’ male!

IMG_5545IMG_5544

Screen Shot 2017-09-29 at 1.15.29 PM

Using the map above, you will find the bust of Donatello and the plaque recording his studio location about where the P in “Panini Toscani.”  You can find Panini Toscani words on the upper right side of the map.

Donatello-top

We know some, but not enough, about Donatello (c.1386-1466).  He was apparently born in Florence and grew up with the Martelli family, where it is hypothesized that he received early training from a goldsmith, before training and working in the studio of the famous metalworker and sculptor, Lorenzo Ghiberti.

There is very little known about his life as he was growing up; however, Vasari tells us a few stories which give insight to the generous and proud man that he was. Vasari, in his “Life of the Artists” where he wrote biographies of other artists, enjoys playing with the name Donato which is a variation on the Italian verb “to donate”. Several pieces of Donatello’s artwork were donated to those whom he held in high esteem.

It is possible to see many pieces of Donatello’s works throughout Florence – but be aware that several pieces available on display outdoors are expert copies since the originals have been moved indoors for safe keeping.

The map below shows the spots in Florence where you can find major Donatello works.

Screen Shot 2017-09-29 at 1.26.39 PM

Both the Museo of the Opera del Duomo and the Bargello have extensive works by Donatello. It is so easy to forget that many pieces were made for a specific setting, like the facade of a church or an altar. Once they’re in a museum, even if the work is beautiful on its own, you sense that if viewed in its original position, the work of art would seem different.

If you decide to go outside of Florence and still want to see works he had a part in, here’s a short list to guide you:

PISA

In the San Matteo National Museum in Pisa, you can view the Reliquary of San Rossore, statue, gilded bronze. Via San Matteo in Soarta 1 (Pisa)

LUCCA

At the Villa Guinigi in Lucca, (also known as “pleasure palace” but which is now a national museum), you can admire Madonna and Child relief in tile. Piazza della Magione (ex Manifattura Tabacchi), Lucca

AREZZO

Inside the impressive Cathedral in the center of the historic part of Arezzo, you can admire the baptismal font with a bas-relief marble carving of the Baptism of Christ.

SIENA

Between the Baptistery of San Giovanni, the Cathedral of Siena and the Museum dedicated to the artwork from the Duomo, you will find several works of art dating from the time Donatello worked in Siena.

 

 

Oggi a Firenze; September peaches

I’m so happy I found pickles (not quite dill, not quite sweet, but better than nothing) here.  Of all the things I miss, I never expected it to be dill pickles.  But, not to worry; they’re available!

 

IMG_5441

 

This box on the street spoke to me: do not upset!!

IMG_5529

 

Today’s lesson: how to boss people around (ha ha) with imperativo!

IMG_5532

 

The photo below encapsulates my favorite kind of view in Florence.  I love the bars with every good kind of coffee, pastries, sandwiches and all kinds of treats.  Humble or ritzy, I love them all!

IMG_5535

 

I noticed this spritely gentleman in the Mercato Nuovo. His face looks like JFK.

IMG_5536

 

And finally, today’s fruits at Mercato San Ambrogio.

IMG_5537

I love that Italians sell and buy pesche settembrine.  September peaches.  What could be better than that!

IMG_5538

IMG_5539

IMG_5540

Nota bene.

ROME, ITALY

Santa Maria della Concezione Crypts

 

“Quello che voi siete noi eravamo; quello che noi siamo voi sarete.”

“That which you are, we were; that which we are, you will be.”

ca05

On the Via Veneto in Rome is a small church, Santa Maria della Concezione, attached to which is a crypt of Capuchin monks. The burial ground consists of a few small chapels, the pilasters, arches, and vaults profusely decorated with the bones of four thousand exhumed monks that were brought to the church in 1631.

 

images-3

 

Ah, Roma…

IMG_2848

 

Imagine being three thousand years old. Suppose by some mysterious process you had managed to avoid the limitations of mortality, and year after year you keep going, adding more and more experiences to your life story until you have no choice but to repeat them because you have exhausted all possibilities.

You are the very essence of what it means to be human. You have had more than your share of victories and defeats, triumphs and tragedies, moments of glory and those of abjection, times when you wish you had never been born and times when you want to go on forever. You have loved and lost, have abandoned and been left behind, been rich and poor, skinny and fat, lived high on the hog and been forced to scramble for a few morsels of stale bread. You have seen it all, done it all, regretted it all, and then gone back and done it all again.

You are la città eterna, Rome, the Eternal City.

Epstein, Alan. As the Romans Do: The Delights, Dramas, And Daily Diversio (p. 1). HarperCollins. Kindle Edition.