Architecture
Happy January 6th! aka the Epiphany. Let’s join a Medici celebration already in progress.
Hey there! You!
The handsome, confident guy in the blue cap!
Ciao bello!

Yes! You! I’m talking to you! The guy with the exotic leopard, riding on a horse. Which is not exactly something you see everyday of the week.
Remember me? I’m your biggest fan.

Where are you going? May I go with you?
Oh! how I love this fresco cycle of which the guy in blue is a part: the Magi Chapel inside the Palazzo Medici in Florence! I think these paintings are my very favorite of all time and that’s a big statement from one who loves art as much as I do. I have very many favorites.

I mean, really, what’s not to love?!

Sumptuous colors, incredible textures, fancy people and exotic animals, who cannot love these paintings? The chapel is a dazzling tour de force, alive with color and movement.
But, before I get completely carried away with the sheer joy of these gorgeous images, let me discuss the celebrated moment depicted in the Magi Chapel.
The scenes take their subject matter from an event that happens every year on January 6. This is the date of the Christian festival celebrating the Epiphany, or the day when the wise men beheld the infant Jesus for the first time.

Also called Three Kings’ Day, this Christian feast day celebrates both the literal visit of the Christ child by the Magi but also the symbolic recognition of the physical manifestation of God the Son as human in Jesus Christ. Put another way, Epiphany proclaims the revelation of Jesus to the Gentiles. It’s a very big deal for Christianity, no doubt about it. Like, the cornerstone.
The visit of the Magi, bringing their precious gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh to the Holy Family near Bethlehem after the birth of Jesus was a favorite subject for painters of the Renaissance period in Italy. One reason it was so popular, in my opinion, is that like the moment of the Annunciation in the Christian chronicle, the Adoration of the Magi captures one of the most hopeful moments of the story. There is so much pain and suffering in the Christian narrative, heaven knows it is nice to dwell on the occasions for gladness.
Depicting this scene gives any painter the perfect opportunity to use rich colors and scenery, and exotic luxury in general. Since the 12th century, if not before, Florence has been known for its love for and production of luxury goods whether in wool, silk and dyes; hides and leather working; gold; spices; or painted images. It seems a natural for Gozzoli to depict this happy, rich moment of the Christian story for the private chapel of the pre-eminent Florentine family. And, as it turns out, the Medici family had a particular affinity for the Epiphany feast, as discussed below.
The lively frescoes are complimented in the chapel by the precious marble mosaic work flooring, which is divided by elaborate geometric design in extraordinary materials (porphyries, granites, etc.). The chapel is further enhanced with an astonishing ceiling of inlaid wood, painted and generously gilded, attributed to Pagno di Lapo Portigiano. Finally, the elaborate wooden stalls that furnish the chapel were designed by Giuliano da Sangallo. It is clear that no expense was spared in creating this suite of designs.


To begin our tour of this jewel box chapel fresco cycle, let’s have a look at a couple overall photos. The chapel is not huge but it is pretty hard to photograph as a unity. Nevertheless, let’s take a stab at it.


While not perfect, at least the 2 photos above give you a sense of the magnificent room. It is one of the glories of the Renaissance period and one of the surviving in situ masterpieces of Florence.

The Magi Chapel was begun around 1449-50 and probably finished in 1459 as the private family chapel inside the Palazzo Medici-Riccardi in Florence, designed by famed Renaissance architect Michelozzo di Bartolomeo. The exterior of the palazzo looks like this.

Although there were public churches near the palace, and ones for which the Medici family were patrons, it was customary for wealthy families to have private chapels inside their homes. In fact it is not unusual for any religious household to have a space to celebrate their gods inside their home, no matter how humble.
Three of the chapel’s walls are almost completely covered by this famous fresco cycle by Renaissance master Benozzo Gozzoli (1421-97). Gozzoli painted the cycle between 1459 and 1463. The Journey of the Magi to Bethlehem is depicted in three large large sections, each one showing the procession of one of the three Magi.

Let’s begin with the apse wall: An apse contains the centerpiece of any chapel, as it does here as well. The framed altarpiece in the apse is by Fra Filippo Lippi: The Adoration of the Christ Child. Painted specifically for this location, the original is now in Berlin, while a copy by a follower of Lippi hangs in the Magi Chapel. The copy is attributed to Pseudo Pier Francesco Fiorentino, a follower of Lippi, and the painting was restored in 1992.
The image below is the original Lippi painting.

Here’s how the apse looks from front on. It is designed to be the place where one kneels to pray and worship.


The sides walls of the apse as above are painted with saints and angels in adoration. It is possible to see the influence of his master, Fra Angelico, in Gozzoli’s painting style. These personages are arranged so as to be looking at the Lippi altarpiece, the same as we the viewers do.
This host of angels are gorgeously painted in rich colors with a luxurious application of plenty of gold.




The Medici family were, of course, the de facto rulers of the ostensibly republican Florence, and among the greatest art patrons of any era. Books have been written on their influence on the Renaissance, particularly as patrons of all of the arts.
The family had a particular interest in paintings that depicted the Adoration of the Magi, the moment when the Three Kings, led by a miraculous star, discovered the Christ child. As we have said, this event signified the recognition of the holy infant by the secular world and was celebrated in the feast of the Epiphany (from the Greek, meaning “to manifest”).
We know that the city of Florence had mounted an Epiphany festival on January 6 at least since 1390, the date of the earliest surviving record of it. The elaborate pageant, in which men reenacted the journey of the Magi through the streets of the city, must have looked much like the colorful throng that winds through Gozzoli’s fresco cycle.
By 1417, the festival was directed by a lay confraternity, the Compagnia de’ Magi, with funds donated by the Medici. Male members of the Medici family participated in the procession, which passed in front of their famous palace on Via Largo and began and ended at the church of San Marco, headquarters of the confraternity and an important recipient of Medici munificence. Cosimo de Medici even had an image of the Adoration of the Magi in his private room within the monastery of San Marco.
Incidentally, the Procession of the Magi is enacted in Florence today as well. You can read about it here: http://www.theflorentine.net/articles/article-view.asp?issuetocId=9709
So important was the Epiphany to the Medici family, Lorenzo de Medici even changed his birthdate! He was born on January 1, which already seems pretty auspicious, but he decided to change his birthday to January 6 to coincide with the Epiphany feast date. Here’s a portrait of Lorenzo as an adult. I guess when you are a Medici, an earthly prince, you can change your birthdate as desired. Lorenzo did.
It is worth remembering that January 1 didn’t have the significance in the period that it does today. The Florentine calendar treated March 25 as the first day of a new year. March 25 was the feast day of the Annunciation. So, I guess being born on Jan. 1 wasn’t that big of a whoop to begin with. Why not switch to Jan. 6 if you were Lorenzo? Then maybe everybody would remember your birthday? Am I projecting too much?

There’s no doubt about it: the Medici’s identified with the story of the Adoration of the Magi on the feast of the Epiphany.
Let’s begin our tour of the Gozzoli procession.
Caspar, the youngest Magus, leads the entourage on his beautiful white horse. Caspar is surrounded by a group of young Florentine attendants.
We see Caspar on the left wall here.


Although this figure has sometimes been identified as a portrait of Lorenzo il Magnifico, who was born in 1449 and so was still a boy when the fresco was completed, most scholars believe Lorenzo is more likely included as another figure, as discussed below.
Behind Caspar, to his left, are the contemporary head of the family, Piero the Gouty, wearing a red cap and seated on a white horse and devout family founder Cosimo in a dark blue shirt riding on a humble brown mule.

Here’s a composite photograph of the entire fresco cycle. It is difficult to study the images without being in the chapel itself. We have begun our look at the paintings on the far left and are moving from left to right.

Behind the portraits of Piero and Cosimo, directly to the left of the standing black attendant, are portraits of Sigismondo Pandolfo Malatesta and Galeazzo Maria Sforza, respectively lords of Rimini and Milan, who were often guests of the Medici in Florence. These men are atop the brown and white horses that face the viewer directly.

Behind in the middle ground is a crowded procession of illustrious Florentines, including such as the humanists Marsilio Ficino and the Pulci brothers, the members of the Art Guilds and even the artist, Benozzo, himself. The painter looks out at the viewer and can be recognized for the scroll on his red hat, which reads “Opus Benotii.” It is one of the great artist’s signatures on a work of art in the history of the world.

Picture A above.

The self-portrait of the artist himself is marked #14 on the key below Picture B.
Little Lorenzo il Magnifico is the boy marked #7 ; Lorenzo’s elder brother Giuliano is next to him at #8.
The following picture is Picture B, notated with numbers to identify the various illustrious contemporary personages included in Benozzo’s painting. To see the actual faces, consult Picture A above.

Picture B above.
Key to Picture B:
1 – Cosimo il Vecchio de’ Medici
2 – Piero il Gottoso de’ Medici
3 – Carlo di Cosimo de’ Medici
4 – Galeazzo Maria Sforza
5 – Sigismondo Pandolfo Malatesta
6 – Cosimino di Giovanni di Cosimo de’ Medici (?)
7 – Lorenzo di Piero de’ Medici detto il Magnifico
8 – Giuliano di Piero de’ Medici
9 – Gentile Becchi, precettore di Lorenzo e Giuliano
10 – Giuliano di Piero de’ Medici
11 – allora fattore nella filiale del banco Medici a Roma
12 – Giovanni di Cosimo de’ Medici(?)
13 – Benozzo Gozzoli
14 – Pope Pio II Piccolomini

Picture C above
Key to Picture C:
15 – Benozzo Gozzoli (?),2nd self-portrait
16 – Neri di Gino Capponi (?) (1388-1457):
17 – Bernardo Giugni (?) (+1466)
18 – Francesco Sassetti (?) (1420-1490)
19 – Agnolo Tani (?)
20 – Dietisalvi Neroni (?) (1401-1482)
21 – Roberto di Niccolò Martelli (?) (1408-post 1469)
22 – Benozzo Gozzoli (?), 3rd self portrait
23 – Luca Pitti (?) (1398-1472)
Bearded Balthasar, the middle Magus, rides a white horse on the south wall. He is portrayed with the same facial features as Byzantine emperor John VIII Palaiologos.


Melchior, the oldest Magus, is depicted riding on the west wall.

Traditionally, his features have been read as those of Joseph, Patriarch of Constantinople, who died in Florence; but they could also be those of Sigismund, Holy Roman Emperor, who helped end the Great Schism by convoking the Council of Constance in 1414. Like Cosimo, he is shown as a peacemaker riding on a humble (this time white) mule.
He is preceded by a page in blue with a leopard on his horse – although he leads the entire procession, no real world identity for this handsome, confident figure has ever been established. Ciao bello! You’re the one that I love!


Rather than depict the topography in and around the actual Bethlehem, Gozzoli instead portrayed rich Tuscan landscapes. As the Three Kings approach Bethelem, they are accompanied by their respective entourages as if they are participating in a noble hunting party with falcons and including exotic felines just for a measure of excess.

What a divine way to celebrate the Epiphany! I think I might change my birthday to January 6 myself. I want to be like Lorenzo.
Nah, I can’t do that, even if Lorenzo and I do share the same root word as the stem of our first (Christian) names.*
I can never be a Medici, as much as I might wish it. Maybe in my next life.
**LAURA f Feminine form of the Late Latin name Laurus, which meant “laurel”. This meaning was favourable, since in ancient Rome the leaves of laurel trees were used to create victors’ garlands. It was also the name of the subject of poems by the 14th-century Italian poet Petrarch. As an English name, Laura has been used since the 13th century. LAURETTA f
Italian diminutive of LAURA http://www.behindthename.com/names/usage/italian/2
LORENZO m Italian, Spanish
Italian and Spanish form of Laurentius (see LAURENCE (1)). Lorenzo de’ Medici, known as the Magnificent, was a ruler of Florence during the Renaissance. He was also a great patron of the arts who employed Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Botticelli and other famous artists. http://www.behindthename.com/names/usage/italian/2
Recipe for magic…
Mix one part Pucci and one part antique landmark and what do you get? A moment of magic.
Step 1. Take a famous old Italian monument (Medieval is the best flavor if you can get it. It is hard to come by, so just do the best you can):
For the purpose of our post today, we will start with the Baptistery in Florence. It is the striped building in the front of this 3 part complex, which includes the Cathedral (il duomo), the campanile (belltower), and the octagonal Baptistery.
Step 2. Add a colorful vintage design from a later master, say something from the 20th century. The Marquise Emilio Pucci will do nicely for our demonstration. 
We’ll use this Pucci scarf today, which was created in 1957 with the Florence Baptistery as its central motif. Pucci created a series of silk scarves using the most famous world cities as inspiration. He was a Florentine, so it is quite interesting that, of all the structures in his native city, he chose the Baptistery above all others as his iconic symbol of his town.
Step 3. Put the ingredients into a large vessel of some sort, kind of like a giant cocktail shaker, while wearing a pair of vintage Pucci capri pants and a top fashioned from the same silk as the scarf you are shaking up, as seen above.
This next step is important to the success of your final product: Be sure to notice your background while you are mixing things up. You see one of your ancestors standing in front of the Baptistry and holding the scarf. This will get you in the right frame of mind to enjoy your dressed up monument.
Step 4. Shake, shake, shake. And eccola!
Step 5. Enjoy! You’ve got yourself a dressed up monument! A new masterpiece! You have breathed new life into an old item. Think of it as re-purposing on a grand scale. What was old is new again. You can see something old with new eyes. Whatever saying floats your boat.
Step 6. Stand back and look at your newly finished monument.
Be brave, because change can be hard…you can bet that not everybody will embrace it…
Step 7. Move all around your monument to see it from every imaginable angle…
And in every kind of weather condition…

You want to see it on sunny days…
See how it shines!
And on cloudy days:
And even in the rain:
Step 8. Look, look, look. Looking can be hard work, but not when you have something this fun to gaze at. Look at your masterpiece at night:
And try to catch it with the moon in the sky…

Step 9. Then, look at it again in the sunshine, because…
Now you see it…
And now you don’t.
Poof! The cover is gone and you are back to your old monument. But, now you will have a better appreciation for it.
Ha ha. If you’re wondering what is up with all of this, it is very simple to explain.
Last June 17-20, for only 3 days, the iconic Baptistery in Florence was decorated with a reproduction of Pucci’s Battistero scarf, designed in 1957. Pucci’s scarf interprets an aerial view of Battistero San Giovanni in the brilliant hues of a Mediterranean landscape, using vibrant lemon yellow, orange, fuchsia and the emblematic Emilio pink. Never before had the Baptistery been so artistically reinterpreted, as it was for three days last June, in canvas printed with a Pucci design.
The Apse side of the Baptistery was clad in a scale reproduction of the original Battistero scarf design as a whole, having been reproduced and framed in large scale in its entirety.

The other seven sides of the octagonal building were covered in almost 2.000 square-meters of canvas, printed in a to-scale rendering of the famous Pucci design. Faithfully following the contours of the building, it was completely enveloped in rich and loud splashes of Pucci line and color.
The City of Florence was delighted to drape its iconic monument with a design by the famous Italian fashion House of Emilio Pucci, for the city has been celebrating this year the 60th anniversary of the Center of Florence for Italian Fashion. Several fashion labels, including Gucci, Ferragamo, and Cavalli also participated in the festival to help celebrate their Florentine heritage as a part of the Firenze Hometown of Fashion initiative. Palazzo Pucci opened its archives during the celebration as well and fifty photos from editorials shot by Vogue Italia were also on display in the city.
Pucci’s gigantic scarf building covering was conceived by Pitti Imagine, the branch of the Center of Florence for Italian Fashion that creates fashion events.
Fans could follow the unveiling of the Baptistery’s new look using the hashtag #MonumentalPucci on social networks. While the display was being put up, Pucci posted teasers of the finished product. This tag was also used to share archival images of the house’s fashions over the years.
The Baptistery is currently being restored and Pucci, which is part of the LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton) group, will substantially contribute financially to the restoration on the octagonal monument, in the same way that other design-related companies are supporting to the care and upkeep of the many of Italy’s monuments.

A detail of the scarf designed by Emilio Pucci in 1957
This temporary new landmark of the Baptistery wrapped in a Pucci design captured the attention of every tourist, who were seen gawking at and taking selfies in front of the monument. The whole atmosphere was a bit surreal. Lucky were all those who managed to see Florence with its Baptistery “dressed” in Pucci—such moments go down in the history of fashion and stay there forever.
Even if you weren’t one of the lucky ones who saw the dressed up monument in the flesh, you can experience a sense of it in these cool videos.
The look of heaven, graffitti and all
First impressions are everything.
When I landed at the Delhi airport last January, I was instantly ready to love with India!
My feeling was based simply upon this stunning first impression of contemporary art which represents timeless Indian culture in a simple, modern fashion.
First impressions ARE everything!
Nameste! See more after the jump.
I knew I had come to the right place! I was jet-lagged into next week, but I noticed this artwork! When a work of art can speak to me through the fog of severe jet-lag, I know I’ve hit the motherlode. India did not disappoint!
Arriving at the Indira Gandhi International Airport’s brand-new Terminal 3, filled me with a sense of awe. The incredible visual experience of this series of giant gesticulating hands, jutting from a wall of what look like copper discs, made me stop in my tracks in wonder. I like anything that has that power. It’s why I travel. It’s why I read. It’s why I study art and culture. It’s why I live.
Jaipur-based artist, Ayush Kasliwal, was commissioned to produce these giant, expressive hands. The builders of the new concourse of the truly modern airport were keen to give the terminal an Indian context, to infuse it with Indian values. The idea of the hands emerged as the winning concept, for all forms of Indian classical dance use hand gestures called mudras. Thus, mudras are a both a distinctly Indian and common vocabulary. The writer of this blog heartily adds her compliments to the designers. It really works!
If you’d like to know more about this stunning installation, please go to
Click to access DIALmudras.pdf
and
http://archive.indianexpress.com/news/friendly-gestures/638563/0
Let’s talk Taj. Part 1.
The Taj Mahal.
Just the mention of the name brings forth notions of exotic, white-marbled opulence. The name means “crown of palaces” in Arabic and Persian, and most people know there is a story of romance behind the structure.
The Taj was built in the 17th century by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, seen here standing on the dome of the world:
in memory of his third wife, the Persian princess known as Mumtaz Mahal, who died while giving birth to their 14th child. OMG, poor thing. Here she is:
The Taj is universally recognized as the jewel of Muslim art in India and one of the great masterpieces of the world heritage. It is one of the seven wonders of the world.
The complex of buildings that creates the vast Taj Mahal is the finest extant example of Mughal architecture, a style that combines elements from Islamic, Persian, Ottoman Turkish, and Indian architectural styles.
While the white domed mausoleum is the most familiar component of the Taj Mahal, it is actually an integrated complex of structures as seen in the following CAD design.
Here’s another computerized representation of the complex.
Thousands of artisans were employed to create the vast complex. Typically, Indian architecture used red sandstone as a primary building material, but the Emperor had the Taj constructed in white Indian marble inlaid with precious and semi-precious stones.
The marble dome that surmounts the tomb is the most spectacular feature, and is decorated with a lotus design, which accentuates its height.
The dome and chattris (smaller domed kiosks on the sides) are topped by a gilded finial, which mixes traditional Persian and Hindustani decorative elements.
The finial is topped by a moon, a typical Islamic motif whose horns point upward towards the heavens. When you add the horns of the moon and the finial point of the main spire, you obtain a trident shape, which may be a reference to the traditional Hindu symbols of Shiva.
Four minarets frame the tomb, one at each corner of the supporting plinth. The minarets, which are each 130 feet tall, are working minarets used by the muezzin to call the Islamic faithful to prayer.
Each minaret is effectively divided into three equal parts by two working balconies that ring the tower. At the top of the tower is a final balcony surmounted by a chattri that mirrors the design of those on the tomb.
The main chamber houses the false sarcophagi of both the princess Mumtaz Mahal, and for her husband, Shah Jahan; their actual graves are at a lower level. I will be showing the interior in Part 3 of these blogs on the Taj. Stay tuned.
I included many shots of the inlay at the Taj in my post entitled “This is India 4. Let’s look at inlaid tiles and other patterns.” Please have a look at that post for more Taj details. Thanks!
In the meantime, feast your eyes on some more views of the exterior. It is a very photogenic structure to say the least!
Gorgeous, no?
















































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