Summer reading.

I know, the calendar hasn’t officially cleared summer for take off.  But, as I write this in Florence on Saturday evening at 6:30 p.m., the temperature is 91 degrees F.  Summer has arrived, secondo me. If it gets much hotter than this, I may have to move way way up north to Scotland.

Keeping cool for me requires a lot of good reading material.  My latest enjoyment has been found in this great non-fiction tome, filled with art intrigue, a connection between Italy and the US, and historical context of the 1960s and 1970s.  A fun book to read, and not just for art historians, I promise!

 

51dYJhPEQ5L._AC_US218_

 

The Boston Raphael: A Mysterious Painting, an Embattled Museum in an Era of Change & A Daughter’s Search for the Truth by Belinda Rathbone

Great summer reading.

Terre cotte di Impruneta, the world’s finest

Let’s start with a picture that summarizes Italian summer to me:

IMG_3510

I love Italian geraniums!

But, I digressed!

IMG_3551

Okay, so today a friend and I took a beautiful little jaunt through warm and very green Chianti, just outside of Florence to the little village of Impruneta. Impruneta is famed for its proprietorial production of what may well be the world’s finest quality terre cotte.  To me, it is just that.

And the most beautiful.

IMG_3528

 

It is said that the world’s finest terracotta planters come from Impruneta, this small village nestled in the Tuscan hills a few kilometers from Florence, Italy.  Blessed with land that is naturally rich in iron, copper, calcium, and aluminum, the town has been well known for its exceptional quality terracotta and craftsmanship for centuries. Hard gray earth is mined from the surrounding hills, ground to a powder, and mixed with water to make this coarse bodied clay. It develops its renowned pale, terracotta color after the firing process and is able to withstand extreme temperatures.  Terracotta from Impruneta is frost resistant to -22°F. This, along with the hand of a skilled artisan makes the Impruneta collection the absolute best available.

IMG_3550

Classic Impruneta Italian terra cotta planters have held their aesthetic value for generations and aren’t showing any signs of slowing down.

DSC_0171If the term terracotta conjures up images of stacks of dusty orange common clay nursery pots, you’ve probably never experienced the subdued beauty of Italian terracotta from the regions of Impruneta or Siena.

 

 

The rich earth in these beautiful Italian towns near Florence boasts an extremely high mineral content which is exceptionally high in iron, calcium, aluminum and copper.  The Impruneta clay is so revered that only seven potters are licensed by the Italian government to use the name on their wares.

The first factor is the type of clay that is used. Impruneta clay is found only by the river Arno near Florence and has been useDSC_0156d to make pottery for at least the last ten centuries.

In addition to the minerals, this gray clay contains particles of sandstone which give it a special strength and texture. This robust mixture makes the resulting pottery incredibly strong in the same way that adding gravel to a concrete mix binds it together to create a more durable finished product.

The pottery is then fired at over 1000 degrees for 36 hours and cooled in the kiln for another 70 hours (terra cotta =  cooked earth). The result is a beautiful soft rosy color not found anywhere else in the world.

The second factor is how the Impruneta pots are created.  There are several techniques employed, all of them labor-intensive.   One method is to hand-apply the clay, pounding it over an inverted form which shapes the clay to the desired form and size. This is then smoothed and decorated.

Another method is to hand-pack the clay into plaster cases, a technique perfected hundreds of years ago.

Even larger pots are often made free-form entirely by hand.  After the bowl or basin of the pot is created, the rim is applied by hand.

It’s easy to tell a handmade pot–when you run your haDSC_0159nd under the rim there is a deep relief where you can fit your fingers.  Machine-made or cast-formed pots have a flat, less dimensional rim with no overhang.

 

When the artist is satisfied with the
appearance of the pot, it is then fired as previously mentioned.  This results in an extremely strong pot with great structural integrity.  Designs are actually molded into the pot and become an integral part of the structure instead of being “applied” as an afterthought.

Another great way to identify one of these Tuscan masterpieces is by giving it a sharp rap with your knuckles.  The resulting clear, sharp peal of a bell signifies that you indeed are in the presence of one of these amazing pots – high fired with no cracks.

Impruneta terracotta ornaments have classic good looks that9390-1 serve as the perfect counterpoint to a wide variety of flowers and foliage.  Florentine gardens are replete with Imprunetta pottery, as is the Vatican.  In the USA, the Biltmore Estate has several large Impruneta pots that have graced their gardens since the 1800s.

Imagine how tough it was to import these from Italy more than 200 years ago.   These are some rugged beauties that were able to survive that journey.

Another spot in the US in which you may have seen Impruneta terracotta is at the New York Botanical Gardens.  They chose large classic rolled rim pots to showcase their gorgeous specimens of lemon trees.

These planters will last more than a lifetime with proper care.  They’re extremely hardy and can be left outside to weather in areas where frost is expected (but nothing lower) without fear, but it is  imperative to make sure the pot is lifted off the ground and that the drainage hole is unobstructed so water has the ability to drain freely.

clay_boyThe use of clay to produce both models and finished sculpture has been important to Italian artists such as Donatello and Luca della Robbia since the early 15th century. They took advantage of the special clay found in the area and consequently helped make Florence an important center for Italian art. Still today you occasionally find beautiful, classical statues with graceful figures and lovely faces sculpted in the distinctive rose pink clay of Impruneta.

 

 

 

 

IMG_3554

 

Before I talk about the two pottery businesses I visited today, let me note the use of terra cotta in Impruneta.  It’s everywhere!  House number plates are terra cotta.  Mail boxes are terra cotta. Door bells are surrounded by terra cotta plates.  Local altars are terra cotta.

sIMG_3505IMG_3506IMG_3507

Of course window gardens, even those of cactus, are in terra cotta containers.

 

IMG_3508

Many homes enjoy a terra cotta lion guarding the gate.

IMG_3509

Sidewalks, stair treads, balustrades are all of terra cotta.

 

Close to the center of the sweet little village are two businesses within a easy walk. The first we visited was Corsiani Impruneta Terrecotte srcs on Via di Cappello.  You can visit this business virtually on their websites:  www.terrecottecorsiani.it and www.imprunetaterrecotte.it  .

IMG_3511

 

The proprietor could not have been nicer or more welcoming to us, showing us a large hand-formed vessel he was making as well as the furnace in which the pots are fired.

 

 

 

 

Here’s a look at Corsiani’s vast array of products.

IMG_3512IMG_3514IMG_3516IMG_3517IMG_3518

 

We next walked to another pottery: Antica Furnace Mariani M.I.T.A.L., sas, which you can also visit virtually at www.terrecottemital.it  .

IMG_3527

 

Another vast yard, full of terra cotta treasures, awaits your visit!  But first, a hydrangea growing in a large vessel.

IMG_3528IMG_3536IMG_3547IMG_3548IMG_3550IMG_3551

The containers produced by this pottery seem infinite, though of course I exaggerate.  I think you can get a sense of why: as a gardener and an art historian, I was almost hyperventilating from the choices available here!

IMG_3549

 

In addition to garden vessels, this pottery also makes fabulous terra cotta reproductions of some famous art works.

IMG_3562IMG_3561

IMG_3566IMG_3568IMG_3570IMG_3571IMG_3572IMG_3573IMG_3575IMG_3576IMG_3577IMG_3578IMG_3579IMG_3595

 

A likeness of Cosimo I among the oleander blossoms.

IMG_3603IMG_3606IMG_3607IMG_3608IMG_3609IMG_3611

 

There is literally something for everyone at this pottery.

My favorite items were some reproductions of famous artworks in nearby Florence:

Dontatello’s David:

IMG_3612

 

Luca della Robbia:

IMG_3627IMG_3624

 

Desiderio di Settignano:

IMG_3629

 

And other Florentine notables:

IMG_3591IMG_3625IMG_3628

 

And then there was the kitch!  The human-sized Eiffel Tower!

IMG_3584IMG_3587

 

The human-sized Leaning Tower of Pisa:

IMG_3558IMG_3586

 

Venice’s Rialto Bridge:

IMG_3569

 

And, if you are going to do a bridge, you’ve got to do the Ponte Vecchio!  Certo!

IMG_3585

 

Tremendously practical items were made of terra cotta, as in this downspout:

IMG_3581

 

And unusual decorative items such as a fireplace surround, in terra cotta of course:

IMG_3576

 

We had time to return to the center of the sweet, small piazza where we had a nice pranzo while gazing at the town’s main church.

 

 

 

Villa i Tatti; inside the palazzo and library

IMG_3417

I’m a rule breaker and a rebel.

The following pictures were not allowed.

I’m not sorry. :-)

 

Somehow I feel Bernard Berenson would understand me.  I mean, he took a few liberties (ahem) in his gathering and collecting of Italian paintings.  Ahem.

If the Villa would like to lock me up for having snapped these pictures (with no flash), I’d be happy to do time at the Villa.  Just let me know.  I’ll be right over to start my incarceration.

 

IMG_3418

IMG_3419

IMG_3420

IMG_3421

IMG_3422

IMG_3423

IMG_3424

IMG_3425

 

IMG_3426

IMG_3427

IMG_3428

IMG_3429

IMG_3430

IMG_3431

IMG_3432

IMG_3433

IMG_3434

IMG_3435

IMG_3436

IMG_3437

IMG_3438

IMG_3439

IMG_3440

IMG_3441

IMG_3442

IMG_3443

IMG_3444

IMG_3445

IMG_3446

IMG_3447

IMG_3448

IMG_3449

IMG_3450

Gallery Hotel Art, Firenze

This hotel is my across the street neighbor.  Rough hood.

IMG_3073

 

Gallery Hotel Art, owned by the Ferragamo family.  I repeat, it’s a really rough hood.  The bar in the hotel is famous for its aperitivo, with hand-crafted cocktails.  But what I really like about the hotel is the fact that they boast some interesting exterior art installations.

The day I moved into my new apartment, a week ago, the hotel installed the latest installation, which is a line of decorated Vespa shells, snaking up the side of the building.

18527950_10155501569814560_3053199270488341804_n18520003_10155501569404560_8145914475020734304_n

 

A few Vespas are sometimes on display in the beautiful little piazza I share with the hotel.

18555906_10155501569414560_2233631312163862501_n

But, for me, the best part is my unique view of the hotel from my windows.

IMG_3073

IMG_3074

IMG_3072

 

If you want more info, see here:

https://www.vanityfair.it/show/agenda/2017/05/04/warhol-e-dauria-firenze

Isola Tiberino, Roma

If you like to stroll along the banks of the Tiber River, as I do when the weather is fine, you’ll eventually encounter the small river island known as Isola Tiberino.

800px-Tiber_island_panorama

The Tiber Island is the only island in the southern bend of the Tiber river. The purposely boat-shaped island is approximately 270 metres (890 feet) long and 67 metres (220 feet) wide.  It is  and has been connected with bridges to both sides of the river since antiquity.

Screen Shot 2017-05-10 at 12.13.08 PM.png

In antiquity, an ancient temple of Asclepius, the Greek god of medicine and healing, was built on the island.

Ancient sources say there was a great plague in Rome in 293 BC and the Senate consulted the Sibyl who instructed them to build a temple to Aesculapius. The Senate sent a delegation to Epidauros to obtain a statue of the deity. As instructed, the delegation went on board a ship to sail out and obtain a statue.

Screen Shot 2017-05-10 at 12.39.49 PM.png

They obtained a snake from a temple and put it on the ship. It immediately curled itself around the ship’s mast, which was deemed as a good sign by them. Upon their return up the Tiber river, the snake is said to have slithered off the ship and swam onto the island. They believed that this was a sign from Aesculapius, a sign which meant that he wanted his temple to be built on that island.

This location may have been chosen for the Aesculapius Temple because it was separate from the rest of the city, which could help protect whoever was there from plague and illnesses.

 

250px-Tiber_Island

 

250px-Cinema_ile_Tiberine_Rome

 

250px-Tiber.island.church.rome.arp

The island eventually became so identified with that temple, that it was modeled to resemble a ship as a reminder of how it came to be. The Romans added travertine facing by the banks to resemble a ship’s prow and stern, and erected an obelisk in the middle to symbolizing the vessel’s mast. Walls were put around the island, and it came to resemble a Roman ship. Faint vestiges of Aesculapius’ rod with an entwining snake are still visible on the “prow”.

In 998 San Bartolomeo all’Isola (with a different original name) was built over the Aesculapius temple’s ruins on the eastern side (downstream end) of the island.

 

IMG_2876

 

The island is still considered a place of healing because a hospital, founded in 1584, was built on the island and is still operating. It is staffed by the Hospitaller Order of St. John of God or “Fatebenefratelli”. The hospital was built on the western half of the island.

IMG_2877

IMG_2884

 

Interior ceiling and apse of the Basilica di San Bartolomeo:

IMG_2880IMG_2881

 

Today the island is a popular place to stroll on a fine day, to dine in the couple of trattorie, or to have an ice cream.  African hawkers of knock-off goods line the 2 bridges, selling their wares until officials come along.

IMG_2883

2200 year old Roman temple, Hercules Olivarius

There’s a beautiful, small, round Roman temple not far from the banks of the Tiber River that seems to get no love.
IMG_2885
Screen Shot 2017-05-09 at 7.54.56 PM.png
But, I love it!  I took a long walk today along the Rome side of the Tiber, under the beautiful plane trees.  The street looks like this:
IMG_2874
The temple I love is the Temple of Hercules the Victor (Italian: Tempio di Ercole Vincitore). It dates to the later 2nd century BC, consisting of a circular cella within a concentric ring of twenty Corinthian columns. These elements supported an architrave, which has disappeared.
The original wall of the cella, built of travertine and marble blocks. The temple is the earliest surviving marble building in Rome.
IMG_2887
IMG_2888
IMG_2889
IMG_2890
IMG_2891