Quattrocento Fiorenza

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With fifty thousand people, Florence must have been an impressive sight for a young man like Leonardo arriving from Vinci. “Nothing more beautiful or more splendid than Florence can be found anywhere in the world,” the scholar Leonardo Bruni had declared in about 1402. Fifty years later, a Florentine merchant, taking stock of his hometown, believed it even more resplendent than in Bruni’s day, with beautiful new churches, hospitals, and palaces, and with prosperous citizens sauntering through the streets in “expensive and elegant clothing.” Florence at this time could boast fifty-four dealers in precious stones, seventy-four goldsmith shops, and eighty-three silk-weaving firms. There was, the merchant acknowledged, a further attraction: the astonishing proliferation of Florence’s architects, sculptors, and painters.  Highly conspicuous by the time Leonardo arrived in Florence were frescoes, statues, and buildings by men like Giotto, Brunelleschi, Masaccio, Donatello, and Lorenzo Ghiberti.

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King, Ross (2012-10-30). Leonardo and the Last Supper (pp. 23-24). Bloomsbury Publishing. Kindle Edition.

Palazzo Vecchio, Firenze: an idiosyncratic tour

By the Middle Ages, the Florentine republic was ruled by a council, known as the signoria. The signoria was chosen by the gonfaloniere (titular ruler of the city), who was elected every two months by Florentine guild members.  Below is the robe and shoes typically worn by the counsil members.

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The magnificent Salone dei Cinquecento.  Absolutely amazing!

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My tour group got to climb into the rafters over the main Salone and marveled not only at the engineering feat, but the fact that most of these timbers were placed in the 14th century.  Oh, what this lumber has endured–manmade and natural.

 

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Dante’s death mask below.

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The painted ceiling of the room in which the Dante mask is stored.

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Orsanmichele, Florence. The real deal.

I posted an appetizer for this lovely, historic masterpiece in Florence yesterday.  Here’s the real entry.

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Inside the church is Andrea Orcagna’s bejeweled Gothic Tabernacle (1355-59) encasing a repainting by Bernardo Daddi’s of an older icon of the Madonna and Child.

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The ceiling paintings of the central square interior on the ground floor.  This special building in Florence was initially a palazzo, which became the city’s main granary, and later was transformed into this gorgeous church.  It is about halfway between the Duomo and the Palazzo Vecchio, occupying a central place in the city and religious spheres of Florence.

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Stained glass doesn’t play a prominent role in Florentine medieval architecture, as it does, for example in France.  Yet Orscanmichele has some gorgeous stained glass.

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Orcagna’s frame surrounding the beautiful  painting is breathtaking in its beauty.

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This opening shown below  is place in the building from which the grain was distributed.

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For art historians, Orsanmichele means sculpture.  Some of the finest works of late Gothic through Renaissance works were created for this edifice, and remain within its walls.

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Verrochio’s masterpiece, Christ with Doubting Thomas, can be appreciated up close, as can all of the sculptural works created for the building’s exterior niches.

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The other works are equally accessible and lovely.

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The hike to the 3rd floor is only for the fit.  But, what a payoff!  The vistas of surrounding Florence will take your breath away as well.  Only in a good way.

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Find the days the church is open and by any means necessary--vai!

Enter the past: the oldest church in Florence: Santi Apostoli

I recently had the good fortune to find this old church in Florence (among the oldest) Santi Apostoli, open.  Here are my photos of the inside and outside of this lovely, antique space.

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Santi Apostoli sits on the Piazza del Limbo, which as the sign below says, was “Gia Piazza di Apostoli” or formerly the Piazza di Apostoli.

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And in this piazza, as in so many places throughout Florence, there is a sign showing how high the water reached during the flood of November 1966.  With the water at this height, most of Santi Apostoli would have been under water.

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