Les Marais, part 3: Jardin Saint-Gilles-Grand-Veneur-Pauline-Roland

Le Mairie de Paris is full of fascinating things!  I’ve already posted twice about Les Marais and there is still more to discuss.

One the 9 Rue du Grand Veneur is located another small, lovely garden: the Jardin Saint-Gilles-Grand-Veneur-Pauline-Roland. The name is a homage, in part, “ à Pauline Roland (1805-1852), une féministe socialiste française.”

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Tucked away within a maze of narrow streets, far from the hustle and bustle of modern Paris, is this little known, rarely visited, but utterly charming haven of peace – the Jardin Saint-Gilles-Grand-Veneur, with its magnificent view of the façade of the Hôtel du Grand Veneur townhouse. Visitors come here is for some peace and quiet, or to settle down on the stone benches in the lovely rose arbor for some calm.

The mansion surrounding the small garden is the Hôtel du Grand Veneur,  a prestigious 17th-century mansion in Le Marais. Listed in the Register of Historic Monuments since 1925, the building consists of three buildings forming a U around a large paved courtyard, in which is located the garden.

In 1733, Vincent Hennequin who was the captain who organized the king’s hunts, purchased the mansion. He had many hunt-related images carved and applied to the decorations of the Hôtel.

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The hotel was confiscated during the French Revolution; it was then purchased in 1823 by the Franciscan ladies of St. Elisabeth who occupied it until 1901.

apmh00004609 Late 19th century photo of exterior

 

As impressive as this mansion is, it was the garden that drew me in.

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And, here it is!  Remember it was a cold December morning I paid my visit, but the garden had its charms even then.

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I wasn’t the only person drawn to this fine garden that day.  I saw a fashion photography shoot happening in the courtyard.

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Are you “bobo” in French?

We’re all familiar with these NYC acronyms:

SoHo
NoHo
Nolita
NoMad
Tribeca
Dumbo

But do you know “bobo” in Paris?

This witty fusion of the words bourgeois and bohème to bobo refers to the mélange of  traditionally polarized social groups. The term has penetrated the vocabulary of even the most reclusive Parisian.

If you’re Parisian and you are one part conservative bourgeoisie, one part young, progressive bohemian, you might just be bobo.

Fashion shoot in Paris

What a fun afternoon!  I was enjoying a guided tour through a private garden in the center of old Paris and, all of a sudden, I noticed a fashion model and photographer.  There were working hard and took lots of photos.  The model was beautiful, as you would expect!

And oh, p.s., I saw the same model in the New York Times today, modeling for Valentino.

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Oh, and I might add, it was cold today!  About 20 degrees Fahrenheit.  The model was not dressed in warm clothes, but rather a top and mini skirt, tights and boots and a pretty, but not warm, coat.

 

You can well imagine how beautiful the architecture of this small square is! Obviously its a perfect backdrop for selling fashion!

La belle Paris!

It’s been a few years since I’ve been in this elegant beautiful capital and I’ve missed her! Just arrived last night and spent a fun day revisiting old haunts.  More to come!

Green is the color of the best shots of the day:

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So, what’s new in gay Paree?

Well, the I.M. Pei Louvre Pyramid has a gold throne floating inside:

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It’s the Throne by Kohei Nawa, exhibited from July 2018 – January 14, 2019.

A monumental floating throne by the sculptor Kohei Nawa. As part of “Japonismes 2018: Souls in Resonance,” the pyramid of the Louvre will house a monumental sculpture by Kohei Nawa, beginning in the month of July 2018 and running through 14 January 2019.  The work, inspired by the shapes and origins of the chariots used in the Orient during religious festivals, is a combination of the art of gold leaf gilding, which dates back to Ancient Egypt, and the latest 3D modeling techniques.

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This 10.4 meter-high monumental sculpture will float in the middle of the Louvre Pyramid for six months, in order to question the notions of power and authority that have been perpetuated in the past, and to question the future that awaits us.

Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville; no other city hall ever looked so good! I am still a sucker for great Neoclassical sculpture:

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Strolling through the city I saw this fashion photo in a vitrine; the best way to ride a horse is in your pink silk taffeta ballgown!  I wish I had known that growing up on the back of my horse!

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Not far from city hall I wandered by Place Louis Aragon.

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I was intrigued by the inscribed lines speaking of a tranquil island.

Connaissez-vous l’île
Au cœur de la ville
Où tout est tranquille
Éternellement

 

In English:

Do you know the island

In the heart of the city

Where everything is quiet

Eternally

I looked Louis Aragon up when I got back to my hotel:  Louis Aragon (1897 – 1982) was a French poet and one of the leading voices of the surrealist movement in France. Place Louis Aragon is located at the tip of Ile Saint-Louis, near Quai de Bourbon, with amazing views of the cathedral of Notre Dame and the Seine This small but extraordinarily located square is close to the apartment of Aurelian, where in Aragon’s novel of the same name the hero lived.

 

 

The apse end of Notre Dame begins to beckon:

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I spy the famed flying buttresses!

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Once a garden designer, always a garden designer.  I was interested to see that the gardeners here had tied up the ornamental grass plants.  That must mean that the grasses don’t winter kill in Paris (they do in Colorado where my garden is), so they want to maintain the foliage.  Who knew?!

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Walking along the Seine and rounding Notre Dame from the back to the front, I saw other gardens with roughly-cut and crudely crafted structures for plants to climb. These came as a surprise in Paris, where everything is so formal and structured.

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I’m going to post the next few pix of Notre Dame in silence.  This beautiful, iconic building needs nothing from me:

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Milano, dicembre 2018; ready for Christmas

Arrived in Milan from Florence and admired the fabulous Milanese train station.  It always awes me.

It was fun to see American Tomaso Edison inscribed as one of the world’s great minds.

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No time to linger: places to see, people to avoid (crowds that is!). Here’s the archway leading to the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuel; I’ll be back to admire the Christmas decorations when the sun sets.  See below.

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A quick glance of our first stop: il Duomo. We bought our tickets and got in line to wait for our turn to enter the cathedral and then climb to the roof.

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I’ll talk about the duomo in a separate post, coming soon.

So, the duomo took up the entire afternoon and the sun set.  Back into the Galleria to admire the amazing Christmas decorations.

 

 

 

Absolutely spectacular! Milan knows how to play up its strong points!

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Milano plays host to one of the great Florentine artists: Leonardo da Vinci.

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La Scala is nearby to add its gravitas:

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The downtown streets of Milan have a modern Christmas vibe:

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Back inside the Galleria, we approach the Dolce and Gabbana store, all lit up and no place to go.  D&G has no need to go anyplace: the crowds throng to it!

 

 

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You can see D & G’s neon sign at the end of these over-the-top decorations.

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See it?

And that’s how Milano preps for Xmas!