Fast food in Florence.

I draw the line when it comes to giving free advertisement to this particular American fast food chain.  Suffice it to say, it can be found in Italy, a lot (too much).

But, I will admit, I kinda get a kick out of this particular store of the chain, located near the train station in Florence.  For example, I love the fact you can order and pay at a kiosk and then simply pick up your order at the counter:

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I love the fact you can order a bun filled with Nutella at this all-American fast food joint.  I promise you that this item is not available in the USA, right “Sweety?” (It should be “sweetie” btw.)

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And it looks like this, which is very unappetizing to me!

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But, I love the fact that this joint has an espresso bar.  If only, back in America!

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Trattoria Cammillo

I’ve had the great pleasure of dining at Cammillo, the trattoria just south of the Ponte Santa Trinita, in Florence pretty much every time I’ve been in the city since my first trip to Italy in 1979.

It has never disappointed, not once.  My first excursion there was with a date who wanted to impress, and impress he did.  I never dine there without thinking of Eli.  He was very gallant.

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I love the location, the ambience and the history behind the restaurant almost as much as the food. The current owner’s grandfather, Camillo, opened the trattoria in 1945.  When the first sign he ordered for his new restaurant arrived with his name misspelled, he couldn’t afford a new sign, so he kept it.

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Under this misspelled sign, he blended Bolognese and Tuscan dishes for the construction crews who were at work rebuilding the bridges and palaces destroyed by the Nazis at the end of the war.  Today the family farm in Tuscany provides the trattoria with many of the fresh ingredients used to prepare the dishes served.

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Cammillo was where I first tasted bistecca fiorentina, grilled to absolute perfection and topped with freshly squeezed lemon juice.  Once you try it, you can never go back!

 

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It seems I’m not the only one who loves Cammillo. Mimi Sheraton, writer for the New York Times, wrote that she dined at Cammillo each time she visited Florence from 1953.  Who can blame her?
Trattoria Cammillo
Borgo S. Jacopo 57/r
tel. 055 212427

Win some, lose some. The tale of my baking disasters and successes in Italy.

So, I love to bake.  The funny thing is that I am not much of a sweets eater, but I love to bake.

So, naturally, I’ve been experimenting in my new kitchen in Florence with baking.  It has been a hoot and a half getting to know the baking aisles at my local grocery stores, where I can often be found reading the fine print on the back of boxes, doing my best to understand the complicated Italian language as it describes the mysteries found inside the box!

For example: what do you think this is?

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From the picture on the box, you might think it is a cake mix.  Ha ha!  You’d be very wrong.  It is potato flour/starch.  Some of the recipes I’ve been playing with here require this completely new to me ingredient.  I felt like a winner when I finally found it on a grocery store shelf.

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Here’s the back of the box.  I decided to make these ricotta muffins, muffin all ricotta, but turn the muffins into a torta or cake.  I am still getting used to measuring grams rather than cups.  You can see the ingredients list is:

125 g di ricotta fresca       ricotta

80 g di zucchero                 sugar

70 g di farina 00                 flour, ground to 00

50 g di fecola di patate      potato flour/starch

50 g di burro                         butter

1 uovo                                     egg

a mela rosso                        red apple  (later we learn to slice thinly with skin on and lay a    piece of apple inside the batter in each muffin cup)

mezza di bustina lievito per dolce     1/2 a packet of rising agent for sweets

mezzo limone                    1/2 lemon (later in recipe we learn it is to be lemon peel)

pizzico di sale                     pinch of salt

zucchero a velo vanigliato    vanilla-flavored powdered sugar

To the best of my ability to understand Italian baking products, below we have the equivalent of what we call baking powder in the United States.  Only here it comes in packets and I share with you now what I’ve learned the hard way thus far (see below the picture).

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Read the recipe very carefully!  Because when the recipe says to use “mezza bustina di lievito per dolce” then you want to use 1/2 a packet.

I know this now, because I missed that adjective when I was baking my ricotta torta, and I wound up with a product that was completely overpowered by the taste of baking powder. Which is a nice way to say the cake tasted awful and I had to throw the whole thing out.

Fortunately, I am very patient with myself when it comes to baking (very unlike how I am when it comes to learning to speak Italian!!).  I was not very upset to bake a cake and throw it away. :-(

Whenever I bake, I like to play around with the ingredients somewhat, and I think almost every confection tastes better with vanilla.  I am accustomed to using a vanilla bean in the United States, or a high quality vanilla extract.  I haven’t been able to find that here yet, although I am certain it exists.

What I have found is this weird product:

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It is a consistency somewhere between an extract and a paste, and seems to be filled with millions of vanilla seeds, and it imparts a decent vanilla flavor to whatever I’m mixing up.

In addition, the product below is widely available in the baking aisle.  It is a white powdered version of what must be imitation vanilla?  The package says it imparts the “aroma per dolci di vanillina” or the “aroma for sweets of vanilla extract.”

Well, it does smell like vanilla but to me it doesn’t add much in the way of flavor to my baking.  I will stick to the above estratto until I can find real vanilla here.

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So, I can’t show you my finished ricotta torta, because I didn’t photograph it before I dumped it.  But here I include a picture of a torta margherita I successfully achieved a while back.

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The picture says it all!  It was wonderful!

Win some, lose some.  Questa è la vita.

I won’t stop trying!! :-))

 

P.S.  I’m going to try again to make the ricotta torta this weekend for a classmate’s birthday on Monday.  Wish me luck!  I am undeterred.

Best aperitivo in Firenze?

I’m not a huge drinker by any means, but so far the best aperitivo I’ve enjoyed in Florence is at the Fusion Bar at the Gallery Hotel Art.

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Their craft cocktail menu will amaze you.  I had a “Medley” which is made with bourbon and other spirits.  It was very nice.

 

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Of course nice nibbles (as above) are appreciated, but when they brought out the tapas as part of the happy hour, I was gobsmacked.  Great food!  Unfortunately, I didn’t get any pictures.  You’ll just have to take my word for it!

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My companion ordered a smoked cocktail, and it really was smoked!

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As you might expect, the art installations at the Gallery Hotel Art Hotel are typically pretty amazing as well.  Currently they have an installation of giant pin wheels gracing the exterior of the hotel.

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And the very best part of the whole thing, for me, is that I live right across the Viccolo from the bar!