Hot chocolate and Florence

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Did you know that hot chocolate is a Florentine tradition? From its first appearance at the Medici court in the 16th century, the city’s nobles went crazy for the bitter drink, which was served instead of wine or water at meals in Palazzo Pitti.

It experienced a second moment of importance in the 19th century, when some of the city’s now-historic bars served it to travelers, aristocrats and intelligentsia. I recently learned about Hot Chocolate in Florence on a thematic tour of the city with Francesca from the cultural association Tre Passi Per Firenze, organized by Yelp Firenze, and I’ve asked her to tell us more about it. The article below is composed thanks to her research, with my words.

 

History of chocolate in Florence: where and whom

Christopher Columbus may have sailed the ocean blue in 1492 but it took him until his fourth expedition, in 1502, to discover chocolate. The nice people of the island of Guanaja in Honduras sent some home with him, having also served it to him as a drink, which he found disgusting. Cortés did a better job of diffusing the love for chocolate, having found it in Mexico in 1519 and imported it to Spain in 1528. It took half a century until it became regularly available in Europe – Italy was the second country to adopt it.

The “gift from the gods” was prepared as a drink – the possibility to make chocolate harden into a bar came only later – following the methods brought back via Cortés. The seeds of the cacao were ground into a powder and combined with boiled water to make a bitter drink. Early reports say it was healthy and provided much energy. Its success in European cities, including Florence, was that it provided an alternative to wine and beer when the water couldn’t be drunk unless boiled. It wasn’t entirely to the taste of Italians until combined with cane sugar: Girolamo Benzoni, an important merchant, said in the middle of the 16th century that it wasn’t fit for men but for pigs. He changed his mind when he tasted the sugared version.

For the entire article, see:  http://www.arttrav.com/florence/hot-chocolate-in-florence/?fbclid=IwAR3VY-ISIIyTJAYdhw66QfRu9_vXl4d0GlceJWeGyZNI0yuooevWH_gyjbY

A little friendly fallafel competition

Walking through Le Marais yesterday, my guide pointed out 2 restaurants in the old Jewish quartiere.  They are located across the street from each other and both specialize in fallafel.  Each restaurant tries to outshine it’s main competitor, and, judging from the crowd size, I’d say that L’As du Fallafel is winning, at least it was yesterday!

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The competition is this place, Mi-va-mi. I love the fact that they are completely upfront in their quest: goutez et comparez (taste and compare).

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Paris sweets

Just your average, turn-of-the-century, pastry shop in Paris:

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Where they sell devilishly delightful confections.  I was waiting in line to buy their signature loaf of whole wheat bread, and wound up with a few of these temptations as well.  Well, who can blame me?! I mean: look at them!!

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Actually, this is no average Parisian pâtisserie!  It is the winner of one of the  prestigious awards for an annual contest for who bakes the best traditional baguette (baguette de tradition) in all of Paris.

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Here’s the name/address of the bakery:

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Gâteau Opéra = Opera cake. Surely the food of angels!

 

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Oh la la!  Do you like layers of a lighter-than-air sponge cake soaked in coffee syrup;  chocolate mousse that tastes like what angels must eat in heaven; and a thin layer of chocolate ganache mirror glaze with just a touch of edible gold leaf?!

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The you would love this Opera cake or Gâteau Opéra in French.

Nobody can say with certainty when or where (although it is well-known as a French invention) opera cake was first made, but it is composed of layers of sponge cake (known as joconde in French) soaked in coffee syrup, layered with mousse or buttercream and covered with ganache.

The cake was popularized by the French pâtisserie house Dalloyau, but its origin is unclear. One creator-claimant, at la maison Dalloyau in 1955, is Cyriaque Gavillon. He was grandfather to Christelle Bernardé, the current manager of the prestigious French company Dalloyau Bastille, and named by his wife Andrée Gavillon after the Parisian Opéra House Garnier.

Gaston Lenôtre (1920 – 2009) also claimed the honor of inventing the dessert in 1960.  However, complicating the mystery is the fact that an advertisement in Le Gaulois in 1899 offered a “gâteau opéra.”

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I can tell you this much: when you have tasted this confection, you won’t care who/what/when/where or why this cake was invented. You’ll just be glad you got to try it!

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Say it isn’t so! Starbucks in Italy

I’ve made my feelings on Starbucks in Italy known before, so I’ll skip that rant for today.  I was recently in Milano and I made a special trip to the new Starbucks there and to try their coffee.  My expert opinion below.

 

 

They chose a beautiful building, not far from La Scala and il Duomo, for their home.  Obviously Starbucks wanted to land with a big impression.  So far as the location goes, they were successful.  Money was clearly not an object.

 

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It’s fancy and high tech inside.  Instead of the green that typifies all of the other Starbucks in the world, they have chosen warm and coppery colors and materials, maybe to match the coffee beans (ha ha) or to express wealth (metallic colors can do that).  Either one works for Starbucks.

 

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This message board above changes every few seconds with new info.  Unfortunately, I didn’t have the time to linger and decode the information.  It reminded me of the departures/arrival times at the Termini train station in Rome as it used to be.  Now it is digital too.

 

The usual coffee paraphernalia on offer.

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Every sort of bean imaginable is for sale.

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The coffee roasting area:

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The symbol for the Starbucks “roastery” shops.  I think there are 4 worldwide.

 

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A few artworks pay homage to Starbucks.

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Oh, and the aspirational wall.  This metallic globe is “dedicated to Milan, the city that has inspired our dreams. Every coffee that we have served came from here.”

Cheesy or what?

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Oh, and here’s my cappuccino, the worst one I’ve ever had anywhere in the world:

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It doesn’t even LOOK right, does it?  I drank a few sips and then found one of the thousands of workers milling around and told her that I am from the US and that I know Howard Schultz (he used to be a neighbor), and that I thought he’d be sad about my cap.

She asked what was wrong and I said, well look at it.

She asked if she could make me another one and I agreed, as long as it was takeout.  I needed to catch a train.  She refabricated my old cap, making it milkier,  and dumped it into takeout cup.  It was still awful.

 

Don’t come to Florence, Starbucks.  I’m warning you.

Coffee on trains in Italy

Everybody knows Italians invented the coffee culture that is beloved around the world today.  I will never forget seeing a Starbucks in Dubai.  I almost fell to the ground in gratitude for something I recognized in that (to me) very foreign place!

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But despite how many places I have seen coffee on offer in Italia, nothing surprised me and yet didn’t surprise me at the same time as much as seeing fresh coffee beans ready to be ground and brewed on an Italo train from Milan to Verona last week.  I mean, per che no?  It only makes sense!

And this was a self service coffee maker at the end of a train car.  There is also a cafe car that serves freshly made espresso…but this machine is available closer to your seat and avoids the messy interaction with live people!  And sometimes train workers will pass by and offer you coffee or other things from their carts.  But, Italians, at least on this train, have yet another coffee option.  They might want to grind and brew their own joe on their own.

You have got to love this culture!

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Eat your heart out, Starbucks!

Verona, Italy in December

What a lovely small city is Verona.  I understand why Shakespeare chose it as his setting for Romeo and Juliet!

I had the good fortune to spend a few days in Verona recently and the city was all decked out for Christmas.

To begin, here is our home away from home, with a beautiful terrace next to the Adige River.  A large persimmon (cachi in Italiano) tree attracted many local ucelli!

 

Here are some of my favorite pictures:

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L’amore materno–Mother Love

 

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I love a decorative octopus!

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Check out the foot still attached to this prosciutto!  OMG!

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Verona’s magnificent Duomo below:

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The apron front of the facade reminded me of church architecture in Lucca.

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The altar below is painted and has matching sculptures in front.  I’d never seen anything like this before.

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The altar below beckons from across the church.  Such lavish gold, again, I’ve never seen anything quite like this and I’ve seen a lot of altars in my day.  I love that Italy is always surprising me.

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See what I mean below:

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The ubiquitous December creche scene: the figure of the baby Jesus will not appear until midnight of the 25th.

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I guess the placard below is for those sinners who don’t remember or know how to confess.

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These pictures are from the interior of the duomo in Verona.  It is a beautiful church.  Verona was obviously a wealthy city during the Renaissance and after, as it still is today.

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I’ve looked at a lot of paintings in my day, but I’ve never seen such a foreshortened putto flying in from this angle, to crown with laurel the knight in armor.

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While this sculpted doorway below looks to be monumental, it was actually at my eye level on a wall in the duomo, and measured about 12 inches tall.

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Back out in the lovely streets of Verona, I admired this art nouveau wrought iron in a window.  It’s unusual for Italy and I love it.

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Below is the gorgeous facade of the duomo.

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There are Roman ruins on the hillsides in Verona.  I took this picture to remind me of this new (to me) fact: I want to go back and see more of the town.

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The facade below is getting some TLC.

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Walking along on the sidewalk along a wall, there are death notices posted.  I find these fascinating.

 

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Flower shops are magnets to me:

 

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I am obsessed with this crystal lamp with the red tassels.  Obsessed.

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Obsessed I tell you!

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Finally, the end.  A shout out to my girl, Jenny, for being an awesome traveling companion.  More to come, I am sure!

Oh, and p.s., I have a few more Verona posts coming, including Giardino Giusti.  Watch this space!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Walking through Florence’s historical center, I spied…

This sign in marble. The sign of a gone but not forgotten Florentine business.

This evocative old surviving street sign for this long lost business in the heart of Florence, announces “Antica Cascina di Dario Peruzzi.”. Translated it advertises this “old farmhouse,” which served (or sold for takeaway) milk, cream and butter and “a bar room” of coffee and milk.  I wish I could time travel in for a moment or two to see what like was like inside this lost business.  Dario Peruzzi, whoever you were, I remember you.