Santa Maria Novella, Firenze: fruits and vegetables

If you’ve ever been to Florence and walked around the city enjoying architectural masterpieces, you have no doubt spent time appreciating the gorgeous green and white marble exterior of the church of Santa Maria Novella.

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I was meeting a friend recently and we agreed to rendezvous in front of the center door of the church. I got there early and had time to study the high-quality marble carving of the panels to either side of the main door.

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These white marble panels were clearly carved by a master sculptor, for the quality of the carving is very high.  A variety of leaf types are depicted in the stone, as well as many recognizable fruits and even some vegetables. The background of each grouping of edible plant parts is a grouping of fasces, tied with a ribbon to create the bundle of rods, a symbol utilized in the Roman empire and reused ever since.

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In the grouping above you can clearly see oak leaves, plums, and apples.

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The relief above looks like laurel leaves are depicted as well as what look like potatoes.  Potatoes?  I’m not sure.

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I think the fruits above might be peaches?

 

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In this picture, I think I see acorns, oak leaves, and apples. Perhaps those are poppy heads at the top?

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This picture seems to include grapes.

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I hope you will tell me what you see.  I’m sure I’ve missed many things!

Extraordinary Florentine views

Yesterday I had the immense pleasure of being with some new friends who showed me their garden in Florence, and as we climbed the hill behind their home, the most amazing vistas of the city came into view.  Behold!

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Below is a sweeping view from the Palazzo Pitti on the right to the dome of the Duomo on the left.

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The city of Oz has nothing on Florence! Florence looks like a magical wonderland in the  picture below! I mean, just look at it!

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It is known that the American painter, John Singer Sargeant, was on this promitory to see the sweeping views of Florence and it is said that long before that, Leonardo purportedly  studied this view as he developed his famous technique of sfumato.  And, to top it off, the hill is topped by the foundation of a chapel that was never constructed, because Roman ruins were found just below the surface of the ground.

It would take at least two lifetimes to take in the wonders of Florence.

 

Should Michelangelo’s David be moved to an earthquake proof location?

Let’s ask the director of The Accademia, Cecilie Hollberg, where the statue stands today.  The following is an interview conducted by Helen Farrell of The Florentine:

Cecilie Hollberg | Ph. Leo Cardini


Helen Farrell
: Earlier this year, an architect from Padua made the international headlines with an idea to move the David to an earthquake-proof museum. At what stage is the Accademia in the creation of seismic protection for the world’s most famous statue?

 

Cecilie Hollberg: First of all, this architect has been publishing things in newspapers and magazines since 2008; there are plenty of experts who openly give us advice without being familiar with our site, or without having the experience or capabilities needed to understand what can be done here. Building an underground bunker in a city like Florence means moving the David, which is enough to show us they really haven’t thought this through. There’s all this chatter in a local newspaper about moving it in the front of the new opera house. Everyone’s been asking about it. This statue is fragile, and that’s why it gets everyone so agitated. Yet, at the same time, everyone’s ready to move it all over the place—it’s a very strange situation. In any case, we’ve been working on this for years. The Ministry conducted many investigations on the building, the structure itself, and the possibilities that may arise, and since I’ve been here, we’ve been closely monitoring the statue. It’s cleaned every two months, financed by the Friends of Florence, and with every cleaning we are able to monitor the statue very closely. Every weak or fragile spot is regularly scrutinized time and time again so if there were any changes we would see them immediately. This aspect is something that’s always been under control. But, and I’m going to open a parenthesis here, there are some real absurdities out there. There was someone who sustained that the heat makes marble melt: it’s absurd. Marble changes its state of aggregation at 900 degrees centigrade.

 

HF: He’ll be fine then, even with our summers…

 

CH: There are all of these things that end up in the press because these poor souls want to link their name to Michelangelo’s David, hoping to end up in newspapers. Of course, they do end up in newspapers and we have to waste our time explaining to them that, in reality, marble does not melt. In addition, we created a framework agreement with DICEA, the University of Florence Department of Civil Engineering and Environment, in which we continue the already initiated investigation on the structure of the building. The structure is what’s important in the event of any sort of {seismic} movement. The base that holds the statue and blocks it from falling is entirely useless if the ceiling comes down on it. Thus, we made this framework agreement and the inspection will follow shortly, the only thing missing before we can decide what to do. I have been in contact with many institutions; I’ve been to the U.S. to the Getty Institute where there are several earthquake experts. Yet the reality remains that no one has ever worked with a statue like the David. All of these platforms are just fine for structures from 2 to 2.5 metres, but the David weighs 5,660 kilos and stands 5.17 meters tall. No one has ever experimented on a statue of this kind. They’ve experimented with the Riace Bronzes, but they’re much smaller and bronze is an entirely different material—it’s more flexible than marble. It’s an entirely different conversation, and so we can’t adapt the research done for that kind of model and apply it to an icon of the Renaissance. We really have to think about what we’re doing. The last thing I need is this group of charlatans coming to me with advice without knowing anything about the situation.

You can read the entire interview here:

http://www.theflorentine.net/art-culture/2017/10/a-conversation-with-cecilie-hollberg/

Incidentally, this week I visited the Casa Buonarroti, where a scale model of the apparatus that was used to move the David from Michelangelo’s studio to its original placement outside the Palazzo Vecchio (the original has since been moved to the Academia) is prominently on display.  Here’s a photo of that model:

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Michelangelo’s Madonna of the Stairs

I’ve enjoyed a week of Italian masterpieces, starting at the Uffizi Gallery last weekend.

Yesterday I visited the Casa Buonarroti in Florence, where I had Michelangelo’s incomparable Madonna of the Stairs to myself.  Awesome.

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I’ve loved this sculpture since I first learned of it in an art history course.  The artist could paint or sculpt anything, in any style.  He could do a deep bas-relief and he could do the shallowest of carvings, achieving truly awesome results within the depth of a piece of paper.

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Uffizi masterpiece: Duccio’s Rucellai Madonna

As Christians around the world prepare to celebrate the birth of Jesus on December 25, it seems like the right time to talk about some Uffizi masterworks.

Let’s start at the beginning of the Italian Renaissance with Duccio’s break-taking Rucellai Madonna.  This large painting shares a room with two other altarpieces by contemporary artists, whom I’ll discuss in upcoming posts.

 

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Duccio, The Rucellai Madonna, 1285-86, tempera on panel, 177″ x 114″

 

 

 

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I could wax on about this gorgeous work of art, but instead I’ll direct you to the Khan Academy instead:

https://cdn.kastatic.org/KA-youtube-converted/1JL5ZR-ocOs.mp4/1JL5ZR-ocOs.mp4#t=0

The nighttime views I love

Orsanmichele in middle ground, Giotto’s Campanile and Brunelleschi’s cupola in background.  I learned only today that the golden ball atop the dome of Santa Maria del Fiore was created by Andrea del Verrocchio in 1468 and placed atop the Cathedral on 27 May 1471.  I am fortunate to be able to look at these masterworks many times every day of the year.

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And, very close to my terrazzo, is this strong, rugged tower, a relic of the (Medieval) days when Firenze was dotted with such privately-owned torre.  It is handsome all day long, but most attractive to my eye at night.

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The story of art: Leonardo’s GINEVRA DE’ BENCI

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GINEVRA DE’ BENCI by Leonardo, 1474. National Gallery of Art, Washington, D.C.

Leonardo’s first nonreligious painting is the portrait of a melancholy young woman with a moonlike face glowing against the backdrop of a spiky juniper tree.

Although somewhat listless and unengaging on first glance, Ginevra de’ Benci has wonderful Leonardo touches, such as the lustrous, tightly curled ringlets of hair and unconventional three-quarters pose.

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More important, the picture presages the Mona Lisa. As he had done in Verrocchio’s Baptism of Christ, Leonardo depicts a meandering river flowing from the misty mountains. With her earth-toned dress laced by blue thread, Ginevra is unified with the earth and the river that joins them.

Ginevra de’ Benci was the daughter of a prominent Florentine banker whose aristocratic family was allied with the Medici and second only to them in wealth. In early 1474, when she was sixteen, she married Luigi Niccolini, who at thirty-two was a recent widower.

His family, which was in the cloth-weaving business, was politically prominent; he soon became the chief magistrate of the republic, but in a 1480 tax return he declared that he had “more debts than property.” The return also said that his wife was ill and had been “in the hands of doctors for a long time,” which could account for the unnerving pallor of her complexion in the portrait.

It is likely that Leonardo’s father helped him get the commission, probably around the time of Ginevra’s 1474 marriage. Piero da Vinci had served as notary for the Benci family on many occasions, and Leonardo had become friends with Ginevra’s older brother, who lent him books and would end up as a temporary custodian of his unfinished Adoration of the Magi.

But it does not seem that the portrait of Ginevra de’ Benci was commissioned as a wedding or betrothal portrait. It shows a three-quarter pose, rather than the side profile that was typical of the wedding genre, and she is dressed in a starkly plain brown dress unadorned by jewelry rather than one of the elaborate dresses with luxurious jewels and brocades that was then common for an upper-class wedding painting. Her black shawl is an unlikely adornment for a celebration of a marriage.

In an oddity of Renaissance culture and mores, the picture may not have been commissioned by the Benci family but instead by Bernardo Bembo, who became Venice’s ambassador to Florence at the beginning of 1475. He was 42 at the time and had both a wife and a mistress, but he struck up a proudly public Platonic relationship with Ginevra that made up in effusive adoration what it likely lacked in sexual consummation.

This was a type of elevated romance that, at that time, was not only sanctioned but celebrated in poems. “It is with these flames and with such a love that Bembo is on fire and burns, and Ginevra dwells in the midst of his heart,” the Florentine Renaissance humanist Cristoforo Landino wrote in a verse extolling their love.

Leonardo painted Bembo’s emblem of a laurel and palm wreath on the reverse of the portrait, and it encircles a sprig of juniper, in Italian ginepro and thus a reference to Ginevra’s name. Woven through the wreath and juniper sprig is a banner proclaiming, [in English] “Beauty Adorns Virtue,” which attests to her virtuous nature, and an infrared analysis shows Bembo’s motto, “Virtue and Honor,” had been written beneath it.

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Suffused with the muted and misty dusk light that Leonardo loved, the painting shows Ginevra looking pale and melancholy. There is a vacant trance-like quality to her, echoed by the dreamlike quality of the distant landscape, that seems to go deeper than merely the physical illness her husband reported.

The portrait, which is more closely focused and sculptural than others of the era, resembles a bust sculpted by Verrocchio, Lady with Flowers.

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Andrea del Verrocchio, Woman with Flowers, Marble, 1475-80, Bargello Museum, Florence

The comparison would be even closer except that the bottom portion of Leonardo’s painting, perhaps as much as one-third, was at some later date lopped off, which removed what writers from the period described as gracious hands with ivory-white fingers. Fortunately we perhaps can imagine how they looked, since a silverpoint drawing by Leonardo, showing folded hands holding a sprig, which may be related to his painting, exists in the collection at Windsor.

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Leonardo, Study of Hands, 1474, 21.5x15cm.
Royal Collection, Windsor Castle

As with the other paintings he did in Verrocchio’s shop during the 1470s, Leonardo used thin layers of oil gently blended and blurred, sometimes with his fingers, to create smoky shadows and avoid sharp lines or abrupt transitions.

If you stand close enough to the painting at the National Gallery in Washington, DC, you can see his fingerprint just to the right of Ginevra’s jaw, where her ringlets of hair blur into the background juniper tree and a distinct little spiky sprig juts out. Another can be found just behind her right shoulder.

The most arresting features of the portrait are Ginevra’s eyes. The lids are studiously modeled to appear three-dimensional, but this also makes them feel heavy, adding to her somber demeanor. Her gaze looks distracted and indifferent, as if she’s looking through us and seeing nothing. Her right eye seems to wander to the distance. At first her gaze seems diverted and looking down and to her left. But the more you stare at each eye separately, the more each seems to focus back on you.

Also noticeable when staring at her eyes is the shiny liquid quality that Leonardo was able to achieve with his oils. Just to the right of each pupil is a tiny spot of luster, showing the sparkling glint from the sunlight coming from the front left. The same use of luster can be seen on her curls. This perfect glint of luster—the white sparkle caused by a light hitting a smooth and shiny surface—was another of Leonardo’s signature marks. It is a phenomenon we see every day but do not often contemplate closely. Unlike reflected light, which “partakes of the color of the object,” Leonardo wrote, a spot of luster “is always white,” and it moves when the viewer moves.

Look at the lustrous glimmer of the curls of Ginevra de’ Benci, then imagine walking around her. As Leonardo knew, those spots of luster would shift and “appear in as many different places on the surface as different positions are taken by the eye.”

After you interact with Ginevra de’ Benci long enough, what at first seem like a vacant face and distant stare begin to appear suffused with a haunting tinge of emotion. She seems pensive and ruminating, perhaps about her marriage or the departure of Bembo, or because of some deeper mystery. Her life was sad; she was sickly and remained childless. But she also had an inner intensity. She wrote poetry, one line of which survives: “I ask your forgiveness; I am a mountain tiger.”

In painting her, Leonardo created a psychological portrait, one that renders hidden emotions. That would become one of his most important artistic innovations. It set him on a trajectory that would culminate three decades later in the greatest psychological portrait in history, the Mona Lisa. The tiny hint of a smile that is visible on the right side of Ginevra’s lips would be refined into the most memorable smile ever painted. The water flowing from the distant landscape that seems to connect to the soul of Ginevra would become, in the Mona Lisa,the ultimate metaphor of the connection between earthly and human forces. Ginevra de’ Benci is not the Mona Lisa, not even close. But it is recognizably the work of the man who would paint it.

His Ginevra is innovative, at least for Italy, by ushering in a three-quarter view for women’s poses rather than the full profile that was standard.

This allows viewers to look at the eyes of the woman, which, as Leonardo declared, are “the window of the soul.” With Ginevra women were no longer presented as passive mannequins but were shown as people with their own thoughts and emotions.

 

Isaacson, Walter. Leonardo da Vinci. Simon & Schuster. Kindle Edition.

 

Orsanmichele, Firenze, 11 Dicembre 2017

My subtitle would be: I love Florence in the winter!

I wandered into Orsanmichele today and had the masterpiece all to myself.  I lit candles for some beloved family members and took a pew, gazing at Orcagna’s magnificent altarpiece for a long, long time.  It was a gorgeous moment in Florence, the kind of thing I live for.

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I started thinking about the name: Orsanmichele.  It is not a common name for a church.  What is the significance, I wondered?

“San Michele” or Saint Michael is easy to extract from the name, but I had to head to Wikipedia for the full answer.  Orsanmichele (or “Kitchen Garden of St. Michael“, from the contraction in Tuscan dialect of the Italian word orto) is a church that was constructed on the site of the kitchen garden of the monastery of San Michele, which no longer exists.

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Located on the Via Calzaiuoli in Florence, the square building was constructed as a grain depository and market in 1337 by Francesco Talenti, Neri di Fioravante, and Benci di Cione.

Between 1380 and 1404, the building was converted into a church, to be used as the chapel of Florence’s powerful craft and trade guilds.

From the exterior, the ground floor contains the 13th-century arches that originally formed the loggia of the grain market.

The second floor was devoted to offices, while the third housed one of the city’s municipal grain storehouses, maintained to withstand famine or siege.

Late in the 14th century, the guilds were charged by the city to commission statues of their patron saints to embellish the four facades of the church.[1]’

Orsanmichele’s sculptures are a relic of the fierce devotion and pride of Florentine trades, and a reminder that great art often arises out of a competitive climate. Each trade hoped to outdo the other in commissioning original, groundbreaking sculptures for public display on Florence’s most important street, and the artists hired and materials used (especially bronze) indicate the importance that was placed on this site.

The Renaissance sculptures have been removed to museums, but faithful copies of each work of art have been placed in the niches.

Another day I will illustrate the niche sculptures, but today I felt like sitting inside the church and studying Andrea Orcagna‘s seemingly bejeweled Gothic Tabernacle (1355-59), which encases a repainting by Bernardo Daddi‘s of an older icon, the ‘Madonna and Child’.[2]

I don’t think there are actual jewels in the tabernacle, but the encrusted mosaics make it seem that way.

One of the first things I noticed is that the exterior of the cupola of the altarpiece is shaped and decorated like a Fabrege egg.  You can see what I mean in the photo below.

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Here’s a detailed look at the egg shape, right behind the triangle of the facade:

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If you are ever fortunate enough to spend the winter in Florence, you can enjoy Orsanmichele all to yourself as well.  Here’s info on opening hours.  The museum on the upper floor is NOT to be missed.

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