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Laurearsi? Not sure. It’s something along these lines.
See the young woman with flowers in red paper in her arm?

She just graduated from university. How do I know?

Because she wears a “corona” or a circle of bay leaves on her head.

What a beautiful custom! I look forward to seeing more graduates around Florence over the coming months. I hope to have my camera ready sooner so I can get a front view!
Another piece of art nouveau, but I am afraid, as lovely as it is, it is overshadowed by its next door neighbor.


Still, this building is a knock out. I’ll go back for more photos soon.

I stumbled upon an architectural gem today in Florence. A living, breathing piece of art nouveau, in situ, complete.

I honestly don’t think that I’ve ever seen art nouveau in any form in Florence. I’ve seen it in Lucca in the so-called “Liberty” style decorating some buildings.



I’ll be going back for more photos soon. Maybe when the sun is out??



‘I am the hailstorm that shall smash the heads of those who do not take cover.’
And that, he was.
Have you ever wandered the streets of Florence and happened upon the via dei leoni, the street of lions? Do you, like me, ask yourself why there is a street devoted to lions in the center of the historic citta?
No, you don’t?
Well, humor me, okay?
See this street running roughly north-south in the center of Florence, right behind the Palazzo Vecchio?

It turns out that the street, located at the rear facade of the Palazzo Vecchio, was so-named because from the 14th – 16th centuries, a menagerie of exotic animals–including some lions–were kept here. Wild and exotic animals were bred in Florence from at least the Middle Ages, both as objects of curiosity and symbols of wealth and prestige. In Florence, particular importance was given to the lions, because they were the very symbol of the city of Florence, as in the Marzocco.

The presence of these animals in Florence has been documented since the 13th c., although probably they were there even earlier. Initially they were kept at the expense Republic in cages at the Palazzo del Podesta (now the Bargello ), then on the site of the what is now known as the Loggia dei Lanzi and, c. 1350, moved behind the Palazzo Vecchio, on the streets called the Via dei Leoni.

Mystery solved!
P.S. As I sit at my studies on this rainy Florentine Sunday, I see out my window this view of the campanile of the Palazzo Vecchio.


Do you see the Marzocco at the very top of the structure, holding aloft the Florentine lily? Lions and lilies and Florence, oh my!
Thank god the inhumane practice of keeping wild animals in captivity is no longer a part of Florentine life.
The Palazzo Borgherini-Rosselli del Turco is a Renaissance era palace in my neighborhood in Florence, located at Borgo Santi Apostoli 17.

Commissioned by prominent Florentine, Pier Francesco Borgherini, around 1517 (a mere 500 years ago!), the palace was designed by one of the most famous architects of the period, Baccio d’Agnolo.

The building, completed by 1530, stands beside the church of Santi Apostoli and faces both the Piazza del Limbo and the Borgo Santi Apostali. In the map below, the palazzo covers the area starting on the right at Hotel Alessandra (which actually is inside part of the palazzo) and the European School of Economics. The palazzo runs continually along the Borgo Santi Apostoli, ending at the Piazza del Limbo. The building is further contained by the Santi Apostoli e Biagio church.

The photos below show the palazzo facing Borgo Santi Apostoli.

Baccio d’Agnolo also designed the nearby Palazzo Bartolini Salimbeni on Piazza Santa Trinita.
The Borgherini family had recently purchased property on which this palace was built, including the last available portion of the existing Limbo cemetery. In order to build this palazzo, the architect had to follow the contour of the left nave and apse chapels of the church, creating an unusual zig-zag profile on the southern side. There is, in fact, a private access to the church from inside the palazzo.





Because of the unusual plot, the architect was unable to create a central colonnaded courtyard typical of Florentine palazzi and instead designed a simpler atrium, which was needed to provide the light and air for the palace’s many rooms. The vestibule on the ground floor was used for commercial activities of the Borgherini family; this atrium has a vaulted ceiling, ending in fine corbels decorated with two bands of acanthus leaves.






Another nearby room, with a barrel vault, gave access to the Limbo Square.The staircase to the upper floors leads off the atrium and along the wall which accesses the nave of the church. The ceiling of the stairs is made of planks of stone, which is quite unusual in Florentine palazzi designs.




The first floor rooms were used for family life and face the north.








A small chapel (6.40 x 1.60 meters), not illustrated here, had a small window with a grate that opened directly on the clerestory of the left aisle of the church. It was thus possible to attend religious services without leaving home. The interior of the chapel is decorated with paintings in monochrome with cherubs and other religious subjects and the altar has a wooden bust of the Virgin and Child.

Above is the coat-of-arms for Borgherini family. This beautiful object hangs in the current vestibule to the palace.
The interior of the palazzo was decorated by Benedetto da Rovezzano,* among others. Da Rovezzano was a friend and collaborator of Baccio d’Agnolo; together they were also working on the new portal of the Church of the Holy Apostles. They each designed a fireplace for the Palazzo Borgherini. The one by Benedetto da Rovezzano, with low-relief sculpture, was in the living room; it is now in the National Museum at the Bargello. The other period fireplace is thankfully still in situ in a first floor room. It has the solemn linearity, without decorations, typical of the style of Baccio d’Agnolo.




The Borgherini were among the most active supporters of the arts in Florence, and they lavished upon their prominent home many splendors by contemporary artists, including Andrea del Sarto, Pontormo, Bachiacca, and Granacci. Sadly, over the centuries, many of the best pieces by the finest artists have been sold off or confiscated, beginning as early as 1529, when the chests containing panels painted by Jacopo Pontormo for the Borgherini were expropriated. As noted above, the fine fireplace which da Rovezzano created for one of the rooms of the palazzo is now a part of the Bargello museum.


*(Benedetto Grazzini, best known as Benedetto da Rovezzano, was an Italian architect and sculptor who worked mainly in Florence. He was born in Pistoia in 1474, and adopted the name Rovezzano from the quarter of Florence in which he lived. Wikipedia Born: 1474, Pistoia; Died: 1552, Reggello)
No less a personage than Vasari described the luxurious interior of the building, in his work dedicated to the life of Baccio d’Agnolo:
( Lives by Giorgio Vasari [1568])
“He gave Pier Francesco Borgherini drawings of the house inBorgo Santo Apostolo,who at great expense had ornaments brought for the doors and chimneys, and in particular oversaw the creation of the finely carved walnut paneling of the room, which at its termination, was of great beauty.”
Borgherini even had a bridal chamber built in honor of the marriage of his son Pier Francesco and Margherita Acciaiuoli. Baccio d’Agnolo oversaw the wooden decoration of that room, which included painted panels embedded into the architectural design.
Baccio acted as an intermediary between the patron and the most important painters of the time, including Andrea del Sarto, Pontormo, Bachiacca and Granacci, all of whom were commissioned to decorate the panels for this room. The artists created paintings designed to tell the story of Joseph the Jew which probably were meant to allude to the young couple or the patron himself.
The fame and the beauty of this room were such that as early as 1584, some panels had already been sold by the order of Francesco I de’ Medici, who wanted the panels by Andrea del Sarto and Granacci for his own collection.
Today, the panels are scattered across various European museums, including the Uffizi.

On the exterior, the palace’s solid plaster walls are divided into three floors, with windows and doors decorated with a course of typical bugnato (Florentine ashlar) and elegant wrought iron, which was used to hold torches and banners. For the stone detailing of the palazzo, Baccio d’Agnolo collaborated with Benedetto da Rovezzano on both exterior and interior details.



There is also a rooftop terrace, probably designed by Baccio d’Agnolo, although probably built at a later time.
The western, short side of the Palazzo Borgherini faces the Limbo square and has bas-reliefs and inscriptions and several license plates and registration. There can be found a monogram of Christ; two inscriptions in stone; and a small portrait in profile of the Madonna and Child, carved in low relief. The latter has traditionally been attributed to Benedetto da Maiano. (The Marian relief could instead be a copy of a similar work in the Church in San Frediano in Cestello, attributed to Francesco di Simone Ferrucci.)






On the corner of the building is the coat of arts of Borgherini.
Soon I will be writing a post on the garden associated with this palazzo.
The Borgherini family lived in the palazzo until the mid-18th century, when the family was implicated in a scandal involving shortages from the Granai dell’Abbondanza granary. The family’s holdings and properties were confiscated by the Lorraine State and sold at judicial auction.
The Rosselli del Turco family acquired the property, which has been in their possession ever since. The Rosselli family was for having produced famous painters, such as Cosimo and Matteo Rosselli, and the antiquities scholar, Stefano Rosselli (1598-1664), author of manuscripts on the works of art found in Florentine churches of the 17th century.
In 1750 the palace was given to Giovanni Antonio, Stephen and Jerome of Turkish Rosselli , together with the garden and other adjacent buildings. This family was responsible for the restoration and conservation of no significant additions subsequent palace. Today it belongs to their descendants as well as one of the venues of the College of Higher Education in UK law European School of Economics , which here holds bachelor and master courses in the economic sector. The palace also houses the headquarters of the association in the World Fiorentini and didactic center of the Arch of Guelph .
Today the building hosts ESE Florence, while the garden is housed by ESE’s partner Aria Art Gallery.
Read more: http://www.eselondon.ac.uk/ese-centres/florence/history-of-palazzo-rosselli-del-turco.html#ixzz4Wbwm4Roi
As seen in a random restaurant today.

On either side of the long, languid Arno River that bisects Florence from east to west, run parallel roads, called the Lungarni. These long roadways are, in typical Florentine fashion, divided up every few blocks or so, with various names.

Italy has a lot of history and Florence in particular has a lot of names to commemorate. The Lungarni passages provide a fertile field for memorializing important names. Here they are:
North shore (from the west):
Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci
Lungarno Corsini
Lungarno Acciaiuoli
Lungarno Archibusieri
Lungarno Anna Maria Luisa de ‘Medici
Lungarno General Armando Diaz
Lungarno delle Grazie
Lungarno della Zecca Vecchia
Lungarno William Galeazzo
Lungarno del Tempio
Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo
Lungarno Aldo Moro
South shore (from the west):
Lungarno Bruno Buozzi (Lastra a Signa)
Lungarno dei Pioppi
Lungarno del Pignone
Lungarno Santa Rosa
Lungarno Soderini
Lungarno Guicciardini
Lungarno Torrigiani
Lungarno Serristori
Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini
Lungarno Francesco Ferrucci
As you can see, a lot of names were used in naming the sections of the Lungarni!
It fills me with some kind strange pride to note that I’ve had the personal good fortune to live on three sections of the Lungarni thus far in this lifetime (who knows about other lifetimes? I can’t remember!): in the Oltrarno I had the pleasure of living for time on the Lungarno Serristori and later the Lungarno Torrigiani. I loved every minute of both locations. There is no better way of exploring a new area of the city than living in it for a while!
My focus today is on the North side of the river and on the section of the Lungarno on which I currently have the amazing luck to live. The prestigious Lungarno Acciaiuoli is the stretch of the north bank of the Arno River in Florence that runs from the Ponte Vecchio to the Ponte Santa Trinita. This area of Florence is among the most elegant areas in the city.
My short passage of the Lungarno ends at the east end at the storied Ponte Vecchio and overlooks, on its west end, the Torre Consorti, and one side of the Palazzo Spini-Feroni, home of the Salvatore Ferragamo palazzo and museum. It’s a tony avenue.

In olden times, this section of the Lungarno was called i cappellai or “the hatters,” after the Florentine hat makers who located their shops here.
Later, in the 19th C., two of the most important Florentine hotels were located here: the Grand Hotel Royal de l’Arno and the Hotel Royal de la Grande Bretagne. Charles Dickens, Henry James and many others stayed in these famous hotels. Sometimes, when I am walking around Florence on streets where I know for a fact that famous personalities from the past passed over, I imagine for a moment what it would be like to bump into, say Dante Alighieri or Charles Dickens walking around town. I’ve always had this sort of imagination.
Still standing from that era is the Hotel Berchielli, the ancient building that miraculously survived the landlines set by the retreating German army during WWII. This historic building has housed the Hotel Berchielli since 1890 and is among the most famous hotels in the center of Florence.
A marble plaque on the façade recalls the frequent stays of Romain Rolland, a distinguished literary critic and the winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1915. Rolland chose the Hotel Berchielli as his Florentine residence.
ROMAIN ROLLAND
INSIGNE WRITER
AND ART CRITIC
sTAYed HERE
IN 1911
And while you may not be familiar with Rolland, I’m sure you know that guy named Pablo Picasso, who also, several decades later, took up residence in the hotel (fall of 1949).
Also marking the area is a plaque at Red All’84-86, of Palazzo Spini Feroni:
AVSPICIIS. ET. MVNIFICENTIA
Ferdinandi. III. M. D. ETR.
AEDIVM. SPINORVM. partem
ARCV. VIAE. IMPOSITO. FLVMINI. ANTEA. IMPENDENTEM
SERIOUS. PERICVLO. DILAPSVRAM
COMMVNE. FLORENTINORVM
A.D. CIVIVM. SECVRITATEM. ET. Maiorem. AMOENITATEM. LOCI
ONLY. AEQVANDAM. CVRAVIT
YEAR. MDCCCXXIII.
VEXILLIFERO. Iacobo. COMITE. Gvido

The translation is: “Under the auspices and through the munificence of Ferdinand III, Grand Duke of Tuscany, the City of Florence in the year 1823, being the standard-bearer Count Jacopo Guidi, demolished for safety of citizens, and greater beauty of the place, the part of the houses the Spini who first faced the river on a place at the turn of the bow away and threatened to collapse with grave danger. ”
(reference: Francesco Cesati, the great leader of the streets of Florence, Newton Compton Editori, Rome 2003).
From the Lungarno Acciaiuoli, the world of Florence’s history, culture and elegance are readily available.
On the Lungarno Acciaiuoli, looking towards east to Ponte Vecchio:

Looking from the embankment in the opposite direction, towards the west, one can admire the graceful Ponte Santa Trinita, about which I will be posting soon. This bridge is considered to be one of the most elegant and refined bridges in Italy in particular or in all of Europe. The line of arches that create the bridge, along with the white scrolls on the summit of each arch, and the four statues placed on the corners to represent the seasons, the bridge is one of a kind. Standing on the bridge provides a unique panorama or the lovely Arno through this area.
The Lungarno Acciaiuioli is considered, along with the current Lungarno Corsini, to be the most ancient road opened along the Arno river. This section of the Lungarni has a varied character, marked as it is by two building from the Middle Ages (the Consorti tower and Palazzo Spini Feroni), as well as restored buildings from the 19th-century and still others rebuilt in the 1950s and 60s with a modern character.
What a street!
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