Carrara, where Michelangelo quarried his marble

The Italian Renaissance would have looked completely differently if these quarries of pure white marble had not been located in Tuscany, not far from Florence.  Thanks, Carrara!

Update 11/06/14: read this dire report on Carrara before watching the cool video below:

Carrara swamped, red alert in 8 regions, Rome schools to close

Lambs drowned, crops ruined, families plucked from roofs

(ANSA) – Rome, November 5 – Strong winds battered Rome Wednesday, bringing down trees and snarling traffic, while heavy rains with more to come triggered severe weather alerts in the Italian capital and across much of the country.
Up to 110 mm of rain was forecast through Thursday in Rome where a red alert – the highest on the civil-protection scale – was issued, leading to ramped-up preparations for weather woes.
Authorities ordered school closures for Thursday in the city and province of Rome, including such nearby communities as Fiumicino, as well as in parts of Tuscany and as far south as Calabria.
Red alerts were also issued regions stretching from the Veneto to Umbria, Lazio and Sicily.
Two people were injured in Naples where they were hit Wednesday morning by broken tree branches and lambs were reported drowned on farms in Tuscany, swept away as heavy rains pounded central and northern regions.
In Tuscany and Liguria, boats and helicopters were used to rescue dozens trapped in their homes by flood waters and evacuations were ordered in the coastal regions.
Heavy rainfall also forced evacuations in the province of La Spezia, and triggered new fears for the region around the port city of Genoa where one person was killed and millions of euros’ worth of damage was caused by heavy flooding last month.
At least 40 people were evacuated from a Genoa-area building, as rains threatened the stability of its walls.
In the Tuscan city of Carrara, north of Florence, a worker was rescued after he was feared killed when an embankment collapsed after the rain-swollen Carrione River burst its banks and flooded parts of the city. Schools in the area were closed and families evacuated from their homes, with some clambering onto their roofs to get above the flood waters, civil protection authorities said.
Tuscany Governor Enrico Rossi said he would declare a state of emergency for the region.
The area is particularly sensitive to vicious weather because of its history of flooding that has caused several deaths in both Carrara and nearby Massa in the past 12 years.
Venice was hit by acqua alta, or high water, which rose by as much as 115 cm above sea level, forcing locals and tourists to don rubber boots in order to wade through streets as about 15% of the lagoon city was flooded, including iconic St Mark’s Square.
Alerts were issued as far north as Piedmont while in Lombardy, the Po river rose more than two meters in 24 hours and rains increased levels of the Adda river and Lake Maggiore by midday Wednesday.

First impressions are everything.

When I landed at the Delhi airport last January, I was instantly ready to love with India!

My feeling was based simply upon this stunning first impression of contemporary art which represents timeless Indian culture in a simple, modern fashion.

First impressions ARE everything!

Nameste!  See more after the jump.

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I knew I had come to the right place! I was jet-lagged into next week, but I noticed this artwork!  When a work of art can speak to me through the fog of severe jet-lag, I know I’ve hit the motherlode.  India did not disappoint!

Arriving at the Indira Gandhi International Airport’s brand-new Terminal 3, filled me with a sense of awe. The incredible visual experience of this series of giant gesticulating hands, jutting from a wall of what look like copper discs, made me stop in my tracks in wonder.  I like anything that has that power.  It’s why I travel.  It’s why I read.  It’s why I study art and culture.  It’s why I live.

Jaipur-based artist, Ayush Kasliwal, was commissioned to produce these giant, expressive hands.   The builders of the new concourse of the truly modern airport were keen to give the terminal an Indian context, to infuse it with Indian values. The idea of the hands emerged as the winning concept, for all forms of Indian classical dance use hand gestures called mudras. Thus, mudras are a both a distinctly Indian and common vocabulary.  The writer of this blog heartily adds her compliments to the designers.  It really works!

If you’d like to know more about this stunning installation, please go to

Click to access DIALmudras.pdf

and

http://archive.indianexpress.com/news/friendly-gestures/638563/0

B is for Bernini. Meet me in Rome to find him.

When you are nearing the end of the alphabet (which in my case is the front end with A, since I started this exercise with the letter Z), you gotta go Italian. Personally, I don’t think it is ever wrong to go Italian.  It is my default.  I once spoke Italian to a man in Tokyo because my brain told me I was traveling and so it must be Italy.  It wasn’t.  But it was funny!

So, Bernini.  Think Rome.

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Good.  Now, drill down.

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Great. We are getting there.

The Triton Fountain by Gian Lorenzo Bernini.  Check out the hotel at the top of the building behind the fountain.  In case you can’t tell who the artist is, they named a hotel for him!

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I love the Triton Fountain in the daytime.

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I love the Triton Fountain at night.

Very dramatic with the lighting!

But, let’s keep moving.  We have other Bernini works to admire.

Let’s go to the Borghese Galleries. First, let’s locate the Villa Borghese grounds in Rome.  There they are, at the top of the map below.  Gallery Borghese is circled in red in the Villa.  Rome looks small in this map.  It isn’t.

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Now, for the building:

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Got it!  Gorgeous, right?  This is one of my favorite spots in Rome.  I have a funny story about a red balloon and a red-haired boy, age 10, aka Jamie, for another day.  We bought this balloon just outside the Borghese and it went with us all around Italy, on trains, into buildings, it caused quite a stir.  That’s all I can say for now.

So, let’s go inside.

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Uh huh.  Can you say beautiful in Italian?  Bella.  Actually, bellisimo would be more appropriate, don’t you think? I certainly do. This is Italian opulence at its finest.  Do you see that big white sculpture in the center of this lovely gallery?  Let’s go look at it up close.  It’s a Bernini!

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Nice.  Let’s see another view including its luscious setting.

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Sweet.  I think you can see now why Bernini is considered a virtuoso sculptor!  He carved this two figure group in his typically exuberant style, convincingly showing the female figure in the process of transforming from a woman into a tree.  What is going on?

The story Bernini is exploiting (in a good way) is that of the god Apollo, who has been struck by Cupid’s arrow.  The first girl he sees is Daphne, the maiden daughter of a river god, and he is overwhelmed by her beauty and his desire for her.

Unfortunately for Apollo, Daphne has also been struck by Cupid’s arrow, only her arrow was the kind that made her repel the love of men.  So, as Apollo chases her, promising her the moon, she prays to her father, who grants her wish to get away from Apollo.  The wish is performed by the nymph Daphne turning into the shrub Daphne.  And, for all you gardeners out there, that is where the evergreen Daphne shrub gets its name.

Pretty cool, yes?  Let’s look at a detail.  See how Daphne’s fingers are turning into leaves and branches?  It is very cool indeed.

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Our time for today’s tour is almost up, so let’s quick hightail it over to the church of Santa Maria della Vittoria.  Let’s find it on a map so you can go there someday without me.

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You got it!  The A above.

Look for the church.

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Isn’t it lovely!  Santa Maria della Vittoria. Saint Mary of Victory in English. The Italians have a lot of churches and dedicating a church to Saint Mary would not be specific enough in a city the size of Rome.

So, let’s enter.

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Wow, gorgeous.  We are most definitely not in Kansas anymore.  Look around for the Cornaro Chapel. Let me know when you find it.

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Uhh, yeah, you found it.  It is kind of hard to miss, don’t you think?  Look at all those expensive materials: all colors of marble for starters. Bernini designed the setting as well as the sculpture. Let’s see the statues in the center.

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This is another Bernini masterpiece.  It is called the Ecstasy of Saint Teresa.  A Catholic saint from Avila in Spain described her experience of religious ecstasy in her encounter with the angel is described as follows:

I saw in his hand a long spear of gold, and at the iron’s point there seemed to be a little fire. He appeared to me to be thrusting it at times into my heart, and to pierce my very entrails; when he drew it out, he seemed to draw them out also, and to leave me all on fire with a great love of God. The pain was so great, that it made me moan; and yet so surpassing was the sweetness of this excessive pain, that I could not wish to be rid of it. The soul is satisfied now with nothing less than God. The pain is not bodily, but spiritual; though the body has its share in it. It is a caressing of love so sweet which now takes place between the soul and God, that I pray God of His goodness to make him experience it who may think that I am lying.

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Wow.  That must have been quite the experience. And you thought art history was boring?  Ha!  I rest my case.

I think that is enough art for today.  Ciao a tutti!

Q is for Jacopo della Quercia

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Jacopo della Quercia (c. 1374 – 1438) was a major early Renaissance sculptor, whose works even influenced Michelangelo.

Here are multiple views of one of Della Quercia’s best-known sculpture, The Fonte Gaia in the Piazza del campo of Siena.

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Left side with Creation of Adam’
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Right side

Della Querica takes his name from the little town near Siena in which he was born.  During the Black Plague (c. 1350) that killed so many Europeans, people were desperate for an answer as to what caused the plague (we know now it was fleas carried by rats), and how to avoid it in the future.  Somehow the statue of Venus that adorned the main piazza of Siena was deduced to have an evil influence and was soon destroyed and buried outside city’s walls.  Della Quercia was the fortunate winner of the commission to design a replacement fountain.  His theme, constructed in white marble, was the Virgin Mary.  Superstitious Italians hoped that by placating this deity, their community would be spared the spurge.

Della Quercia also carved many reliefs for a church in Bologna.  Here are three of them.

Quercia_1425-39_San-Petronia-portal_detail_Creation-of-Adam God the Father creating Adam

Quercia_1425-39_San-Petronia-portal_detail_TemptationThe Temptation in the Garden of Eden

Quercia_1425-39_San-Petronia-portal_detail_Expulsion The Expulsion from the Garden of Eden

It is known that Michelangelo saw these reliefs by Della Quercia.  Have a look at Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel Ceiling and see how his paintings relate compositionally to these sculptures.  I think you see the connection.

Another amazing work by Della Quercia is this sculpture placed over a tomb in the Lucca cathedral.

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It is a pretty spectacular sculpture and well worth a trip to Lucca whenever you are lucky enough to be in Italy.

Z is for Zenobia.

I don’t know what has gotten into me recently.  I just really feel like blogging about art.  For some reason, Harriet Hosmer’s Zenobia has been on my mind today and so–just for fun–I decided to try blogging each day with an artist, artwork, or art-related subject for each letter of the alphabet.  And, because, I am Lauretta, who likes to do things differently, I decided to do it from Z to A.

Ahem.

So, here we go, let’s start at the very end.  Z is for Zenobia.

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So, I can hear you asking, who is Harriet Hosmer and what is a Zenobia?

Well, let me introduce you to “Hattie” who is shown working here in her studio in Rome, c. 1860.

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Got your attention?  Excellent!

Harriet Goodhue Hosmer was born (1830) in Massachusetts and was encouraged by her physician father to live an active life to overcome early illnesses.  He instructed her in studies of anatomy, which are critical for an artist’s understanding of how to portray the human body, and she liked to model in clay.  With her father’s connections, she was able to study at a medical school in Missouri.

Yada-yada, I can hear you saying, but women didn’t go to medical school in the mid-19th century! “Ladies” stayed at home and painted watercolors, if they just had to paint, or did needlework more likely.  They didn’t mix with men in medical schools for crying out loud!  But Hosmer did. She seemed destined to defy tradition.

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This is “Hattie” as a young woman. Maybe I am reading too much into this portrait of her, but I think I can see confidence and strong-mindedness in her direct gaze; regardless, she would need these character traits to lead what turned out to be a very unconventional life during the Victorian era.

The year 1852 was very critical in Hosmer’s life, for that’s when she left New England for Rome.  From 1853 to 1860, she studied sculpting with the Welsh sculptor, John Gibson, in his Roman studio.  Hosmer met many stars in the international art galaxy centered in Rome, including Nathaniel Hawthorne, George Eliot, George Sand, and she was a frequent guest of the Robert and Elizabeth Barret Browning in Florence.  Just for fun, let’s take a quick look at the Browning’s front door in Firenze.

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Omg, don’t you love it?  Did you know that Elizabeth Barrett Browning is said to have said: “When I die I don’t want to go to heaven, I want to go to Florence.”  My sentiments exactly.

But, back to unconventional Hosmer.

I have written at some length on Hosmer before ( for the Metropolitan Museum of Art on their American sculpture collection) and there is plenty of biographical material available on the web for anyone who is interested, so let me simply summarize by saying that all of the educated citizenry of the western world flocked to Rome in the early to mid-19th century.  The “Grand Tour” was de rigueur for the elite, and Americans of means traveled to Italy to acquire class or at least its trappings.

While we can smile at their obvious antics, we need to remember that if it weren’t for these ambitious predecessors, our American art museums would not house their impressive collections.

If you are interested in this era, there are plenty of published first-hand accounts, ranging from Nathaniel Hawthorne (see, for example, The Marble Faun), who caught it mid-wave, and Henry James, who caught the tail-end of wave, but rode it beautifully (Daisy Miller and more).  Reading Henry James’ Golden Bowl, or watching the movie made from it, is a superb way to enter the atmosphere of the lure of Italy for weatlhy Americans.

There can be no doubt that in addition to studying sculpture, Hosmer enjoyed the comparative freedom that a foreigner always feels while living in another country.  And Rome was very open-minded, which was helpful because Hattie was gay.  Her life in Italy must have been intoxicating.

Hosmer met and mingled with many strong women from several countries and she had love affairs with a number of them.  Her private life is really none of my biz, but I suspect it was quite interesting.  Good for her!  She would probably cheer for yesterday’s American Supreme Court ruling, allow for same sex marriage. Huzzah! But, back to art.

In time Hosmer was joined in Italy by a number of other American women who, interestingly enough, made sculpture their raison d’etre.  Hosmer may have shown them the way.

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With images such as this, known as Puck, Hosmer garnered critical and popular acclaim. The Prince of Wales and the Duke of Hamilton were among just two of the purchasers of this whimsical piece (and there were many copies made, very openly, of popular subjects).

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Here is a great photograph of Hosmer and all the Italian artisans that brought her modeled images to life in marble (yes, that’s right, most of these sculptors modeled and hired locals in Italy to do the carving).  When you consider how far women had come, this is a remarkable document.

Zenobia was the queen who ruled Palmyra, a part of Roman Syria, from 267 to 274 CE.  Zenobia, known as al-Zabbā’ (الزباء‎) in Arabic, famously led a revolt against the Roman Empire and became queen of the Palmyrene Empire. By 269, Zenobia had expanded the empire, conquering Egypt and expelling the Roman prefect, Tenagino Probus, who was beheaded after he led an attempt to recapture the territory. She ruled over Egypt until 274, when she was defeated and taken as a hostage to Rome by Emperor Aurelian.

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Of all the moments in Zenobia’s life, Hosmer chose to depict her as captive of the Roman army, her head bowed slightly and her eyes downcast. Despite the manacles and chains which imprison her, she still conveys a sense of authority and majesty, for her crown and other jewels are intact, her back is straight, and her shoulders are held back as she steps confidently forward.  I see her as proud and stoic.

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Here I quote another blogger on Hosmer:

“Hosmer chose to bring Zenobia to life, not as her usual symbol of a defeated victim, but rather as an embodiment of woman’s ability to move beyond the constraints that have been placed on them.”  This may be an overstatement, but I tend to think not. And I think Zenobia is a great place to start an alphabet!

American art: Bessie Potter Vonnoh

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After yesterday’s post on Paul Manship, I am in a sculptural frame of mind.  My mind turns to the intersection of two of my favorite subjects: horticulture and sculpture.

In no place on earth do these two subjects (and one more–which you will find out at the end of this post–it is a secret until then) come together better than in the Central Park Conservatory in this famous New York park.  If you have never been to this garden, put it on your bucket list.  Here is a photo and some information from the Conservatory’s website:

Conservatory Garden in Central Park

“The Conservatory Garden‘s….main entrance is through the Vanderbilt Gate, on Fifth Avenue between 104th and 105th Streets. This magnificent iron gate, made in Paris in 1894, originally stood before the Vanderbilt mansion at Fifth Avenue and 58th Street.”

That certainly sets the stage. Thank you Conservatory website.

Now, back to Bessie Potter Vonnoh.

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So, who was this artist and what is this gorgeous monument in New York, surrounded by a pond of lilies, all about?

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Bessie Potter Vonnoh (BPV) was born in St. Louis in 1872 and grew up in Chicago.  Her enlightened mother encouraged her to study at the Art Institute, where she was fortunate to study with one of the most well-known sculptors of the time, Loredo Taft.  This  was a critical moment both for Taft’s life as well as for the art life of the United States.  In 1893, the World’s Columbian Exposition was held in Chicago and Taft was commissioned to create an entire sculptural program to decorate the exterior of the Horticultural Building, an important venue at the Expo, and BPV became a valued assistant. She also produced an independent commission, the Personification of Art, for the Illinois State Building.

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Indeed, the 1890s were a decade of important events in her life.  In 1895 she met Auguste Rodin in Paris and enjoyed some critical success, as well as receiving an important civic commission back in the U.S..  Four years later the sculptor married impressionist painter Robert Vonnoh. In the French Exposition Universelle of 1890, BPV won a bronze medal for two works.

“The Belle Epoch” in the U.S. was a great time of World’s Fairs, and art played an important role in all of these expos.  BPV enjoyed successful participation in many of these, including  the 1901 Pan-American Exposition (Buffalo, NY) and at the 1904 Louisiana Purchase Exposition (St Louis, MO).

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Just for fun, allow yourself to get lost in this delightful, idealized bird’s-eye view of the fairgrounds at Buffalo. It gives you a sense of how wonderful these artificial grounds must have been. You could also watch the Judy Garland classic movie, Meet Me in St. Louis, for another fun introduction to the big expos of the time. I digress.

In 1913 BVP was fortunate to have a solo exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum and a few years later she became the first woman elected to the then-prestigious National Academy of Design.  While this was a great honor–an acceptance into the established art world–it also signals BVP’s holding pattern in the conservative camp of American art through the next decades of her life (she died in 1955).

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Vonnoh even exhibited at the famed Armory Show in 1915.  One can about imagine her reaction to the modernist works she saw there!

Armory show notwithstanding, sculpture designed specifically for garden settings became a very popular art form for early 20th century American patrons of art and BPV enjoyed success working in this format. The lovely Frances Hodgson Burnett Memorial Fountain in the Central Park Conservatory is, I think, her finest example.

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You may know that Frances Hodgson Burnett was a British/American playwright and author, perhaps best-known today for her wonderful children’s classic and one of my own very favorite books, The Secret Garden.  Here is a cover of the book when it was first published in 1911.

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At the beginning of this post I said that BPV’s sculpture in Central Park is a wonderful intersection of sculpture and horticulture.  Now you see that it also includes children’s literature.  What could be better? Art, literature, horticulture;  I love them all.

American Art: Paul Manship.

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Many people will recognize this iconic image of “Prometheus” from Rockefeller Center. This giant gilt-bronze statue depicts the young Greek god who fashioned humankind from clay as well as stealing fire for mankind’s use.  Said to be the most photographed sculpture in all of New York,  I wonder how many know its maker, Paul Manship (1885-1966)?

Manship was born in Minnesota and went to art schools in Philadelphia and New York.  In 1909 he won the Rome Prize which allowed him an idyllic study at the American Academy in Rome until 1912.

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This picture shows a typical fountain designed by Manship.  I love this insouciant toddler,  who lifts his head in pure joy while impishly  holding two pitiable frogs.  Despite his nudity, which could be excused both for the boy’s youth and for the figure’s obvious reliance on classical sculpture, work similar to this found a ready audience in American art circles of the pre-WWI  United States.

Under the spell of the Italy, Manship familiarized himself with the art of the world and was especially taken with Archaic (pre-classical)  Greek sculpture.

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His own sculpture took on the characteristics of Archaic sculpture and he began treating classical subjects, such this gorgeous and completely new and vanguard treatment of “Europa and the Bull.”

The American art world to which Manship returned in 1912 was stuck aesthetically in the so-called “Beaux-Arts” tradition and was just beginning to feel the punch of the newer, more “modern” approach.  Sculptors were very much behind painters.  Manship’s post-Italy work, which was smooth, sleek and very simplified with highly elongated forms, caught the wave of the modernist aesthetic, while not upsetting the more conservative American approach.

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The fact that Manship’s post-European bronze sculpture abstained abstraction made him a favorite with art collectors.  Today we see in his work the advent of what we now call Art Deco, as you can clearly see in this 1916 work entitled “Dancer and Gazelles.”

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This is Manship’s “Diana of the Hunt”, showing the woman and her hound of classical mythology.  With work such as the ones pictured here, Manship not only established himself as a sculptor of note, but became one of the leading –and highly influential–figures of the established art life of the U.S.  His expertise and taste had a lasting impact on the 20th century American aesthetic, which is important to remember, for by the 1940s his own work can be seen to be quite conservative.

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My own personal experience with Manship’s work really took shape while I was a visiting scholar in 1985 at the American Academy in Rome.  I was beyond fortunate to be a Chester Dale Fellow at the Metropolitan Museum of Art for three years starting in 1985 and, as a part of that lucky break, I spent three months in Rome in the fall of 1985.  Many mornings I sat in the out-door courtyard of the McKim, Meade and White building near the Aurelian Wall in Trastevere.

In the center of this wonderful building in this incredible setting was the fountain pictured above.  As I sat drinking cappuchino and planning my attack on the archives in the city of Rome for the day, week, or month, I would gaze at this Manship statue and listen to the soft play of water.  As I look back, I am so grateful for the vision the Academy’s founders had and the collaboration between architects and sculptors for providing future generations with such a setting in which to be inspired.  Thank you Paul Manship!

More Dale Chihuly

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Just can’t get enough of these colorful glass extravaganzas by Dale Chihuly.

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Both of the images above are shots of the glass ceiling in the current Chihuly exhibition at the Seattle Center.  For me, this ceiling gives Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel ceiling a run for its money.  Some pope or other fantastically rich person should give Chihuly a commission for a ceiling on that scale.

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In this picture you can get a clue of how this incredible ceiling of glass was built.

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One more of the ceiling and now I am forcing myself to move on.  It’s hard, but I’ll do it.

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Take a gander at this major centerpiece, as in centerpiece of a room.  A very large room.

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A detail of the blue centerpiece.

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Another detail.  Man how I love this piece.  Let’s look at one more detail.

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Pretty amazing, yes?

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And then there is this white confection.  Did you ever pull taffy?  That is what I think about looking at this gorgeous thing.

American Art: Augustus Saint-Gaudens

With Boston still on all of our minds, I’m turning today to sculpture in my blog series on American artists.

On another day I will post pictures of some of August Saint-Gaudens‘ other gorgeous works, but today I am focusing on this magnificent monumental work in the Boston Public GardenThe Robert Gould Shaw Memorial, scultpure designed by Augustus Saint-Gaudens and framing designed by Stanford White, was built on Beacon Street Boston in 1897 in memory and honor of Shaw and his soldiers.

Robert Gould Shaw (1837 – 1863) was an American officer in the Union Army during the American Civil War. As Colonel, he commanded the all-black 54th Massachusetts Infantry Regiment, which entered the war in 1863.

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Shaw was dubious about a free black unit succeeding in the war, but he agreed to lead them.  His men’s dedication deeply impressed him and, upon learning that the black soldiers received less pay than the white ones, his unit boycotted until this wrong was righted. The enlisted men of the 54th Massachusetts Infantry refused pay until Congress granted the black soldiers the same full back pay at the white pay rate in August 1864.

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Here is a bust Saint-Gaudens created as a study for his Shaw monument. Below are some details of the relief.

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With all good wishes sent to all Bostonians today.