Museo Bardini has re-opened in Florence

And I paid a visit.  It was not like the old days, where you could wander at will, which is very sad.  Now they have a “percorso” or path, which you have to follow and they have guards in every room watching you like a hawk.  It didn’t feel like they were watching out for Covid.  It felt like they thought I was going to damage or steal the art.  I didn’t care for it.  Plus, I was one of 3 visitors.  I mean, really?

Despite my complaints, the museum is still a wonderful place with a fascinating collection. It is one of my favorite museums in Florence.  Here are a few of my favorite things:

 

 

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The unusual sculpture above, showing a woman breast feeding 2 children at once, is explained in the label above.

 

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Here’s some info about the collector for whom the museum is named:

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And here are some of his eclectic objets:

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It’s official.  My new favorite art form is medieval sculpture.  I mean, look at the examples above and below.  Did you ever see a sweeter angel above?

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And, above, check out the lion caryatid figure.  Notice that he has a poor ram pinned below his feet, for all eternity.  The poor ram.  I love the primitive charm of these sculptures!

 

 

When I backtracked to take a picture of this gorgeous Renaissance doorway was when I knew my visit yesterday was not going to be the carefree affair of the olden days.  A mean, older woman reprimanded me for taking a few steps back towards where I had come from (although how you would notice the far side of the doorway you are walking through is beyond me), cackling at me that you must follow the path forward (I saw no signs showing me the path ahead either).

But, forget about her…look at the sumptuous doorway.  Wow.  What it must have felt like to use such casings.

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Going upstairs, like a good girl, I arrived in the room for which I had come.  I could spend hours in this gallery, if they would turn on all of the lights and get rid of the guards acting like I was going to damage the artworks.

 

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Donatello’s Madonna and Child with the Apple

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Donatello’s Madonna and Child, known as the Madonna and the Ropemakers:

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And then there are the cassone, or the wooden chests (like a hope chest for an aristocratic Italian woman), that Bardini collected.  If they would turn on the lights in the gallery and let me get close to the works, I would be in heaven.  As it is, I’m halfway to heaven, just looking at the furniture and thinking about the girls/women whose lives they represent.

 

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And then there are the cornice: the incredible frames that Bardini collected. Any American art museum would give eye teeth for one of these marvelous frames.

 

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Moving into another gallery, I pass through another sumptuous doorway casing:

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Beautiful painted crucifixes were also collected by Bardini.  Below them, more cassone.

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I could spend a day in this museum just studying the ceilings:

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Or the Sienese sculpture:

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Below, you might think you are looking at a rug on a floor, but it is a ceiling:

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Upon leaving my favorite galleries, I go down this stairway, lined with rugs hung on walls.  Very effective.

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What a collection.  Despite the guards, I love this museum!

La Foce

La Foce, or “the mouth” of the Orcia river, in the beautiful Val d’Orcia, Toscana.  If there is a more beautiful place on earth, I’ve yet to find it.

Created by Iris Origo and her husband, this incredible formal Italian garden is set amidst the rugged Crete senesi.  This was my second visit, but I know there will be more visits in the future.  Last time I was there, it was late summer and the earth and foliage was rather brown. This time, after the rains we have been getting, it was vibrantly green.  It is beautiful in any season.

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https://www.lafoce.com/it/

 

The Pazzi Chapel at Santa Croce

Part 6 of my recent visit to the magnificent Franciscan basilica of Santa Croce. You can find the other posts here.

Check out Santa Croce from the front.  I wonder how long we can enjoy the city before the tourists return? Not sure, but I am enjoying every second of the city in its current, quieter state.

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When you leave the interior of the church, walking into the cortile, you immediately see the splendid Pazzi Chapel.  The chapel wasn’t accessible yet when I was there, but even a look from the outside is enough to calm the soul.

 

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The Pazzi is seen in the plan below; note the circle in the plan and that’s the chapel. You can see how the green lawn in front sets it off.  Green grass is a rare commodity in Florence.

 

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Santa Croce, Part 5, June 2020

We have finally reached the final stretch of my recent visit to Santa Croce.  For the past few days, I have posted similarly on other parts of the church (you can find the posts here).

First, this tomb commemorating Rossini:

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Next up is one of the masterpieces of Santa Croce.  It is the tomb for Leonardo Bruni, created by Bernardo Rossellino:

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Then, the creme de la creme of sculpture in all of the Renaissance, in my humble opinion.  I adore this monument by Donatello.

 

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Moving further along towards the western end of the side aisle, we arrive at Canova’s tomb to Alfieri. I used to swoon for Canova and Neoclassicism.  I still like this sculptural work.

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And Dante, who was exiled and whose body is preserved in Ravenna.  In the 19th century he was given this cenotaph in the celebrity burial place of Florence, Santa Croce.

 

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I love the way the couple is admiring this monument in these pictures.

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And then, of course, there is the tomb for Michelangelo, created by Vasari.

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And, upon leaving (or entering) the basilica, the font with holy water for the faithful is perhaps the most beautifully wrought example of its kind:

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Niccolini tomb on the western wall, between 2 portals.

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Santa Croce, part 4, June 2020

Following the recent reopening of this Franciscan basilica, I continue with my first visit of the church (for parts 1, 2 and 3 see here).  We begin here at the east end of the basilica, in the chapels to the right of the Peruzzi Chapel:

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Below is a major reliquary.  I find this aspect of the Roman Catholic Church so strange.

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Looking west from the eastern wall, I see this neoclassical tomb.

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Castellani Chapel by Agnolo Gaddi and his workshop:

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Santa Croce, part 3, June 2020

Following the recent reopening of Florence’s major Franciscan basilica, this is part 3 of my first visit of the church (parts 1 and 2 are here and here).  We have reached the altar end of the basilica and here it is in all its glory!

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First, let’s have a detailed look at the altar in front of the apse:

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Also on display near the altar is this incredible Medieval painted altarpiece depicting St. Francis and scenes from his life:

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I will be writing a post on the frescoes in the main chapel behind the altarpiece.  Right now, they have it roped off and I couldn’t get into it to take decent pictures. Looking into the apse area behind the main painted altarpiece:

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OK, so now we move into the big leagues as far as art historian are concerned.  Two of Giotto’s major works are to be found in adjoining chapels in Santa Croce.  They are the Bardi and Peruzzi family chapels. The first one is the Bardi chapel, depicting scenes from the life of St. Francis:

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And now, the Peruzzi Chapel. Sadly, the frescoes are in very bad condition, having been partially painted a secco by Giotto, which means the true fresco technique did not allow the colors to become a part of the wall.  Plus, the frescoes were badly abused over the centuries, sometimes even being covered with white wash.

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Here’s an overall view of the 2 family chapels next to each other on the east end of the church. The Bardi is to the left, under the stained glass window, and the Peruzzi is to the right of it:

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Santa Croce, part 2, June 2020

Following the recent reopening of this Fransciscan basilica this week, I continue (see Part 1 here) with my  visit of the church following the quarantine.

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Below is a plan of the church.  My tour is coming from West to East along the north side of the basilica.

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Below,  I pick up my tour from the almost at the crossing. The first work on this tour today is Desiderio da Settignano’s tomb for Carlo Marsuppini. Santa Croce is rich in artworks and this is one of the best. Try as I might, these pictures do not do the tomb justice.

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Moving on to the next tomb on this side aisle, we have the monument to Raffaello Morghen, by Odoardo Fantacchiotti (1809-1877). Morghen was a celebrated engraver of Leonardo’s Last Supper in Pinacoteca Repossi. Morghen died in Florence in 1833.

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Next is a plaque honoring Raphael.  It commemorates the 500th anniversary of his death.  His tomb in in the Pantheon in Rome.

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There is more to come.  Watch this space.

The cantorie in the museum of the Florence cathedral

For me the highlight of the opera’s collection are the 2 exquisite cantorie by Donatello and Luca della Robbia.  Originally a part of the duomo, these beauties are preserved in the museum where they are exhibited up high as they would have appeared in the cathedral.  I am in their thrall.

 

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First up, the Donatello:

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Now, moving across the room to the Luca della Robbia masterwork:

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Museum of the Florence cathedral, part 3

The extraordinary riches in this museum require many posts!  Here is part 3 of my recent visit.

 

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The next 2 labels deal with the custom of collecting relics some of the ones preserved in Florence:

 

 

Now on to the amazing bell tower in the duomo complex.

 

 

 

 

 

For more of these relief sculptures that form the program on the bell tower, see my earlier post:https://laurettadimmick.com/2020/05/25/charmed-by-the-late-medieval-carvings-at-the-museo-dellopera-di-duomo-firenze/