Villa Demidoff and Giambologna’s Il Gigante

As I sit in Denver on a very cold February morning, my mind wanders back to Tuscany and warm weather.  I’m almost always behind in my posts and so I take this moment to post about Villa Demidoff.

In 1568, Francesco I de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, purchased a great estate in the hills outside of Florence and commissioned the famous architect, Buontalenti, to build a splendid villa as a residence for Bianca Cappello.  Bianca was the Grand Duke’s Venetian mistress.  The villa was built between 1569 and 1581, set inside a forest of fir trees.

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While very little of Buontalenti’s villa survives, at least we still have this fabulous and very large statue of Il Gigante, set facing a pond filled with water lilies.

The lilies are absolutely gorgeous in late August. I had never seen anything as magnificent as the first time I saw this lake of waterlilies in bloom!  And, the statue ain’t bad either.

 

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OK, ripping my eyes away from the pink flowers, I walked around towards the back of the statue:

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Giambologna was the creator of this amazing sculpture:

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Il Gigante, also known as “the Colossus of the Apennines,” is an astounding work of art. Giambologna designed the lower part as a hexagon-shaped cave from which one can access, through a ladder, to the compartment in the upper part of the body and into the head. The cavity is filled with light that enters from the eye holes in the head.

The exterior of the statue is covered with sponges and limestone pieces, over which water pours into the pool below.

We know that originally, behind the statue, there was the large labyrinth made from laurel bushes. At the front of the giant was a large lawn, adorned with 26 ancient sculptures at the sides.

Later, many of the antique statues were transferred to the Boboli Gardens, and the park became a hunting reserve. As a part of the Pratolino estate, it was abandoned until 1819, when the Grand Duke Ferdinando III of Lorena changed the splendid Italian garden in the English garden, by the Bohemian engineer Joseph Fritsch. The part was increased from 20 to 78 hectares.

 

The park, which had been owned by Leopoldo II since 1837, was sold upon his death to Paul Demidoff, who redeveloped the property. Demidoff’s last descendant bequeathed the property to Florence’s provincial authorities.

And I feel better already.  I can feel my cold, clenched muscles relax under the spell of the Tuscan sunshine. Soon I will be there again.

Edgar Degas at the Opera, exhibition at Musee d’Orsay, Paris

There was a wonderful exhibition on Edgar Degas at the Musee d’Orsay when I was there recently.  Here are some of the works that caught my eye:

 

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I had a copy of the print below hanging in my childhood bedroom. I know and love this beautiful work as well as I know my own hands.

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Below, I wonder…little dreamers?  And, if so, dreaming of being a ballerina or a painter?

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The Rodin Museum, Paris

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What a glorious place in Paris!

What a glorious winter afternoon! January 2020. So glad I came to Paris, despite the record breaking long strikes of the Metro system and other things.

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What a glorious city!

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The Gates of Hell:

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The Burghers of Calais:

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The Musée Rodin was opened in 1919, primarily dedicated to the works of the French sculptor Auguste Rodin. It has two sites: the Hôtel Biron and surrounding grounds in central Paris, as well as just outside Paris at Rodin’s old home, the Villa des Brillants at Meudon, Hauts-de-Seine. The collection includes 6,600 sculptures, 8,000 drawings, 8,000 old photographs and 7,000 objets d’art. The museum receives 700,000 visitors annually.

From 1908, while living in the Villa des Brillants, Rodin used the Hôtel Biron as his workshop.  He subsequently donated his entire collection of sculptures – along with paintings  that he owned by Vincent van Gogh, Claude Monet and Pierre-Auguste Renoir to the French State on the condition that they turn the buildings into a museum dedicated to his works.

The Musée Rodin contains most of Rodin’s significant creations. Many of his sculptures are displayed in the museum’s extensive garden. The museum includes a room dedicated to the works of Camille Claudel and one of her two castings of The Mature Age.

The gardens around the museum building contain many of the famous sculptures in natural settings. Behind the museum building are a small lake and casual restaurant. Additionally, the nearby Métro stop, Varenne, features some of Rodin’s sculptures on the platform.

Here and there in Paris, January 2020

It’s a fine thing to view Paris in the winter.  I love the views of the architecture through the bare tree branches.

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Suddenly, the Flatiron building in New York doesn’t seem to be so unique!

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I believe that this church is the first time I have seen a Biblical story played out in a sculptural neoclassical architectural pediment.  It strikes me as funny.

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Streets still decorated for Christmas. That’s a bonus!

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Chinese New Year is also on view:

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Oh, hello, you!

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Above:

Mon intention du jour me féliciter, bravo, bravo, bravo, bravo.

My intention of the day congratulate myself. Bravo, bravo, bravo, bravo.

 

 

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Below:

Mon intention du jour faire un truc plus grand que moi.
My intention of the day to do something bigger than me.

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The Pierre below is not the one I grew up with!

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The light on my first morning in Paris was stunning.  So happy to be here!

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Many churches still had their creche scenes on display.

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The font below is very different from the marble fonts I see in all the churches in Italy.

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The famous Dehillerin store:

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And every neighborhood has a great floral shop:

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And this landmark:

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Every neighborhood also has its own boulangerie. Some have incredible architectural design:

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La galette des rois est une galette traditionnellement élaborée et consommée dans une majeure partie de la France, au Québec, en Acadie, en Suisse, au Luxembourg, en Belgique et au Liban à l’occasion de l’Épiphanie, fête chrétienne qui célèbre la visite des rois mages à l’enfant Jésus, célébrée le 6 janvier de chaque année.

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Sacré-Cœur Basilica, Paris

The best way I know to spend a Saturday afternoon on a spectacular sunny winter afternoon in Paris is to climb to the top of hill to visit the beautiful Sacré-Cœur Basilica and look out at the panoramic view of Paris. It’s a hike, but it’s well worth it!

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Look at that sky!

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A talented musician serenades the crowd:

 

 

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The interior:

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This church has figured out how to hold mass and let visitors circulate around the church at the same time.  It feels right.

 

 

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Although it isn’t obvious in my pictures, the statues of Mary and the other one of Jesus are both in silver.  They remind me of the statue I saw in the Musee d-Orsay.

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Even though it was well past Christmas and Epiphany, the creche scene was still on display. Very modern and simple rendition.  I guess I’m very accustomed to the more elaborate Italian mode!

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The mosaics are splendid. The Holy Trinity in one shot here:

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Wait a second, for a minute I thought I was in the Vatican!

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The Musee d’Orsay, Paris

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Head’s up!  This will be a long post.  Lots of pictures.  The Musee d’Orsay is an incredible museum.  Much smaller than the Louvre, it is still a huge collection.  Many days are needed to truly see everything.  But, I gave it the old college try again in one day recently.

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The views out the windows are pretty spectacular.

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I am fascinated by how my tastes change over time.  When I visit a museum these days, new things I might never have noticed now take center stage for me.  Below are pictures of the works that caught my eye this time.

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Of course I always love white marble neoclassical sculpture from the 19th century.  It’s the stuff I cut my art history teeth with.   But this was a new take:  I have never seen a neoclassical (or any other period) sculpture that is adorned with actual earrings!

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I loved this Annunciation, especially since I see Quattrocento versions in Florence almost daily.  I love the French term for the title: La salutation Angelique.  Everything sounds better in French.

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I can’t remember seeing costumes on display in art museums in the past.  I was so happy to see these from the early 20th century.  Such a delight!

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A French costume version of an American Indian:

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I found this sculpture by Dubois very interesting.  It feels Quattrocentoesque to me, which I like, but the main thing I like about it is the silvery finish.

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Hello Whistler! How’s your mom?  Nice to see a fellow American here!

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