What Old Delhi looks like from the back of a bicycle rickshaw after 25 hours in transit from the US

After arriving in Delhi on the heels of a 25 hour transit from the US, including a 14 hour flight over the NORTH POLE people!! from Seattle to Dubai, I snuck off to my hotel room for a few hours of sleep.  Later I joined friends for a tour of Old Delhi on the back of a bicycle rickshaw through the Chandni Chowk market.. It was the most uncomfortable ride of my life and, of course, it was raining, and I don’t know if it was the lack of sleep, or the fact that I had entered a very different world, but I felt like I was on an acid trip.  The pink turban of the man in front of me was my bicycle rider/driver.  I was in his rickshaw.

Some of my pictures are blurry because he kept us moving.  Some are a little bit more clear, but only because he paused for a moment to let the masses of humanity and animals pass us.  He never gave passage on purpose, but only because he was driven to it by a lack of chance.  I got my first lesson in what it takes to survive in India.  Reticence and fine manners are really low on that list.

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Yeah, so it was a blur and it was chaotic all around me. And then you notice the electrical wiring and you just wonder how India can operate at all.

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And, I gotta say, I never stopped puzzling that last statement for the whole month I was there.  I still don’t know any answers.

This is India 4. Let’s look at inlaid tiles and other patterns.

Here’s what I know: You can pick just about any topic in the world and the variety of that topic in India is infinite.  Absolutely.

Let’s take the subject of gorgeous inlaid tiles found in so many Islamic buildings throughout the world.  I loved them in Andalucia, Spain; I loved them in Morocco; and, not surprisingly, I loved them in India.  Of course the Indian tiles have a distinctly Indian flavor; how could they not?

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The palette of colors is completely “Indian.”  Similar applications of tiles in Islamic buildings in Morocco and Spain have a completely different palette.

For example: here’s Morocco

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And here is an example from the Alhambra in Spain:

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It was in Spain that I first fell in love with Islamic architecture and decorative arts.

So, now you see how different the Indian palette of colors is.

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And then there are these incredibly complex ceilings in some old Indian major monuments, completely unlike anything in Morocco or Spain.  This one fascinates me.

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Then there are the carved traceries (carved stone) that cover so many windows and other openings.

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Just look at the amazing use of inlaid tiles.  Every piece hand cut.

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The photo above and the one below are taken looking up along an outer wall of the Taj Mahal.

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My pedicure blends in with the palette of tile work. I am wearing slippers from my hotel room.  You bring them with you in your bag because you will be required to remove shoes at the entrance to monuments.  But, if you bring your slippers or socks, you can wear them.  Stone tile floors are cold in February on a misty morning!

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A stucco ceiling.

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And the cut out metal lanterns create amazing patterns.  This is not at Taj, but the pattern the light casts on the wall reminds me of the traceries found at the Taj and other places throughout beautiful India.

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And finally for today, here is a huge wall well, which means there is a well at the bottom of this wall with the stairs leading ever downward in these incredibly intricate patterns.  It is mind-bogglingly beautiful.

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Musings on India, coffee and tea.

In my recent post on camellias, I buried a lead on India/tea drinking/Starbucks/Dubai/the global world we live in.  So, let me yank it out and put it here under its own heading.

Howard Shultz  Howard Shultz

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I saw an episode of the Charlie Rose show recently in which Charlie was interviewing Howard Shultz.  It turns out that Starbucks is setting out to introduce the world to the product of tea, just as they have already done with coffee.  Keep in mind that before Starbucks, the Chinese, for example, did not drink coffee.  They do now!

And another piece of trivia is that India has not permitted Starbucks (or Apple) to open any stores.  When I was in India last February, I looked everywhere for a Starbucks.  I saw McDonald’s, which is kinda funny when you think about it–cattle being sacred in India and all (see here for fun http://www.indiamarks.com/what-you-can-and-cant-get-at-mcdonalds-india/).  When I flew into Dubai from Delhi, Starbucks was there: I almost fell on the ground in adoration!  Don’t get me wrong: I am not all about American commercialism spoiling all of the world.  It’s just that in India I needed some reminders of home.  I felt like I was on Mars.

Check it out: Starbucks at the Dubai airport.  Sign in English and Arabic.  What you don’t see in this picture are my tears of joy for seeing a company I recognized!  I am usually a strong, vital tourist.  India brought me to my knees and not in a good way!

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India has excellent teas, of course!  I loved the chai that was prepared even at truckstops!  I’d love a cup right now. Nameste.

So, on the subject of tea in India, let’s have a look:

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Yes, India is identified with tea. Look at this old postage stamp:

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Here’s where tea is grown in India:

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You can purchase tea in India for a lovely presentation.

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Because, as the picture below says, masala chai is everywhere in India.  I love to drink this tea.

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These Sikh men are preparing chai for their customers.

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A pretty presentation.

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The ubiquitous product.

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A street stall vender of tea.

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Here’s to your health.  Now drink your tea.

postscript:  here’s a link for a recipe for chai masala

http://www.vegrecipesofindia.com/masala-tea-powder-dry-masala-chai-powder/

U is for Uffizi; or is it for ukioy-e? Take your pick.

The Uffizi or the art of ukioy-e.  How can I decide?  I love them both.  They are like children, you can’t choose a favorite!

Let’s start in Italy.  How can you go wrong?!!  Well, you can’t!  Did you know that 40% of the world’s art resides in Italy?  It is the truth.  And a lot of the best is in this former office building in Florence.

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Galleria degli Uffizi. I could look at this view–in person of course– for minutes, hours, days, weeks, months, or even a lifetime.

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Here’s a nighttime view, looking the opposite direction. Sigh.

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Here is just one of the masterpieces included in the Uffizi collection.  Botticelli‘s Birth of Venus.
Time spent looking at this painting is my idea of heaven, although I have little patience with the crowds that gather in front of this beauty.

And, before I get carried away with the incredible Florentine museo, let me turn to ukiyo-e, aka Japanese wood-block prints.

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Here is a masterpiece by Hokusai known as The Great WaveTry to imagine yourself as one of the boaters in the lower right quadrant.  Scary thought!  Is the artist making a statement about the magnificence of nature and man’s tiny role in it?  Maybe.

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And then there is the great Hiroshige as seen in one of his views of the famous road between Tokyo and Kyoto. Notice how the smoke from the bonfire drifts up and out of the composition, even breaking the framing device.  Nice touch Hiroshige.  No wonder you are considered a master artist.

Based upon the realms of art, the letter U is a good, even great, letter!

Ciao, sayanara!

Z is for Zenobia.

I don’t know what has gotten into me recently.  I just really feel like blogging about art.  For some reason, Harriet Hosmer’s Zenobia has been on my mind today and so–just for fun–I decided to try blogging each day with an artist, artwork, or art-related subject for each letter of the alphabet.  And, because, I am Lauretta, who likes to do things differently, I decided to do it from Z to A.

Ahem.

So, here we go, let’s start at the very end.  Z is for Zenobia.

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So, I can hear you asking, who is Harriet Hosmer and what is a Zenobia?

Well, let me introduce you to “Hattie” who is shown working here in her studio in Rome, c. 1860.

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Got your attention?  Excellent!

Harriet Goodhue Hosmer was born (1830) in Massachusetts and was encouraged by her physician father to live an active life to overcome early illnesses.  He instructed her in studies of anatomy, which are critical for an artist’s understanding of how to portray the human body, and she liked to model in clay.  With her father’s connections, she was able to study at a medical school in Missouri.

Yada-yada, I can hear you saying, but women didn’t go to medical school in the mid-19th century! “Ladies” stayed at home and painted watercolors, if they just had to paint, or did needlework more likely.  They didn’t mix with men in medical schools for crying out loud!  But Hosmer did. She seemed destined to defy tradition.

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This is “Hattie” as a young woman. Maybe I am reading too much into this portrait of her, but I think I can see confidence and strong-mindedness in her direct gaze; regardless, she would need these character traits to lead what turned out to be a very unconventional life during the Victorian era.

The year 1852 was very critical in Hosmer’s life, for that’s when she left New England for Rome.  From 1853 to 1860, she studied sculpting with the Welsh sculptor, John Gibson, in his Roman studio.  Hosmer met many stars in the international art galaxy centered in Rome, including Nathaniel Hawthorne, George Eliot, George Sand, and she was a frequent guest of the Robert and Elizabeth Barret Browning in Florence.  Just for fun, let’s take a quick look at the Browning’s front door in Firenze.

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Omg, don’t you love it?  Did you know that Elizabeth Barrett Browning is said to have said: “When I die I don’t want to go to heaven, I want to go to Florence.”  My sentiments exactly.

But, back to unconventional Hosmer.

I have written at some length on Hosmer before ( for the Metropolitan Museum of Art on their American sculpture collection) and there is plenty of biographical material available on the web for anyone who is interested, so let me simply summarize by saying that all of the educated citizenry of the western world flocked to Rome in the early to mid-19th century.  The “Grand Tour” was de rigueur for the elite, and Americans of means traveled to Italy to acquire class or at least its trappings.

While we can smile at their obvious antics, we need to remember that if it weren’t for these ambitious predecessors, our American art museums would not house their impressive collections.

If you are interested in this era, there are plenty of published first-hand accounts, ranging from Nathaniel Hawthorne (see, for example, The Marble Faun), who caught it mid-wave, and Henry James, who caught the tail-end of wave, but rode it beautifully (Daisy Miller and more).  Reading Henry James’ Golden Bowl, or watching the movie made from it, is a superb way to enter the atmosphere of the lure of Italy for weatlhy Americans.

There can be no doubt that in addition to studying sculpture, Hosmer enjoyed the comparative freedom that a foreigner always feels while living in another country.  And Rome was very open-minded, which was helpful because Hattie was gay.  Her life in Italy must have been intoxicating.

Hosmer met and mingled with many strong women from several countries and she had love affairs with a number of them.  Her private life is really none of my biz, but I suspect it was quite interesting.  Good for her!  She would probably cheer for yesterday’s American Supreme Court ruling, allow for same sex marriage. Huzzah! But, back to art.

In time Hosmer was joined in Italy by a number of other American women who, interestingly enough, made sculpture their raison d’etre.  Hosmer may have shown them the way.

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With images such as this, known as Puck, Hosmer garnered critical and popular acclaim. The Prince of Wales and the Duke of Hamilton were among just two of the purchasers of this whimsical piece (and there were many copies made, very openly, of popular subjects).

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Here is a great photograph of Hosmer and all the Italian artisans that brought her modeled images to life in marble (yes, that’s right, most of these sculptors modeled and hired locals in Italy to do the carving).  When you consider how far women had come, this is a remarkable document.

Zenobia was the queen who ruled Palmyra, a part of Roman Syria, from 267 to 274 CE.  Zenobia, known as al-Zabbā’ (الزباء‎) in Arabic, famously led a revolt against the Roman Empire and became queen of the Palmyrene Empire. By 269, Zenobia had expanded the empire, conquering Egypt and expelling the Roman prefect, Tenagino Probus, who was beheaded after he led an attempt to recapture the territory. She ruled over Egypt until 274, when she was defeated and taken as a hostage to Rome by Emperor Aurelian.

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Of all the moments in Zenobia’s life, Hosmer chose to depict her as captive of the Roman army, her head bowed slightly and her eyes downcast. Despite the manacles and chains which imprison her, she still conveys a sense of authority and majesty, for her crown and other jewels are intact, her back is straight, and her shoulders are held back as she steps confidently forward.  I see her as proud and stoic.

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Here I quote another blogger on Hosmer:

“Hosmer chose to bring Zenobia to life, not as her usual symbol of a defeated victim, but rather as an embodiment of woman’s ability to move beyond the constraints that have been placed on them.”  This may be an overstatement, but I tend to think not. And I think Zenobia is a great place to start an alphabet!

American art: Bessie Potter Vonnoh

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After yesterday’s post on Paul Manship, I am in a sculptural frame of mind.  My mind turns to the intersection of two of my favorite subjects: horticulture and sculpture.

In no place on earth do these two subjects (and one more–which you will find out at the end of this post–it is a secret until then) come together better than in the Central Park Conservatory in this famous New York park.  If you have never been to this garden, put it on your bucket list.  Here is a photo and some information from the Conservatory’s website:

Conservatory Garden in Central Park

“The Conservatory Garden‘s….main entrance is through the Vanderbilt Gate, on Fifth Avenue between 104th and 105th Streets. This magnificent iron gate, made in Paris in 1894, originally stood before the Vanderbilt mansion at Fifth Avenue and 58th Street.”

That certainly sets the stage. Thank you Conservatory website.

Now, back to Bessie Potter Vonnoh.

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So, who was this artist and what is this gorgeous monument in New York, surrounded by a pond of lilies, all about?

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Bessie Potter Vonnoh (BPV) was born in St. Louis in 1872 and grew up in Chicago.  Her enlightened mother encouraged her to study at the Art Institute, where she was fortunate to study with one of the most well-known sculptors of the time, Loredo Taft.  This  was a critical moment both for Taft’s life as well as for the art life of the United States.  In 1893, the World’s Columbian Exposition was held in Chicago and Taft was commissioned to create an entire sculptural program to decorate the exterior of the Horticultural Building, an important venue at the Expo, and BPV became a valued assistant. She also produced an independent commission, the Personification of Art, for the Illinois State Building.

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Indeed, the 1890s were a decade of important events in her life.  In 1895 she met Auguste Rodin in Paris and enjoyed some critical success, as well as receiving an important civic commission back in the U.S..  Four years later the sculptor married impressionist painter Robert Vonnoh. In the French Exposition Universelle of 1890, BPV won a bronze medal for two works.

“The Belle Epoch” in the U.S. was a great time of World’s Fairs, and art played an important role in all of these expos.  BPV enjoyed successful participation in many of these, including  the 1901 Pan-American Exposition (Buffalo, NY) and at the 1904 Louisiana Purchase Exposition (St Louis, MO).

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Just for fun, allow yourself to get lost in this delightful, idealized bird’s-eye view of the fairgrounds at Buffalo. It gives you a sense of how wonderful these artificial grounds must have been. You could also watch the Judy Garland classic movie, Meet Me in St. Louis, for another fun introduction to the big expos of the time. I digress.

In 1913 BVP was fortunate to have a solo exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum and a few years later she became the first woman elected to the then-prestigious National Academy of Design.  While this was a great honor–an acceptance into the established art world–it also signals BVP’s holding pattern in the conservative camp of American art through the next decades of her life (she died in 1955).

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Vonnoh even exhibited at the famed Armory Show in 1915.  One can about imagine her reaction to the modernist works she saw there!

Armory show notwithstanding, sculpture designed specifically for garden settings became a very popular art form for early 20th century American patrons of art and BPV enjoyed success working in this format. The lovely Frances Hodgson Burnett Memorial Fountain in the Central Park Conservatory is, I think, her finest example.

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You may know that Frances Hodgson Burnett was a British/American playwright and author, perhaps best-known today for her wonderful children’s classic and one of my own very favorite books, The Secret Garden.  Here is a cover of the book when it was first published in 1911.

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At the beginning of this post I said that BPV’s sculpture in Central Park is a wonderful intersection of sculpture and horticulture.  Now you see that it also includes children’s literature.  What could be better? Art, literature, horticulture;  I love them all.