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On the Michelangelo trail in Rome
I’m in Rome! Woo hoo! All roads lead here and I couldn’t wait to follow one of them and to enjoy the city without the usual summer hordes of tourists.
I spent the lockdown refreshing my study of Michelangelo and I’m on his trail here in Rome. I started my visit today by admiring the beautiful Porta Pia.

The elaborate Porta Pia is a gate in the Aurelian Walls of Rome, designed by Michelangelo for Pope Pius IV. Construction began in 1561 and ended in 1565, after the artist’s death. A 1561 bronze commemorative medal by Gianfederico Bonzagna shows an early plan by Michelangelo, very different from his final design.

A new gate was needed because by the mid 16th century, the newly developing urban area outside the walls couldn’t gain access through the nearby ancient Porta Nomentana from the Via Nomentana. It was decided to add a new gate to the walls, and, according to Vasari, Michelangelo presented three different designs to the Pope, which were beautiful but too extravagant, and the Pope chose the least expensive of the three. Unfortunately, the drawings are not extant and it is not known if the work was actually carried out to Michelangelo’s original plan.
The gate was, however, Michelangelo’s last architectural work. He died shortly before the structure was completed. The work was carried out by Giacomo Del Duca, who also built Porta San Giovanni, seen below.


The Porta Pia is one of the 18 gates inserted in the defensive Aurelian Walls.

PIVS IV PONT MAXPORTAM PIAMSVBLATA NOMENTANA EXTRVXITVIAM PIAM AEQVATA ALTA SEMITA DVXIT


Interestingly, the opposite side of the Porta Pia is also quite interesting. It was constructed in 1869 in the Neo-Classic design by Virginio Vespignani.

The Aurelian wall was breached during the Risorgimento. This fabulous vintage photograph, dating to after 1870, shows the breach to the right of the gate.

It was through an artillery-opened breach – known as the “Porta Pia breach” – that on September 20, 1870 Bersaglieri soldiers entered Rome to complete the unification of Italy. A marble and bronze monument is to be found at the exact point of the breach.
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This painting by Carlo Ademollo, 1880, shows the Kingdom of Italy troops breaching the Aurelian Walls at Porta Pia during the Capture of Rome.
Here also, on September 11, 1926, the antifascist activist Gino Lucetti threw a bomb against the car transporting Benito Mussolini. It was without effect.
These are a few of my favorite things (in the Palazzo Vecchio, Florence)


















































Venice gets a respite
It will be interesting to see what follows. Will mass tourism ruin the city again?
Donatello, Verrochio and Michelangelo at the Palazzo Vecchio; 3 master Florentine sculptors
In this imposing, Medieval Florentine city hall,

Reside 3 works by master sculptors of the Italian Renaissance:
First, The Genius of Victory by Michelangelo




Andrea Verrochio is up next, with his wonderful Putto with a Dolphin:




And, thirdly, Donatello. He is one of all-time favorite artists and this sculpture, Judith and Holofernes, is one of his masterpieces. It resides in this gorgeous room. You can see it on its pedestal to the right.










Palazzo Vecchio (June 2020) Part 3
Continuing my recent visit of this august pile:
Great views of il duomo!


I love the clouds in Italian skies.
































A long last look, before departing for the day.

Palazzo Vecchio (June 2020) Part 2
Here’s the next part of my recent visit to the re-opened Palazzo Vecchio:

I love the view of the rustic stone through the glass.

What a wonderful sink below! Two spigots that look like fountains:

The sink is in this elaborate niche:

Below, you can see the shape of the sink itself:




Below: the death mask of Dante:






An amazingly elaborate reliquary:


Next up, the elaborate Audience Chamber:

Here’s the ceiling:













These frescoes “idealize” even war. I like the colorful tents that housed the troops. I doubt they were this lovely in real life.




Donatello’s Judith and Holofernes:
















Early morning walk in Florence
30 June 2020.
The only way to beat the heat of a Florentine summer is to walk the city early in the morning. Here are some pix from today’s path.
First up: some hot cars on a hot morning.

The area in front of the restaurant at the Piazzale Michelangelo has a beautiful and well cared for planting. I love the hues of greens/yellows and lavender.




There’s a ubiquitous perennial I see all around Florence and I don’t know it’s name. But it has the prettiest white and vivid red blossoms. I love it.




This bee loves these flowers as much–or more–than I do!
Every morning, I think I won’t take another picture of the duomo. And then I see another view that demands that I do!

I love this view of Santa Croce and the aquamarine dome of the synagogue on the right side.

And then, walking down the ramps designed in the 19th century by Poggi, I see more incredible views from the Porta San Niccolo.


Walking across the Ponte alle Grazie, it is fun to see the boaters out on the water near the Società Canottieri down on the banks of the Arno.



I spotted yet another pattern of marble inlay. I love these old patterns.

And, a reminder that a century ago, important news often came by letter and telegram.

Palazzo Vecchio, Florence (June 2020) Part 1
One by one, the landmarks of Florence have been re-opening. With new rules and regulations, one can pay a visit to these famous sites. I recently enjoyed seeing the Palazzo Vecchio for the first time since the lock down. Very enjoyable to see old friends.

Il Salone dei Cinquecento:




The Salone dei Cinquecento (‘Hall of the Five Hundred’) is the most imposing chamber in the Palazzo Vecchio, with a length of 170 ft and width of 75 ft. It was built in 1494 by Simone del Pollaiolo, on commission of Savonarola who, replacing the Medici after their exile as the spiritual leader of the Republic, wanted it as a seat of the Grand Council (Consiglio Maggiore) consisting of 500 members.
Later the hall was enlarged by Giorgio Vasari so that Grand Duke Cosimo I could hold his court in this chamber. During this transformation, famous (but unfinished) works were lost, including the Battle of Cascina by Michelangelo, and the Battle of Anghiari by Leonardo da Vinci. Leonardo was commissioned in 1503 to paint one long wall with a battle scene celebrating a famous Florentine victory. He was always trying new methods and materials and decided to mix wax into his pigments. Da Vinci had finished painting part of the wall, but it was not drying fast enough, so he brought in braziers stoked with hot coals to try to hurry the process. As others watched in horror, the wax in the fresco melted under the intense heat and the colors ran down the walls to puddle on the floor. A legend exists that Giorgio Vasari, wanting to preserve Da Vinci’s work, had a false wall built over the top of The Battle of Anghiari before painting his fresco. Attempts made to find Da Vinci’s original work behind the Vasari fresco have so far been inconclusive.
Michelangelo never proceeded beyond the preparatory drawings for the fresco he was commissioned to paint on the opposite wall. Pope Julius II called him to Rome to paint the Sistine Chapel, and the master’s sketches were destroyed by eager young artists who came to study them and took away scraps. The surviving decorations in this hall were made between 1555 and 1572 by Giorgio Vasari and his helpers, among them Livio Agresti from Forlì. They mark the culmination of mannerism and make this hall the showpiece of the palace.
Here are some miscellaneous objets that caught my eye on this day. All of them are in the Salone dei Cinquecento, unless otherwise noted:



I see the coat of arts of the Medici family all over Florence, but this one is beyond extravagant:



A sculpture by Michelangelo takes a place of honor in this large hall:




OK, we have departed the Salone. All of the following pictures are from subsequent rooms.





One of the things I like about many Italian stairways is the use of these heavy cords. I like the way they look and the way they draw on Italian textile traditions.


The St. John’s Day Fireworks have been an ongoing Florentine tradition for centuries. It was fun to see this painting depict it from the 16th century.




Here’s another fanciful coat of arts for the Medici family, this one in fresco:

And putti carry the crown that will sit on Medici heads:









Here is the original Verrocchio statue. A copy sits in its original place in an open courtyard on the ground floor.























Eleonora’s private chapel is a gorgeously painted small room:










Zeroing in on beauty

















































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