Palazzo Medici-Riccardi, Firenze

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The palace of the De’ Medici Family has a troubled history.

When Filippo Brunelleschi presented his project of a palazzo to Cosimo De’ Medici, the latter considered it to be too fancy and gave up the idea.

Then came the draft by Michelozzo Michelozzo, Donatello’s pupil, but this time the Florentines said ‘No’ to what at the time must have seemed an urban mess in the San Lorenzo district.

Finally, the works began with the erection of the famous ashlar walls (with protruding stones), the small and narrow windows with grates, heavy doors, all aimed at intimidating everyone who passed or entered the building.

However, beyond the heavy door, the building takes on a much kinder style, with a courtyard that is a real open-air museum with sarcophagi, inscriptions and statues. 

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In 1659, Gabbriello Riccardi, Marquis of Chianti, became the owner of Palazzo Medici and sold it to the Lorenas, the Grand Dukes of Tuscany, in 1814. After many renovations, it became the seat of the administrative offices and headquarters of the Interior Ministry, in the period when Florence was capital of Italy, between 1865 and 1870.

Since 1874, the Medici Palace is the seat of the Province of Florence and also a museum with works such as the Magi Chapel with frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli.

Epiphany in Florence

Sunday, 6 January, was a beautiful sunny day in Florence!  And the city was celebrating big-time with the annual cavalcade parade.  I’ve posted about this in years past, so I won’t repeat myself.  But, behold the views of Florence on that gorgeous day!

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The Arno river was as smooth as glass:

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And, when all the festivities were finished, these balloons were released to mark the day!

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Bellisimo!

Florence never was a pansy!

“Florence is not as delicate or demure as most travel brochures and coffee-table books might lead us to think.

“The city has a vivid, volatile history—Christian martyrs thrown to lions, neighborhood clans engaged in bloody vendettas in the streets, poorly paid wool-workers rioting in the marketplaces until their voices were heard in the powerful guild halls.

“Florence is a dollhouse setting for much of the theater of Italian social history—in fact, for much of the social history of the Western World.

“Money-making, church-building, and nobility-feuding were the activities of primary importance in the newly cosmopolitan Florence of the thirteenth century. Frescoes, paintings, statues, murals, and tapestries were the artistic accessories to a world that was waking up to self-expression, creativity, vanity, materialism, and physical adornment. The great artworks, the churches, the palaces, the commercial life, and the very shape and pattern of the city were all products of an extraordinary group of men and women who have lived and earned a living here.

“In the first two centuries before Christ, Florence (or Florentia) was little more than a factory town and Roman port. Iron making was probably the chief industry. Ore that was extracted on the island of Elba and shipped up to Pisa was brought down along the wide stretch of the Arno to Florentia.

“Overlooking the port and its activities was the Etruscan town of Fiesole. The Etruscans were a proud group of people who traced their ancestors back to Asian nomads and Sandon, the king of Babylonia.

“When and how they settled in Italy are unresolved matters, but at some time a delegation from southern Lydia in AsiaMinor may have been responsible for introducing Greek art and culture into their lives. Depictions of Hercules, equipped with his bow and metal mace, have been found in Etruscan tombs, and his lion is still part of the emblem of Florence today.

“Fiesole was captured by Roman armies in the second century B.C. Three concentric walls were built around the hilltop, and a fourth wall extended down to Florentia and the Arno.

“The entrances to this enormous citadel were along the river’s edge. Three gates, spaced a mile apart, were the only access to the occupied town.

“The Roman general Sulla parceled out tracts of Florentia to members of his twenty-three legions. The soldiers, in turn, showed their allegiance to the mother city, Rome, by building a miniature copy complete with a Field of Mars, a Forum, a Temple of Mars, baths, a theater, an amphitheater, and an aqueduct.

“Fiesole, meanwhile, played a very different role. The town became the center of soothsaying in the Roman world. Long known for its skilled body of priests trained in the rites of sacrifice and divination, Fiesole annually welcomed twelve Roman youths who were sent to the hillside temples to study augury. In the first century A.D., Pliny remembers the auspicious sight of a Fiesolan entering the gates of Rome accompanied by his seventy-four sons and grandsons and a commission to carry out some serious soothsaying.”

 

Source: Holler, Anne. Florencewalks: Four Intimate Walking Tours of Florence’s Most Historic and Enchanting Neighborhoods (Kindle Locations 65-68). Henry Holt and Co.. Kindle Edition.

 

Foods in Paris

So, I was lucky enough to take a guided tour through the old market streets of Montmartre. OMG.  Hang on!

First stop: an artisan boulangerie:

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Next stop, a cheese shop:

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Then we chose a shop for dessert, a fruit tart:

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There’s more to come, but we need to pace ourselves!

We 3 Kings of Orient are: FÊTE DES ROIS

FÊTE DES ROIS

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The official end of the Christmas season is the Fête des Rois, or the Three Kings’ Day (Epiphany), and is celebrated throughout France with the galette des rois, or king cake. It’s a flaky pastry generally filled with frangipan (an almond cream), and hidden inside is a fève (tiny baby figurine). Whoever gets the piece with the fève gets to be the king or queen for the day. Most bakeries sell the cakes with a paper crown.

While in Italy:

A completely different approach!  Befana and Epiphany parade: watch this space!

Hot chocolate and Florence

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Did you know that hot chocolate is a Florentine tradition? From its first appearance at the Medici court in the 16th century, the city’s nobles went crazy for the bitter drink, which was served instead of wine or water at meals in Palazzo Pitti.

It experienced a second moment of importance in the 19th century, when some of the city’s now-historic bars served it to travelers, aristocrats and intelligentsia. I recently learned about Hot Chocolate in Florence on a thematic tour of the city with Francesca from the cultural association Tre Passi Per Firenze, organized by Yelp Firenze, and I’ve asked her to tell us more about it. The article below is composed thanks to her research, with my words.

 

History of chocolate in Florence: where and whom

Christopher Columbus may have sailed the ocean blue in 1492 but it took him until his fourth expedition, in 1502, to discover chocolate. The nice people of the island of Guanaja in Honduras sent some home with him, having also served it to him as a drink, which he found disgusting. Cortés did a better job of diffusing the love for chocolate, having found it in Mexico in 1519 and imported it to Spain in 1528. It took half a century until it became regularly available in Europe – Italy was the second country to adopt it.

The “gift from the gods” was prepared as a drink – the possibility to make chocolate harden into a bar came only later – following the methods brought back via Cortés. The seeds of the cacao were ground into a powder and combined with boiled water to make a bitter drink. Early reports say it was healthy and provided much energy. Its success in European cities, including Florence, was that it provided an alternative to wine and beer when the water couldn’t be drunk unless boiled. It wasn’t entirely to the taste of Italians until combined with cane sugar: Girolamo Benzoni, an important merchant, said in the middle of the 16th century that it wasn’t fit for men but for pigs. He changed his mind when he tasted the sugared version.

For the entire article, see:  http://www.arttrav.com/florence/hot-chocolate-in-florence/?fbclid=IwAR3VY-ISIIyTJAYdhw66QfRu9_vXl4d0GlceJWeGyZNI0yuooevWH_gyjbY

Les Marais, part 3: Jardin Saint-Gilles-Grand-Veneur-Pauline-Roland

Le Mairie de Paris is full of fascinating things!  I’ve already posted twice about Les Marais and there is still more to discuss.

One the 9 Rue du Grand Veneur is located another small, lovely garden: the Jardin Saint-Gilles-Grand-Veneur-Pauline-Roland. The name is a homage, in part, “ à Pauline Roland (1805-1852), une féministe socialiste française.”

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Tucked away within a maze of narrow streets, far from the hustle and bustle of modern Paris, is this little known, rarely visited, but utterly charming haven of peace – the Jardin Saint-Gilles-Grand-Veneur, with its magnificent view of the façade of the Hôtel du Grand Veneur townhouse. Visitors come here is for some peace and quiet, or to settle down on the stone benches in the lovely rose arbor for some calm.

The mansion surrounding the small garden is the Hôtel du Grand Veneur,  a prestigious 17th-century mansion in Le Marais. Listed in the Register of Historic Monuments since 1925, the building consists of three buildings forming a U around a large paved courtyard, in which is located the garden.

In 1733, Vincent Hennequin who was the captain who organized the king’s hunts, purchased the mansion. He had many hunt-related images carved and applied to the decorations of the Hôtel.

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The hotel was confiscated during the French Revolution; it was then purchased in 1823 by the Franciscan ladies of St. Elisabeth who occupied it until 1901.

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As impressive as this mansion is, it was the garden that drew me in.

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And, here it is!  Remember it was a cold December morning I paid my visit, but the garden had its charms even then.

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I wasn’t the only person drawn to this fine garden that day.  I saw a fashion photography shoot happening in the courtyard.

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Germany has the moral duty to return a painting to Florence, according to the Uffizi’s (German) director

Director of the Uffizi Galleries, Eike Schmidt, has kicked off the new year with an appeal: return a painting stolen from the Palazzo Pitti’s collections by Nazi soldiers, healing a 75-year-old wound that is not uncommon in the post-war art world.

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During their retreat in 1944, Wehrmacht soldiers removed Vase of Flowers by Jan van Huysum, along with several other still-life masterpieces from the 17th and 18th centuries, from the Villa Bossi-Pucci, where it was transferred in 1943, having previously been on display in the Palatine Gallery since 1824.

The artwork was eventually brought to Germany, where it ended up in the hands of an unidentified family.

Though its whereabouts were unknown for decades, following reunification in 1991, several intermediaries came forward on behalf of the family to demand the Italian authorities pay to have the painting returned.

These attempts were unsuccessful and Florence’s district attorney’s office eventually concluded that the painting belongs to the Italian State, and so it cannot be bought.

“Germany must abolish its law regarding paintings stolen during the war,” says Schmidt, referring to the statute of limitations preventing prosecution for crimes committed more than 30 years ago, “and ensure that these works be returned to their rightful owners. Germany has a moral duty to return this work to our museum, and I hope that the German state will do so as soon as possible, along with every other work of art stolen by the Nazis.”

Underlining Schmidt’s plea is a black and white reproduction of the painting newly on display in the Sala dei Putti in Palazzo Pitti, alongside an Italian, English and German-language panel explaining that the work was stolen in 1944.

The article above is taken from http://www.theflorentine.net/news/2019/01/return-stolen-artwork-uffizi/?mc_cid=d17a9ccafa&mc_eid=2a398b6f2f