Orsanmichele, Firenze, 11 Dicembre 2017

My subtitle would be: I love Florence in the winter!

I wandered into Orsanmichele today and had the masterpiece all to myself.  I lit candles for some beloved family members and took a pew, gazing at Orcagna’s magnificent altarpiece for a long, long time.  It was a gorgeous moment in Florence, the kind of thing I live for.

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I started thinking about the name: Orsanmichele.  It is not a common name for a church.  What is the significance, I wondered?

“San Michele” or Saint Michael is easy to extract from the name, but I had to head to Wikipedia for the full answer.  Orsanmichele (or “Kitchen Garden of St. Michael“, from the contraction in Tuscan dialect of the Italian word orto) is a church that was constructed on the site of the kitchen garden of the monastery of San Michele, which no longer exists.

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Located on the Via Calzaiuoli in Florence, the square building was constructed as a grain depository and market in 1337 by Francesco Talenti, Neri di Fioravante, and Benci di Cione.

Between 1380 and 1404, the building was converted into a church, to be used as the chapel of Florence’s powerful craft and trade guilds.

From the exterior, the ground floor contains the 13th-century arches that originally formed the loggia of the grain market.

The second floor was devoted to offices, while the third housed one of the city’s municipal grain storehouses, maintained to withstand famine or siege.

Late in the 14th century, the guilds were charged by the city to commission statues of their patron saints to embellish the four facades of the church.[1]’

Orsanmichele’s sculptures are a relic of the fierce devotion and pride of Florentine trades, and a reminder that great art often arises out of a competitive climate. Each trade hoped to outdo the other in commissioning original, groundbreaking sculptures for public display on Florence’s most important street, and the artists hired and materials used (especially bronze) indicate the importance that was placed on this site.

The Renaissance sculptures have been removed to museums, but faithful copies of each work of art have been placed in the niches.

Another day I will illustrate the niche sculptures, but today I felt like sitting inside the church and studying Andrea Orcagna‘s seemingly bejeweled Gothic Tabernacle (1355-59), which encases a repainting by Bernardo Daddi‘s of an older icon, the ‘Madonna and Child’.[2]

I don’t think there are actual jewels in the tabernacle, but the encrusted mosaics make it seem that way.

One of the first things I noticed is that the exterior of the cupola of the altarpiece is shaped and decorated like a Fabrege egg.  You can see what I mean in the photo below.

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Here’s a detailed look at the egg shape, right behind the triangle of the facade:

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If you are ever fortunate enough to spend the winter in Florence, you can enjoy Orsanmichele all to yourself as well.  Here’s info on opening hours.  The museum on the upper floor is NOT to be missed.

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Bringing up baby

The year is 1934.  My uncle is born. Say hello to Kenneth Dale Dimmick.

My grandmother, Lauretta, started Kenneth’s baby book.  Last week my cousin and I went on a walk down memory lane, even if they weren’t our memories.  Neither of us were even a distant thought in 1934.

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My uncle’s baby book is a delight to behold, a window into the 1930s.

It also provides a window into infant development, as reckoned in the period.  To wit: see the following helpful hints on bringing up baby:

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Shockingly, at least to 21st century mores, is the “helpful hint” about mid-way down the page above.  “Never play with baby till over six months–then seldom.  Excitement harms.” OMG!  Child abuse and neglect.

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According to his baby book, Kenneth’s first word was “dadda,” which is interesting to me because it was also my son’s first word.  I suspect it is the first word most babies in America form first–not from father love, but because it is easy to form.  My son started with “dah” and repeated it, apropos of nothing.  In other words, he said this word even when his father was no where near him.

Apparently Kenneth’s good friend was Mary Lou.  My Grandmother wrote “a pair of 4 yr. olds” next to their picture, and no other child made it into Kenneth’s book.

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I loved browsing through this relic.

A child’s birthday party, 1930s

I’m sure we’ve all received cute birthday party invitations.  Just look at this sweet one from my uncle’s baby book:

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Did you catch the date?  1934.  The heart of the Great Depression.  Hard to imagine.

But, although we’ve all been invited to children’s birthday party, I don’t know about you, but I’ve never been to a party like this that was later written up in the social pages of the local newspaper.

Well, be that as it may, Miss Mary Lou Hellman’s “4th birthday anniversary” party was written up in the paper and here it is:

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I’m happy to know that Mary Lou’s mother served “a delectable menu” and that “interesting games” were played.

I daresay this was the first time my 4 year old uncle’s name was published in the paper: Kenneth Dimmick.

What a hoot!