Lovely Calabrian bergamot: the scent of a spring morning in Italy

After enjoying the beautiful sight of potted lemon trees all over Villa Gambreia yesterday, as here:

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I started musing about one of my favorite subjects: citrus in Italy in general.  These ramblings always bring me quickly to thoughts of bergamot, the scent of which I adore.  In fact, I wear it everyday in this form:

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I adore the fragrance of bergamot! It has been described as “the scent of a spring morning in Italy, of mountain narcissus and citrus blossom after rain.”

I’ve still to see the actual fruit, but I’m going to eventually.  Even if it kills me.  Which I don’t think it will.  I think it just means a (much wanted) 2nd trip (for me, in this lifetime) to Calabria.

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Let’s consult an expert on bergamot:

“Wherever citrus trees are gathered together, whether in open ground or the shelter of a limonaia, they cross-pollinate and over time varieties develop that are peculiar to their setting.

“The first of Calabria’s unique and valuable fruits is bergamot (Citrus bergamia), the product of a natural cross-pollination between a lemon tree and a sour orange that occurred in Calabria in the mid-seventeenth century.

“Essential oil can be extracted from the bergamot’s fruit, and although its extremely high value has inspired many attempts to grow it elsewhere, bergamot is like an animal in its chosen territory: it thrives and fruits successfully only on a thin strip of coastline that runs for seventy-five kilometres from Villa San Giovanni on the Tyrrhenian coast to Brancaleone on the shores of the Ionian Sea.

“Here the tree grows tall and strong, and bears such heavy crops that its brittle branches often snap under the weight of oily fruit. Take it away from its home ground and you make it a perpetual invalid, incapable of tolerating the cold or weathering strong winds.

“Only one thing is certain: its first appearance anywhere in the world was in the mid-seventeenth century in Calabria.

“Drive south from Reggio Calabria towards Bova Marina and you can see bergamot trees on the narrow plain between the foothills of the Aspromonte mountains and the sea. They grow in glistening, dark green swathes between dramatic plugs of volcanic rock and on narrow terraces cut from a sheer cliff face.

“The trees have large glossy leaves similar to a lemon’s and bitter fruit that ripens from green to yellow and is the size and shape of an orange. Anything goes in a bergamot grove. Trees are pruned very lightly only once a year and some of them grow to over four metres high. They are carefree, liberated, untidy and entirely organic, the hippies of the citrus world. It is the essential oil stored in the pores just beneath the surface of the skin that makes bergamot so valuable.

“Ever since the beginning of the eighteenth century the principal and most lucrative use of this oil has been as a fixing agent in the perfume industry. The addition of bergamot oil makes a perfume last longer and brings all its other elements into harmony, rather like the conductor of an orchestra.

“Any essential oil extracted from fruit produced outside Calabria’s bergamot belt is of inferior quality.

“When bergamot first appeared in Calabria it was immediately appreciated for its blossom, which has a stronger scent than any other zagara. The bitter fruit was not considered edible, but bergamots were planted as ornamental trees in the gardens of villas in its homeland near the regional capital, Reggio Calabria.”

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Attlee, Helena (2015-01-05). The Land Where Lemons Grow: The Story of Italy and Its Citrus Fruit (Kindle Locations 2280-2286). Countryman Press. Kindle Edition.

Paradise found.

I have never seen anything more beautiful in my life than what I saw/experienced today in Settignano.  The combination of elements was astounding:  perfect weather, perfectly blue sky, warm sunshine, antique architecture and garden elements, gorgeous plantings of white and lavender colored wisteria. Add tranquility and birdsong.  For me, it is the ideal combination of parts.  It makes paradise.

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The Tuscan stripe, Pistoia and beyond

I love the dark green and cream colored striped churches found throughout Tuscany!

This past weekend I went to Pistoia for the first time and look what I saw!

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San Giovanni Fuoricivitas

Above and below, the Romanesque church of San Giovanni Fuoricivitas, (12th–14th century)

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Then there is the Duomo and the beautiful 14th century Baptistry in the Piazza.

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Baptistry, Pistoia

 

Across the Piazza del Duomo sits Il Duomo with its beautiful campanile.

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The Cathedral of San Zeno was started in the 5th century, but the building we see today took shape in the 12th century.  While the facade is Romanesque, the duomo’s interior is all Baroque.

The iconic Romanesque campanile, standing at some 67 metres (220 ft), was erected over an ancient Lombard tower.

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Andrea della Robbia designed the beautiful and prominent glazed ceramic sculptures over the central doorway.

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As you walk through the lovely, medieval city center, you run across several typical Tuscan Gothic/Romanesque churches.  The one above is Sant’ Andrea.  I’ll be writing more about it soon.

 

 

 

 

Citrus and Sicily and D.H. Lawrence

 

 

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D. H. Lawrence began the period of voluntary exile after WWI that he referred to as his ‘savage pilgrimage’, a journey that took him to Sicily between 1920 and 1922. In ‘Sun’, a short story set in his sexually charged version of the Sicilian landscape, he returns again and again to images of citrus trees and their fruit, making Juliet, the angry and frustrated American heroine, meander naked through a ‘dark underworld of lemons’, discovering freedom and sensuality for the first time in her life.

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Attlee, Helena (2015-01-05). The Land Where Lemons Grow: The Story of Italy and Its Citrus Fruit (Kindle Locations 56-59). Countryman Press. Kindle Edition.

World’s 1st museum open to the public, Florence. “Dress decently and leave your sword at the door.”

When the son of Francis I, Duke of Lorraine, Pietro Leopoldo arrived in Florence, he found the majority of the people shockingly uneducated, their lives blighted by famine and the inefficient bureaucracy, high taxes and old-fashioned legal system imposed by the Medici and left unreformed by his father, who succeeded the Medici as rulers.

Pietro Leopoldo modelled his new administration on Enlightenment principles, taking it upon himself to disseminate information about science and the natural world in the belief that knowledge was a tool that could be used to combat suffering, superstition and tyranny.

He believed in giving the citizens of Florence a chance to educate themselves, and to this end he founded a new science and natural history museum called La Specola [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Specola] on Via Romana, the narrow street that runs from Palazzo Pitti to the Porta Romana.

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When its doors opened in 1775, La Specola was the first museum in the world to be accessible to the general public, although initially a distinction was made between the lower classes, who could enter between eight and ten in the morning, ‘if decently dressed’, and ‘the intelligent and well educated’, who had free access from one o’clock, as long as they removed swords and overcoats and left them by the door.

Attlee, Helena (2015-01-05). The Land Where Lemons Grow: The Story of Italy and Its Citrus Fruit (Kindle Locations 221-224). Countryman Press. Kindle Edition.

Hans Christian Andersen sees Italy for the first time: “here is Paradise!”

 

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Hans Christian Andersen, the Danish author and poet best known for his fairytales, visited Italy in 1833, and when he saw citrus groves for the first time he responded with the mixture of rapture and envy that Italy can still provoke among visitors from colder and less romantic countries.  He wrote to a friend:

“Just imagine the beautiful ocean and entire forests

with oranges and lemons,

the ground was covered with them; mignonettes and gillyflowers

grew like weeds.

My God, my God!

How unfairly we are

treated in the north; here, here is Paradise.”

Attlee, Helena (2015-01-05). The Land Where Lemons Grow: The Story of Italy and Its Citrus Fruit (Kindle Locations 47-48). Countryman Press. Kindle Edition.