Was it worth the wait?

When I was a very young art historian in training, I fell head over heels in love with Italy. I’ve been pulled to Italy by some big magnet within my being pretty much my whole life.  That magnetic pull is not something anyone can see, but everyone who knows me knows I feel.

And one of the objects of my desire has been the experience of walking through the so called Vasari Corridor that begins on an upper level of the Uffizi Gallery, snakes over the Ponte Vecchio, and travels all the way to the Palazzo Pitti on the other side of the Arno.

And while I have known for decades that the Corridor exists and is filled with treasure, and that only the elite and their entourages could access this long above-ground long, long hallway, I was not sure I would ever have the opportunity to view it myself.  I might have had a chance in the early days of my career, when I was a Fellow at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, for then I had a hand signed letter from the Met’s director, Phillipe de Montebello, which worked pretty much like “open seasame” all around the world back then.

The letter invited anyone I presented it to allow me access for whatever I was asking for in the world of art.  Coming from arguably the most important person in the art world at the time, the French director of New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, that letter had weight, figuratively as well as literally.  I saw how people reacted to it.  The letter was on thick, hand-made, old world letterstock, with the Met’s letterhead engraved upon it, and a gold seal affixed to it.  That letter allowed me to climb the scaffolding erected for the conservators to clean the Sistine Chapel ceiling.  That is how I can to be 5 inches away from Michelangelo’s “Drunkenness of Noah” panel, an experience I will never forget.

But as I was preparing for this winter, my winter in Italy that I have dreamed of almost all of my life, I discovered that the Vasari Corridor is now more or less open and that one can make a reservation in advance online and then visit.  I have one of those tickets, and I am going there tomorrow, on my birthday.  Happy Birthday to me!

I’ll let you know if it was worth the wait!

If you enjoy my blog (and I really hope that you do!)

then you gotta make a comment in the comment section. Duh?!  Where else would you make it?

Some of my friends (and you know who you are) are following my exploits and extravaganzas via this blog, and while that is great, and just what I wanted, etc. etc. etc., a girl needs a little feedback!

You feel closer to me.

But I am left wondering who stopped by.

Leave a calling card, at least!

Grazie mille!

La tua amica,

Lauretta

I have an announcement to make!

In the past few months, I feel like I’ve had a lot of good luck. One of the very best things found in this good fortune has been making a virtual friendship with a real life all ’round good egg and fellow-blogger, Lia, author of the deliciously divine Lifestyleswithlia.com.

Lia and I share a love of all things Italian as well as all things New York. As if it were not enough that Lia is a faithful reader of my blog, her much-appreciated comments are always perceptive and creative in their own right.  But to top things off, Lia just nominated me for the  “Sisterhood of the World Bloggers Award” for my humble and often random scribblings on this little-old blog of mine.

Wow!  Thanks Lia!  I am touched!

Here are the guidelines for the “Sisterhood of the World Bloggers Award”:

Provide the link to the person who nominated you.

With pleasure!  http://lifestyleswithlia.wordpress.com/2015/01/02/award-winning-kindness/comment-page-1/#comment-660
Add the reward logo.

No problem, here ya go:

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Answer the questions your nominator has asked.

Okay, they are:

1. What is your “go-to” dinner when there isn’t time to cook?

PB on crackers

2. What is one item that you’ve gotten rid of that you wish you would’ve kept instead?

one of my husbands

3. If you were stranded on a desert island, what would you want to have with you to read (while waiting for the rescue helicopter to arrive)?

the entire Trixie Belden series, as that set of books is probably responsible for me being in this predicament in the first place

4. What is the spiciest thing you’ve ever eaten? Where were you when you ate it?

I recently drank a caffe correto here in Florence and it set my mouth and throat on fire. It was an espresso with a shot of grappa and it was awful!  I hated it!  It was like drinking gasoline.

5. You are given only 2 choices of career: either Professional Surfer or Professional Birdwatcher. Which would you choose?

Birdwatcher for sure.  For two reasons: there are lots of pretty birds to look at and I am afraid of the water.
Nominate 5 other bloggers, let them know via comments, and ask each nominee 5 questions.

OK, I’m gonna put my thinking cap on and nominate my bloggers and ask their questions tomorrow.

In the meantime, grazie mille a Lia! Sono molto felice!

What do you do when you have the flu?

When the day is bright and sunny, but you can’t join it because you can’t stop coughing and sneezing and running a slight fever, what do you do?

Well, I cook a pot roast. Perche no?  The fragrance alone lifts my spirits.

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You have to operate like a girl scout, and always be prepared.  When you are at the supermarket and you see the following brilliant item of a prepackaged mix of 4 celery stalks, 2 carrots, 1 onion, parsley springs and cilantro springs  (why didn’t grocers in the US think of this??) you toss it in your cart just in case.

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And you locate some beef for roasting or a chicken for stewing.

Already you feel better even if you are still coughing and sneezing.

Then, when you walk by the frozen food section and see this:

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And you think to yourself, “Flowers of milk” umm, that sounds like a delicious flavor of gelato, so you bring it home.  And not only is it delicious, but you find all sorts of inventive ways to use it.  For one, you put a hunk in a glass of coca cola (another treat for the season) and enjoy a float like the good old days.  And, you discover that a slice of frozen gelato on the top of a crisp, Italian cookie makes a fabulous sandwich.

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Scanning the aisles of the supermercato is a fun way for me to spend an hour of any day of the week.  I couldn’t resist this seasonal butter, make from a holiday recipe, according to the packaging, which is complete with an image of holly.  I haven’t used the butter yet, but I’ll let you know how it is.

And, alas, the panettoni and pandori are now priced at a steep discount.  Before Xmas, pandoro was a little over 5 Euro.  Now, 1.5 Euro.  Sigh. Christmas is over :-((

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But you’ll have to excuse me now, because I have to cough and sneeze and wrap myself up in my electric blanket and possibly slice some gelato to fit this cookie I’m holding.

Happy New Year!!

European drivers.

Europeans, like some Americans, drive on the right side of the road, except in England, where they drive on both sides of the road; France, where they drive up on the sidewalk; and Italy, where if necessary, they will follow you right into the hotel lobby.    Dave Barry

Also by Dave Barry: The only rule that I could discern governing Italian drivers–enforceable by punishment by death–was this one: No car whatsoever is allowed to remain behind another car.

Presepio, Italian for nativity scene

Truly, the loveliest and most impressive presepio I’ve ever seen is the one shown annually at this time of year at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.  And of course, don’t you know, like a lot of the best stuff ever made, the entire set of figures and accoutrements came from Italy! Baroque Neapolitan Italy in this case. It just all makes sense!

Everybody knows the Met is one of the smartest institutions on planet earth and it is just brilliant that they combine their gorgeous presepio with a towering, elegant 20 foot tall Christmas tree.

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All presepios (presipi in Italian) or Nativity scenes include figures representing the baby Jesus with his mother Mary and Joseph. Other characters as described in the gospel of Luke are often found in a presepio, such as shepherds and sheep, angels and a manger in a barn or cave intended to house farm animals. Usually a donkey and an ox are included as well as the Magi and camels that brought them to Bethlehem as described in the gospel of Matthew.

Italy, France, and other traditionally Catholic countries have, over the centuries, added an array of other characters and objects to their Nativity scenes, some of which may or may not be be found in the Biblical descriptions.

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The Met’s 18th-century Baroque Neapolitan Nativity scene contains a profuse array of diminutive, lifelike attendant figures and silk-robed angels hovering above alight all over the surface of the tree.  More than 200 figures comprise the set and were given to the Museum by Loretta Hines Howard starting in 1964 (you gotta love another Loretta!). The presipio and tree have been displayed each holiday season for nearly 40 years.

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The following is taken from the MMA’s website description of their presepio:

“The Museum’s towering tree, glowing with light, is adorned with cherubs and some fifty gracefully suspended angels. The landscape at the base displays the figures and scenery of the Neapolitan Christmas crib. This display mingles the three basic elements traditional in eighteenth-century Naples: the Nativity, with adoring shepherds and their flocks; the procession of the three Magi and their exotically dressed retinue of Asians and Africans; and, most distinctively, a crowd of colorful townspeople and peasants. The theatrical scene is enhanced by a charming assortment of animals—sheep, goats, horses, a camel, and an elephant—and by background pieces serving as the dramatic setting for the Nativity, including the ruins of a Roman temple, several quaint houses, and a typical Italian fountain with a lion’s-mask waterspout.


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The origin of the popular Christmas custom of restaging the Nativity traditionally is credited to Saint Francis of Assisi. The employment of manmade figures to reenact the hallowed events soon developed and reached its height of complexity and artistic excellence in eighteenth-century Naples. There, local families vied to outdo each other in presenting elaborate and theatrical presepios, often assisted by professional stage directors. The finest sculptors of the period—including Giuseppe Sammartino and his pupils Salvatore di Franco, Giuseppe Gori, and Angelo Viva—were called on to model the terracotta heads and shoulders of the extraordinary crèche figures.


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The Museum’s presepio figures, each a work of art, range from 6 to 20 inches in height. They have articulated bodies of tow and wire, heads and shoulders modeled in terracotta and polychromed to perfection. The luxurious and colorful costumes, many of which are original, were often sewn by ladies of the collecting families and enriched by jewels, embroideries, and elaborate accessories, including gilded censers, scimitars and daggers, and silver filigree baskets. The placement of the approximately fifty large angels on the Christmas tree and the composition of the crèche figures and landscape vary slightly from year to year as new figures are added.”


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Many years ago, when I was a Chester Dale Fellow at the Met, I had the privilege of working daily in that great American museum in my small but divine office space while researching and writing my doctoral dissertation.  As the days grew shorter and the museum got darker –earlier and earlier in late afternoons early evenings– I could sense that the winter holidays were upon us. Every year, before Thanksgiving, the Met’s staff were hard at work sectioning off the area of the museum when the presipio and tree are annually installed.  Careful spacing and timing are required to raise the precious installation.


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As noted in the MMA description above, Saint Francis of Assisi is credited with having created the 1st known Nativity scene in 1223, having been inspired by his recent visit to the Holy Land and seeing the site of Jesus’s traditional birth. The scene Saint Francis created was a living scene, a tableaux vivant, that is, using living people and animals to portray the Biblical account.The scene’s popularity inspired communities throughout Catholic countries to stage similar pantomimes.  You can find similar enactments throughout the Christmas services of thousands of American churches today.

Ciao, ragazzi!  Buona notte!