Today, by pure serendipity, I had the incredible opportunity to observe one of the hallowed ceremonies performed annually in Florence. It was the first time I’ve ever been present for this event and I must admit I am still kind of stunned that I caught it at all, let alone that I caught ALL of it!

On this day we remember Girolamo Savonarola, the consequential friar who could be said to have played with fire.

The photo above shows the plaque that is installed in the pavement in the Piazza della Signoria, marking the spot where the friar was executed in 1494. It was a gruesome end for the priest: he was first hanged and then burned, as were 2 of his devotees.

Every year, on the morning of the anniversary of his death, there is a Renaissance era type parade from the Palazzo della Parte Guelfa to the main governmental square known as the Piazza della Signoria. The parade stops in front of the Palazzo Vecchio where a gorgeous floral wreath is ceremoniously laid on the plaque which marks the spot where the burning took place.

It was in this self same square where, at the height of his power, he held the infamous Bonfire of the Vanities during the periods of Lent in 1497 and 1498. Non-Christian books, artworks depicting any subjects not sanctioned by the church, and objects of earthly passion and distraction, such as cards, precious fabrics, jewelry, make-up and wigs, were burned in the square on a platform made of seven steps, symbolizing the Seven Vices.

Savonarola was an extremely influential preacher who had called for great reforms of the church at the beginning of his career in Florence, which provoked anger from Pope Alexander VI. In 1491 Savonarola was made prior of San Marco monastery in Florence and his ascent to power began. Soon he was preaching in the city’s cathedral and his influence spread like wildfire. When the Medici family was thrown out of Florence in 1494, due to a sharp decline in its popularity after the death of Lorenzo the Magnificent de’ Medici and the incompetence of his son Piero, Savonarola filled the power void and substituted a theocratic government for the humanist thought and neo-platonic philosophy of the former regime.

Savonarola reorganized the city-state’s government and, inspired by the model of Venice, increased political representation to 1500 people. He then commissioned an extension to the town hall, the Salone del ‘500, where the newly enlarged government could meet. He referred to this room as the Hall of Christ.

His sermons increased in religious fervor and he claimed that Christ was speaking through him. He attacked the papacy, who initially offered him a cardinal’s hat to silence him. He rejected this and was excommunicated. The Pope’s son, Cesare Borgia, was the head of the papal army and came to Florence where a forced confession was taken from the friar, followed by his execution in the town square.

The ashes of Savonarola and his two followers were carted away and scattered in the Arno river, in order to prevent devotees from searching for relics, although the cult of Savonarola continued throughout the 16th century. The morning after the executions, flower petals covered the area where the event took place. Nowadays a commemorating plaque (near the Neptune fountain) indicates the exact point where Savonarola was executed and is annually commemorated.

Visitors to the beautiful San Marco monastery can enter his cell where many of the sermons would have been written and can see the bell that used to call the Florentines to hear him speak. This bell was exiled to the dreaded enemy of the Dominicans, the Franciscan church San Salvatore al Monte, after his death. A few years later the Gonfaloniere Pier Soderini, head of the Republic, in an act of clemency, returned the bell to the Dominicans.

In commemoration of Savonarola, whom many Florentines respect greatly for his early efforts to reform the corrupt Catholic Church, a traditional parade and laying of a wreath takes place on May 23 of each year. It has taken place annually since the Renaissance, not counting periods such as the World Wars, etc. Known as La Fiorita, on May 23rd rose petals and flowers are placed on the plaque in Piazza della Signoria. This event is officially celebrated with a 10 am mass inside the Priori’s Chapel in Palazzo Vecchio, followed at 10.30 by the Fiorata, and at 11 the historical parade proceeds to the Ponte Vecchio where a Florentine woman from the parade throws more rose petals in the Arno river.

Today I had the opportunity to walk by the Renaissance architectural masterpiece known as the Ospedale dell’ Innocente, which was a Medieval orphanage, and is seen above.

Much to my surprise I saw the loggia of the Ospedale being used for something rather unusual, although it made perfect sense and I thought how lucky these aspiring artists were to be standing in this space and practicing their craft.

The instructor seemed to be the man in the foreground in a blue baseball cap.

These painters were really very good!

Upon leaving the loggia I walked through this covered roadway in the historic center of Florence. I have always loved this vaulted passage and it looked extra good today with the big green tree on the left side from the exquisite little garden attached to the Archaeological Museum. I couldn’t resist catching a few images.

Sometimes life is just too good to be true. (And sometimes it’s the reverse.) Case in point: the British Institute in Florence hosts a weekly bridge game for new and somewhat experienced players once a week. If I had sat at home in the USA and tried to dream up something in Florence that would make me happy right this minute, it would be this bridge group!

The fearless leader is Gustavo de Santis, who is wickedly intelligent and equally funny. His dry humor can catch you unaware. I enjoy him immensely. You see him showing his students how to bid a game below. He is a professor at a local university.

The British Institute in Florence is a haven for long-term residents who speak English. It has a long and storied history in the city and is housed in a magnificent palazzo. Just going there makes me happy. Just look at it, sitting proudly on the left bank of the Arno!

We are so lucky to play our bridge games in the Ferragamo room at the library. I didn’t have a chance to get any good shots on this day, but I snapped a few of the beautiful ceiling.

In the long hallways are hung pictures of notable Brits. I love this juxtaposition of William and Elizabeth. You know the last names, right?

It’s possible to visit Elizabeth’s home in Florence. Just thinking about her here is a romantic exercise. She has a beautiful white marble monument marking her gravesite in the English cemetery in Florence, which I recently posted about.

Here’s the exterior of the palazzo she lived in. I’ve visited it and the interior is just about what you’d expect for a 19th century ex pat to decorate in Italy.

And William needs nothing said by me.

Sigh. Life is very very good. Alla prossima!

On some days the sunlight is stunning as it hits some of Florence’s main monuments. In my humble opinion, there was never a finer Renaissance facade than Santa Maria Novella and on this afternoon, it was reflecting the sunlight in a very gorgeous manner. At times like this, I am compelled to snap some pix.

And then there is the duomo and bell tower. Now, it is important to keep in mind that the facade of the cathedral is from the 19th century, not the Renaissance, but the bell tower is purely Medieval and very, very Florentine. Art historians are not supposed to like the church facade because it isn’t old enough, but in this sunlight, it was quite amazing! :-))

Twice a year at this wonderful little garden on the north end of Florence a plant show/sale is held. Every spring and fall you can find a gorgeous display of horticultural wonders for sale at very good prices and meet knowledgeable people! It’s a thrill I never want to miss.

Below the video shows the entrance to the recent spring sale.

A little further back into the garden and we come upon the highlight of this garden, the 19th century glass house. It is beautiful! I come back again and again to admire this structure. It has a small grotto inside and nowadays is used to house certain public functions. There is also a branch of the city library here and I used to live in this neighborhood and took advantage of the glass house and the library often.

The booth shown below features two plants: clematis and iris. Two spring favorites! And some white roses.

Below, I never get over the novelty of growing citrus! I tried my hand at one plant a few years ago and it failed.

The other architectural feature in this fine, small garden is this Renaissance style loggia. I love it!

Do you like azaleas and hydrangeas? I love the name of hydrangea in Italian: hortensia. If I ever name a female anything again I will name her Hortensia.

I love this place so much that I came twice during its week long run. I was hunting for the beautiful blue-flowering plumbago that does so well here, but I never found it. However, I did find laurel bushes for sale at a great price and bought 10 of them to create a wall on my terrace. More on that later.

Fresh cut flowers are not a big feature of the plant sale, but these peonies were on offer and I had a very tough time resisting a bunch of them. However, when you are carrying 10 laurel bushes and don’t have a car, you find you have a lot of willpower. I also bought a fiddle leaf fig tree plant for inside my apartment.

These coral colored peonies stole my heart for sure!

And I always love ranunculus!

But, without a doubt, the star of the event for me appeared on the 2nd day I was at the sale. This adorable bambina seemed dressed for a flowery adventure among the azalea plants that were almost bigger than she. What a creature!

Below, what I brought home. It doesn’t look like a lot because I camouflaged them a bit. But I will soon have a new hedge separating my terrace from my neighbor’s. Whoo hoo!

Below are the plants I brought home from my first day at the sale. My normal sized shopping bags sufficed.

Below are the plants I brought home from second visit. IKEA bags were needed this time!

At this moment on my terrace I am seeing a lot of growth and some early beauty! I’m very lucky to have a nice big paved terrace here in Florence and I get out and enjoy it day and night.

For example, I love this type of geranium. I think it’s called Ivy Geranium, Geranium Peltatum. If you know better, please tell me.

Ivy geraniums (Pelargonium peltatum) are trailing plants that can spread up to 48 inches. They are named for the lobed, sometimes pointed, leaves that resemble ivy (Hedera spp.) plants. The bright, glossy green leaves can reach 3 inches across. Clusters of single or double flowers bloom in shades of red, pink, mauve, purple, or white.

Whatever its actual type name, I associate it with Italy, which is where I first became aware of it. I bought this one in the very early spring and have been watching it come to full life. We have had a coolish spring so far, but the heat of summer will soon be upon us!

I also love the Zonal Geranimum. I bought these 2 planters and 6 plants earlier this spring and they area already going strong. Very strong! I have no control over the background: that is my neighbor’s terrace.

But look what just popped! The first blossoms of my jasmine vines. I inherited these from the former tenant of my apartment, but I have groomed and cared for these vines since January and they are beginning to show their thanks!

Above stands the historic and monumental Loggia di Lanzi in Florence’s Piazza Della Signoria. This is one of the grandest city squares in all of Europe. Above is a stock image from Wikipedia, not taken on the day this post was photographed, when the square was teeming with tourists. I took all of the following photos, ducking between tourists to get the shots.

It isn’t everyday that one has access to go inside this famed structure, the lovely loggia built during the Medieval period in Florence. But, on this lucky day, the ropes were open and I took advantage and made a quick tour.

I’m fortunate to say that I’ve walked around inside this famous location many many times over the years, so on every new visit, I attempt to spot something I’d never noticed before. On this day it was these sculpted figures below the entablature serving as the base from which these groined vaults rise. Can you see the female figure with her skirt stretched over her knees in the 2 sculptures? I wish I had gotten better pictures. Oh well, next time….

Just think of all the things these figures have looked at, the moments of history, since they were constructed sometime between 1376 and 1382. It’s only been 643 years or so!

The loggia houses some supreme Renaissance sculpture as well as Roman era sculptures from the Medici collections formed in the 14th century onward. It’s been said that Florence is an out-door museum and this loggia, filled with treasures, is one reason why.

Cellini’s masterpiece stands as a promise or a threat to the city!

Here’s a frontal view of this masterpiece: Perseus with the head of Medusa. You can read all about it here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perseus_with_the_Head_of_Medusa

The best kind of chaos!

I adore the liveliness of the Italian scene. There is never a dull moment on the streets.

One of my favorite things in Florence is that there is a free outdoor space set aside for artists to work in chalk. These 3 demarcated spaces are often being used by astounding artists. I marvel!

I’m often caught up with the site of a parent walking with their mini me. This girl and her mother will one day be twinning!

But I like watching other people too. Sometimes I am just so moved by something I see, I can barely get my phone out in time to capture it!

And the music! The singers, the musicians! Incredibile! And what you don’t know is that these 2 locations are superb. The one above is next to the cathedral (il duomo) and this rendition of Hallelujah by Leonard Cohen is being played on the most beautiful bridge in Florence, the Ponte Santa Trinita. Combine spontaneous music with a world-class location and you achieve nirvana. Imho. Well, let’s be honest, my opinion isn’t truly humble. :-))

Or, how about a medieval tower that has been transformed into modern living?

And, then one day, I’m walking down a major thoroughfare in the historic center of Florence and I hear out an open window a vocalist practicing. I absolutely have to stop to listen. This is what dreams are made of.

The usual scene around the famous statue of the wild boar near the Loggia del Mercato Nuovo. Legend has it if you rub the nose, you’ll have good luck and maybe be lucky enough to return to Florence. It is always surrounded by people waiting to have their chance.

Nothing beats starting the day ay my local bar with an excellent cappuccino. The kind Starbucks can only dream of.

And finally, you know it is spring, because here come the flowers!

And I’ll end this post with a little philosophy. At least a nod to. See the caffe pictured below, promising a cafe, rum and philosophy? It offers some fleeting information about what goes on under this historic arch in which it is housed.