What Old Delhi looks like from the back of a bicycle rickshaw after 25 hours in transit from the US

After arriving in Delhi on the heels of a 25 hour transit from the US, including a 14 hour flight over the NORTH POLE people!! from Seattle to Dubai, I snuck off to my hotel room for a few hours of sleep.  Later I joined friends for a tour of Old Delhi on the back of a bicycle rickshaw through the Chandni Chowk market.. It was the most uncomfortable ride of my life and, of course, it was raining, and I don’t know if it was the lack of sleep, or the fact that I had entered a very different world, but I felt like I was on an acid trip.  The pink turban of the man in front of me was my bicycle rider/driver.  I was in his rickshaw.

Some of my pictures are blurry because he kept us moving.  Some are a little bit more clear, but only because he paused for a moment to let the masses of humanity and animals pass us.  He never gave passage on purpose, but only because he was driven to it by a lack of chance.  I got my first lesson in what it takes to survive in India.  Reticence and fine manners are really low on that list.

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Yeah, so it was a blur and it was chaotic all around me. And then you notice the electrical wiring and you just wonder how India can operate at all.

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And, I gotta say, I never stopped puzzling that last statement for the whole month I was there.  I still don’t know any answers.

Let’s talk Taj. Part 1.

The Taj Mahal.

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Just the mention of the name brings forth notions of exotic, white-marbled opulence.  The name means “crown of palaces” in Arabic and Persian, and most people know there is a story of romance behind the structure.

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The Taj was built in the 17th century by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, seen here standing on the dome of the world:

in memory of his third wife, the Persian princess known as Mumtaz Mahal, who died while giving birth to their 14th child. OMG, poor thing.  Here she is:

The Taj is universally recognized as the jewel of Muslim art in India and one of the great masterpieces of the world heritage.  It is one of the seven wonders of the world.

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The complex of buildings that creates the vast Taj Mahal is the finest extant example of Mughal architecture, a style that combines elements from Islamic, Persian, Ottoman Turkish, and Indian architectural styles.

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While the white domed mausoleum is the most familiar component of the Taj Mahal, it is actually an integrated complex of structures as seen in the following CAD design.

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Here’s another computerized representation of the complex.

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Thousands of artisans were employed to create the vast complex. Typically, Indian architecture used red sandstone as a primary building material, but the Emperor had the Taj constructed in white Indian marble inlaid with precious and semi-precious stones.

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The marble dome that surmounts the tomb is the most spectacular feature, and is decorated with a lotus design, which accentuates its height.

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The dome and chattris (smaller domed kiosks on the sides) are topped by a gilded finial, which mixes traditional Persian and Hindustani decorative elements.

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The finial is topped by a moon, a typical Islamic motif whose horns point upward towards the heavens. When you add the horns of the moon and the finial point of the main spire, you obtain a trident shape, which may be a reference to the traditional Hindu symbols of Shiva.

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Four minarets frame the tomb, one at each corner of the supporting plinth. The minarets, which are each 130 feet tall, are working minarets used by the muezzin to call the Islamic faithful to prayer.

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Each minaret is effectively divided into three equal parts by two working balconies that ring the tower. At the top of the tower is a final balcony surmounted by a chattri that mirrors the design of those on the tomb.

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The main chamber houses the false sarcophagi of both the princess Mumtaz Mahal, and for her husband, Shah Jahan; their actual graves are at a lower level. I will be showing the interior in Part 3 of these blogs on the Taj.  Stay tuned.

I included many shots of the inlay at the Taj in my post entitled “This is India 4. Let’s look at inlaid tiles and other patterns.”  Please have a look at that post for more Taj details.  Thanks!

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In the meantime, feast your eyes on some more views of the exterior.  It is a very photogenic structure to say the least!

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Gorgeous, no?

This is India 4. Let’s look at inlaid tiles and other patterns.

Here’s what I know: You can pick just about any topic in the world and the variety of that topic in India is infinite.  Absolutely.

Let’s take the subject of gorgeous inlaid tiles found in so many Islamic buildings throughout the world.  I loved them in Andalucia, Spain; I loved them in Morocco; and, not surprisingly, I loved them in India.  Of course the Indian tiles have a distinctly Indian flavor; how could they not?

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The palette of colors is completely “Indian.”  Similar applications of tiles in Islamic buildings in Morocco and Spain have a completely different palette.

For example: here’s Morocco

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And here is an example from the Alhambra in Spain:

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It was in Spain that I first fell in love with Islamic architecture and decorative arts.

So, now you see how different the Indian palette of colors is.

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And then there are these incredibly complex ceilings in some old Indian major monuments, completely unlike anything in Morocco or Spain.  This one fascinates me.

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Then there are the carved traceries (carved stone) that cover so many windows and other openings.

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Just look at the amazing use of inlaid tiles.  Every piece hand cut.

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The photo above and the one below are taken looking up along an outer wall of the Taj Mahal.

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My pedicure blends in with the palette of tile work. I am wearing slippers from my hotel room.  You bring them with you in your bag because you will be required to remove shoes at the entrance to monuments.  But, if you bring your slippers or socks, you can wear them.  Stone tile floors are cold in February on a misty morning!

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A stucco ceiling.

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And the cut out metal lanterns create amazing patterns.  This is not at Taj, but the pattern the light casts on the wall reminds me of the traceries found at the Taj and other places throughout beautiful India.

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And finally for today, here is a huge wall well, which means there is a well at the bottom of this wall with the stairs leading ever downward in these incredibly intricate patterns.  It is mind-bogglingly beautiful.

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Florentine Silk

From today’s New York Times.

 

Down a quiet lane in the San Frediano district of Florence, beyond an iron gate and leafy courtyard, is Antico Setificio Fiorentino, the sole remaining artisan silk workshop in the city. Since moving to this location (Via Lorenzo Bartolini 4) in 1786, the small factory has maintained uninterrupted production, despite wars and floods. The art of silk-making in Florence flourished in the Renaissance, when noble families amassed fortunes and fame by producing exquisite silks. That tradition endures at Antico Setificio Fiorentino, where silks are woven by hand on antique looms using Renaissance patterns.

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FLORENCE | A silk loom at Antico Setificio Fiorentino. Credit Stefano Ricci /ASF by Bernardo Conti

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During a recent tour, the designer Maurizio Bonas rattled off the illustrious names of historic Florentine clans — Corsini, Pucci, Strozzi — whose signature patterns are still being produced. “When you go inside many historical houses in Italy, it’s Antico Setificio that did them,” said Mr. Bonas, who noted that the factory’s silks also adorn rooms in the Vatican, the Palazzo Vecchio and the Tribuna degli Uffizi in Florence, and even in the Kremlin in Moscow.

“To make these kinds of fabric, we cannot use the modern machines,” Mr. Bonas said, pulling out a roll of sumptuous blue embroidered silk velvet made with 350,000 stitches per meter. One worker who was weaving a cream-colored damask from a design named for the Renaissance painter Pinturicchio could be expected to complete only 80 to 100 centimeters of the fabric per day. And because the small factory employs only 20 artisans, production is predictably limited — and costly. In the adjoining showroom, walls are lined with bolts of silk, from plush velvets and intricate damasks to diaphanous taffetas, 110 to 1,360 euros (about $135 to $1,670) per meter. Decorative pillows are adorned with hand-woven trims. And, on a table, a basket is filled with sachets made of Ermisino, a shimmering silk taffeta that dates back 500 years. Inside each is potpourri from Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, a 400-year-old pharmacy that has partnered with Antico Setificio for, as Mr. Bonas said, “only 250 years.”

A more recent partnership with the Stefano Ricci luxury men’s wear label, which acquired Antico Setificio in 2010, means the designer’s nearby store now stocks wearable wares made with Antico Setificio’s fine silk. INGRID K. WILLIAMS