You thought Florence was only for pansies?

Ha!  I think not!

What is this madness, you ask:

History of Calcio Fiorentino,

Calcio Fiorentino is like a rugby death match played with hands and feet, but mostly fists. It may have begun as early as the first century A.D., as some believe, but it can definitely be traced to the early 16th century, when these basic rules were established: two teams of 27 members each are allowed to throw the ball over the goal in 50 minutes.

Each major Florentine neighborhood has a team as follows:

Santa Croce: Blue team or Azzurri
Santa Maria Novella: Red team or Rossi
Santo Spirito: White team or Bianchi
San Giovanni: Green team or Verdi

update: November 13, 2014, see this article for updated rules:

http://theflorentine.net/articles/article-view.asp?issuetocId=9653&browse-by=News&level=Florence-News

For those who prefer Italian.

Seattle Japanese Garden in autumn

Here’s how the garden looked today.  Pretty awesome.  I don’t think many words are necessary!

IMG_2466 IMG_2467 IMG_2468 IMG_2469 IMG_2470 IMG_2471 IMG_2472 IMG_2473

White camellias in bloom!

IMG_2474 IMG_2475 IMG_2476 IMG_2477 IMG_2481

IMG_2482 IMG_2483

The pictures of the glossy green leaves above are a camellia shrub.  You can see the flower buds swelling.  They’ll open this winter.

IMG_2484 IMG_2485

Espaliered cotoneaster.

IMG_2486

I think the red berries are a viburnum, judging from the leaves.

IMG_2489

IMG_2490

See the rock to the right of the lantern in the water?  Two turtles sunning.

IMG_2491

They were ready for their close-up shots.

IMG_2493 IMG_2494  IMG_2496 IMG_2497 IMG_2498 IMG_2499 IMG_2500 IMG_2501

IMG_2503 IMG_2504 IMG_2505 IMG_2506 IMG_2508 IMG_2509 IMG_2510 IMG_2511 IMG_2515

IMG_2516 IMG_2518 IMG_2519

IMG_2520 IMG_2521

This plant is this red…these are not flowers, they are leaves!

What Old Delhi looks like from the back of a bicycle rickshaw after 25 hours in transit from the US

After arriving in Delhi on the heels of a 25 hour transit from the US, including a 14 hour flight over the NORTH POLE people!! from Seattle to Dubai, I snuck off to my hotel room for a few hours of sleep.  Later I joined friends for a tour of Old Delhi on the back of a bicycle rickshaw through the Chandni Chowk market.. It was the most uncomfortable ride of my life and, of course, it was raining, and I don’t know if it was the lack of sleep, or the fact that I had entered a very different world, but I felt like I was on an acid trip.  The pink turban of the man in front of me was my bicycle rider/driver.  I was in his rickshaw.

Some of my pictures are blurry because he kept us moving.  Some are a little bit more clear, but only because he paused for a moment to let the masses of humanity and animals pass us.  He never gave passage on purpose, but only because he was driven to it by a lack of chance.  I got my first lesson in what it takes to survive in India.  Reticence and fine manners are really low on that list.

DSCN1441 DSCN1442 DSCN1443 DSCN1444 DSCN1445   DSCN1448 DSCN1449 DSCN1451 DSCN1453 DSCN1454 DSCN1455 DSCN1456 DSCN1457 DSCN1458 DSCN1459 DSCN1461 DSCN1462 DSCN1463 DSCN1467 DSCN1468 DSCN1471 DSCN1472 DSCN1473 DSCN1474 DSCN1476 DSCN1477 DSCN1478 DSCN1479 DSCN1480 DSCN1481 DSCN1482 DSCN1484 DSCN1485  DSCN1487 DSCN1488 DSCN1489 DSCN1491 DSCN1492    DSCN1496 DSCN1497

Yeah, so it was a blur and it was chaotic all around me. And then you notice the electrical wiring and you just wonder how India can operate at all.

DSCN1446

DSCN1486

DSCN1494

DSCN1495

DSCN1493

And, I gotta say, I never stopped puzzling that last statement for the whole month I was there.  I still don’t know any answers.

Let’s talk Taj. Part 1.

The Taj Mahal.

TajMahal04

Just the mention of the name brings forth notions of exotic, white-marbled opulence.  The name means “crown of palaces” in Arabic and Persian, and most people know there is a story of romance behind the structure.

taj-mahal-in-the-fog

The Taj was built in the 17th century by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, seen here standing on the dome of the world:

in memory of his third wife, the Persian princess known as Mumtaz Mahal, who died while giving birth to their 14th child. OMG, poor thing.  Here she is:

The Taj is universally recognized as the jewel of Muslim art in India and one of the great masterpieces of the world heritage.  It is one of the seven wonders of the world.

index

The complex of buildings that creates the vast Taj Mahal is the finest extant example of Mughal architecture, a style that combines elements from Islamic, Persian, Ottoman Turkish, and Indian architectural styles.

taj-mahal-agra

While the white domed mausoleum is the most familiar component of the Taj Mahal, it is actually an integrated complex of structures as seen in the following CAD design.

tajmahal3d_39434

Here’s another computerized representation of the complex.

floor-plan-of-taj-mahal_021811094427

Thousands of artisans were employed to create the vast complex. Typically, Indian architecture used red sandstone as a primary building material, but the Emperor had the Taj constructed in white Indian marble inlaid with precious and semi-precious stones.

taj8

imgp9187

The marble dome that surmounts the tomb is the most spectacular feature, and is decorated with a lotus design, which accentuates its height.

taj2

The dome and chattris (smaller domed kiosks on the sides) are topped by a gilded finial, which mixes traditional Persian and Hindustani decorative elements.

taj6

The finial is topped by a moon, a typical Islamic motif whose horns point upward towards the heavens. When you add the horns of the moon and the finial point of the main spire, you obtain a trident shape, which may be a reference to the traditional Hindu symbols of Shiva.

tajmahal-25a

Four minarets frame the tomb, one at each corner of the supporting plinth. The minarets, which are each 130 feet tall, are working minarets used by the muezzin to call the Islamic faithful to prayer.

360_taj_mahal_0516

Each minaret is effectively divided into three equal parts by two working balconies that ring the tower. At the top of the tower is a final balcony surmounted by a chattri that mirrors the design of those on the tomb.

220px-Behind_The_Taj

The main chamber houses the false sarcophagi of both the princess Mumtaz Mahal, and for her husband, Shah Jahan; their actual graves are at a lower level. I will be showing the interior in Part 3 of these blogs on the Taj.  Stay tuned.

I included many shots of the inlay at the Taj in my post entitled “This is India 4. Let’s look at inlaid tiles and other patterns.”  Please have a look at that post for more Taj details.  Thanks!

taj9

In the meantime, feast your eyes on some more views of the exterior.  It is a very photogenic structure to say the least!

tajtaj-mahal-bird-view

Taj-Mahal    tajcalligraphy TajMahal (167)  th_interior23

Gorgeous, no?

This is India 4. Let’s look at inlaid tiles and other patterns.

Here’s what I know: You can pick just about any topic in the world and the variety of that topic in India is infinite.  Absolutely.

Let’s take the subject of gorgeous inlaid tiles found in so many Islamic buildings throughout the world.  I loved them in Andalucia, Spain; I loved them in Morocco; and, not surprisingly, I loved them in India.  Of course the Indian tiles have a distinctly Indian flavor; how could they not?

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The palette of colors is completely “Indian.”  Similar applications of tiles in Islamic buildings in Morocco and Spain have a completely different palette.

For example: here’s Morocco

moroccan-tiles

And here is an example from the Alhambra in Spain:

Alhambra

It was in Spain that I first fell in love with Islamic architecture and decorative arts.

So, now you see how different the Indian palette of colors is.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

And then there are these incredibly complex ceilings in some old Indian major monuments, completely unlike anything in Morocco or Spain.  This one fascinates me.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Then there are the carved traceries (carved stone) that cover so many windows and other openings.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Just look at the amazing use of inlaid tiles.  Every piece hand cut.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The photo above and the one below are taken looking up along an outer wall of the Taj Mahal.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

My pedicure blends in with the palette of tile work. I am wearing slippers from my hotel room.  You bring them with you in your bag because you will be required to remove shoes at the entrance to monuments.  But, if you bring your slippers or socks, you can wear them.  Stone tile floors are cold in February on a misty morning!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

A stucco ceiling.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

And the cut out metal lanterns create amazing patterns.  This is not at Taj, but the pattern the light casts on the wall reminds me of the traceries found at the Taj and other places throughout beautiful India.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

And finally for today, here is a huge wall well, which means there is a well at the bottom of this wall with the stairs leading ever downward in these incredibly intricate patterns.  It is mind-bogglingly beautiful.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA