Italian fashion @ the Victoria and Albert Museum, London

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Gown above by Simonetta.

Last summer the V & A in London had an important exhibition on Italian fashion called The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945 – 2014.  Much of this post is taken from the website link, given at the bottom.

Both women’s and menswear were highlighted in the show, with an emphasis on the techniques, materials, and expertise for which Italian fashion is renowned.

The V & A included around 100 ensembles and accessories by leading Italian fashion houses including Simonetta, Pucci, Sorelle Fontana, Valentino, Gucci, Missoni, Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Marni, Fendi, Prada and Versace.

Here’s a video (Click on the “Vimeo” button to see it) about the opening of the show:

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The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945 – 2014

Years following WWII:

Following the despair of the 1940s, Italy’s post-war government aimed to reinvigorate a country weakened in spirit and in physical and financial ruin. American aid helped Italy get back up on its feet, with support provided through the Marshall Plan.

Even the fashion world was helped by these conscious efforts to rebuild: the swift retooling of Italian factories alongside efforts by the country’s many entrepreneurs helped fashion become a cornerstone of Italy’s post-war recovery.

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As clothing designers and textile manufacturers gradually resumed trading, their stylish designs responded to a hunger for glamor after years of wartime deprivation. Italian high fashion and fine tailoring became one of Italy’s most successful and popular exports.

Return to Luxury post WWII:

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The fashion industry gradually built itself a luxury market.  Giovanni Battista Giorgini launched Italy’s first internationally recognized fashion shows. In 1952, he secured the use of the Sala Bianca (White Hall), an opulent, chandelier-lit gallery in Florence’s famed Pitti Palace, for the landmark catwalk shows that would be held in the Renaissance city throughout the 50s.  This exciting moment propelled Italian fashion onto the world stage, front and center.

Hollywood on the Tiber:

During the 1950s and 1960s, so many Hollywood films were shot on location in Italy that Rome was nicknamed “the Hollywood on the Tiber.”  Movie stars like Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor became almost ambassadors for Italian fashion, which fueled a keen international appetite for the luxe clothing fabricated in Italy. (Please see my earlier post on Roman Holiday and Funny Face; I am a huge fan of Miss Hepburn.)

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Salvatore Ferragamo discusses shoes with Audrey Hepburn

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Throughout the 1950s and 1960s, Italy’s economy had grown rapidly, driven in part by the fashion and textile sectors. In the years that followed, despite social and political instability, Italy’s fashion industry blossomed. Numerous fashion and related manufacturing businesses started up, many of them family-run.

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Tailoring

Italy’s reputation for tailored clothing developed internationally thanks to popular images of stylishly dressed Italian actors. Marcello Mastroianni’s trim suits in the 1960 film La Dolce Vita inspired fashion-conscious men everywhere.

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That movie alone popularized the men’s Italian suit worldwide. Made to measure suits for an individual client were the launching pad for a growing international clientele, followed by the increasingly popular ready-made suits of later decades.

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A well-tailored suit requires precisely cut fabric and exact fit, along with fine finishing details. The smallest design elements, such as the shape of a pocket or sleeve, often differed from region to region. A Neapolitan suit could be distinguished from one produced in Rome.

The emergence of ready to wear:

From the early 1970s, the popularity of couture gave way to enthusiasm for manufactured fashion. Milan – with its fashion press, advertising industry, and nearby clothing and textile factories – became Italy’s new fashion capital.

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Made in Italy:

‘Made in Italy’ was a marketing campaign that celebrated a rainbow of premium goods: cinema, art, food, tourism, design and, chief among them, fashion. This decades-long, international promotional campaign ensured that ‘Made in Italy’ became the mark of style.

Cult of the designer:
Since the mid-1990s, fashion has become ever more international. Many more Italian designers have become celebrities in their own right and solidified their country’s reputation as a global tastemaker. These designers sell a universe of goods across continents, from clothing to furniture to hotel interiors. Some have transformed long-established family firms into international luxury brands. All have a devoted following.

The designers in this section are at varying stages on the journey to recognition. Some have the tradition of generations behind them. Others emerged onto Italy’s fashion scene only a few seasons ago. What unites them is a loyal clientele, an emphasis on Italian production, and a place at the top end of fashion, where Italy’s designers continue to find their competitive advantage.
The bright spot in Italy’s generally sober economic outlook is the limitless demand for a taste of Italian style. Italian fashion companies are still influential, even as Italy’s reputation has suffered.

What will ‘Made in Italy’ mean in future?

The years since 2000 have been marked by political scandal, immigration tensions and economic problems. Italy’s once famed networks of textile production and related industries are thinning. Its premium fashion houses are increasingly foreign-owned. Chinese factories, workers and consumers are now intertwined with the destiny of the Italian-made.

Sponsored by Bulgari:
Bulgari is proud to sponsor this exhibition. Bulgari is an emblem of Italian creativity and craftsmanship, renowned for its distinctively Italian style. From the 1960s Bulgari was acclaimed for creative designs incorporating colored gemstones. This exhibition features legendary jewels once owned by Elizabeth Taylor.

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Bulgari jewels

http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/exhibitions/exhibition-the-glamour-of-italian-fashion-1945-2014/about-the-exhibition/

A couple of last looks from the exhibition:

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The V & A exhibition also asked the question of what the future might hold for Italian fashion, including a short documentary about the future of the Italian fashion industry vis a vis competition from lower-wage markets such as India and Asia and also the marketing power of the established fashion houses, which makes it harder for newcomers to gain a foothold.  Thought provoking stuff.

Roman Holiday

Oh, how I love this movie!  It is my favorite single film of all time.

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It was released in 1953, which was a very good year! It was Miss Hepburn’s first starring role in an American film, even though the whole thing was set in Rome.  It has a fantastic story which is as moving as it is comedic.

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Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck on a Vespa (bzzzz, bzzzz, vespa means hornet in Italian) with Rome as a backdrop.  It doesn’t get any better than that!  All of my favorites in one shot.

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Here the actors appear on the iconic Spanish Steps.  Miss Hepburn was the perfect age to play a European princess and Mr. Peck was completely believable as a seasoned American journalist looking to get a scoop on a story.  (This is an important distinction, for not every American leading man will be a believable love interest for the amazing Miss Hepburn in her future films.)

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A publicity still.

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I didn’t discover this movie until I was an adult, but it didn’t matter, I fell for it completely. And then, one time I was visiting my friend, Grayce Murabito, in her little village, Casoli di Camiore, near Lucca, and I met the very charismatic Eddie Albert who also had a major role in the film.  Grayce and Eddie had been an entertainment duo in their early professional careers.  I will write a post on them soon.

Here is a still of all 3 of the movie stars, Audrey, Gregory, and Eddie.

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Which was turned into a great poster:

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When the movie begins, we meet the character Miss Hepburn plays, Princess Ann.  She is a very miserable young royal who is stifled and bored in her constant round of official presentations, even when they are in Rome.

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She wants nothing but a little fun in her life and to be released from always doing the right thing.

After she has been all but tucked into bed by her female attendants in her glamorous Roman chamber, she manages to break free.

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Some hi jinx ensue and she winds up in the care of an American journalist who coincidentally is in desperate need of a scoop.  For quite a while he doesn’t realize he has one.

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In the meantime, the princess tastes freedom.  For starters, she gets her hair cut.  She wanders around the streets of Rome, caught up in the sweet pleasure of her freedom to do just as she likes (dolce far niente), and when she strolls by a hairdresser, she can’t resist going in for a break-all-the-rules fashionable haircut.

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Of course her new pixie haircut looks marvelous on her because, after all, she is still Audrey Hepburn!

So, heartened by her new hairstyle, Princess Ann does other daring things, like ride around Rome on a Vespa with an American man.

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And wander the streets of Rome freely, meeting the people.

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And attending an ordinary dance for ordinary people, at which she dances with her handsome journalist friend.

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And sleeping in his tiny apartment in his pajamas.

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She and her journalist friend visit the famous la boca della verita (the mouth of truth) in Rome.  Joe Bradley tells her the myth, which purports that, if you put your hand into the mouth of this sculpture and tell a lie, your hand will be bitten off.

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Ann is apprehensive, but tests it.  Then she and Joe collapse in laughter at her silly fears.

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Along with tasting freedom, the princess also inadvertently gets a taste of love in her dashing co-conspirator.  Only she doesn’t know he knows who she is and that he is actually setting her up.

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But he has fallen in love with her as well.  How could he not? The entire western world was falling in love with Audrey Hepburn right then, no matter what role she was playing.

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In the end, she goes back to her duties and you will have to watch the film to find out how Joe Bradley winds up using his scoop.

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Here’s another still with some technicolor added later.  The princess has discovered gelato as well as freedom.

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The critics and the public alike were captivated by Audrey and her performance in Roman Holiday and she was feted with multiple awards.  Miss H was the first actress to win an Academy Award, a Golden Globe and a BAFTA Award for a single performance.  This beautiful film set Miss H up for a series of great upcoming performances on the American screen.

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It is sweet to look at this candid photo of the two lead characters playing cards during a break from filming in Rome.

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Sigh.  It is such a beautiful film. Run, don’t walk, to see it as soon as possible.  Ride your Vespa if you can.

Ciao a tutti!

Post script: Famed Hollywood designer, Edith Head, created the looks Miss Hepburn wore. Here is Miss Head.

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And here is the sketch Miss Head designed for the ballgown Princess Ann wears to receive dignitaries.

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And, finally, one last, luminous shot of Audrey Hepburn in Rome on the Spanish Steps in color from 1953, for no other reason than I can.

Here’s the vintage trailer for the movie: