Creative Christmas trees

Before the season has completely come and gone, I wanted to show you how some creative businesses in Florence use the Christmas tree design but in a more or less two dimensional fashion.  I’ve never seen this before and I like it!

These trees are left in their natural green, with no decorations.

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While this one has flocked the trees.  Which do you prefer?  I like them both!

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I suppose it wasn’t that much of a leap to the creative types in Florence to come up with the use of the Christmas tree, for don’t forget that Florentines have always decorated their public spaces in such a fashion: see what I mean on the famed Orsan Michele?

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The picture above is an exterior wall of the church, Orsan Michele,  that you walk by several times a day as you wander around Florence,  and the base of the niche that houses the sculpture is right at you eye level.

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And the use of the 2 dimensional tree design reminded me of the wall design in one of my luxurious hotel rooms in India 10 months ago:

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Cool beans!

Last minute shopping? I’m here to help!

Florence is filled with all manner of earthly delights!

Let’s take a quick buzz around town and find a few last gifts! Va bene?

Something needed for little ones?  Try this store.

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Something beautiful per le donne? How about one of these fine leather products.  I’d love all of them!  I’ve actually got my eye on something on the bottom shelf. Che bella and also practical. How can something that checks both of those boxes be wrong?  Right?

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Need something per il uomo in la tua vita?  I am certain you can find something here.

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And, how about a matching little something something for yourself?

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Does your mind run to confections?  These prettily wrapped pandoro are nice at Eataly.

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Or, something from the south of Italy?  Marzipan candies made to look like frutta?  Perche no?

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Do you still have some baking and then some decorating to do?  How about of these little confections?  Marron glace? Sugared roses, violets, or mint leaves? Very pretty!

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Marron glace. A steal at 60 Euro ($73) per kilogram.

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Sugared rose petals: 120 Euro ($146) per kilogram.

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Sugared violets, same price as rose petals.

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Mint leaves, same price.

Allora, that was a kiss and a promise of shopping.  You’ll have to wrap your gifts yourself.  Io ho stanco (I’m tired).  Buona fortuna!

Florence streets on the night before the night before: 23 December 2014

So many Medieval streets decorated with delicate white lights. A theme that runs through the city.

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Each street prettier than the last.  The evening is warm, don’t even need gloves.

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All streets in Florence eventually lead to il Duomo.

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But let’s take a detour and stop in the Piazza della Republica to see the lights at the Rinascente department store because they are fabulous!

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On to il Duomo.

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Hello Giotto’s campanile!  Do you remember that time when my son was 10 and we climbed to your top with his teddy bear?  I do!  The desk clerk said he had to buy a ticket for his bear.  Remember that?  It was so cute!

Oh, and p.s., my son is now 21.5 years old.  Bet that makes you feel old, right? Ha ha.  You were old before I even met you when I was 28.  Now that was a really long time ago.

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Il Duomo ed il campanile, you are both looking bellisima for the holidays!  I wish you a hearty buon natale! We are celebrating your entire raison d’etre this week, no?  The story about where it all started.

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Well, enjoy yourselves then and please join me in wishing una Buone feste a tutti the world!

Presepio, Italian for nativity scene

Truly, the loveliest and most impressive presepio I’ve ever seen is the one shown annually at this time of year at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.  And of course, don’t you know, like a lot of the best stuff ever made, the entire set of figures and accoutrements came from Italy! Baroque Neapolitan Italy in this case. It just all makes sense!

Everybody knows the Met is one of the smartest institutions on planet earth and it is just brilliant that they combine their gorgeous presepio with a towering, elegant 20 foot tall Christmas tree.

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All presepios (presipi in Italian) or Nativity scenes include figures representing the baby Jesus with his mother Mary and Joseph. Other characters as described in the gospel of Luke are often found in a presepio, such as shepherds and sheep, angels and a manger in a barn or cave intended to house farm animals. Usually a donkey and an ox are included as well as the Magi and camels that brought them to Bethlehem as described in the gospel of Matthew.

Italy, France, and other traditionally Catholic countries have, over the centuries, added an array of other characters and objects to their Nativity scenes, some of which may or may not be be found in the Biblical descriptions.

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The Met’s 18th-century Baroque Neapolitan Nativity scene contains a profuse array of diminutive, lifelike attendant figures and silk-robed angels hovering above alight all over the surface of the tree.  More than 200 figures comprise the set and were given to the Museum by Loretta Hines Howard starting in 1964 (you gotta love another Loretta!). The presipio and tree have been displayed each holiday season for nearly 40 years.

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The following is taken from the MMA’s website description of their presepio:

“The Museum’s towering tree, glowing with light, is adorned with cherubs and some fifty gracefully suspended angels. The landscape at the base displays the figures and scenery of the Neapolitan Christmas crib. This display mingles the three basic elements traditional in eighteenth-century Naples: the Nativity, with adoring shepherds and their flocks; the procession of the three Magi and their exotically dressed retinue of Asians and Africans; and, most distinctively, a crowd of colorful townspeople and peasants. The theatrical scene is enhanced by a charming assortment of animals—sheep, goats, horses, a camel, and an elephant—and by background pieces serving as the dramatic setting for the Nativity, including the ruins of a Roman temple, several quaint houses, and a typical Italian fountain with a lion’s-mask waterspout.


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The origin of the popular Christmas custom of restaging the Nativity traditionally is credited to Saint Francis of Assisi. The employment of manmade figures to reenact the hallowed events soon developed and reached its height of complexity and artistic excellence in eighteenth-century Naples. There, local families vied to outdo each other in presenting elaborate and theatrical presepios, often assisted by professional stage directors. The finest sculptors of the period—including Giuseppe Sammartino and his pupils Salvatore di Franco, Giuseppe Gori, and Angelo Viva—were called on to model the terracotta heads and shoulders of the extraordinary crèche figures.


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The Museum’s presepio figures, each a work of art, range from 6 to 20 inches in height. They have articulated bodies of tow and wire, heads and shoulders modeled in terracotta and polychromed to perfection. The luxurious and colorful costumes, many of which are original, were often sewn by ladies of the collecting families and enriched by jewels, embroideries, and elaborate accessories, including gilded censers, scimitars and daggers, and silver filigree baskets. The placement of the approximately fifty large angels on the Christmas tree and the composition of the crèche figures and landscape vary slightly from year to year as new figures are added.”


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Many years ago, when I was a Chester Dale Fellow at the Met, I had the privilege of working daily in that great American museum in my small but divine office space while researching and writing my doctoral dissertation.  As the days grew shorter and the museum got darker –earlier and earlier in late afternoons early evenings– I could sense that the winter holidays were upon us. Every year, before Thanksgiving, the Met’s staff were hard at work sectioning off the area of the museum when the presipio and tree are annually installed.  Careful spacing and timing are required to raise the precious installation.


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As noted in the MMA description above, Saint Francis of Assisi is credited with having created the 1st known Nativity scene in 1223, having been inspired by his recent visit to the Holy Land and seeing the site of Jesus’s traditional birth. The scene Saint Francis created was a living scene, a tableaux vivant, that is, using living people and animals to portray the Biblical account.The scene’s popularity inspired communities throughout Catholic countries to stage similar pantomimes.  You can find similar enactments throughout the Christmas services of thousands of American churches today.

Ciao, ragazzi!  Buona notte!


Live and learn. Che sono ricciarelli?

The best thing ever, the thing that has made me happiest throughout my life, is learning new things.

So, when one of my readers said she prefers ricciarelli over panforte, panettone or pandoro, I wondered what ricciarelli are and I set off to find out.

Thank you, universe, for Wikipedia and the internets (I like to quote brilliant {ha ha} George Bush on this one thing).  Ta da: ricciarelli are light, almond Sienese cookies.  For centuries they were simply called marzipan because they make use of almond flour and/or paste.  And, did you know that Siena famously produced a very special marzipan of its own?  It sure enough did!

It turns out that ricciarelli are a traditional sweet treat that, like panforte, originated in Siena.  According to legend, Ricciardetto della Gheradesca invented them in his castle near Volterra during the 14th-century when he returned from fighting in the Crusades. I’m going to guess that his wife’s panforte was too difficult to break apart and devour while riding his horse to battle, so he devised a more manageable size product.  It just makes sense!

Ricciarelli are covered with icing sugar; they are crisp on the outside but soft on the inside and the whole bite melts in your mouth. Fresh and moist, the ricciarelli produce a burst of almond flavor on your tastebuds, along with the piercing smell of bitter almonds.

The cookies are cut and baked into an almond shape.  While this may be because they are made with ingredients derived from almonds, it is also said that their shapes resemble the almond shaped eyes of many painted Renaissance images of the Virgin Mary and other saints.

Any dolci made with almond paste were reserved for the sumptuous banquet of the Lords, because they were made of precious ingredients, mainly almonds and sugar. These precious ingredients were so valuable and refined that marzipan sweets were sold in the apothecaries shops  along with drugs and the most exotic spices of the time.

Today, the biscuits are made using an almond base with sugar, honey and egg white.  When prepared in the traditional method, the almonds are ground with a milling machine, and the finished mix is formed into numerous oval- or lozenge-shaped cookies that are set aside for two days before baking. The rough and crackled surface is usually lightly sprinkled with confectionery sugar.

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Here’s a recipe if you feel like making these lovely sweets, courtesy of http://en.julskitchen.com/dessert/ricciarelli-siena-almond-cookies, who tells us:

My recipe comes from the grocery shop Rosi in Poggibonsi (Siena), slightly revised. I love to enter their shop during the holidays because it is full of smells of spices, happy-eyed children and chocolate… but, most importantly, it is full of people talking in code: can you give me the ricciarelli dose for three? stuff for cavallucci without candied fruit, double nuts. Gimme my usual and gimme the spices, too. It’s a turnaround of numbers, doses, tips offered in a lowered voice, small pieces of written paper and puffs of icing sugar, and the result is this! Ricciarelli di Siena.



RicciarelliIngredients for about 20 ricciarelli:

  • 2 egg whites
  • lemon juice, 1 drop
  • icing sugar, 200 g
  • ground almond flour, 200 g**
  • bitter almond extract, 2 tablespoons
  • seeds from 1 pod of vanilla
  • grated zest of 1 orange
  • extra icing sugar, about 200 g
  • white wafer, 1 large sheet (about as large as a  A4 paper)

** can’t find almond flour?  Make it at home with fresh almonds: shell them and remove the outer brown skin (to remove it quickly immerse them for about ten seconds in boiling water). Toast the almonds in the oven at 100°C for about 5 minutes and then let them cool down. Blend them with a tablespoon of icing sugar. Pulse the mixer several times using the pulse function or by pushing the “on” button, holding for a second, and releasing. The goal is not over heating the almonds, otherwise they will release the oil. Blend until you get the consistency of a medium – fine and coarse meal.

The night before. Whip the egg whites with a drop of lemon juice to stiff peaks. Fold in 200 g of icing sugar and the ground almond flour. Mix in the bitter almond extract, the grated peel of one orange and the vanilla seeds. Cover with cling-film and set aside in the fridge overnight (or at least for 4 hours).

The day after. Cut out about twenty (approximately 7 cm x 4 cm) ovals from the wafer sheet: they are meant to be the basis of ricciarelli. Place the extra icing sugar on a working surface. Roll the rough into a sausage and cut out small balls of dough. with powdered sugar a work plan. Shape the dough with your hands to cover the wafer oval. Make it about 1 cm thick and coat the shaped cookies with extra icing sugar (about 5 mm thick). Arrange them on a baking tin lined with parchment paper or a silicone sheet.

Bake in preheated oven to 160°C for about 18 minutes. They will resemble crinkle cookies. When you remove them from the oven, they will be still soft and moist, but don’t worry! they will reach the ideal texture once cooled down. Store them in an airtight container.. the day after they are even better.

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Ricciarelli are typically consumed at Christmas, served with a desert wine such as Vin Santo or Moscadello di Montalcino. Buon appetitio!