On the day after Christmas, my true love said to me: Let’s go to the Piazza della Repubblica, Odeon Cinema, Gucci Museum and leave the damn partridge in the frickin’ pear tree!

a

The topics for today’s lecture are:

RED, a restaurant, Piazza della Repubblica

Odeon Cinema, near Palazzo Strozzi in the Piazza Strozzi

Gucci Museum, Piazza della Signoria

Are you ready to get down to business?  OK, pens and notebooks at the ready, let’s begin!  Cominciamo!

a

After a beautiful, quiet Christmas Day, which brought together (virtually and actually) all of the people and things I love, today a new friend and I had a nice lunch at the restaurant inside Feltrinelli Bookstore on the Piazza della Repubblica.  Certain parts of Florence are so contemporary in design that it is almost breathtaking to someone who has been coming here for over 30 years. C’est moi.

The modern little bistro inside Feltrinelli’s is called RED, which stands for Read, Eat, Dream–in English, alas–I am beginning to fear that Italian itself will be outmoded in cosmopolitan Firenze in my lifetime!

Che tragedia!

Yes, it will indeed be a tragedy if Italian is lost in the Florentine world of the spoken word.

But it is holiday time and let’s not discuss the perils of the americanization da bella Firenze. Give it a rest, people!

I’ll retrace my steps today and round out the lecture with pictures and a map.

We started at the Piazza della Repubblica, which is a mighty square within the city’s fabric. You can find it here just to the left of center, 1/2 way between top and bottom:

red7

red.3

The square looks like this from above:

red6

Feltrinelli and RED are inside the beautiful loggia which runs across the south side of the Piazza della Repubblica. In the picture below you can see the ground-floor loggia running out both sides from the center arch.

red8

The bookstore is located inside the loggia.

red

And RED is located inside the bookstore.

Are you with me?

You got it?

Good!

Okay then, let’s look inside!

red4

red5

Very sleek and cool, no?

red2

RED is a chic little bistro with a small menu of great dishes.  I went all American and had a hamburger served with carmelized onions and freshly home-made potatoes chips.  It was great!

Our next stop was the Odeon theater near Palazzo Strozzi in Piazza Strozzi.

cinema-teatro-Odeon-Firenze-a18487077

odeon1

I wish all movie theaters could be as pretty and elegant as the Odeon!  I mean, look at the interior!!

odeon

We sat in the gold velveteen covered comfortable chairs in the orchestra section.  It wouldn’t have mattered what movie we saw, as it was the experience of the theater and the city we were after.  But, as it happens, we saw a good film about Ireland (Jimmy’s Hall). 

The theater experience in this fine Italian cinema includes a coffee bar where you can get a great cafe or cappucino, and beer or wine, certain liquors, and apperitivi, as well as snacks. The Italians know how to make the movie experience, as so many of life’s everyday events, memorable!

bar

The two bars at either end of the lobby look something like the picture above.

We strolled through the historic center of Florence, heading back towards our apartments in the Santa Croce neighborhood and as it was dusk but still early, we decided to have a bite and a pot of tea at the elegant restaurant at the Gucci Museum on the Piazza della Signoria. 

gucci

The restaurant inside is tres chic!  Really modern, stylish, and gorgeous.

gucci5

gucci4

Even the brown and white sugar cubes are embossed into the Gucci symbol.

gucci2

The ceramic tea sets and other dishes are beautiful as well, as one would expect from a world-class operation such as this!

gucci1

It was a pretty amazing day and when we returned, the partridge had flown the coop. So, I guess Christmas is officially over for me.

But wait, Jan. 6, 2015 will be the day that La Befana visits, so not so fast, buster!

Florence snow video

We are not having snow here today (in fact it is really warm, I have roses blooming on my piazza), but I am still hopeful that it  will snow this winter.  I love snow!

But here’s what it looks like around here when it does occasionally snow.  It was noted in the records, btw, that Michelangelo created a snowman for the Medici household.  Those were the days!

The gifts are wrapped and the stockings are hung. Are we there yet?!

I’m ready for Christmas to come and go already,

and I’m also crazy for the works by this street artist. Here’s an example I saw last week as well as a write-up from The Florentine on who this artist(s) is and what she/he (they) are up to around the city.

IMG_2773

Art takes a dip

Quirky street art in Florence
by Mary Gray   (February 3, 2014 – 10:30)

Observant Florence wanderers might have recently noticed a new street art series around town. The project? ‘L’arte Sa Nuotare,’ or ‘Art Knows how to Swim.’ The artist? A mysterious figure known only as ‘Blub,’ who has yet to publicly reveal his or her identity. Blub recreates iconic images from such renowned works as Piero della Francesca’s The Duke of Urbino and Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, dressing them in scuba and swim gear. But contemporary famous faces aren’t immune: the artist also reproduced the cover of TIME magazine’s recent ‘Person of the Year’ issue, which featured none other than Pope Francis himself – in Blub’s rendering, however, he dons a diving mask with his ecclesiastical garb.

Keep your eyes peeled for the funny figures all over town. TF staff has spotted at least two in the Oltrarno. Check out Blub’s work on Instagram @lartesanuotare and see how many of his or her scuba divers you can find on the streets of Florence.

http://www.theflorentine.net/articles/article-view.asp?issuetocId=9101

I’ll keep you posted when I see more of these great and intriguing pieces around town.  Ciao for now!

Last minute shopping? I’m here to help!

Florence is filled with all manner of earthly delights!

Let’s take a quick buzz around town and find a few last gifts! Va bene?

Something needed for little ones?  Try this store.

IMG_2796

Something beautiful per le donne? How about one of these fine leather products.  I’d love all of them!  I’ve actually got my eye on something on the bottom shelf. Che bella and also practical. How can something that checks both of those boxes be wrong?  Right?

IMG_2802

Need something per il uomo in la tua vita?  I am certain you can find something here.

IMG_2810

And, how about a matching little something something for yourself?

IMG_2811

Does your mind run to confections?  These prettily wrapped pandoro are nice at Eataly.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Or, something from the south of Italy?  Marzipan candies made to look like frutta?  Perche no?

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Do you still have some baking and then some decorating to do?  How about of these little confections?  Marron glace? Sugared roses, violets, or mint leaves? Very pretty!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Marron glace. A steal at 60 Euro ($73) per kilogram.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Sugared rose petals: 120 Euro ($146) per kilogram.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Sugared violets, same price as rose petals.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Mint leaves, same price.

Allora, that was a kiss and a promise of shopping.  You’ll have to wrap your gifts yourself.  Io ho stanco (I’m tired).  Buona fortuna!

Florence streets on the night before the night before: 23 December 2014

So many Medieval streets decorated with delicate white lights. A theme that runs through the city.

IMG_2821 IMG_2822

Each street prettier than the last.  The evening is warm, don’t even need gloves.

IMG_2823

IMG_2800 IMG_2801

All streets in Florence eventually lead to il Duomo.

IMG_2795

But let’s take a detour and stop in the Piazza della Republica to see the lights at the Rinascente department store because they are fabulous!

IMG_2804 IMG_2805 IMG_2806 IMG_2807 IMG_2808IMG_2803

On to il Duomo.

IMG_2789 IMG_2791      IMG_2786 IMG_2787

IMG_2794

Hello Giotto’s campanile!  Do you remember that time when my son was 10 and we climbed to your top with his teddy bear?  I do!  The desk clerk said he had to buy a ticket for his bear.  Remember that?  It was so cute!

Oh, and p.s., my son is now 21.5 years old.  Bet that makes you feel old, right? Ha ha.  You were old before I even met you when I was 28.  Now that was a really long time ago.

IMG_2793

IMG_2797

Il Duomo ed il campanile, you are both looking bellisima for the holidays!  I wish you a hearty buon natale! We are celebrating your entire raison d’etre this week, no?  The story about where it all started.

IMG_2798

Well, enjoy yourselves then and please join me in wishing una Buone feste a tutti the world!

Nothing says Christmas like a wedding dress! Non sequitor alert!

I’m just messing with you!  I know people don’t shop for wedding dresses at Christmastime.

Oh, they do?

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

While rambling down the mean streets of Florence (lots of traffic on foot, bike, Vespa, and cars and dog poop to avoid) I happened upon this pretty shop.  I love the grand, rustic nature of the stone building contrasting with the delicate lace and white tulle of the wedding dresses.  Sonata in red, white, and stone.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Che bella!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Italians go all out for weddings, just as people do the world over.  See my posts from India.  Now that’s a party.

Random photos from this week in Florence, no rhyme or reason

IMG_2776 IMG_2777

In case you didn’t know, I am a push-over for murano blown glass chandeliers.  What home is truly a home without one of these in it?  Not my home!

IMG_2778 IMG_2779 IMG_2780 IMG_2782 IMG_2784

Antique shops with Aniya on the Via de Serragli in Oltrarno.  Fun days.

IMG_2785

School days.

IMG_2764 IMG_2765

La mia professoressa carina dell’italiano.

IMG_2767

And the lessons she tortures us with :-))

DSCN2247

And my other darling Italian teacher who drills us with rules!

DSCN2246

My funny teacher and my funny classmate.

Lunch time at a local osteria.

IMG_2769

An absolutely adorable bambina and her very proud daddy (mommy too, just across the table)!

.IMG_2770

IMG_2771

Street art.

IMG_2772

Great week in Firenze!

Another heavenly Florentine pharmacy

The lovely pharmacy I posted about recently has stiff competition in a country where the herbalist’s art is alive and well.  Judging from the products overflowing from every actual pharmacy in the town as well as the many naturalistic products shops, the Italians place a high value on nature when composing their bath and beauty elixirs.

annunciata

The Farmacia SS. Annunziata traces its beginnings to the 16th century, thus a relative newcomer compared to the Officina dells Santa Maria Novella.  But, the history of the SS. Annunciata is also quite venerable.  By the 16th century we can identify the first manager of the pharmacy, one Domenico di Vincenzo Brunetti, and since his time the pharmacy has maintained its special tradition of preparing medicines and herbal products for the bath and body.

annuc9

The Farmacia is located in Florence at both #30 (black) and #80 (red) on the well-worn Via dei Servi which branches directly off the Duomo grounds.  The pharmacy’s unusual number identifiers speak to the arcane Florentine system of giving businesses a red address number and residences a black number address.  It is easy to get confused, but that is just what a trip to Italy is all about in a sense.

annuc8

The pharmacy’s building dates to 1400, the street on which it is situated was paved in 1421. Florence was then one of the richest and most powerful cities in all of Europe. The pharmacy’s original name was The Domenico di Vincenzo Brunetti Apothecary, dating to 1561.  Domenico himself was a member of the important Florentine guild, the Arte dei Medici e Speziali, and he opened his chemist’s shop where he could sell the many medicinal herbs and concoctions he mixed.  In 1935, the pharmacy was renamed Farmacia della SS. Annunziata.


Today the pharmacy is both owned and managed by the Azzerlini family. The family takes pains to assure us that even though modern methods are used today to prepare their products, the same recipes and care are taken with each formulation.

annunciata1

That’s good to know because ever since 1561, this venerable pharmacy has always had a particular tradition in formulating products for the hygiene and beauty of the skin. Back in the day, products were made by hand with palette knives and mortar and pestles.

annunciata2
The educational leaflet that accompanies purchases from the Farmacia SS. Annunziata says the following: “The pharmacy uses only the highest quality ingredients available on the global market and preparation is done with precision using advanced, high-tech machinery. The finished product is always fresh and in accordance with all current technical and legislative standards and the psycho-physical needs of the client, as well as the needs of the skin according to the climate and/or seasonal changes, are always carefully considered in the making of both new and old products. None of the old traditions have been lost. None of the benefits of modern technology have been neglected.”

annuc10

Farmacia SS Annunziata is in fact one of the oldest of all Italian apothecaries, and it is thought that it may have existed in particular for the Benedictine monastery in 15th-century Florence. Today, the mode of production is modernized, but always with an eye for the respect of the tradition and style of the house.

Farmacia SS. Annuziata currently boasts 23 perfumes, all created between 2010 and 2012.  It is clear the Farmacia has endeavored to make itself relevant and profitable in today’s Florentine tourist marketplace.

annuc6

annuc4

annuc5

annuciato2

I was at the pharmacy yesterday, spoke to one of the owners, and purchased some finely scented bubble bath made with marigold essence.  I’ll let you know how I like it!

annuc.4