Creative Christmas trees

Before the season has completely come and gone, I wanted to show you how some creative businesses in Florence use the Christmas tree design but in a more or less two dimensional fashion.  I’ve never seen this before and I like it!

These trees are left in their natural green, with no decorations.

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While this one has flocked the trees.  Which do you prefer?  I like them both!

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I suppose it wasn’t that much of a leap to the creative types in Florence to come up with the use of the Christmas tree, for don’t forget that Florentines have always decorated their public spaces in such a fashion: see what I mean on the famed Orsan Michele?

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The picture above is an exterior wall of the church, Orsan Michele,  that you walk by several times a day as you wander around Florence,  and the base of the niche that houses the sculpture is right at you eye level.

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And the use of the 2 dimensional tree design reminded me of the wall design in one of my luxurious hotel rooms in India 10 months ago:

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Cool beans!

1 due 3

Uno, due, tre. Numbers the Italian way.

Let’s call it Florence 1, 2, 3 today, with 3 fun Florence-related topics.

We’ll designate numero uno as the mighty Arno.  Do you know much about the Arno River besides the fact that it flows through Florence?

No? Well, come on along.

Here’s where it flows.

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The Arno and the Tiber, which flows through Roma of course, are the two most important rivers in central Italy.  But only the Arno is Tuscan, which makes it extra special.

Our river Arno originates on Mount Falterona in the Apennine Mountains. As you can see in the map, the river heads south and then turns to the west near the town of Arezzo and then north and then west before passing through Florence, Empoli, and Pisa, before flowing in the Tyrrhenian Sea at Pisa’s marina, as you see in the photo below.

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When the Arno flows through Florence, it passes underneath several notable bridges including the Ponte Vecchio and the Santa Trinita bridge that Michelangelo inspired but was built by Bartolomeo Ammanati.  Of all the bridges in town, Hitler left only the Ponte Vecchio standing, but I’ll discuss that later.

The Arno can be dangerous. Sometimes, it can devolve to almost dry. However, with heavy rainfall, the river can surge to calamitous levels and output.  The river has flooded Florence regularly throughout history and the last occasion was the horrendous flood of 1966, which I wrote a bit about here. Dams have been built upstream from Florence and have, presumably, decreased the chances of Florence flooding again.

According to Wikipedia, the 1966 flood collapsed the embankment in Florence, with a loss of life numbering 40 and damaging or destroying millions of works of art and rare books. The only good thing anyone can say about the 1966 flood was that new conservation techniques for artworks were developed afterwards, but even 40 years later, hundreds of works still await restoration.

Just last January in this year of 2014, the Arno rose precipitously high.  Here’s what it looked like on Jan. 31, 2014 in Pisa:

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Yikes!


Topic numero due is the Ponte Vecchio, which means “Old Bridge” in Italian.

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And yep, it’s pretty old alright.  How about Medieval even? This landmark, Medieval, stone, pedestrian-only bridge, is noted for having ritzy shops all along it. Today jewelers and art dealers are located across the bridge, whereas originally it was butchers who occupied the shops.

The bridge spans the Arno at its narrowest point and it is believed that the very first Roman era bridge also crossed the river at this same spot.  The bridge is first documented in 996.  It was destroyed by a flood in 1117; reconstructed in stone but swept away by a flood again in 1333; and rebuilt in 1345 with the Torre dei Mannelli erected at its SE corner for defense.

Here’s an interesting point: The Ponte Vecchio was the only bridge the retreating Germans did not destroy on August 4, 1944. This was allegedly because of an express order by Herr Hitler himself who had visited Florence and supposedly loved the medieval Ponte Vecchio. Despite letting the Medieval bridge stand, the Germans made it all but impossible to access the Ponte Vecchio, however, because both ends of the bridge were obstructed by the destruction of the neighboring buildings.  All we can say is, “thanks a lot Herr Hitler.”  You’re all heart as we have always known.

In true Florentine tradition, the Ponte Vecchio was again restored and rebuilt, using a combination of original and modern design techniques.


And now for numero tre: let me see, what random fact would be fun to talk about?

How about this “what does it mean in cooking when you say something is ‘florentine?’ ”

I am so happy you asked that!

What Does Florentine Mean in Cooking, anyhoo??

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You’d probably think that it just means anything prepared in the cooking style of Florence, Italy but actually, in modern usage, it for some reason means dishes created using spinach as a main ingredient. Spinach may have become associated with Florence as a result of the influence of Catherine de Medici. According to popular folklore, in the mid 1600s, Catherine, the queen consort of King Henry II and a native of Florence, introduced spinach dishes at court and proclaimed the culinary innovation as “Florentine.”

No matter how obscure the reasons, however, the term “Florentine” is now synonymous with spinach, often in egg dishes and dishes with rich, creamy sauces.

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Uh…yum!

So there you go, 1 due 3.

European drivers.

Europeans, like some Americans, drive on the right side of the road, except in England, where they drive on both sides of the road; France, where they drive up on the sidewalk; and Italy, where if necessary, they will follow you right into the hotel lobby.    Dave Barry

Also by Dave Barry: The only rule that I could discern governing Italian drivers–enforceable by punishment by death–was this one: No car whatsoever is allowed to remain behind another car.

A view with a room.

Just like every other place on earth, Florence has ghost stories.

And a certain square in Florence, namely the Piazza Santissima Annunziata, has a romantic ghost story connected to it.

First: Here’s the square.  It isn’t the best-kept part of Florence, which is a shame for it is home to the wonderful Ospedale degli Innocenti designed in the “new Tuscan style” of 15th-century Florence by the master architect, Brunelleschi (he who designed the Duomo’s dome).

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Below is the Ospedale, or “foundling hospital,” or orphanage.

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The square sits in the center of Florence, relatively close to the city’s central heart of il Duomo. The Piazza is a 15 minute walk from my home here.

A patrician palazzo stands facing the Piazza in the furthest west position on the square is known today interchangeably as il Palazzo Grifoni o il Palazzo Budini Gattai, and this is the building attached to a romantic ghost story.  It is a mystery known in Italian as

“La finestra sempre aperta!”

and it goes something like this:

Once upon a time, there was a rich young man who lived in this palazzo.  He fell in love with a beautiful maiden and a marriage was arranged. The girl moved into the palazzo with his parents to wait for him, for he was leaving for war.

The young maiden sat embroidering in her room, day after day, year after year, looking out the window, watching for her handsome finace to return from battle. It is said that the top right window in the palazzo is the window next to which she sat.

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Sadly, the young warrior never returned to his home in Florence and the girl grew into a woman and then into an old woman and she eventually died in the room near the window which she had spent her life looking out.

After her death, her room was cleared and the window was shut.  But then strange things started happening.  Doors and windows in the palazzo started slamming open and shut, the lights went off and on, and all manner of disruptive things kept happening.  At last the window in the girl’s window blew open and the caretakers discovered that as long as that window stayed open, things in the palazzo were calm.

And that is why, so they say, that this window always remains open, as indeed you see in my pictures.

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On the day after Christmas, my true love said to me: Let’s go to the Piazza della Repubblica, Odeon Cinema, Gucci Museum and leave the damn partridge in the frickin’ pear tree!

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The topics for today’s lecture are:

RED, a restaurant, Piazza della Repubblica

Odeon Cinema, near Palazzo Strozzi in the Piazza Strozzi

Gucci Museum, Piazza della Signoria

Are you ready to get down to business?  OK, pens and notebooks at the ready, let’s begin!  Cominciamo!

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After a beautiful, quiet Christmas Day, which brought together (virtually and actually) all of the people and things I love, today a new friend and I had a nice lunch at the restaurant inside Feltrinelli Bookstore on the Piazza della Repubblica.  Certain parts of Florence are so contemporary in design that it is almost breathtaking to someone who has been coming here for over 30 years. C’est moi.

The modern little bistro inside Feltrinelli’s is called RED, which stands for Read, Eat, Dream–in English, alas–I am beginning to fear that Italian itself will be outmoded in cosmopolitan Firenze in my lifetime!

Che tragedia!

Yes, it will indeed be a tragedy if Italian is lost in the Florentine world of the spoken word.

But it is holiday time and let’s not discuss the perils of the americanization da bella Firenze. Give it a rest, people!

I’ll retrace my steps today and round out the lecture with pictures and a map.

We started at the Piazza della Repubblica, which is a mighty square within the city’s fabric. You can find it here just to the left of center, 1/2 way between top and bottom:

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The square looks like this from above:

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Feltrinelli and RED are inside the beautiful loggia which runs across the south side of the Piazza della Repubblica. In the picture below you can see the ground-floor loggia running out both sides from the center arch.

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The bookstore is located inside the loggia.

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And RED is located inside the bookstore.

Are you with me?

You got it?

Good!

Okay then, let’s look inside!

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Very sleek and cool, no?

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RED is a chic little bistro with a small menu of great dishes.  I went all American and had a hamburger served with carmelized onions and freshly home-made potatoes chips.  It was great!

Our next stop was the Odeon theater near Palazzo Strozzi in Piazza Strozzi.

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I wish all movie theaters could be as pretty and elegant as the Odeon!  I mean, look at the interior!!

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We sat in the gold velveteen covered comfortable chairs in the orchestra section.  It wouldn’t have mattered what movie we saw, as it was the experience of the theater and the city we were after.  But, as it happens, we saw a good film about Ireland (Jimmy’s Hall). 

The theater experience in this fine Italian cinema includes a coffee bar where you can get a great cafe or cappucino, and beer or wine, certain liquors, and apperitivi, as well as snacks. The Italians know how to make the movie experience, as so many of life’s everyday events, memorable!

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The two bars at either end of the lobby look something like the picture above.

We strolled through the historic center of Florence, heading back towards our apartments in the Santa Croce neighborhood and as it was dusk but still early, we decided to have a bite and a pot of tea at the elegant restaurant at the Gucci Museum on the Piazza della Signoria. 

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The restaurant inside is tres chic!  Really modern, stylish, and gorgeous.

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Even the brown and white sugar cubes are embossed into the Gucci symbol.

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The ceramic tea sets and other dishes are beautiful as well, as one would expect from a world-class operation such as this!

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It was a pretty amazing day and when we returned, the partridge had flown the coop. So, I guess Christmas is officially over for me.

But wait, Jan. 6, 2015 will be the day that La Befana visits, so not so fast, buster!

Florence snow video

We are not having snow here today (in fact it is really warm, I have roses blooming on my piazza), but I am still hopeful that it  will snow this winter.  I love snow!

But here’s what it looks like around here when it does occasionally snow.  It was noted in the records, btw, that Michelangelo created a snowman for the Medici household.  Those were the days!