The gifts are wrapped and the stockings are hung. Are we there yet?!

I’m ready for Christmas to come and go already,

and I’m also crazy for the works by this street artist. Here’s an example I saw last week as well as a write-up from The Florentine on who this artist(s) is and what she/he (they) are up to around the city.

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Art takes a dip

Quirky street art in Florence
by Mary Gray   (February 3, 2014 – 10:30)

Observant Florence wanderers might have recently noticed a new street art series around town. The project? ‘L’arte Sa Nuotare,’ or ‘Art Knows how to Swim.’ The artist? A mysterious figure known only as ‘Blub,’ who has yet to publicly reveal his or her identity. Blub recreates iconic images from such renowned works as Piero della Francesca’s The Duke of Urbino and Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, dressing them in scuba and swim gear. But contemporary famous faces aren’t immune: the artist also reproduced the cover of TIME magazine’s recent ‘Person of the Year’ issue, which featured none other than Pope Francis himself – in Blub’s rendering, however, he dons a diving mask with his ecclesiastical garb.

Keep your eyes peeled for the funny figures all over town. TF staff has spotted at least two in the Oltrarno. Check out Blub’s work on Instagram @lartesanuotare and see how many of his or her scuba divers you can find on the streets of Florence.

http://www.theflorentine.net/articles/article-view.asp?issuetocId=9101

I’ll keep you posted when I see more of these great and intriguing pieces around town.  Ciao for now!

Last minute shopping? I’m here to help!

Florence is filled with all manner of earthly delights!

Let’s take a quick buzz around town and find a few last gifts! Va bene?

Something needed for little ones?  Try this store.

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Something beautiful per le donne? How about one of these fine leather products.  I’d love all of them!  I’ve actually got my eye on something on the bottom shelf. Che bella and also practical. How can something that checks both of those boxes be wrong?  Right?

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Need something per il uomo in la tua vita?  I am certain you can find something here.

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And, how about a matching little something something for yourself?

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Does your mind run to confections?  These prettily wrapped pandoro are nice at Eataly.

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Or, something from the south of Italy?  Marzipan candies made to look like frutta?  Perche no?

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Do you still have some baking and then some decorating to do?  How about of these little confections?  Marron glace? Sugared roses, violets, or mint leaves? Very pretty!

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Marron glace. A steal at 60 Euro ($73) per kilogram.

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Sugared rose petals: 120 Euro ($146) per kilogram.

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Sugared violets, same price as rose petals.

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Mint leaves, same price.

Allora, that was a kiss and a promise of shopping.  You’ll have to wrap your gifts yourself.  Io ho stanco (I’m tired).  Buona fortuna!

Florence streets on the night before the night before: 23 December 2014

So many Medieval streets decorated with delicate white lights. A theme that runs through the city.

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Each street prettier than the last.  The evening is warm, don’t even need gloves.

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All streets in Florence eventually lead to il Duomo.

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But let’s take a detour and stop in the Piazza della Republica to see the lights at the Rinascente department store because they are fabulous!

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On to il Duomo.

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Hello Giotto’s campanile!  Do you remember that time when my son was 10 and we climbed to your top with his teddy bear?  I do!  The desk clerk said he had to buy a ticket for his bear.  Remember that?  It was so cute!

Oh, and p.s., my son is now 21.5 years old.  Bet that makes you feel old, right? Ha ha.  You were old before I even met you when I was 28.  Now that was a really long time ago.

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Il Duomo ed il campanile, you are both looking bellisima for the holidays!  I wish you a hearty buon natale! We are celebrating your entire raison d’etre this week, no?  The story about where it all started.

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Well, enjoy yourselves then and please join me in wishing una Buone feste a tutti the world!

Nothing says Christmas like a wedding dress! Non sequitor alert!

I’m just messing with you!  I know people don’t shop for wedding dresses at Christmastime.

Oh, they do?

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While rambling down the mean streets of Florence (lots of traffic on foot, bike, Vespa, and cars and dog poop to avoid) I happened upon this pretty shop.  I love the grand, rustic nature of the stone building contrasting with the delicate lace and white tulle of the wedding dresses.  Sonata in red, white, and stone.

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Che bella!

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Italians go all out for weddings, just as people do the world over.  See my posts from India.  Now that’s a party.

Presepio, Italian for nativity scene

Truly, the loveliest and most impressive presepio I’ve ever seen is the one shown annually at this time of year at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.  And of course, don’t you know, like a lot of the best stuff ever made, the entire set of figures and accoutrements came from Italy! Baroque Neapolitan Italy in this case. It just all makes sense!

Everybody knows the Met is one of the smartest institutions on planet earth and it is just brilliant that they combine their gorgeous presepio with a towering, elegant 20 foot tall Christmas tree.

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All presepios (presipi in Italian) or Nativity scenes include figures representing the baby Jesus with his mother Mary and Joseph. Other characters as described in the gospel of Luke are often found in a presepio, such as shepherds and sheep, angels and a manger in a barn or cave intended to house farm animals. Usually a donkey and an ox are included as well as the Magi and camels that brought them to Bethlehem as described in the gospel of Matthew.

Italy, France, and other traditionally Catholic countries have, over the centuries, added an array of other characters and objects to their Nativity scenes, some of which may or may not be be found in the Biblical descriptions.

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The Met’s 18th-century Baroque Neapolitan Nativity scene contains a profuse array of diminutive, lifelike attendant figures and silk-robed angels hovering above alight all over the surface of the tree.  More than 200 figures comprise the set and were given to the Museum by Loretta Hines Howard starting in 1964 (you gotta love another Loretta!). The presipio and tree have been displayed each holiday season for nearly 40 years.

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The following is taken from the MMA’s website description of their presepio:

“The Museum’s towering tree, glowing with light, is adorned with cherubs and some fifty gracefully suspended angels. The landscape at the base displays the figures and scenery of the Neapolitan Christmas crib. This display mingles the three basic elements traditional in eighteenth-century Naples: the Nativity, with adoring shepherds and their flocks; the procession of the three Magi and their exotically dressed retinue of Asians and Africans; and, most distinctively, a crowd of colorful townspeople and peasants. The theatrical scene is enhanced by a charming assortment of animals—sheep, goats, horses, a camel, and an elephant—and by background pieces serving as the dramatic setting for the Nativity, including the ruins of a Roman temple, several quaint houses, and a typical Italian fountain with a lion’s-mask waterspout.


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The origin of the popular Christmas custom of restaging the Nativity traditionally is credited to Saint Francis of Assisi. The employment of manmade figures to reenact the hallowed events soon developed and reached its height of complexity and artistic excellence in eighteenth-century Naples. There, local families vied to outdo each other in presenting elaborate and theatrical presepios, often assisted by professional stage directors. The finest sculptors of the period—including Giuseppe Sammartino and his pupils Salvatore di Franco, Giuseppe Gori, and Angelo Viva—were called on to model the terracotta heads and shoulders of the extraordinary crèche figures.


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The Museum’s presepio figures, each a work of art, range from 6 to 20 inches in height. They have articulated bodies of tow and wire, heads and shoulders modeled in terracotta and polychromed to perfection. The luxurious and colorful costumes, many of which are original, were often sewn by ladies of the collecting families and enriched by jewels, embroideries, and elaborate accessories, including gilded censers, scimitars and daggers, and silver filigree baskets. The placement of the approximately fifty large angels on the Christmas tree and the composition of the crèche figures and landscape vary slightly from year to year as new figures are added.”


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Many years ago, when I was a Chester Dale Fellow at the Met, I had the privilege of working daily in that great American museum in my small but divine office space while researching and writing my doctoral dissertation.  As the days grew shorter and the museum got darker –earlier and earlier in late afternoons early evenings– I could sense that the winter holidays were upon us. Every year, before Thanksgiving, the Met’s staff were hard at work sectioning off the area of the museum when the presipio and tree are annually installed.  Careful spacing and timing are required to raise the precious installation.


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As noted in the MMA description above, Saint Francis of Assisi is credited with having created the 1st known Nativity scene in 1223, having been inspired by his recent visit to the Holy Land and seeing the site of Jesus’s traditional birth. The scene Saint Francis created was a living scene, a tableaux vivant, that is, using living people and animals to portray the Biblical account.The scene’s popularity inspired communities throughout Catholic countries to stage similar pantomimes.  You can find similar enactments throughout the Christmas services of thousands of American churches today.

Ciao, ragazzi!  Buona notte!


Random photos from this week in Florence, no rhyme or reason

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In case you didn’t know, I am a push-over for murano blown glass chandeliers.  What home is truly a home without one of these in it?  Not my home!

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Antique shops with Aniya on the Via de Serragli in Oltrarno.  Fun days.

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School days.

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La mia professoressa carina dell’italiano.

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And the lessons she tortures us with :-))

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And my other darling Italian teacher who drills us with rules!

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My funny teacher and my funny classmate.

Lunch time at a local osteria.

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An absolutely adorable bambina and her very proud daddy (mommy too, just across the table)!

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Street art.

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Great week in Firenze!