Un mazzo di fiori

Un mazzo di fiori = a bouquet, in English (borrowed from the French).

img_9562

 

There’s a tiny flower shop on one end of Vasari’s Loggia dei Pesce, which used to be in the area of present-day Piazza Republica but was moved and reassembled in its current location in the Piazza dei Ciompi in 1956.

In the photo below, you can see the diminutive Loggia and at the very end, the small kiosk flower shop.

piazza_dei_ciompi

The flower shop looks like this from the front:

img_9559

I love this little shop.  I walk by it at least once a week and I never go by without stopping to admire, and sometimes to buy, some of the beautiful flowers and horticultural wonders.  I currently have several forced hyacinth bulbs blooming in my apartment.  They were purchased last week at the shop.

img_9560img_9561img_9563img_9564

Here you will find fresh-cut ranunculus, roses, the prettiest shades of tulips, as well as cyclamens and trellised plants of winter berries.

img_9565img_9566img_9567img_9568

Carnations as well.  Lots of sprays of grasses and even some tropical leaves.  It’s a tiny place, but a lot of wonderful things are packed in!

Trattoria Cammillo

I’ve had the great pleasure of dining at Cammillo, the trattoria just south of the Ponte Santa Trinita, in Florence pretty much every time I’ve been in the city since my first trip to Italy in 1979.

It has never disappointed, not once.  My first excursion there was with a date who wanted to impress, and impress he did.  I never dine there without thinking of Eli.  He was very gallant.

cammillo_firenze_01

cammillo_firenze_02

 

I love the location, the ambience and the history behind the restaurant almost as much as the food. The current owner’s grandfather, Camillo, opened the trattoria in 1945.  When the first sign he ordered for his new restaurant arrived with his name misspelled, he couldn’t afford a new sign, so he kept it.

images-3

Under this misspelled sign, he blended Bolognese and Tuscan dishes for the construction crews who were at work rebuilding the bridges and palaces destroyed by the Nazis at the end of the war.  Today the family farm in Tuscany provides the trattoria with many of the fresh ingredients used to prepare the dishes served.

images-4

 

images-5

 

Cammillo was where I first tasted bistecca fiorentina, grilled to absolute perfection and topped with freshly squeezed lemon juice.  Once you try it, you can never go back!

 

images-6

 

It seems I’m not the only one who loves Cammillo. Mimi Sheraton, writer for the New York Times, wrote that she dined at Cammillo each time she visited Florence from 1953.  Who can blame her?
Trattoria Cammillo
Borgo S. Jacopo 57/r
tel. 055 212427

The Lungarno Acciaiuoli (or, how many vowels can you actually put in the center of one word?).

On either side of the long, languid Arno River that bisects Florence from east to west, run parallel roads, called the Lungarni.  These long roadways are, in typical Florentine fashion, divided up every few blocks or so, with various names.

veduta-arno-iv

Italy has a lot of history and Florence in particular has a lot of names to commemorate.  The Lungarni passages provide a fertile field for memorializing important names.   Here they are:

North shore (from the west):

Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci
Lungarno Corsini
Lungarno Acciaiuoli
Lungarno Archibusieri
Lungarno Anna Maria Luisa de ‘Medici
Lungarno General Armando Diaz
Lungarno delle Grazie
Lungarno della Zecca Vecchia
Lungarno William Galeazzo
Lungarno del Tempio
Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo
Lungarno Aldo Moro

 

South shore (from the west):

Lungarno Bruno Buozzi (Lastra a Signa)
Lungarno dei Pioppi
Lungarno del Pignone
Lungarno Santa Rosa
Lungarno Soderini
Lungarno Guicciardini
Lungarno Torrigiani
Lungarno Serristori
Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini
Lungarno Francesco Ferrucci

As you can see, a lot of names were used in naming the sections of the Lungarni!

It fills me with some kind strange pride to note that I’ve had the personal good fortune to live on three sections of the Lungarni thus far in this lifetime (who knows about other lifetimes?  I can’t remember!): in the Oltrarno I had the pleasure of living for time on the Lungarno Serristori and later the Lungarno Torrigiani.  I loved every minute of both locations.  There is no better way of exploring a new area of the city than living in it for a while!

My focus today is on the North side of the river and on the section of the Lungarno on which I currently have the amazing luck to live. The prestigious Lungarno Acciaiuoli is the stretch of the north bank of the Arno River in Florence that runs from the Ponte Vecchio to the Ponte Santa Trinita.  This area of Florence is among the most elegant areas in the city.

My short passage of the Lungarno ends at the east end at the storied Ponte Vecchio and overlooks, on its west end, the Torre Consorti, and one side of the Palazzo Spini-Feroni, home of the Salvatore Ferragamo palazzo and museum.  It’s a tony avenue.

screen-shot-2017-01-28-at-7-18-01-pm

In olden times,  this section of the Lungarno was called i cappellai or “the hatters,” after the Florentine hat makers  who located their shops here.

Later, in the 19th C.,  two of the most important Florentine hotels were located here: the Grand Hotel Royal de l’Arno and the Hotel Royal de la Grande Bretagne.  Charles Dickens, Henry James and many others stayed in these famous hotels.  Sometimes, when I am walking around Florence on streets where I know for a fact that famous personalities from the past passed over, I imagine for a moment what it would be like to bump into, say Dante Alighieri or  Charles Dickens walking around town.  I’ve always had this sort of imagination.

Still standing from that era is the Hotel Berchielli, the ancient building that miraculously survived the landlines set by the retreating German army during WWII. This historic building has housed the Hotel Berchielli since 1890 and is among the most famous hotels in the center of Florence.

A marble plaque on the façade recalls the frequent stays of Romain Rolland, a distinguished literary critic and the winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1915.  Rolland chose the Hotel Berchielli as his Florentine residence.

ROMAIN ROLLAND
INSIGNE WRITER
AND ART CRITIC
sTAYed HERE
IN 1911

And while you may not be familiar with Rolland, I’m sure you know that guy named Pablo Picasso, who also, several decades later, took up residence in the hotel (fall of 1949).

Also marking the area is a plaque at Red All’84-86, of Palazzo Spini Feroni:

AVSPICIIS. ET. MVNIFICENTIA
Ferdinandi. III. M. D. ETR.
AEDIVM. SPINORVM. partem
ARCV. VIAE. IMPOSITO. FLVMINI. ANTEA. IMPENDENTEM
SERIOUS. PERICVLO. DILAPSVRAM
COMMVNE. FLORENTINORVM
A.D. CIVIVM. SECVRITATEM. ET. Maiorem. AMOENITATEM. LOCI
ONLY. AEQVANDAM. CVRAVIT
YEAR. MDCCCXXIII.
VEXILLIFERO. Iacobo. COMITE. Gvido

images

The translation is: “Under the auspices and through the munificence of Ferdinand III, Grand Duke of Tuscany, the City of Florence in the year 1823, being the standard-bearer Count Jacopo Guidi, demolished for safety of citizens, and greater beauty of the place, the part of the houses the Spini who first faced the river on a place at the turn of the bow away and threatened to collapse with grave danger. ”

(reference: Francesco Cesati, the great leader of the streets of Florence, Newton Compton Editori, Rome 2003).

From the Lungarno Acciaiuoli, the world of Florence’s history, culture and elegance are readily available.

On the Lungarno Acciaiuoli, looking towards east to Ponte Vecchio:

lungarno-acciaiuoli-ponte-vecchio

Looking from the embankment in the opposite direction, towards the west, one can admire the graceful Ponte Santa Trinita, about which I will be posting soon. This bridge is considered to be one of the most elegant and refined bridges in Italy in particular or in all of Europe. The line of arches that create the bridge, along with the white scrolls on the summit of each arch, and the four statues placed on the corners to represent the seasons, the bridge is one of a kind. Standing on the bridge provides a unique panorama or the lovely Arno through this area.

The Lungarno Acciaiuioli is considered, along with the current Lungarno Corsini, to be the most ancient road opened along the Arno river.  This section of the Lungarni has a varied character, marked as it is by two building from the Middle Ages (the Consorti tower and Palazzo Spini Feroni), as well as restored buildings from the 19th-century and still others rebuilt in the 1950s and 60s with a modern character.

What a street!