Uffizi, the Leonardo da Vinci gallery

My recent first trip back to the Uffizi allowed me to enjoy the famed museum without the usual crowds.  This is my idea of heaven.  Just look:

 

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Come with me into the new Leonardo da Vinci and Andrea del Verrochio gallery. Look at the blissful moment capture below, during which I had the gallery almost to myself.

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Andrea del Verrochio’s painting of the Baptism of Christ.  Verrochio’s student, Leonardo da Vinci, assisted in painting. Most notably, the far left angel.

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Leonardo’s Annunciation in a virtually empty gallery. My idea of heaven.

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More to come from my June 25, 2020 visit.

Back to the Uffizi! Part 1, June 2020

What a joy to return to this wonderful museum.  Despite the fact that Americans still can’t travel to Italy because of the Covid 19, I was surprised by the line outside the Uffizi.  Once inside, however, the crowds thinned out after the first few galleries.

I had the new Michelangelo and Raphael gallery virtually to myself.  Speaking of joy.  It was so meaningful to me to be able to get up close and personal again with these amazing works of art.

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Michelangelo’s Doni Tondo:

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The Uffizi says of this painting:
This painting dates to when Michelangelo returned to Florence after his first stay in Rome, the same period when the great artist sculpted the famous David.

The work (c. 1506-1508) is the only painting by Michelangelo in Florence and is one of the masterpieces of the 16th century Italian art.

During the Renaissance, the “tondo” was a typical work for private clients. This tondo was commissioned by the wealthy banker Agnolo Doni, probably at the time of his marriage to Maddalena, member of the very important Strozzi family.

The figures of Mary, Joseph and the Child, are grouped in a single volume in which the rotation of the Madonna gives the composition a spiral movement that will later be used by many artists. In the background a group of young nudes brings to mind a classic theme, symbolizing the pagan humanity still ignorant of Christian doctrine. It is also interesting to notice the beautiful carved wooden frame, designed by Michelangelo himself.

From the artistic point of view, the Tondo Doni laid the foundations of the so-called Mannerism, the style of painting that preferred bizarre, unnatural poses and iridescent colors to the composed painting of the XV century.

The Tondo Doni is therefore a very important work of art because it is one of the few examples of Michelangelo’s painting, together with the magnificent frescoes in the Vatican’s Sistine Chapel.

 

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Raphael’s Madonna of the Goldfinch:

 

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Raphael’s portrait of Guidobaldo da Montefeltro, 1503-06:

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Raphael: Portrait of Elisabetta Gonzaga, 1503-06.

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Raphael: Portraits of Agnolo Doni and Maddalena Strozzi, 1504-06/

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The Uffizi has hung the Doni portraits in a manner allowing us to see the very interesting backs of the paintings:

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Today (June 25, 2020) was a great day in Florence!

 

 

On the Michelangelo trail in Rome

I’m in Rome!  Woo hoo!  All roads lead here and I couldn’t wait to follow one of them and to enjoy the city without the usual summer hordes of tourists.

I spent the lockdown refreshing my study of Michelangelo and I’m on his trail here in Rome.  I started my visit today by admiring the beautiful Porta Pia.

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The elaborate Porta Pia is a gate in the Aurelian Walls of Rome, designed by Michelangelo for Pope Pius IV.  Construction began in 1561 and ended in 1565, after the artist’s death. A 1561 bronze commemorative medal by Gianfederico Bonzagna shows an early plan by Michelangelo, very different from his final design. 

 

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A new gate was needed because by the mid 16th century,  the newly developing urban area outside the walls couldn’t gain access through the nearby ancient Porta Nomentana from the Via Nomentana. It was decided to add a new gate to the walls, and, according to Vasari, Michelangelo presented three different designs to the Pope, which were beautiful but too extravagant, and the Pope chose the least expensive of the three. Unfortunately, the drawings are not extant and it is not known if  the work was actually carried out to Michelangelo’s original plan.

The gate was, however, Michelangelo’s last architectural work.  He died shortly before the structure was completed. The work was carried out by Giacomo Del Duca, who also built Porta San Giovanni, seen below.

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The Porta Pia is one of the 18 gates inserted in the defensive Aurelian Walls.

 

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Interestingly, the opposite side of the Porta Pia is also quite interesting. It was constructed in 1869 in the Neo-Classic design by Virginio Vespignani.

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The Aurelian wall was breached during the Risorgimento.  This fabulous vintage photograph, dating to after 1870, shows the breach to the right of the gate.

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It was through an artillery-opened breach – known as the “Porta Pia breach” – that on September 20, 1870 Bersaglieri soldiers entered Rome to complete the unification of Italy. A marble and bronze monument is to be found at the exact point of the breach.

This painting by Carlo Ademollo, 1880, shows the Kingdom of Italy troops breaching the Aurelian Walls at Porta Pia during the Capture of Rome.

Here also, on September 11, 1926, the antifascist activist Gino Lucetti threw a bomb against the car transporting Benito Mussolini.  It was without effect.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Donatello, Verrochio and Michelangelo at the Palazzo Vecchio; 3 master Florentine sculptors

In this imposing, Medieval Florentine city hall,

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Reside 3 works by master sculptors of the Italian Renaissance:

First, The Genius of Victory by Michelangelo

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Andrea Verrochio is up next, with his wonderful Putto with a Dolphin:

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And, thirdly, Donatello.  He is one of all-time favorite artists and this sculpture, Judith and Holofernes, is one of his masterpieces. It resides in this gorgeous room.  You can see it on its pedestal to the right.

 

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Palazzo Vecchio (June 2020) Part 2

Here’s the next part of my recent visit to the re-opened Palazzo Vecchio:

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I love the view of the rustic stone through the glass.

 

 

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What a wonderful sink below!  Two spigots that look like fountains:

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The sink is in this elaborate niche:

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Below, you can see the shape of the sink itself:

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Below: the death mask of Dante:

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An amazingly elaborate reliquary:

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Next up, the elaborate Audience Chamber:

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Here’s the ceiling:

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These frescoes “idealize” even war.  I like the colorful tents that housed the troops.  I doubt they were this lovely in real life.

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Donatello’s Judith and Holofernes:

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Early morning walk in Florence

30 June 2020.

The only way to beat the heat of a Florentine summer is to walk the city early in the morning.  Here are some pix from today’s path.

First up: some hot cars on a hot morning.

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The area in front of the restaurant at the Piazzale Michelangelo has a beautiful and well cared for planting.  I love the hues of greens/yellows and lavender.

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There’s a ubiquitous perennial I see all around Florence and I don’t know it’s name.  But it has the prettiest white and vivid red blossoms.  I love it.

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This bee loves these flowers as much–or more–than I do!

 

Every morning, I think I won’t take another picture of the duomo.  And then I see another view that demands that I do!

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I love this view of Santa Croce and the aquamarine dome of the synagogue on the right side.

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And then, walking down the ramps designed in the 19th century by Poggi, I see more incredible views from the Porta San Niccolo.

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Walking across the Ponte alle Grazie, it is fun to see the boaters out on the water near the  Società Canottieri down on the banks of the Arno.

 

 

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I spotted yet another pattern of marble inlay.  I love these old patterns.

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And, a reminder that a century ago, important news often came by letter and telegram.

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