While medieval and Renaissance style buildings abound in Florence, there are magnificent touches of the Baroque to be found as well. Here’s a valuable short article on the subject.
Archaeology
The Pazzi Chapel at Santa Croce
Part 6 of my recent visit to the magnificent Franciscan basilica of Santa Croce. You can find the other posts here.
Check out Santa Croce from the front. I wonder how long we can enjoy the city before the tourists return? Not sure, but I am enjoying every second of the city in its current, quieter state.
When you leave the interior of the church, walking into the cortile, you immediately see the splendid Pazzi Chapel. The chapel wasn’t accessible yet when I was there, but even a look from the outside is enough to calm the soul.
The Pazzi is seen in the plan below; note the circle in the plan and that’s the chapel. You can see how the green lawn in front sets it off. Green grass is a rare commodity in Florence.
Santa Croce, Part 5, June 2020
We have finally reached the final stretch of my recent visit to Santa Croce. For the past few days, I have posted similarly on other parts of the church (you can find the posts here).
First, this tomb commemorating Rossini:
Next up is one of the masterpieces of Santa Croce. It is the tomb for Leonardo Bruni, created by Bernardo Rossellino:
Then, the creme de la creme of sculpture in all of the Renaissance, in my humble opinion. I adore this monument by Donatello.
Moving further along towards the western end of the side aisle, we arrive at Canova’s tomb to Alfieri. I used to swoon for Canova and Neoclassicism. I still like this sculptural work.
And Dante, who was exiled and whose body is preserved in Ravenna. In the 19th century he was given this cenotaph in the celebrity burial place of Florence, Santa Croce.
I love the way the couple is admiring this monument in these pictures.
And then, of course, there is the tomb for Michelangelo, created by Vasari.
And, upon leaving (or entering) the basilica, the font with holy water for the faithful is perhaps the most beautifully wrought example of its kind:
Niccolini tomb on the western wall, between 2 portals.
Santa Croce, part 4, June 2020
Following the recent reopening of this Franciscan basilica, I continue with my first visit of the church (for parts 1, 2 and 3 see here). We begin here at the east end of the basilica, in the chapels to the right of the Peruzzi Chapel:
Below is a major reliquary. I find this aspect of the Roman Catholic Church so strange.
Looking west from the eastern wall, I see this neoclassical tomb.
Castellani Chapel by Agnolo Gaddi and his workshop:
Santa Croce, part 3, June 2020
Following the recent reopening of Florence’s major Franciscan basilica, this is part 3 of my first visit of the church (parts 1 and 2 are here and here). We have reached the altar end of the basilica and here it is in all its glory!
First, let’s have a detailed look at the altar in front of the apse:
Also on display near the altar is this incredible Medieval painted altarpiece depicting St. Francis and scenes from his life:
I will be writing a post on the frescoes in the main chapel behind the altarpiece. Right now, they have it roped off and I couldn’t get into it to take decent pictures. Looking into the apse area behind the main painted altarpiece:
OK, so now we move into the big leagues as far as art historian are concerned. Two of Giotto’s major works are to be found in adjoining chapels in Santa Croce. They are the Bardi and Peruzzi family chapels. The first one is the Bardi chapel, depicting scenes from the life of St. Francis:
And now, the Peruzzi Chapel. Sadly, the frescoes are in very bad condition, having been partially painted a secco by Giotto, which means the true fresco technique did not allow the colors to become a part of the wall. Plus, the frescoes were badly abused over the centuries, sometimes even being covered with white wash.
Here’s an overall view of the 2 family chapels next to each other on the east end of the church. The Bardi is to the left, under the stained glass window, and the Peruzzi is to the right of it:
Museum of the Florence cathedral, final post (for spring of 2020)
Prepare yourself for a huge jump from the Roman and Renaissance eras to the 19th century! The paintings below are from the facade of the duomo, which was erected in the late 19th century.
The Florence cathedral’s art museum
More artworks from my continuing visits of the art museum last week. First up, some Roman art that was to be found in Florence during the Renaissance. Always a source and inspiration for new artists.
Michelangelo’s late Pieta is now undergoing restoration in the museum:
Some Medieval paintings in the museum:
San Zanobi:
3 of Florence’s special saints: Reparata, San Zanobi, and St. John the Baptist:
One of Donatello’s masterpieces: the Mary Magdalene:
A 2nd visit to the Duomo’s art museum
There is a lot to absorb in this incredibly rich museum and I decided to take it in chunks this week. After two great visits, I still need to go back to take in more. Soon.
An elegant, Gothic period, sculptural pas de deux of The Annunciation. It has always been my favorite episode represented in Christian art.
The museum has ingeniously set up the famous bronze doors of the Baptistery so that both the front and back sides can be viewed.
Entering the room that sets up the original, 15th century appearance of the duomo’s facade. Such an impressive feat for a museum.
Great museum labeling provides context. Below, it is explained how the area between the baptistery and the facade of a church was traditionally called a “paradise.” Therefore, Ghiberti’s “Doors of Paradise” so-named by Michelangelo, can be understood in situ.
Below, Pope Boniface VIII by Arnolfo di Cambio, the duomo’s architect.
A reconstruction of the facade:
A plan of the facade:
And now, the second set of doors, for the north side of the Baptistery by Ghiberti:
Above and below, the Annunciation by Ghiberti:
The Gates of Paradise by Ghiberti:
Above you see Ghiberti’s self-portrait in the bust that extend:
The doors by Andrea Pisano for south side of the Baptistery. There were the first of the 3 sets to be done.
A view of the 3 sets of doors as displayed in the museum.
Roman paving stones from 27 BC found beneath Piazza della Rotunda
The medieval baptistery in Florence in open once again
As if to thank the residents of Florence for enduring the 2 month long lockdown, the government has given us free admission into the complex of the duomo. As the 4 buildings of the baptistery, the bell tower, the cathedral and the museum reopen, we can, with reservations made online, visit these sites for free. Hallelujah! I am seriously in need of some artistic nourishment.
I was one of the first people to enter the baptistery on May 22 and, for a period of about 10 minutes, I had the entire place to myself. Wow. That’s an exceedingly rare experience and I’ll remember it forever.
This town and the baptistery are both dedicated to the patron saint of St. John the Baptist.
The next few pictures are of the ceiling and the altar itself in in the altar niche in the baptistery. First, Christ in Majesty in mosaic.
opposite: The Virgin and Child.
Below, the central medallion over the altar.
I really love the simple, medieval decoration of the back wall. It has not been “Renaissanced” up.
The exterior of the baptistery is so wonderful, with the striped patterns made up of creamy white and dark green veneers of marble:
Back inside, the tomb of Pope Paul XXIII by Donatello is under cover for the moment.
Below, more details of the altar space:
And now, for the outstanding mosaic cycle in the domed space above. I’ll never forget confronting the face of Jesus when I made my first visit to Florence when I was 27. I wasn’t prepared for this Byzantine visage, thinking Florence would be all-Renaissance, all the time.
A statue of St. John the Baptist above and below:
The eye wanders up to the dome again and again:
A sarcophagus that looks like it might be a recycled Roman era object, with a lid that clearly relates to Christianity.
I love looking at the gallery space, especially the inlaid ceilings:
The ceiling in the gallery space below is treated with mosaics as well.
And once more, looking up at the dome:
It is also worth looking down. The many-patterned pavement in this august building is superb:
And now for the font, the building’s raison d’être:
And now, one last look at the Baptistery with no one in it but Byzantine Jesus and me.
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