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Art deco Madonna and Child, Florence
I walk by this lovely sculpture about 2x every day, and half the time I am so busy looking down at the cobblestones so I don’t trip that I don’t even look up and see it.
But when I do look up at the palazzo, it repays me with its beauty. I love the rendering of the time-worn subject but here treated with art deco forms. So lovely.


The inscription underneath reads: A Maria Per La Pace, Le Donne Cristiane (to Maria of the Peace, the Christian women).
Yoga studio.
I finally, finally found a place I am comfortable practicing. Bella, no?

Window shopping.



This July is all about language school for me.
I’m going to class everyday, whether I feel like it or not. And, if I’m honest, a lot of times I don’t feel like going. I get tired, it’s exhausting, and somedays class is useful, other days not so much.

Nevertheless: Florence flourishes without me taking note. Here are some recent shoots of this beautiful place:













Happy summer!

May your summer be full of reading!
Stormy skies





My life at the questura
I’ve been in Italy since late last November and only today did I get my official permit to stay, otherwise known as my Permesso di Soggiorno. Let me recount the tale.
Here’s the Questura in Florence. Lovely, right? I wish you could feel the temperature as well, and get a drift of the fragrance. It is icy cold in winter and hades hot in summer!




So, I came to Italy on a student visa last November. That visa took me through March of this year. I had to visit the Questura within 8 days of arriving.
Before going to the Questura in Florence in December, I had to go to the Florence post office and get a “kit” with the documents I needed to submit at the Questura. Completing these documents in black ink (and only black ink; any other will get your documents put in the trash), I also needed to go to a Tabbachi store to purchase a particular francobollo or stamp for a rather high price.
With my completed black ink documents and receipts and francobollo, I paid my first visit to the charming Questura in early December and submitted necessary documents and receipts for monies paid. At that point I was given a date for returning to the Questura to pick up my Permesso.
Unfortunately, the date given was 3 months out, or in March of 2017, which was beyond the time my Student Visa allowed me to be in Italy. A bit of a quandary, but what to do?
I had decided to stay longer in Italy anyhow, and worked with my language school to submit new documents to the Questura showing I would be a student for another 8 months or so, at my appointment in March of 2017.
At my March appointment, with my new documents and pictures and receipts for monies paid, I was fingerprinted and told I would receive an SMS when my Permesso. That was March.
On June 1, I received this SMS. I was to go back to Questura on 29 June at 15,13 o’clock to get my Permesso! Woo hoo! I think I am finally going to get my Permesso!
.
Yesterday, at 15,13 (actually I was early) I arrived at Questura and explained why I was there to the officer in charge. He gave me a number and told me to expect to wait for 2 hours.
He was right, it took 2 hours for my number to be called.

Finally, my number was called and I darted up to the sportello and greeted the bored bureaucrat behind the counter. He fetched my Permesso but explained to me that as of 7 June, a new tax has been added. I needed to pay an additional 40 Euro to get my Permesso.
OK, I said, I can pay you now. I had known to take some money with me, just in case.
Oh, no, he laughed. You can’t pay me! You have to go to the Post Office and pay them and get a receipt and bring it back here. He told me where the nearest PO was and told me I could ask the officer at the front of the Questura if I could return yesterday with my receipt and get another number and get my Permesso. I wanted to do just that. He told me that if the officer told me no for yesterday, I could return today between 9 and 11 a.m. with my receipt.
I went to the officer at the front and asked him if I could dart out, pay the tax, and return the same afternoon (yesterday). No, he said, they would be closed. OK, I said, I’ll come back in the morning.
No, he said, you can’t come back until Monday. I complained and showed him the note the bureaucrat at the sportello had given me. He read it and got his supervisor. They consulted. The supervisor asked me who gave me the note. I told her as best I could and she said yes, you can return tomorrow between 9 and 11 with your receipt.
So, yesterday, after waiting 2 hours at Questura, I went to the big, beautiful neoclassical Post Office in the center of Florence and got a number to wait to pay the new tax that’s been in effect since 7 June.



At least the PO is air conditioned and clean and beautiful. I never really mind waiting there. It gives me a chance to people watch.
Eventually my number was called. I was given a document to complete, asked for 41.50 Euro, and given a stamped receipt and sent on my way.

This morning it was back to the Questura where I got a number and waited while the bureaucrat waited on numbers before me, and then turned out his office light and took what I assume was a break (he was gone 20 mins, fyi), and returned and took a couple people before my number was called.


He remembered me from yesterday. He took my receipt, took the paper I had been given in March, took my two index finger prints, and finally, gave me this.
I have my Permesso! It only took 6 months!
When you got it, flaunt it!
Davero, Il Duomo! You look good from any angle!







What if?
What if you woke up today in Florence and decided you wanted to live in a fantasy world?
Let’s say you thought to yourself “wouldn’t it be cool if I could go into a Renaissance palace in the center of Florence, and be a welcome guest?”
And, further, wouldn’t it be groovy if, when you were in that Renaissance palace, as a welcome guest, you could sit down for a while on a very comfortable, velvet covered chair, and enjoy a glass of nice local wine, while something amazing entertains you.
And, to increase the fantasy, what if this entire experience was air-conditioned, while Florence sizzles in the heat of the summer outside?
And what if I told you that this is actually not a fantasy, but something you could truly experience?! How fast would you beat it there?

One of my favorite places in Florence ticks all of the boxes above. I love going to this place!
The classic art nouveau/deco interior is gilded and gorgeous and makes an average evening at the movies feel like an elegant affair! And an added bonus is, it has air conditioning! A great place to pass a summer evening in broiling Florence.
So, let’s start with the building, which is the Palazzo Stozzino, constructed in 1450s and 60s. Here t’is!

Work on the palace began in 1457. None other than Filippo Brunelleschi is thought to have designed it, but several other architects, among them Michelozzo, also had a hand in the edifice. The façade is attributed to Michelozzo, at least in the lower part, with its rusticated stone facing. Higher floors have been changed during various periods of renovation; they were changed a lot in the 19th century.
Inside the Renaissance palace was a courtyard surrounded by an elegant porch with columns; it is thought Michelozzo designed the cortile and that it was built around 1460. The Palazzo Strozzino took its name after the larger Palazzo Strozzi.
The entire area around the palazzi Strozzi and Strozzini was changed during the 1860s, when Florence became the capitol of Italy. Many buildings were razed. Fortunately, these two palaces were spared.
The story goes that it was the suggestion of a famous Italian actress, Eleonora Duse, to transform the Strozzino into a cinema. Apparently the people who owned the palace in the 1920s were considering turning the building into a luxury hotel. Duse is said to have convinced them into building this stately cinema instead.
At any rate, it was somehow decided to create a cinema in the Strozzino’s courtyard. The Cinema Teatro Savoia was designed by noted architect Marcello Piacentini in 1920 and finished in 1922; the theatre was lavishly inaugurated in December of 1922.


At the same time, two of the palace’s facades were redesigned, and a circular temple-shaped lantern was placed on a corner with bronze nude efibici, by the sculptor Marescalchi.

Inside the cinema, the sculptor Giovanni Gronchi created the lacunars and stucco plaques, and sculptor Antonio Maraini designed the three Muses in gilded and polychromed wood on the boccascena. Other specialized artists and firms created the elaborate decorative interior.


The theatre was later re-named Cinema Teatro Odeon, and it is now operated by the Cinehall Group. It remains a first-run single screen cinema. Many films are shown in their original language version (with Italian sub-titles).
The Odeon has long been a preferred meeting point for members of Florentine cultural and artistic life. Guests such as Louis Armstrong and Ella Fitzgerald visited the theatre, as have directors and actors of Italian neorealist cinema, as well as contemporary artists such as Isabelle Adjani, Angelica Houston, Bernando Bertolucci, Kenneth Branagh, Roberto Benigni, Nanni Moretti and Paolo Sorrentino.
The prestigious and elegant spaces of the Cinema Odeon Theater include a large open room, with a stage holding the movie screen, and has a total capacity of 594 seats, divided into the large stall (with 334 seats) and stylish balcony (seats 260).
Fortunately for us, the Odeon still maintains the harmony and beauty of its original art deco/nouveau style; its tapestries, statues, and colored glass skylight are admired by its many visitors.
The original furnishings of the grand room were red velvet; the furnishings were renewed in 1987 and replaced with yellow gold velvet. Theoriginal wooden chairs remain in the balconies.
On Via dei Sassetti a plaque reads: "Built in the MCMXXII on behal of S.A. Toscano Immobiliare Sindacato - Restored in the MCMXXXVIII". The Odeon Cinema is a vibrant cultural centre, often hosting cinema festivals. One of the leading is “50 Giorni di Cinema Internazionale”, which takes place in winter, showcasing movies and directors from diverse cultures. In addition to the entertainment venues and offices of the German Management, the building houses the Departmental Department of Tobacco Growth and the Department of Economic Development of the City of Florence, and in the basement a historic disco, the Yab.
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