Back to Rome for a hot minute: Triumphs and Laments

William Kentridge: Triumphs and Laments, Rome

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Last month I had the great pleasure of staying in Rome for a few weeks.  I’ve lived in Rome in years past and, like so many others, have a great affection for the Eternal City.  The city has had its ups and downs, but still has great capacity to beguile.

As is well-known, Rome is suffering under mammoth financial and organizational problems; what is less well known but, quite interesting and inspiring, is how some non-profit organizations have stepped in with armies of volunteers to make a difference in the city.

One instantly noticed area of neglect has always been the banks of the Tiber. While for decades city officials have promised to clean up the river’s banks, little to nothing has been done over the years.  That’s until some volunteers stepped in.

 

As a result of their work, one of the best new things in Rome is the street art, or I guess I should say the river art, along sections of the Tiber: Kentridge’s Triumphs and Laments. Great stretches of the riverfront walkways that abut the high travertine embankments built after disastrous flooding in 1870 have been covered with images from local–and thereby world–history.

 

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As Rome’s largest contemporary art work, it was unveiled last year with great festivities. Launched by a local non-profit organization, the Tevereterno Onlus, the mission of Tevereterno is to reactivate the Tiber in the heart of Rome. It’s a multidisciplinary cultural organization, dedicated to the site-specific contemporary art on Rome’s urban riverfront, called Piazza Tevere. Overcoming years of administrative opposition and bureaucratic hurdles, the Italian culture minister and others finally gave the green light to the project.

 

Along a 500-yard stretch of the river’s embankment now appear an incongruous procession of historical characters depicting a series of “Triumphs and Laments,” culled from Rome’s history.

The figures were created using gigantic stencils and power-washing to erase layers of smog, soot and biological patina on the embankment — a process sometimes known as reverse graffiti — to produce beauty from grime.

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The ancient statesman Cicero, St. Peter and the she-wolf who nurtured Romulus and Remus are among the dozens of figures, drawn from iconic sculptures, photographs and monuments, along with Bernini’s statue of St. Teresa in ecstasy.

There are celebrities: Anita Ekberg and Marcello Mastroianni from “Dolce Vita” days. And then there are the unknown and anonymous: three women who are the nameless widows of countless migrants who have drowned trying to cross the Mediterranean into Italy.

The artist, William Kentridge, discussed his work: “There’s no specific narrative, except that everyone’s triumphs and glories is someone else’s laments and shamefulness.”

 

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You can read about Kentridge, a South African political artist, here:  http://nymag.com/arts/art/profiles/15946/

You can view the project fully here: https://vimeo.com/204544946

And you can read more about it here: https://www.nytimes.com/2016/04/27/world/europe/tiber-river-rome-cleanup.html?action=click&contentCollection=Europe&module=RelatedCoverage&region=EndOfArticle&pgtype=article

A short history of Tuscany.

Like most parcels of European territory, what we now know as Tuscany has gone through endless slicings and dicings, expansions and contractions, changes of name and possession.

Much of it was, of course, home to the Etruscans. Their realm, Etruria, after being annexed by Rome, came to be called Tuscia, which in the sixth century was made a duchy by the conquering Lombards, with Lucca as its capital.

This entity metamorphosed, under the Franks, into the Margravate of Tuscany, which in the eleventh century produced the first Tuscan of real historical stature: Matilda of Tuscany, one of the shrewder military leaders of the Middle Ages and among the period’s most formidable women.

After Matilda’s death in 1115, there ensued a long struggle between popes and Holy Roman emperors for control of the margravate, and the lack of firm external rule allowed for the rise of the great city-states, above all Florence. For more than three hundred years there was no Tuscany per se.

Florence, though, had been gradually extending its dominion over one comune after another, and in 1569 the House of Medici capped this consolidation by inducing Pius V to create the Grand Duchy of Tuscany, with Cosimo I as its first ruler. Except for a brief Napoleonic hiatus, the grand duchy was to survive right up to 1859, when it was absorbed into the United Provinces of Central Italy, which in turn was folded into the new Kingdom of Italy.

Downing, Ben (2013-06-18). Queen Bee of Tuscany: The Redoubtable Janet Ross (pp. 79-80). Farrar, Straus and Giroux. Kindle Edition.

The first day of summer.

I went to Settignano to visit a hard to see garden.  It is so hard to see that I didn’t see it.  I couldn’t find the gate!  You can’t win them all!  I’ll make another reservation for another day, but it won’t be in the heat of this summer!

But, apart from the problem above, I’d describe the day as blue, green and red hot.  Italy is in a heat wave and its only going to get hotter the next few days.  It was too hot to be walking in the hills outside of Florence.  But, I did it anyway

 

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Istituto Torrigiani

fausta68's avatarLA PAGINA DI NONNATUTTUA

Sono quasi due mesi che non metto le mani sulla tastiera, abbandonando per un po’ questo blog.

Precisamente dal 25 aprile, un giorno che d’ora in avanti festeggerò non per l’avvenimento storico ma per la mia personale storia.

Già, perché proprio il 25 aprile mi è stata regalata la seconda possibilità di vivere: da alcuni giorni non mi sentivo troppo bene ma davo la colpa alla grande stanchezza, invece quella mattina proprio non ne volevo sapere di svegliarmi nonostante mio marito mi chiamasse ripetutamente. La cosa non era normale per cui ha chiamato la figliola. Arrivata ha tentato di prendermi la pressione ma non era possibile. Caricata di corsa in macchina arrivo all’ospedale. Pressione 42 di massima…10 battiti. Di corsa in terapia intensiva: i reni erano partiti. E anche il cuore faticava tanto a battere.

Non vi sto a raccontare tutta la trafila, ricordo solo di aver sentito chiaramente il…

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