Paris, during the strikes, January 2020

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This was the scene that greeted me on my arrival in Paris on Jan. 9, 2019.  The protest was civil, and as I noticed during the subsequent week, usually only got going during the late afternoon.  Very civilized, I thought.

 

Such a discouraging sight, all the metro gates closed.

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It took a lot of this stuff to make it through the strikes, and I mean as a tourist, not a striker!

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Well, some more than others!

 

 

And then suddenely, out of no where, with no advance notice, I found an open subway station.

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You better believe I jumped on this train…I didn’t even really care where it was going to!

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I think the graffiti on the monument in the Place de la République tells the strikers point-of-view: retraité de macron, or, in English, Retire Macron.

Villa Demidoff and Giambologna’s Il Gigante

As I sit in Denver on a very cold February morning, my mind wanders back to Tuscany and warm weather.  I’m almost always behind in my posts and so I take this moment to post about Villa Demidoff.

In 1568, Francesco I de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, purchased a great estate in the hills outside of Florence and commissioned the famous architect, Buontalenti, to build a splendid villa as a residence for Bianca Cappello.  Bianca was the Grand Duke’s Venetian mistress.  The villa was built between 1569 and 1581, set inside a forest of fir trees.

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While very little of Buontalenti’s villa survives, at least we still have this fabulous and very large statue of Il Gigante, set facing a pond filled with water lilies.

The lilies are absolutely gorgeous in late August. I had never seen anything as magnificent as the first time I saw this lake of waterlilies in bloom!  And, the statue ain’t bad either.

 

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OK, ripping my eyes away from the pink flowers, I walked around towards the back of the statue:

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Giambologna was the creator of this amazing sculpture:

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Il Gigante, also known as “the Colossus of the Apennines,” is an astounding work of art. Giambologna designed the lower part as a hexagon-shaped cave from which one can access, through a ladder, to the compartment in the upper part of the body and into the head. The cavity is filled with light that enters from the eye holes in the head.

The exterior of the statue is covered with sponges and limestone pieces, over which water pours into the pool below.

We know that originally, behind the statue, there was the large labyrinth made from laurel bushes. At the front of the giant was a large lawn, adorned with 26 ancient sculptures at the sides.

Later, many of the antique statues were transferred to the Boboli Gardens, and the park became a hunting reserve. As a part of the Pratolino estate, it was abandoned until 1819, when the Grand Duke Ferdinando III of Lorena changed the splendid Italian garden in the English garden, by the Bohemian engineer Joseph Fritsch. The part was increased from 20 to 78 hectares.

 

The park, which had been owned by Leopoldo II since 1837, was sold upon his death to Paul Demidoff, who redeveloped the property. Demidoff’s last descendant bequeathed the property to Florence’s provincial authorities.

And I feel better already.  I can feel my cold, clenched muscles relax under the spell of the Tuscan sunshine. Soon I will be there again.

The miracle of flight

One minute you’re over the Appenine mountains in Tuscany…

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And the next minute (well, 12 hours later, counting connections) you are over the western USA. Where it’s winter. And it’s cold. And dry.

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And kind of starkly beautiful.

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Check out that weird shape in the earth below, covered with snow.  Alien symbols for UFOs?  When I was 13, I would have thought so.

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To me, the patterns and colors are beautiful.

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The crazy American foods I miss

I’m in the US for a brief visit. High on my list of things to do while here is to hit up the supermarket for some must-have staples I can’t find in Italy.

But, when I returned from the store, I had to laugh at my group of foods.  Only the brown sugar and the dried pintos (for the Mexican food I miss so much) will go back to Europe with me.  The other things will be gobbled up during my American visit.  Funny, right?  I adore the old-fashioned sour cream/onion soup mix dip from my childhood.  That on a great potato chip has got to be one of life’s greatest pleasures, at least to me!

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I really like deviled ham (all these childhood flavors), but most of all I crave Welch’s grape juice.  It is a unique flavor in all of the world.  Trust me, I have sampled every grape juice I can find in Europe and none of them come close the the unique Welch’s juice.

Italians, in fact, think it is a great waste of the grape to make anything so simple as a juice when, with a little time and know-how, they can turn it into the miracle of wine!

There are some other things I will take back to Florence with me: dry yeast, vanilla extracts, otc meds like ibuprofen which is very expensive in Italy.  You can buy it in packages of 10s or 20s.  You get it only at a pharmacy and it isn’t otc.  You have to request it of the pharmacist.

I was amused to discover in London that while you can purchase meds like ibuprofen in the same way as we do in the US–that is, you can find it on a shelf in a bottle of 100 tablets or so–there is a limit as to how much you can purchase at one time.  The limit at the Boots Pharmacy I was in was 1 bottle of 100 tablets per visit.  Of course, with a little planning, you can get around that, but what a pain in the neck to stock up on a vacation.

All for now, I need to go drink some juice and have some chips and dip!

Hector Guimard and Art Nouveau at the Musee d’Orsay, Paris

You may know the work of Hector Guimard if you are familiar with his iconic Paris Metro signs and stations.

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What you may not know is that the Musee d’Orsay has a fabulous collection of his furniture.  The collection also includes outstanding furniture by other Art Nouveau artists.

Here is just a glimpse of some of the wonders I saw:

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