Musée National Eugène-Delacroix, Paris
For a long time I have wanted to visit this small, but excellent museum. Last week I got my chance. I enjoyed it a lot and the lovely hidden garden was a delight to discover! This left bank artist home is well worth a visit.
Deco Off, Paris; January 2020
When the outdoors are dressed up like a living room, it’s a sure sign something fun is up:
For more, see: https://www.architonic.com/en/fair-edition/pdo-paris-deco-off-pdo-paris-deco-off-2020/20076520
Here and there in Paris, January 2020
It’s a fine thing to view Paris in the winter. I love the views of the architecture through the bare tree branches.
Suddenly, the Flatiron building in New York doesn’t seem to be so unique!
I believe that this church is the first time I have seen a Biblical story played out in a sculptural neoclassical architectural pediment. It strikes me as funny.
Streets still decorated for Christmas. That’s a bonus!
Chinese New Year is also on view:
Oh, hello, you!
Above:
Mon intention du jour me féliciter, bravo, bravo, bravo, bravo.
My intention of the day congratulate myself. Bravo, bravo, bravo, bravo.
Below:
Mon intention du jour faire un truc plus grand que moi.
My intention of the day to do something bigger than me.
The Pierre below is not the one I grew up with!
The light on my first morning in Paris was stunning. So happy to be here!
Many churches still had their creche scenes on display.
The font below is very different from the marble fonts I see in all the churches in Italy.
The famous Dehillerin store:
And every neighborhood has a great floral shop:
And this landmark:
Every neighborhood also has its own boulangerie. Some have incredible architectural design:
La galette des rois est une galette traditionnellement élaborée et consommée dans une majeure partie de la France, au Québec, en Acadie, en Suisse, au Luxembourg, en Belgique et au Liban à l’occasion de l’Épiphanie, fête chrétienne qui célèbre la visite des rois mages à l’enfant Jésus, célébrée le 6 janvier de chaque année.
Sacré-Cœur Basilica, Paris
The best way I know to spend a Saturday afternoon on a spectacular sunny winter afternoon in Paris is to climb to the top of hill to visit the beautiful Sacré-Cœur Basilica and look out at the panoramic view of Paris. It’s a hike, but it’s well worth it!
Look at that sky!
A talented musician serenades the crowd:
The interior:
This church has figured out how to hold mass and let visitors circulate around the church at the same time. It feels right.
Although it isn’t obvious in my pictures, the statues of Mary and the other one of Jesus are both in silver. They remind me of the statue I saw in the Musee d-Orsay.
Even though it was well past Christmas and Epiphany, the creche scene was still on display. Very modern and simple rendition. I guess I’m very accustomed to the more elaborate Italian mode!
The mosaics are splendid. The Holy Trinity in one shot here:
Wait a second, for a minute I thought I was in the Vatican!
This and that in Paris, January 2020; the Folies Bergère
The French start training early for the enjoyment of the outdoor cafe life:
Many of the city’s grocery stores currently have these enticing cases of Little Moons Japanese mochi at the front. I never did try any. It is January, after all. Plus, my hands are almost always full. But, I am intrigued, see below the pix:
From the Little Moon website: https://www.littlemoons.co.uk
Brother and sister, Howard & Vivien Wong, launched Little Moons in 2010 on a mission to bring Japanese mochi with a delicious, modern twist to the masses.
Having grown up eating traditional mochi in their parent’s bakery they knew the potential these little balls had to deliver a moment of total happiness to whoever ate them.
It took them two years to master the mochi making process and perfect the ice cream recipes, working with top chefs and using quality ingredients to create the perfect flavour combinations.
With a Little Moons now eaten every second we felt the time was right to introduce our next bite sized adventure and so in 2019 we launched our Cookie Dough Ice Cream Bites.
Big Flavours, Little Moons.
What is mochi?
Mochi is a rice flour dough that has been steamed and pounded to give it its distinctive soft and chewy texture. We wrap a thin layer of mochi around our ice cream balls to make our Little Moons mochis.
It is so unique that in Asia the distinctive glutinous texture of mochi has its own name and is known as the Q texture.
Ok, back to Paris!
I swoon over the architecture:
The famous Folies Bergère. Art Deco all the way home.
Even the animals were dressed for winter:
You cannot help loving these Metro entrance markers by Hector Guimard, even if most of the (darn) stations were closed during my visit (for the longest strike in French history):
A shop dedicated to cat designs?
The classic French Galette Des Rois is for sale in almost every pâtisserie.
I love the aged patina on this gorgeous door below.
I never made it into the Louvre on this trip (a long story, told here), even though I had tickets for a special exhibition, but I did get to see the Louvre’s ultra modern subway station on the automated Metro Line #1:
Much more to come, probably for another month!
Toulouse-Lautrec at the Grand Palais, January 2020
I first fell in love with the graphic works of Toulouse-Lautrec in college. Posters of his magnificent advertisements covered my dormitory room walls. I still love his work.
I also love the Grand Palais. I mean, just look at it! Construction of the building began in 1897 following the demolition of the Palais de l’Industrie as part of the preparation works for the Universal Exposition of 1900, which also included the creation of the adjacent Petit Palais and Pont Alexandre III. It has been listed since 2000 as a historique monument by the French Ministry of Culture.
Although the Palais appears to be in the style of Beaux-Arts architecture as taught by the École des Beaux-Arts of Paris, and the building reflects the movement’s taste for ornate decoration on its stone facades, its structure, in fact, is made of iron, light steel framing, and reinforced concrete. These were very innovative techniques and materials at the time, and included the glass vault.
A stained glass design by the artist. I had no idea he had worked in this medium.
The design for the glass:
Yes, here is the ad for the magazine La revue blanche! This design has always been a favorite!
The exhibition was excellent. I am becoming a very lazy art historian. I’m sorry to say that I don’t enjoy muscling my way through exhibitions anymore. I am spoiled because, once upon a time, I could view these shows privately. It’s not nice to be just another visitor. Boo hoo.
Still, the show was magnificent and I’m glad I saw it!
And, because so much of Lautrec’s work was devoted to the entertainments of Montmartre, the curators included this great film clip:
The Musee d’Orsay, Paris
Head’s up! This will be a long post. Lots of pictures. The Musee d’Orsay is an incredible museum. Much smaller than the Louvre, it is still a huge collection. Many days are needed to truly see everything. But, I gave it the old college try again in one day recently.
The views out the windows are pretty spectacular.
I am fascinated by how my tastes change over time. When I visit a museum these days, new things I might never have noticed now take center stage for me. Below are pictures of the works that caught my eye this time.
Of course I always love white marble neoclassical sculpture from the 19th century. It’s the stuff I cut my art history teeth with. But this was a new take: I have never seen a neoclassical (or any other period) sculpture that is adorned with actual earrings!
I loved this Annunciation, especially since I see Quattrocento versions in Florence almost daily. I love the French term for the title: La salutation Angelique. Everything sounds better in French.
I can’t remember seeing costumes on display in art museums in the past. I was so happy to see these from the early 20th century. Such a delight!
A French costume version of an American Indian:
I found this sculpture by Dubois very interesting. It feels Quattrocentoesque to me, which I like, but the main thing I like about it is the silvery finish.
Hello Whistler! How’s your mom? Nice to see a fellow American here!
Home again, home again, jiggity jig! From Paris to Florence, Jan. 19, 2020
Flying over the Alps:
‘
Over Tuscany, a welcome sight:
Home, sweet Italy!
Canal Saint Martin, Paris and Parisian firefighters
Constructed under orders from Napoleon to bring fresh potable water into the French capitol, the canal still functions today. It also provides a breath of fresh green space and a water view into the city.
But, it also is the training space for the Parisian firefighters, as you can see in the pictures below. Brrr….that water has to be cold in Janvier!
Canal Saint-Martin
The tree-lined Canal Saint-Martin is the focal point
of one of the most romantic and hip areas of Paris.
Watch boats travel along the canal while lovers and
friends take in the atmosphere from the banks or the
bridges. Evenings see hoards fill the embankments to
drink wine and enjoy good company. The colder days
lead people to hipster bars, cozy restaurants, and
concert spaces. Those who are more adventurous may
explore hidden gems down nearby streets, from local
bars to futuristic architecture. With its enriching
mix of people of all ages and backgrounds, this
neighborhood has a dynamic, inspiring vibe.
get back, lauretta! 
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