Climbing the (Medieval) walls in Florence

Last Saturday, October 27, 2018, I had the chance to join some urban trekkers and climb the Medieval walls in the Oltrarno.  We had as our goal, the Porta Romana, one of the remaining Medieval gates to the city.  When people wanted to go to Rome from Florence centuries ago, they left Firenze by this gate.

It must have been a welcoming site when returning to fair Firenze.  La Porta Romana told you you were home.

IMG_2690

The picture above shows the Porta Romana from outside the walls, looking into the city.  Our goal was to climb into the gate and see the room inside the very top of this picture.

First things first: we climbed up a metal stairway about 500 yards away from the gate and walked along the top of the walls.

 

IMG_2699

IMG_2701IMG_2702IMG_2703

IMG_2705IMG_2706IMG_2707IMG_2708

IMG_2710IMG_2711IMG_2712IMG_2713IMG_2714

IMG_2715IMG_2717IMG_2718IMG_2738IMG_2739IMG_2740IMG_2741IMG_2742IMG_2743IMG_2744IMG_2745

IMG_2748IMG_2752IMG_2753

Florence in the 1930s

38451352_281168199358008_6363169605812224000_n-2

Piazza del Duomo e via Martelli negli anni 30, il tram 8 che andava a Campo di Marte. Piazza del Duomo and via Martelli in the 1930s.  The tram #8 was going to Campo di Marte.

39145043_291154088359419_1043258143292784640_n

Festa dell’Uva, grande corteo da via Cavour nel 1938. Grape festival, great procession on Via Cavour in 1938.

39441563_294865881321573_5580196238822735872_n
Le pecore fiorentine e aldilà d’Arno la Biblioteca Nazionale inaugurata nel 1935. Bella immagine di un mondo scomparso.
Florentine sheep with the facade of the National Library in background.  The library was opened in 1935.  A beautiful image of a lost world.

A new angle on an old Duomo

Strolling along the Lungarno in the Oltrarno today, I noticed Giotto’s campanile and Brunelleschi’s dome from a completely new angle.  The clouds and unsettled sky-scape only added to the drama (apparently a cold front is making its way into Tuscany this weekend, putting an end to our beautiful Indian summer.  It was 70 degrees today and many Italians were dressed in hats, scarves, and puffy coats to chase away the chills.  I was in short sleeves and was still too warm :-)).

IMG_2793IMG_2794IMG_2792IMG_2795

Farmacia di San Marco

Fate is truly fickle.

You take 2 historic pharmacies, founded in Florence long, long ago. I’m speaking of the le farmacie di San Marco and di Santa Maria Novella. Santa Maria is still going strong, while the farmacia di San Marco shuttered its doors in 1995.  It obviously had a good run!

I’ll be discussing the components of the facade below, but first please notice the little niche with a shelf above the lunette over the door.  There was once a small marble statue, depicting the lion of San Marco, placed there.

220px-Farmacia_di_San_Marco

I’d never heard anything about the San Marco pharmacy, although I wasn’t surprised to learn the there once was a farmacia attached to this church complex.  It was customary for conventi (in Italian, a convent denotes what in English we would call a monastery) to have a farmacia, selling medicinal products that the monks created.

But, many times a week I ride or walk by the old entrance to the pharmacy of San Marco on Via Cavour in Florence.  The pharmacy is now defunct, but it is lovely that the authorities who closed the shop in 1995 left the old, 19th-century facade.  It speaks volumes and is a charming relic of days gone by.

IMG_1993

The San Marco pharmacy was established in 1450 by the Dominican friars, along with its twin, the still operating Farmacia di Santa Maria Novella. Cosimo de’ Medici had a particular interest in San Marco and there is little doubt that his patronage helped the church in all of its endeavors.

IMG_1994

The Dominicans were known to be people with considerable culture. The  medicinal preparations they created inspired confidence.

What were the medicines they had on offer? We know they sold at least the following:

  • The Alchermes, much appreciated by Lorenzo the Magnificent
  • Anti-hysteria water, for nervous ladies
  • Elixirs for the stomach
  • Rose water

IMG_1995

We know that the monks drew from long-held botanical remedies and experimented with others.  They made their medicines by dissolving the helpful plant material (whether from the flower, the leaves, the roots, or the stems) in alcohol.  Their various products could take the forms of a tincture, a solution, a suspension, an infusion, a potion, elixir, extract, essence, quintessence and or a concentrate.

IMG_1997

IMG_1997

My favorite product listed on the engraved stone menus is “Coca.”  This would indicate coca cola, which was invented as a medicinal elixir by a pharmacist in Georgia, USA, in the 1880s.  So, that gives us a date for the facade of the old pharmacy.  Would that we could see the earlier versions, now long lost.

I just love the concept of an American elixir on sale in the Florentine pharmacy.

 

IMG_1998

 

IMG_1999

 

IMG_2001

 

If you can, like I can, picture how this pharmacy must have seemed when these engraved stone tablets were new, then let your mind wander back in time.

The following info on the farmacia comes from: http://socialdesignzine.aiap.it/topografie/9172

The Ancient Pharmacy of San Marco was established by friar Antonino, with the generous support of Cosimo de ‘Medici, called il Vecchio, during the reconstruction of the San Marco complex in 1435. From 1450 the pharmacy, whose production was initially reserved for use inside the convent (monastery), was open to the public. The stone lintel of the ancient entrance, is one of the oldest examples of commercial signage with the logo “Fonderia: e: S. Marco pharmacy”, with a minimalist setting in a beautiful pre-humanistic character characterized by broken bar of A.

Among the most famous productions of the pharmacy was an alchermes, particularly appreciated by Lorenzo the Magnificent, and antihysteric water. In 1498 the stomatologic elixir, the Dominican liqueur, the herbal tea, elastin and Scots pine syrup were created.
Then rose water from 1700, about which the Dominicans wrote: <<Thanks to the peculiarity of the singular Rose of Bulgaria, from which it is directly distilled, rose water is miraculous to delay the sad prodromes of old age: wrinkles. Warmed up in a bain-marie, it will restore tiredness and vivacity to your eyes ».

Later, absinthe and the “Bolivian” coca were included among the specialties of the pharmacy. (If this writer is correct, then my assumption about Coca Cola is incorrect.)  The pharmacy was closed in 1995.

The series of gray marble signs of the mid-19th century that surround the entrances give account of the many products of the pharmacy with a composition that incorporates a real typographic sample with graceful, linear, Tuscan, italics and ornate characters.