Graffiti

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Small signs warning graffiti creators not to paint anything appear on many exterior walls in Florence.  Typically, the creators seem to obey the signs.  But, right on a major Lungarno street (street along the Arno river), someone could not help themselves and painted–in a beautiful graphic style, I might add–words that both support immigrants and denounces Fascism.

Immigration is a huge issue in Italy.  A week or so ago an immigrant was shot dead on the street that I walk on at least weekly and sometimes several times a week.  I happened to be walking down this street shortly after the murder.  Carabinieri and police were everywhere.  I didn’t find out until later that a man in his 60s was planning to commit suicide, but lacked the nerve, so he walked outside and shot the first person he saw.  At least that’s what I read.

There was a march last Sunday in support of immigrants.  It is such a sad story, all these displaced people from the middle east and northern Africa, whose lives are ripped apart by endless civil wars.

Despite the fact that this graffiti is forbidden, I can’t help but admire the creator who felt compelled to state his/her support for the downtrodden.  And, in such a beautiful style.

 

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See Naples and die

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“See Naples and die” are the famous words first spoken by Johann Wolfgang von Goethe in his Italian Journey (1786–88).

In this breath-taking episode of the PBS show, Dream of Italy, you will make pizza in Naples, hear why Naples coffee is the best in the world (hint: the expert thinks it has to do with the water and air of Naples), see the famous Neapolitan hand-made creche figures, and have a up close look at the magnificently dangerous Mt. Vesuvius.  You’ll learn about American grape stock providing Europe with a unblemished basis for wine production and how to make limoncello from the glorious limone that grow in this blessed region.

Divertiti!

 

Capodanno a Firenze

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Last night there were fireworks in Florence.  Something was definitely up!

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And that’s because today, March 25, is the date marking the beginning of the new year according to Florentine tradition. The city commemorates the occasion with a major parade which begins at the Palazzo Vecchio and makes a pilgrimage to the Santissima Annunziata. That church is important because of it houses a medieval fresco of  the Annunciation, which is believed (by some people at least!) to have been partially painted by angels.

The fresco and the church of Santissima Annunziata (the Most Holy Annunciation) has always been the centerpiece of the Florence’s New Year festivities in late March. The fresco can still be viewed on the inner wall to the left of the entrance.

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The story goes that the artist commissioned to paint the Annunciation fell asleep after completing all but the face of the Virgin Mary. Upon his awakening, he found a completed, beautiful blonde Madonna – angelic masters had finished the fresco for him.

From 1250 to 1750, the people of Florence gathered in the church of SS Annunziata to welcome the arrival of spring and to officially celebrate the Annunciation, or the moment   when the Angel Gabriel told Mary that she would be the mother of Christ. March 25 of course is exactly 9 months before Christmas, when the Christ child was born.

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In order to celebrate the event, the municipality of Firenze organizes a parade with traditional costumes, music and flag-wavers. The historical procession (called the corteo storico) of the Florentine Republic,  starts around 2:45 pm at the palace of the Palagio di Parte Guelfa, heading toward the Basilica SS. Annunziata.

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Florentines were so devoted to the Madonna that until 1750, they refused to accept the Gregorian calendar year that begins on January 1. This devotion remains a part of the culture and was celebrated again today.