Signed, sealed, delivered: a signed Michelazzi villino on my street

I love walking the streets of Paris, where you often find the names of a building’s architect inscribed on the facade. I don’t see that often in Italy, but, the other day, while traversing the city during the Orange Zone lockdown for Covid (ugh), I almost fell over when I looked up and saw Michelazzi’s name inscribed on a building very near my home in Florence. I mean, like I walk under this inscription pretty much every day, but never saw it until now? How can that be.

It was actually the snake on the drainage pipe that caught my eye. I love the iron, brass and bronze architectural accoutrements on buildings here, as a quick perusal of my blog in the past few months makes that abundantly clear. I mean, how wonderful, to think of adding a snake to this pipe! I looked up to take the snake in and there, to my surprise, was the architect’s inscription.

This Michelazzi villino or townhouse is scrunched in between two others of different eras, both more conservative in style.

As you can see, inscribed above the door way is the Roman numeral for 1915. So, the palazzo at number 72 on Via XX Settembre, Firenze, was designed by Michelazzi and completed in 1915. Now I want to know more.

Take note of the lovely details, of a pine cone motif in ironwork on the windows, and the swirl and diamond details in the terra cotta inlays. How delightful!

So who was Michelazzi? The name seemed familiar and I had to find out more.

Giovanni Michelazzi (1879-1920), was born in Rome, lived in Lucca and then Florence, where he received his diploma in architecture in 1901. It turns out he was one of the most important exponents of the Art Nouveau, which in Italy is known as the Liberty style, in Tuscany. I knew I had seen that name somewhere else.

He was the author of this Art Nouveau masterpiece, seen below, in the heart of historic Florence.

From Wikipedia, both the Italian and English versions, with some edits by me:

Michelazzi is the architect who created all the most important Art Nouveau architectural works in Florence. Yet memory of his work was almost completely lost when that style went out of fashion and some of his buildings were demolished in the 1950s and 60s. Only in the last fifty years has his story been resuscitated. Contemporary architectural critics ascribe an important place for him in the history of Italian 20th century architecture.

1911 is perhaps the golden year for Michelazzi, with the realization of his masterpiece, Casa-Galleria Vichi, with its tall, narrow façade.

According to the Wikipedia entry, after about 1912, Michelazzi changed direction in his art. His buildings from this point forward seem more Neo-Renaissance and less Art Nouveau. However, the building on my street, #72, falls in line with his Art Nouveau style.

The author of the Wikipedia article on Michelazzi stated that this change in direction is evident in Michelazzi’s Villino Baroncelli on Via Giovanni Dupre #72 in Florence. I hadn’t seen that building until yesterday, when I set off to find it. Here it is! Unfortunately, it seems to be abandoned.

There are other Michelazzi buildings in Florence that I hope to locate soon. Until then, arrividerci!

The quintessential Italian scene

In my mind’s eye, throughout my lifetime, I’ve seen images like the one below. A priest (or higher rank, sorry, I’m not Catholic and don’t know), walking through a town or village, on his way from his church? to see a parishioner? Who knows these details?!

But, the God’s honest truth is that in 4 1/2 years I’ve been living in Italy this time, and in all my visits to the country before that, I have never witnessed this scene before today. Where are all the church staff anyway? I’ve seen, over the years, a handful of Franciscan monks, but only a handful. I’ve seen 10 fold nuns, many of them Asian or African, over the years. It always entertains me when I see a nun walking down the street looking at her cellphone. I always think, does she have a direct line to the Almighty?

So, when I saw this man walking in the Borgo of Ognissanti in Firenze, I had to whip out my phone and capture his image. Who knows when I’ll see something like this again.

In the meantime, it satisfies one of my fantasies of life in Italy.

Counting my everyday beauty blessings

There are rumors afloat that Tuscany is going into lockdown again on Monday, March 21. OMG, I hope not.

I’ve been whinging about being in the Orange Zone for weeks; haven’t been able to leave the Florence city limits. I may soon not be able to leave my house without an authorization form and a very good reason. No more walks across Florence for my pleasure, no more Cascine forays. When will this end? Summertime, I imagine.

So, let’s enjoy what I saw yesterday! Because springtime beauty is all around me.

And, up next, a little white magnolia action in the beauty department:

It occurred to me yesterday on my walk that I take the view below for granted. There was a time in my life when the just the idea of cypress trees and umbrella pines, never mind a bright blue sky, filled me with longing for Italy. And now, here I am, able to enjoy it daily. Count your blessings!

And, how’s this view below? A short walk from my house, I am in the hills below Fiesole, enjoying an unchanged for centuries vista of classic Tuscan countryside.

And lastly, the wisteria vine near my house is getting closer everyday to putting on its sublime lilac-colored show. Here is how the racemes are shaping up in March.

I always feel better after a long walk. Especially through all of this everyday beauty in Tuscany.

Frustration in Florence

I might have mentioned this before, but I am frustrated with the Covid pandemic. Who isn’t? In Italy we are still more or less locked down. It isn’t the red zone lock down, during which we can’t leave our homes without a good reason and a document.

But we are in the next zone, the orange zone. We can go out, but we can’t leave town. Fines are heavy for any one who does, and they are strict.

I’ve been criss-crossing Florence for months now. I feel like I know almost every nook and cranny.

The garden behind the Archaeological Museum frustrates me in particular this week. Look at this early beautiful springtime tableau! These are the only daffodils and other spring-blooming bulbs I’ve seen flowering in Florence and they, along with the pink and the white magnolia trees, are behind bars. Florence doesn’t have (m)any gardens planted with spring bulbs as you would see in the UK or the USA.

My pictures look fulsome, but they were taken by holding my phone between the bars. Imagine that!

Springtime behind bars! Ugh! I am so frustrated!

Another Tabernacle, Via dei Serragli, Florence

Walking along the very long Via dei Serragli for the umpteenth time, I spotted a tabernacle overhead that I’d not seen before. How often do I say that? About every day.

But what caught my eye to begin with was the simple white marble square inserted in a modestly decorative panel, incised with the date of 1839. That stopped me in my tracks and I looked up.

Keep your eyes open! You will see something new every time!