Toulouse-Lautrec at the Grand Palais, January 2020

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I first fell in love with the graphic works of Toulouse-Lautrec in college.  Posters of his magnificent advertisements covered my dormitory room walls.  I still love his work.

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I also love the Grand Palais. I mean, just look at it! Construction of the building began in 1897 following the demolition of the Palais de l’Industrie  as part of the preparation works for the Universal Exposition of 1900, which also included the creation of the adjacent Petit Palais and Pont Alexandre III. It has been listed since 2000 as a historique monument by the French Ministry of Culture.

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Although the Palais appears to be in the style of Beaux-Arts architecture as taught by the École des Beaux-Arts of Paris, and the building reflects the movement’s taste for ornate decoration on its stone facades, its structure, in fact, is made of iron, light steel framing, and reinforced concrete. These were very innovative techniques and materials at the time, and included the glass vault.

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A stained glass design by the artist. I had no idea he had worked in this medium.

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The design for the glass:

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Yes, here is the ad for the magazine La revue blanche!  This design has always been a favorite!

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The exhibition was excellent.  I am becoming a very lazy art historian. I’m sorry to say that I don’t enjoy muscling my way through exhibitions anymore.  I am spoiled because, once upon a time, I could view these shows privately.  It’s not nice to be just another visitor.  Boo hoo.

Still, the show was magnificent and I’m glad I saw it!

And, because so much of Lautrec’s work was devoted to the entertainments of Montmartre, the curators included this great film clip:

The Musee d’Orsay, Paris

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Head’s up!  This will be a long post.  Lots of pictures.  The Musee d’Orsay is an incredible museum.  Much smaller than the Louvre, it is still a huge collection.  Many days are needed to truly see everything.  But, I gave it the old college try again in one day recently.

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The views out the windows are pretty spectacular.

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I am fascinated by how my tastes change over time.  When I visit a museum these days, new things I might never have noticed now take center stage for me.  Below are pictures of the works that caught my eye this time.

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Of course I always love white marble neoclassical sculpture from the 19th century.  It’s the stuff I cut my art history teeth with.   But this was a new take:  I have never seen a neoclassical (or any other period) sculpture that is adorned with actual earrings!

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I loved this Annunciation, especially since I see Quattrocento versions in Florence almost daily.  I love the French term for the title: La salutation Angelique.  Everything sounds better in French.

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I can’t remember seeing costumes on display in art museums in the past.  I was so happy to see these from the early 20th century.  Such a delight!

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A French costume version of an American Indian:

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I found this sculpture by Dubois very interesting.  It feels Quattrocentoesque to me, which I like, but the main thing I like about it is the silvery finish.

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Hello Whistler! How’s your mom?  Nice to see a fellow American here!

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Canal Saint Martin, Paris and Parisian firefighters

Constructed under orders from Napoleon to bring fresh potable water into the French capitol, the canal still functions today.  It also provides a breath of fresh green space and a water view into the city.

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But, it also is the training space for the Parisian firefighters, as you can see in the pictures below.  Brrr….that water has to be cold in Janvier!

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Canal Saint-Martin
The tree-lined Canal Saint-Martin is the focal point
of one of the most romantic and hip areas of Paris.
Watch boats travel along the canal while lovers and
friends take in the atmosphere from the banks or the
bridges. Evenings see hoards fill the embankments to
drink wine and enjoy good company. The colder days
lead people to hipster bars, cozy restaurants, and
concert spaces. Those who are more adventurous may
explore hidden gems down nearby streets, from local
bars to futuristic architecture. With its enriching
mix of people of all ages and backgrounds, this
neighborhood has a dynamic, inspiring vibe.

Le déjeuner: les Deux Magots

What do you do on your birthday? I was lucky enough to be in Paris for my birthday this year and we had tickets to see the Leonardo exhibition at the Louvre, marking the 500th anniversary of his death.  But, when I arrived at the Louvre, the museum workers are on strike and the museum is closed.  What would you do then?

Well, we decided to go to lunch at Les Deux Magots.  It was a fun choice, with great food. It’s Paris!

I didn’t feel a bit sorry for myself!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Au revoir, beautiful Paris!

Paris, you never disappoint! Even with your strikes–which were a pain in my neck, but especially my feet–I love you still! Perhaps part of your allure is your difficulty. You aren’t easy.  But, you are worth all the trouble.

This is how you greeted me on my first day. My taxi driver couldn’t get to my hotel because your strikers were on the boulevard nearby.  I will give you this: your protest was civil and, I noticed in the 10 days I was with you, they never get started in earnest before late afternoon.  That is my kind of striking schedule.

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But, we can overlook the strikes. Let the beguiling begin:

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Your shop windows beguile. Ho hum, Russian dolls, but…look how many! Extreme!

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Your architecture thrills the eye:

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The Seine…what can I say?

 

 

I both love and hate le Musée du Louvre (especially after Friday, Jan. 17, 2020). Still, it is undeniably spectacular:

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Check out this living wall.  I’ve seen other living walls in other cities, but I mean, this one is extreme!

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Then, there is that little old department store called Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche, founded in 1838 and revamped almost completely by Aristide Boucicaut in 1852,  which was one of the first modern department stores. Now it is the property of LVMH and it sells a wide range of high-end goods, including food in the adjacent building at 38, rue de Sèvres, called La Grande Épicerie de Paris.  Other cities have magnificent department stores. You have this one in a grand, original building on the Left Bank.

 

 

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Again, the architecture…

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The street art…I love it!

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Graffiti, so joyful:

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Oh, la la Paris, je t’aime!

Au revoir, beautiful. Vous allez me manquer!

Rendez-vous au printemps! xoxoxoxo

Paris, day 10; Basilique du Sacré-Cœur

First, you gotta get there.  It requires a lot of climbing, no matter how you approach the famous hill.  It was almost a miracle that the Metro was working which got me to the area from my temporary home near Canal Saint Martin.  Great! But, you still gotta climb to get to the church. In the photo below, I am building my courage to begin:

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In the picture below, I’ve made it half-way up the stair. I look down to take pleasure in my accomplishment thus far, while I allow my heart to normalize.

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But, then I look at what’s left to climb.  Help me!

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But then, I mean…come on! It is so worth the hike!  Particularly on this splendid Saturday afternoon in mid-January!

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Below, just a quick glimpse of the interior.  More coming soon!

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Paris, Day 7, Place de la Bastille and Musee d’Orsay

Still without a working Metro in Paris, I started the day with a long stroll along the Canal St. Martin.

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and wound my way to the Place de la Bastille.

The Place de la Bastille is the square that stands where the Bastille prison stood until it was stormed in July of 1789.  The Bastille was entirely destroyed by 14 July 1790 and not one vestige of the prison remains. The confrontation between the commoners and the Ancien Régime set the stage for the French Revolution.

In the center of the Place stands the Colonne de Juillet, which commemorates the events of the July Revolution (1830).

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The Colonne de Juillet is the monumental column in Paris commemorating the Revolution of 1830. It stands in the center of the Place de la Bastille and celebrates the Trois Glorieuses — the “three glorious” days of 27–29 July 1830 that saw the fall of King Charles X of France and the commencement of the “July Monarchy” of Louis-Philippe, King of the French. It was built between 1835 and 1840.

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Photos coming later.  Internet at my Paris hotel is too slow to upload.

 

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