A short note on Pietrasanta and the artist Romano Cosci

Yesterday I had the chance to see the Carnevale parade in Pietrasanta.  I want to add a short note on the town itself.

IMG_5528

 

Above and below are picture of Pietrosanta’s duomo.  A service was ongoing when I stopped inside.  It is actually a pretty rare event that I find a service going on in the many churches I visit throughout this country. Who’d a thunk it?

It was nice to observe.  And, il duomo is quite wonderful, filled with interesting paintings and sculptures.

IMG_5529IMG_5530IMG_5531IMG_5532

As ever, the simple local bars serve cappuccino to die for.  Starbucks, eat your heart out.

IMG_5533

 

IMG_5525IMG_5526IMG_5527

 

The deconsecrated church of Sant’ Agostino today serves Pietrasanta and environs as a beautiful exhibition space for local artists.  I first had the pleasure of joining my dear friend, Grayce Murabito and her friend, the actor Eddie Albert (was in Roman Holiday), in viewing an exhibition there about 35 years ago.  I hadn’t been back until yesterday.  Somewhere I have photos of lovely Grayce standing in front of the sign advertising the exhibition of her husband’s works: the painter and sculptor, Rosario Murabito.

(The church itself is fascinating: Built in the 14th century, it was annexed to the convent and the ospedale dei Mercanti. The façade recalls architectural and sculptural decoration of the Cathedral of San Martino di Lucca. There are numerous tombstones on the floor and sections of fresco cycles from the 14th-15th centuries. The former church was deconsecrated before the mid 1980s, and has subsequently been used for temporary exhibitions, especially in the summer months. For information you can contact the “Russo” cultural center, in via sant’Agostino 1, call 0584.795500 or visit the website http://www.museodeibozzetti.it. See also www.comune.pietrasanta.lu.it and official page http://www.facebook.com/comunedi.pietrasanta?fref=ts )

IMG_5567

 

Romano Cosci, painter and sculptor, was born near Lucca in 1939. He was trained in the fifties in the stimulating atmosphere of the sculpture workshops and the art foundries of Pietrasanta (where he worked and lived) under the guidance of artists – prestigious artisans like Leonida Parma and Ferruccio Vezzoni and had as a teacher and friend Pietro Annigoni. Until 1986 he taught pictorial disciplines in the artistic high schools of Carrara and Grosseto. His work, with equal parts of talent and poetry, make use of an extraordinary range of expressive media, passing through fresco, marble, bronze, terracotta, mosaic and every other kind of 2-d design.  He died in 2014.

 

 

IMG_5552IMG_5553IMG_5554IMG_5555IMG_5556IMG_5557IMG_5558IMG_5559IMG_5560IMG_5561

fullsizeoutput_cac

IMG_5562IMG_5563IMG_5564IMG_5566

 

A couple other views of lovely Pietrasanta:

IMG_5568IMG_5569IMG_5551

Carnevale in Pietrasanta!

Think of Carnevale in Italy and you are sure to think first of Venice.  I know I do!

But the season is alive throughout the peninsula and the small ones have a charm that Venice, for all its glory, lacks.

IMG_5542

carnevale_pietrasantino(1)

Yesterday I had my first taste of a smaller, home-grown version of the Carnevale parade in the lovely little artsy town of Pietrasanta.  This small town is part of Versilia on the coast of northern Tuscany, about 20 miles north of Pisa and 15 miles south of Carrara. Only 2 miles from the coast, you can quickly reach the beach of Marina di Pietrasanta and the fashionable Forte dei Marmi.  But those two places are best reserved for a warmer time of year.

The Carnevale in Pietrasanta is composed of locals, young and old, and devoid of pretension.

IMG_5537

That’s what I liked most about it!

IMG_5539

Of course it didn’t hurt that it was a beautiful, almost spring-like day with cerulean skies and puffy white clouds.

IMG_5540

Now, here’s the thing: I don’t know what I was expecting, but the Pietrasanta parade was made up of about 6 major floats with companies of participants associated with each float.  The floats ranged in subject matter from the Moulin Rouge, to Dr. Spock, to Michael Jackson’s Killer.

 

IMG_5541

To me, it felt more like a Halloween parade than a celebration of a religious matter.

IMG_5542

But, it was unabashed, and I loved it for that.  It reminded me of my home town, way across the pond in the prairie states of the US.

IMG_5543

A fun time was had by all!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Inside Brunelleschi’s dome, Florence

Last month found me climbing the millions of steps to the top of the Florence cathedral dome.  Wow, what a hike and what an incredible view from the top!

One of the many treats of that worthwhile climb is the opportunity to see the Vasari frescoes of the Last Judgement, that adorns the interior of Brunelleschi’s magnificently engineered dome.  This post is dedicated to the Vasari paintings.

IMG_5002IMG_5003IMG_5004IMG_5005IMG_5006IMG_5007

IMG_5001

IMG_5008IMG_5009IMG_5010IMG_5011IMG_5012

fullsizeoutput_bfffullsizeoutput_bfefullsizeoutput_bfdfullsizeoutput_bfbfullsizeoutput_bfafullsizeoutput_bf9fullsizeoutput_bf8fullsizeoutput_bf7fullsizeoutput_bf5fullsizeoutput_bf3fullsizeoutput_bf2fullsizeoutput_bf0fullsizeoutput_befIMG_5137

IMG_5138IMG_5139IMG_5140IMG_5141

Trevi Fountain news

ROME – Most of the tourists who have tossed coins over their shoulder into Rome’s Trevi Fountain over the past 20 years probably did not know that they were helping the city’s poor. But the Rome city government has said no more.

d4e3ef1d53388c824939a483601a84eb_XL

Beginning April 1, the city said, the coins will no longer be delivered to the Rome diocesan Caritas for funding homeless shelters, soup kitchens and parish-based services to families in difficulty.

Instead, the city plans to use the money to help with the upkeep of monuments and to fund grants to “social projects,” which are yet to be defined. It also will hire workers to sort and count the coins, something that Caritas volunteers did for free.

In 2018, the international collection of coins added up to about 1.5 million euros or about $1.7 million.

Interviewed Jan. 12 by Vatican News, Father Benoni Ambarus, director of Caritas Rome, said, “The first thing I want to say is thank you to the millions of tourists who created a sea of solidarity with their coins.”

The priest was still hoping something would change before the change dried up in April. After all, the city council voted in October 2017 to start keeping the money in city coffers, but after a public outcry, the agreement with Caritas was extended to April 2018 and again to Dec. 31, 2018.

 

https://www.catholicregister.org/home/international/item/28763-rome-government-makes-a-wish-trevi-fountain-coins-will-no-longer-go-to-the-poor?fbclid=IwAR3yHYw2uL8vsnOFKSewOl3XMPQZNVIRNKfQx-DwNbbxo1X6AYrNZjk3g0Q

Il Duomo, Firenze: urban climbs

My birthday was last month and I marked it in a big way this year.  A fellow-January birthday girl and I got tickets to climb to the top of the Florence cathedral dome.  It is a bit of a hike.  You climb up more than 1200 steps, many very steep, and, even in January, the stairways are crowded.  It was worth every step!

You must be very careful on these stairways, some narrow, some steep, some filled with people going down while you are going up.  I was very, very careful, bc who wants to fall on a stairway from the roof of the duomo?

This post covers the exterior, a separate post is coming soon on the interior of the dome.

So, the first stopping place is the terrace level below the dome, as seen here:

img_4987img_4981img_4971img_4977

 

The views, even from this lesser level, are outstanding!  There’s the dome of San Lorenzo:

img_4979img_4980

 

Beguiling views of the baptistry:

cropped-img_4989.jpgimg_4990img_4989img_4988

So, as I said, I was extremely careful as I climbed up the duomo stairways.  And then, 2 days later, I missed a step on a small stairway in my apartment building, lost my balance and twisted my ankle.  And I’ve been laid up ever since!  I finally got an X-ray and nothing was broken, thank goodness, but the ligaments were torn, so we think.

Anyway, feeling sorry for myself with my foot elevated for several weeks, I haven’t felt like talking about the dome climb.  I am almost back to walking well by now, and this is my post to celebrate that fact!

img_4985

 

Above and below, shots of the January skies over Florence:

img_4984

 

Ahoy down there!

img_4983img_4982

 

Looking to San Lorenzo: when I’m high up above Florence I realize again how small this city really is!

img_4979

 

Looking toward Fiesole:

img_4980

 

Looking up and thinking: “can I climb that many more steps to get up there?” Not completely convinced.

IMG_4995IMG_4996

 

The quality of the sculptural details at this height was amazing to me.  The architects and sculptors could have been excused for skimping on details: I mean, how many people will ever see the work from close-up?

IMG_4997

But they skimped on nothing:

IMG_5031

IMG_5039

IMG_5032

IMG_5033

IMG_4998IMG_4999

 

So, okay, chicken, let’s keep climbing.  You made it this far.  So, up we go, and the climb got more severe:

IMG_5020IMG_5022

This sweet woman encouraged me every step of the way, which was a lot of steps!

 

 

IMG_5023

Above: Looking south, way across Florence, we see Forte Belvedere with its tower:

IMG_5024IMG_5025IMG_5027

 

Below: looking across Florence to San Minato al Monte:

IMG_5034

 

Looking over to the synagogue with the green dome:

IMG_5035

 

Looking towards Santa Croce:

OIMG_5036IMG_5037

In the middle ground, the Bargello and Badia:

IMG_5038IMG_5040IMG_5041fullsizeoutput_c4c

 

Looking toward the Mercato Centrale, with the green roof:

fullsizeoutput_c4b

 

San Lorenzo with train station in background:

fullsizeoutput_c4afullsizeoutput_c49

fullsizeoutput_c41

 

Looking way across town to the church of Santa Maria Novella:

fullsizeoutput_c40fullsizeoutput_c3f

Another shot of San Lorenzo with its entire complex shown:

fullsizeoutput_c3efullsizeoutput_c3dfullsizeoutput_c3cfullsizeoutput_c3b

Orsan Michele in foreground, Palazzo Pitti in front of forest (Boboli Gardens).

fullsizeoutput_c3afullsizeoutput_c32

Below: looking to Piazza della Repubblica:

fullsizeoutput_c2d

fullsizeoutput_c31fullsizeoutput_c30fullsizeoutput_c2ffullsizeoutput_c2e

 

Below: details inside the Giardino Boboli:

fullsizeoutput_c28fullsizeoutput_c26fullsizeoutput_c25

 

 

 

 

 

An Italian opera director turns a painted Renaissance masterpiece on its head…

And much, much more.

PARIS — You can’t always expect to understand the work of Romeo Castellucci. But you’re sure to be awed by its beauty.

Especially when the Italian director — really, a polymathic theatrical artist — stages opera. His productions are rich in symbols and enigmas; each movement leads to a picture-perfect tableau….Mr. Castellucci’s latest project, Scarlatti’s “Il Primo Omicidio” (“The First Homicide”), which continues at the Paris Opera’s Palais Garnier through Feb. 23, is…relatively direct, yet still striking.

“It’s a portrait of Cain,” Mr. Castellucci said of Scarlatti’s 1707 oratorio, an account of the Cain and Abel story, in an interview under the ornate chandeliers of the Garnier’s grand foyer. “But it’s really about innocence.”

The switch from adult singers to children happens the moment Cain murders Abel. “We are in the domain of childhood,” Mr. Castellucci said. “It is a childish mythology.”

A story of jealousy and murder, in his telling, becomes one of rediscovering lost innocence, of adults in search of their youthful doppelgängers….a journey abounding in imaginative stage magic — with layers of lighting and scrims, Mr. Castellucci conjures vast Rothko canvases that have the soft seamlessness of a James Turrell — reaches its end.

 

 

merlin_149656599_64935929-1d4b-4a84-86ea-bdcaa54bafa7-jumbo

The soprano Birgitte Christensen, center, as Eve.CreditJulien Mignot for The New York Times

For the scene in which Eve learns she will be a mother, Mr. Castellucci thought of the Annunciation — the angel Gabriel delivering the news to the Virgin Mary that she would give birth to Jesus. So he turned to “Annunciation With St. Margaret and St. Ansanus,” an Italian Gothic triptych by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi that now hangs in the Uffizi in Florence.

But he turned it upside down. As Eve sings of her coming motherhood, the massive altarpiece is lowered, slowly, above her head. “It’s a kind of guillotine,” Mr. Castellucci said. “A menace.”

 

The Venice Carnival, opening February 16, 2019

These are my pictures of the carnivale from 2017.  I can hardly believe that I never got around to posting them.  It was a wild, exuberant experience I will never forget.

Here’s everything you need to know about this year’s event: https://veniceevents.com/news-blogs/venice-carnival-2019-dates-and-events

And now, finally, 2 years late, my photos:

 

IMG_0342

I was in Venice in 2017 for the water parade. Amazing floats skimmed along the Rio di Cannaregio waterways. It was quite a spectacle.  I managed to get a bird’s eye view in the 2nd floor home of a perfect stranger, a delightful Venetian man and his wife!  All of these images were shot from their window.

IMG_0343IMG_0344

IMG_0348

IMG_0353IMG_0354IMG_0355

IMG_0357IMG_0358IMG_0359IMG_0360IMG_0361

IMG_0363

As I left, I got a couple of shots of the delightful Venetian man who shared his window with me and a woman from Russia who went with me to Venice.

 

IMG_0364IMG_0365

 

The Russian woman (we were classmates in Italian language school in Florence) wanted to buy an elaborate mask and she did!

IMG_0369IMG_0370IMG_0371IMG_0372

 

The wigs available in Venice at this time of year are astounding.

IMG_0374IMG_0375IMG_0376

 

And the costumes, oh my Lord!

IMG_0377IMG_0378IMG_0380IMG_0381IMG_0382IMG_0383

 

 

Santa Maria della Salute, possibly the world’s most beautiful church and location.

IMG_0385

IMG_0393IMG_0394IMG_0395

IMG_0396IMG_0397IMG_0398IMG_0406IMG_0407IMG_0408IMG_0409IMG_0410IMG_0414IMG_0415IMG_0416IMG_0417

IMG_0421IMG_0422IMG_0425IMG_0435

IMG_0438IMG_0439IMG_0440IMG_0441IMG_0442

IMG_0446IMG_0447IMG_0448IMG_0449IMG_0450IMG_0451IMG_0452IMG_0453IMG_0454IMG_0455IMG_0456IMG_0457IMG_0458IMG_0459IMG_0460IMG_0461IMG_0462IMG_0463IMG_0464IMG_0466IMG_0469IMG_0470IMG_0471IMG_0473IMG_0474IMG_0475IMG_0476

IMG_0478IMG_0479IMG_0480IMG_0481IMG_0482IMG_0483IMG_0484IMG_0485IMG_0486