Today in Florence: Oggi a Firenze

Happy Feast of San Lorenzo day!  August 10 is when Florence pays homage to the Saint named Lorenzo.  The festivities center around the Medici parish church of San Lorenzo and the adjoining piazza.  Also known as Cocomerata, which means watermelon, this fruit of summer is eaten “under the stars” of St. Lawrence.

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The Feast of San Lorenzo is an annual event deeply rooted in the city’s tradition. In the past, in fact, the “San Lorenzo Bakers Company” used to give holy bread – and watermelon in the evening – to everyone for free.

Today, this ancient tradition is still celebrated by giving lasagna and watermelon to everyone, both local residents and tourists alike, after a historical parade winds its way through the streets of the historical center. A band will play in the piazza tonight.

in medieval times, the public was treated to pieces of grilled steak and watermelon. Today it will lasagna and watermelon.

The Feast of Saint Lawrence and the free watermelon under the stars take advantage as well of this time of year, when shooting stars are more likely to be seen. They make wishes, and as the Perseid meteor shower crisscrosses the Italian sky.

The following info is from this great source, and tells us more: https://www.facebook.com/freyasflorence/?hc_ref=ARRkXgpNDRWjapZLHRHa6lI9aHzZGzD9jnQYFzpEG6PbFEqfGZX6blw3j_TrfTlUXps&fref=nf

La Notte di San Lorenzo, as it is known in Italy today, is a celebration dating back to Roman and Etruscan times, if not earlier. Catholics marked this day in remembrance of the martyr, believing the falling stars represent the tears of the saint and the embers of the fire that burned him, thus originating a saying “San Lorenzo dei martiri innocenti, casca dal ciel carboni ardenti” (Saint Lawrence of innocent martyrs, hot embers fall from the sky).

This shower of stars is caused by the particles of the Swift-Tuttle comet entering our atmosphere on the Earth’s annual orbit through its path, nevertheless, Italians don’t let science spoil this magical night. Millions still flock as far as necessary to have enough darkness to gaze at the sky. And under their breath utter “Stella, mia bella Stella, desidero che…” every time a falling star sparks across the sky, making a wish.

Who knew? Florence

Fennel has been the official herb of Florence for centuries. Dedicated to the patron saint of the city, John the Baptist, fennel was given to invalids for strength and to underweight people for extra poundage. Mixed with honey, fennel is guaranteed to cure bites from hungry mad dogs.

Fennel-Zefa-Fino

Source: Holler, Anne. Florencewalks: Four Intimate Walking Tours of Florence’s Most Historic and Enchanting Neighborhoods (Kindle Locations 250-252). Henry Holt and Co.. Kindle Edition.

How the Germans left Florence in August 1944

Firenze,  3 agosto 1944

All the bridges in Florence over the Arno, except for the Ponte Vecchio, were destroyed by Germans as the Allied Forces took Florence. While they didn’t destroy the Ponte Vecchio, they bombed the north and south ends of the bridge, destroying everything.

 

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Un ufficiale Inglese osserva i danni sul Ponte Vecchio.  An English officer observes the damages wrought by German forces as they were driven out of Florence.

È finita la guerra
La resa della Germania all’America, all’Inghilterra,alla Russia
Mostra il Corriere.

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What to read before coming to Florence

I love to read and I like both fiction and non-fiction.  When friends ask me what they might read to prepare for a visit to Florence, I always recommend R.W.B. Lewis, The City of Florence. It’s a passionate paean to the city, both scholarly and personal at the same time.

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The author, Lewis, who died in 2002, won the Pulitzer Prize for his biography of Edith Wharton.  You can be sure his book on Florence is a beautifully written tome. Highly recommended.

Piazza Beccaria, Firenze, and the former Alhambra Theater

Here’s an aerial photo of Florence’s Piazza Beccaria, taken sometime between 1945 and 1980.

The photo can be dated because on the left we see the home of the G.I.L. (Gioventù Italiana Littorioand, on the other side of the avenue, the Alhambra theater.  Both structures were demolished in order to build the Archivio di Stati, constructed in 1980.

 

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The Gioventù Italiana del Littorio (Italian Youth of the Lictor) was the consolidated youth movement of the National Fascist Party of Italy, established in 1937 to supervise and influence the minds of the young. The GIL was in particular established to counteract the influence of the Catholic church. You can read more about the organization and the building in Florence here:

https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Casa_della_Gioventù_Italiana_del_Littorio.

 

The Teatro Alhambra was built in 1889 and demolished in 1961. Here are a couple of vintage photos of the theater:

 

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Il famoso teatro, al suo posto ora c’è il palazzo del giornale La Nazione.

 

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And here’s a program from the Alhambra:

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ALHAMBRA. Programma. Lunedì 2 giugno 1890.

More on Alhambra theater here: http://www.chnt.at/wp-content/uploads/eBook_CHNT19_Bardi.pdf