A Neapolitan miscellany

Yowza! What views!

You can understand why Goethe exclaimed “see Naples and die” when he first visited in 1786. It is spectacular! The architects who’ve designed the city over the centuries also made good use of the spectacular vistas!

That’s Mt. Vesuvius in the background!

Wait a minute! What’s this I see? Tennis anyone? Right on the Bay of Naples and the marina!

And, be it ever so humble, this is the view from my place called home in Naples. I’m ideally situated between the wharves and the university district with a metro stop.

I visited Naples in early March, but flowers were in abundance. There were banks of blooming rosemary!

And, speaking of flora: growing up my parents had a rubber tree plant in our house. I remember it clearly because there was a popular Frank Sinatra song at the time about “High hopes” and an ant moving a rubber tree plant. The plant, Frank and the idea of high hopes inspired me!

But, check out the same plant growing in Naples!

There were all the usual Christian tabernacles on every street, in every Borgo. Maybe the ones in Naples have a special flavor…I’m still studying!

And you can never forget you are in Naples: it’s crusty as this post office drop box illustrates!

The Piazza del Plebiscito, Naples

This very grand piazza is among the largest in Italy and was planned by the King of Naples, Murat (Napoleon’s brother-in-law). He planned both the square and building as a tribute to the Napoleon.

Soon after Napoleon was finally dispatched to St Helena, the Bourbons were restored to the throne, and Ferdinand I continued the construction but converted the finished product into the church one sees today. He dedicated it to Saint Francis of Paola, who had lived in a monastery on this site in the 15th century.

Named after the plebiscite taken on October 21, 1860, that brought Naples into the unified Kingdom of Italy under the House of Savoy, the piazza is very close to the gulf of Naples, and bounded by the Royal Palace to the east and the church of San Francesco di Paola to the west, with its hallmark twin colonnades extending to each side.

The church is reminiscent of the Pantheon in Rome. The façade is fronted by a portico resting on six columns and two Ionic pillars. Inside, the church is circular with two side chapels. The dome is 53 metres high.

There are 2 equestrian monuments in the piazza, one of Charles III of Bourbon and his son Ferdinand I of the 2 Sicilies, both placed on marble bases (with no inscriptions!) facing the Royal Palace across the piazza.

Below: Ferdinand I

Across from the Plebiscito is the Palazzo Reale, which I recently posted about.

Gran Caffè Gambrinus and the incredible pastries of Naples!

Almost my first stop in Naples was this historic Caffè Gambrinus for a coffee and sfogliatella, pictured below.

Above, the famous sfogliatella, a delightful and rich shell-shaped pastry native to Campania. The name means “small, thin leaf,” and the pastry’s texture resembles stacked leaves.

The sfogliatella Santa Rosa was created in the monastery of Santa Rosa in Conca dei Marini in the province of Salerno, Italy, in the 17th century. Pasquale Pintauro, a pastry chef from Naples, acquired the original recipe and began selling the pastries in his shop in 1818.


The puff-pastry dough is stretched out on a large table, then brushed with butter, and rolled into a log. Disks are cut from the end, shaped to form pockets, and filled. The pastry is baked until the layers separate, forming the sfogliatella’s characteristic ridges.

Recipes for the dough and filling vary. Fillings include orange-flavored ricotta, almond paste, and candied peel of citron.

2nd day impressions of Naples

March 1, 2022. Rabbit, rabbit. I’m in Naples! I’m already enjoying good fortune!

Tomorrow I’ll take the ferry from Naples to Capri. Just locating the exit point: Molo (wharf) Beverello. My hotel is ideally situated between the wharves and a metro stop (Universita).

Above, looking in a bookstore window, there are lots and lots and lots of books written about Naples!

Random sign explains major archeological points of interest in this incredible area!

The putti above are so evocative of Naples. In Florence you find representations of young putti, well-formed and in shape and busy being productive. In Naples, it would seem, they are seed and relaxed!!

See Mt. Vesuvius, the only active volcano in Europe, lurking?

The photo above is the exterior of the Galleria Umberto I and the San Carlo theater is housed in the brown brick building to the left. I’ll be posting on both of those locales soon.

I soon found my way onto Via Toledo, which is much more upscale than the shopping streets I was on yesterday. Here the shops are much tonier!

Below: a sweet children’s clothing store called “milk and kisses”

I love the clothes in the Antica Sartoria (the old dressmaker). It’s a chain, there’s one in Florence.

I saw and felt this woman coming down the street and I tried to surreptitiously take her photo, but her eyes show you she’s on to me. Wow! What an outfit!

Next, I ducked into a modest church in this part of town, the Parrish of St. Mary of the Mercede. It’s history is outlined in a sign at the front entrance:

The interior is pretty splendid:

The ceiling fresco is impressive!

The high altar pays homage to Mary of Mercede:

One of the many side chapels has an interesting image of ? Mary? There were several similar 2 d images of a head shot and all of them were decorated with sparkling jewel-like things. The sparkles caught my eye.

Like San Francisco, Naples is built on hills. There are many flyovers like this one:

Love the heraldic angels in public architecture!